/ Recommended 6a to 6b problems in Fontainebleau (not slabs)

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teapot - on 26 Jan 2013
Also not classic Font sandbags

I am taking 6 students to Bleau this Easter. For 3 of them this is their second trip and for one this is his 3rd.

Over the years I have climbed a lot of problems in this range in the forest, but always as part of circuits and while many were fantastic have no idea of locations or names.

For most of the trip I get the lads to focus on getting loads of problems done as part of curcuits. However some of them managed to do a few low 6's last year (a few at Elephant, Le John Gill & Science Friction at Apremont and that classic rockover 6b at Cuvier, kind of opposite Cortomaltese.

But I have given it some thought this morning and can't think of any others to point them towards. They generally are better on overhanging rock with positive holds.

So any good suggestions? Like most of us they like achieving the next grade! With 4 days solid bouldering (wishful thinking), I don't want them having loads of goes on nasty vertical walls on small skin destroying holds and there is not a hope in hell of them getting up 6b Font slabs.

All recommendations much appreciated.
Morgan Woods - on 26 Jan 2013
In reply to teapot:

Toit du Loup at Elephant is a great overhanging 6b. Big moves on big holds.
JIMBO on 26 Jan 2013
In reply to teapot: Beurre marga at Isatis.... Used to get 6a... Enjoy ;-)
Sean Bell - on 26 Jan 2013
In reply to teapot: THis is good and steady at 6b, theres a 5+/6a next to it, all big juggy huds and monkeying around and its a nice area to be in.Top outs are a wee bit sketch but as the students have been to font before I guess they will be used to that.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=42963

teapot - on 26 Jan 2013
In reply to JIMBO:

Just checked out Beurre marga. I remember sandbagging 2 of my mates when it was still 6a. From Bleau info it gets 6b+ which makes more sense. I would be pretty impressed if one of my students got up this. Its pretty technical if I remember rightly. My mates were climbing low 7's and as far as I remember neither got up it that day. It was silly warm that day.

Might have another look with the lads. 6b+ would be a new trip record, which might motivate them to work it and I remember it is quite kind to the skin, unless its boiling and your hands are peeling off the top over and over again.
teapot - on 26 Jan 2013
In reply to teapot:

Jiu Jitsu looks like a good one.

Toit du Loup looks burly. I know elephant pretty well. Where abouts is it?

Both look like its the topouts that are tricky

teapot - on 26 Jan 2013
In reply to teapot:

More suggestions please

Any at Cuvier, Buthier, Canche aux Merciers or Rocher Canon?
JIMBO on 26 Jan 2013
In reply to teapot: I remember trying it with a very strong team one year and it took a couple hours for an ascent. Couldn't let a 6a beat us, the shame... Was a classic sandbag...
fried - on 26 Jan 2013
In reply to teapot:

I'll have a longer look later but this is on my tick list this year (again).

http://bleau.info/rond/1796.html
Stuart S - on 26 Jan 2013
In reply to teapot:

> Any at Cuvier, Buthier, Canche aux Merciers or Rocher Canon?

Le Bossu (red 16) at Rocher Canon gets 6b but I thought it was very soft when I did it.

Surplomb du Lepreux (black 20) at Elephant is 6a and worth a look.

Didn't do anything at 6a-6b at Canche aux Merciers that I'd particularly recommend, but Le Nez is a very safe lowball 6c to let your group have a play on.
Richard Hession on 26 Jan 2013
In reply to teapot:

Some I really enjoyed:

6bish
La fissure, 95.2
Swing medium, buthiers
Chouchou cheri, can he aux merciers
La mummery, Cuvier est
Travaux forces, gorge aux chats
Coup de sirocco gauche, gorge aux chats
La pornographe, JA Martin

6aish
La greve des nains, gorge aux chats
L'etrave, buthiers
Le cure dents, 91.1
La balafre, Apremont
La brioche, Cuvier (bit scary this one).
La Nescafé, Cuvier (could keep them busy for a while!)

is2 - on 26 Jan 2013
In reply to fried: One of the best 6a's in the forest.. Probably worth trying the rest of the red circuit at Bois Rond if you go there, lots of excellent 6's, not many of them 6c and some of the harder blocs are easier to work out than le Meilleur des Mondes.
JIMBO on 26 Jan 2013
In reply to teapot: I'd really recommend Bois Rond for 6s
Le Meilleur des Mondes 6a is a good example...
Fergal - on 26 Jan 2013
In reply to teapot:

For the beauty and wild sylvian setting moondance at cuisinier is a must for all seekers of that elusive 6a, nearby is the classic arete Tranche L'art 6b+ good landing and not to high.

Le Bourgoise 6a at Rocher Guichot is a little gem, flipper 6a+ at 91.1 epitomises bleau style, lots of compression with an exiting the swimming pool finish.

For a climbing wall style steep burly problem Boudha assis 6b at Isatis fits the bill.
teapot - on 26 Jan 2013
In reply to teapot:

Cheers all. Will definitely make a note of all those.

That safe burly 6c sounds like it will make a good group problem. We did something similar last year on Le John Gill, but required me to constantly spot as that foot jam is a little too secure.
Alun - on 27 Jan 2013
In reply to teapot:
> They generally are better on overhanging rock with positive holds.

You should be pointing them at the slabs then, hmmm? Learn a bit of technique? Shurely by now they have realised that grades mean nothing at Font, at least below 7a?

To answer your question:
Le Statique at Franchard Isatis (overhang slap-tastic, obvious hint: do it static for extra points)
Le Flipper at 91.1 (beautiful overhanging fin)
and La Marie Rose of course.
Alun - on 27 Jan 2013
In reply to JIMBO:

> I'd really recommend Bois Rond for 6s
> Le Meilleur des Mondes 6a is a good example...

I just looked at the photo of this and realised that I recognised it. Fantastic problem and very 'Font' (or 'Bleau') i.e. impossible at first, then easy once you've figured it out. Took me a while though!

I agree that Bois Rond is great for 6s.
teapot - on 27 Jan 2013
In reply to Alun:

Don't worry they will get loads of slab practise, but more 4's and 5's. We spend most days developing technique doing circuits.

But it is always motivating to tick a few higher grade problems.

Thanks for the recommendations on problems.
Bulls Crack - on 27 Jan 2013
In reply to teapot:

Over the years I have climbed a lot of problems in this range in the forest, but always as part of circuits and while many were fantastic have no idea of locations or names.

How did you manage that? were you led to the areas blindfolded? ;-)
Hamfunk - on 28 Jan 2013
In reply to teapot:
There are quite a few good problems in this range at 95.2 and a roof problem at 6c that is probably more like 6b+ if you are looking for a team project.

Soft 6c roof http://bleau.info/95.2/1548.html (Hint: Knee bar at the start then heel hook when going to the pocket!)

Also some classic polished font 4 slabs kicking about!
ads.ukclimbing.com
Alun - on 28 Jan 2013
In reply to Bulls Crack:
> How did you manage that? were you led to the areas blindfolded? ;-)

Quite easily - if you are doing a circuit then you will very rarely remember the name, number or exact location of any given problem at Fontainebleau, unless it is particularly memorable (as an example, see my comment above re. Meilleurs du monde at Bois Rond - I had no idea I had done it until I looked at the photo in the link).

Part of the magic of Fontainebleau is getting lost in the forest and exploring. Though I do agree with Teapot, sometimes the lure of a number can be motivational.

Incidently, I just googled what I called 'le statique' at Franchard Isatis and there appears to be some confusion regarding the name as there is 'le statique' 5+ and 'le surplomb statique' which I see now gets 6a+ http://bleau.info/isatis/3021.html . Originally I was referring to the latter, as it quite good for wall-trained climbers with good lock-off strength.
teapot - on 28 Jan 2013
In reply to Alun:

We climbed Surplomb le Statique last year, we I did about 5 times using different methods. It was on day 4 and my students were pretty knackered. 2 of them got close, but the finishing sloper was a bit warm and they kept failing. There is a handy boulder next to it with the perfect spot for taking a video. Got a great video of a Kiwi lad we met failing spectacularly to spot one of my students.
teapot - on 28 Jan 2013
In reply to Hamfunk:

That looks like it could fit the bill perfectly. The location description on bleau.info is pretty vague, although I guess it will be easy enough to find.

I remember another problem at 95.2 with a dynamic or figure of 4 solution. Think it might have been 6c+. I don't think I did either though.

teapot - on 28 Jan 2013
In reply to Bulls Crack:

I have spent about 6 months at Font over the last 12 years. On one trip I climbed circuits every other day for two months. I remember most of the areas visited, but I have undoubtedly forgotten some places.

I climbed tonnes of fantastic problems, but most of time had no idea where I was. Some of the circuits literally lead you for several km's through the forest. I would onsight most problems with no bouldering mat and just a rag tied via string to my waist. No need to return to the base of the last problem.

I once came across a brilliant problem in the woods between Cuvier and Cuvier Rempart. Not hard just a beautiful line with amazing moves. I tried to take mates there a few days later but couldn't find it. I have tried a few times since, but no joy. I have no idea of the name. And Cuvier is relatively small and easy to navigate.

Richard Hession on 28 Jan 2013
In reply to teapot: sounds like Cuvier est... have a gander on bleau.info?
Wilbur - on 28 Jan 2013
In reply to teapot:
> (In reply to Alun)
>
> We climbed Surplomb le Statique last year, we I did about 5 times using different methods. It was on day 4 and my students were pretty knackered. 2 of them got close, but the finishing sloper was a bit warm and they kept failing. There is a handy boulder next to it with the perfect spot for taking a video. Got a great video of a Kiwi lad we met failing spectacularly to spot one of my students.

I spent ages trying to do it and then realised the key (if you're a shortie) is pushing up off the right foot!

Wilbur - on 28 Jan 2013
By the way, worth having a look at a 6c called duel dans le lune at 95.2. Über classic and wall climber friendly!
Hamfunk - on 29 Jan 2013
In reply to Wilbur:

Thats the problem i recommended above.

Teapot, the dyno / fig of 4 problem is Le Yaniro Font 7a+ http://bleau.info/95.2/14.html

If you can find this, you go to the jumble behind and take a right, heading uphill through various boulders with orange circuit problems on them until you reach Retour aux Sources (http://bleau.info/95.2/5.html) Carry on through the trees on top of the ridge (100m or so) and you'll come to Duel dans la Lune.

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