/ UKC Fit Club 306
M-Working hard circuits, finished on repeaters on crimps. Press ups
T-Managed a run, slow/fast round a snowy field for 20min. Better than nothing.
W-Repeaters, diamond press ups, one arm training, slow frenchies. Great sesh
F-Completed a hard circuit at TCS, and made progress on another one. Repeaters on monos (two full sets!). Wide arm press ups. Ran home in army boots, in blizzard. Great to get a good run in.
S-Started one arm training this morning but instantly CBA, shame really, I don't know if I'm still tired for some reason or genuinely lazy.
Steady progress on PE, just waiting for opportunities to prove it!
Weight now 62-63.5kg.
-Eat enough good carbs to keep weight at ~63kg
-1 good OAP sesh every 4 days
-Work hard at repeaters and hard circuits
Dan, out of interest what exactly does a 'one arm training' session involve?
Thanks matt, thanks grubes and thanks anyone else who wants to be thanked :)
STG-back up to Font 7A's on grit (by end of january) (DONE)
MTG-few routes on my wishlist, long johns slab, archangel, the rasp. (by end of april)
LTG- consolidate E4, at least 10 (by the end of 2013)
Mon-routes up to f6c at the edge
1 hour of swimming
Tue-7 miles on the turbo trainer
couple of hours snowboarding
Wed-couple of hours unstructured bouldering at the works
2 hours skateboarding
Fri-2hours unstructured bouldering at the works
Sat-Routes at the foundry
Sun-7 miles on the turbo trainer
No outdoor climbing at all this week which is a shame as I was hoping to get some bouldering done but the weather and free time didn't align.
Felt strong during the bouldering sessions ticking almost all the new yellow circuit at the works.
pretty poor session at the foundry, I can piss the 6cs but make no progress on the 7as and its really demoralising. I'm definitely scared of falling so forced myself to climb until I fell (which if i'm honest wasn't giving 100%) and my belayer was giving me some big drops when lowering off, but i'm fairly happy with these.
Most climbers I know have a respectable sport grade and suffer on the trad and bouldering but I'm the opposite and I just can't see why. :(
Not climbing related at all but my other activities were brilliant this week. Swimming went well but managed to go snowboarding and skateboarding. Definitely going to try and skateboard more often again (on rest days).
> Dan, out of interest what exactly does a 'one arm training' session involve?
You can tell he's a military man. His reports are full of TLA's.
What are CBA's and OAP's ?
As predicted, a rubbish week, but atleast I haven't had many like this for ages now.
Snowdon Race - 1h 35m.
Edale Skyline - 4h.
Ben Nevis Race - 2h 20m.
Wasdale - get round.
Get out climbing again & regularly onsighting VS / HS.
Push trad grade.
Lead a tough E1.
M - 4.10m road run, 41ft.
T - working away.
W – working away.
T – working away.
F – working away.
S - nothing.
S - nothing.
Mon - rest
Tue - bouldering at MCC, good session. Found the new set pretty tough but I enjoyed having a fight on the easier graded problems. Best was flashing a soft techy V6, but had a hard time on some of the thuggy V4s! Felt stronger after though.
Wed - rest
Thurs - session on the wall at home. Totally reset my steep board, setting new problems for myself actuallt gets me really psyched which is probably a little sad but still a good session, working lots of fingery steep moves.
Fri - rest
Sat - session at Awesome Walls Stockport. Warmed up on two 6as and a 6b then onsighted an easy 7a+, and a hard 7b. The 7b was interesting because the crux hold span but luckily it was a pinch so I held on anyway... meant I had to dyno the next move though! Fell off high on a 7b+ then (typical AW grading) fell off lower down on a 7a on the same line. Finished with some easier routes.
Sun - woke up at 2 AM and couldn't sleep. Parents were out so I had a midnight bouldering session! Did about two hours, oddly good session, finishing off some set projects from thursday. Tired now though!
So a better week from me, good bouldering volume if anything for the rockover comp on Saturday - may I see some Fit Clubbers there?
Jake, it was me who was talking to you about the orange 7b and pink 7b+ on Saturday. That was a good effort flashing the 7b, it felt top of the grade for me, only just scraped up it.
STG (this winter through to March): tick at least 10 new Ft 7s, including at least one Ft 7b, before Font [so far: 4 Ft 7a, 1 Ft 7a+]
MTG: tick at least 5 Ft 7as in Font in March
LTG (March-Dec 2013):
- aim to onsight 10 E3s and 1 E4 in 2013. I've also updated my wishlist to reflect some of the routes I want to do if I get the opportunity.
Weekly training plan up to March involves:
- 2 wall sessions, focusing on bouldering with occasional ancap
- 3 fingerboard sessions
- 1 outside day
- 1 rest day
(minus a wall or fingerboard session when I manage two outside days)
M: Fingerboard session. Decent session, did a number of max hangs on the thin crimps on the beastmaker, then did some repeaters.
T: Bouldering at Alter Rock. Good session, did most of the new comp problems, about 4 remaining that I didn't do.
W: Fingerboard. Short session but quite good, did about about 70 chin-ups on different holds in 7-8 minutes then did some repeaters.
T: Bouldering at Alter Rock. Did another 2 of the new comp problems and spent quite a while trying another one. Felt quite good.
S: Bouldering (and lots of wading through snow) at the Churnet. Did a 6a and a 6b+ I hadn't done before, repeated a 6c and then spent quite a while trying a 7a+ called Humpty Dumpty. Its only about 2 hard moves long, I did the first a few times but couldnt quit get set up for the finishing reach to a jug. One to go back to in future. Toes went numb and lost psyche after that. Trek in and out was interesting as the car parks were all under 6 inches of snow so we had to walk in a weird long way round. Party in the evening; ate a lot of cake and drank a lot of wine and beer...
S: Birthday today - one year left of my 20s! Mostly just relaxed but walked a few miles around time and done a few sets of press-ups, sit-ups and chin-ups around the house.
Disappointing weekend outside performance again due to the temperatures although I did make some progress on Humpty Dumpty. Pleased with the training I got in this week though especially since work has been pretty tough still.
I thought it could have been you but I wasn't too sure, I just remembered you saying you spent a lot of time at AW. Good effort getting that pink anyway, it felt harder than most 7c's I've tried on real rock. You should go down to Chee Dale and try some of the 7c's there, from what I saw they wouldn't take you long - maybe Stone the Loach or Sturgeon in the Cupboard on the Embankment?
What did you think about Humpty Dumpty? I've been thinking of downgrading it for a while but then there are few people who say it's soft and some that say it's hard.
I've found it fine every time I've been at Gentleman's. I remember there being a bit of knack to holding the pebble-y holds.
Also thought about upgrading 50p problem as I thought it was nails - and it sees virtually no repeats.
I found it quite tough but I may not have been too well warmed-up and I'm far from well-travelled at 7a+. I haven't tried 50p problem but I know Neil found it tough when he did it.
Thanks for the suggestions. Yorkshire limestone is much closer for me than the Peak but hopefully I'll get there this year (as ever, weather permitting!)
Goal: 7c outdoors by April 2013.
Wed: routes indoors
Sat: routes indoors
On wednesday I ticked off the new 7b+ on my 3rd attempt (so 6 goes at it overall) then had a go at a 7b I've not done then ticked off a hard 7a. finished off with 1 set of climbing up & down on a 6c.
On sat I ticked off the two remaining 7b's I've not done and flashed a soft 7a. I've now climbed every route at AW graded 7a and above. This is mostly due to the fact that there are no 8a's up at the moment and I@ve done the 2 7cs. Leading ladder routes go up at the end of the week so until then I'll be repeating the hard routes I've done and didn't want to have to do again (because they were hard!)
I think I last touched real rock in early December, possibly November. So that sucks.
More of a volume week than hard routes - maybe 25 routes total. Only managed twice through the week & no bouldering. Tempered by wedding glutony.
Tues: Indoors local wall, climbed like I was a beginner. Rubbish!
Fri: Went to the wall at Hemel again, some interesting routes there, OS everything I tried, but didn'y try anything above 7a+.
This week: As aimed for last week, at least twice indoors, try for one bouldering.
Can't wait for the weather to improve! Kev.
Cheers for kicking off Matt. Thanks in advance for the stats grubes...
- Redpoint something hard indoors, and do aerocap laps at the end of each roped session to boost base fitness
- Push bouldering as hard as possible. Do some campus boarding too - 1-3-5 on small rungs and 1-4-6 on medium at TCA
- Try and do some vaguely systematic ancap work at Gloucester Wall
- Proper slopy pocket hang on a wall Beastmaker; maybe mono hang too?
- Rolling average weight/body fat - ?
<STG> - pre Ceuse/S France trip in May
- Until roughly my birthday, focus on hard moves. Either boulder problems (a non-p/e Fb7 in a route-relevant style - maybe Churnet/peak lime/Dartmoor/Snowdonia?) or bouldery routes (Global Solutions, maybe Black Snake Moan if it dries up, other short and punchy local contenders, maybe something on Portland?).
- Spend bulk of March/April working on power endurance redpoints (maybe incl bouldering Ames Low at p/e 7A+) plus onsighting (Portland maybe?) to get head in gear for trip
- Maybe get some pumpy E2/3 trad in if opportunity presents?
<MTG> - 2013
- Complete the 8a pyramid (currently completed 6/8 x 7b+, 3/4 x 7c, 1/2 x 7c+, 0/1 x 8a)
- Right Hand Man
- 7c/+ "holiday tick" (UK route away from home and/or foreign route)
- Some trad - 10x E3s, try some E4s?
- Onsight mainly on or as prep for trips (see priority below for reasoning) - more 7a+s, try to onsight/flash 7b
- Get in best shape possible for 2014 road trip - mainly this means going out as strong as possible since strength will inevitably fade over the trip
- Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations (eg Dreadnought, Big Groove, Dream/Liberator, Lubyanka, short-ish alpine rock of that sort of grade)
- E4 onsight
- 8a before 30
- 7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags (currently done 7a+ at: Rodellar, Geyikbayiri)
- Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
- E5 onsights
- 8a/+ redpoints
- 7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
- Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something
M: Failed to go to the wall - train faff, delays and so on. So did a fingerboard session instead. Despite being fattened from a beer and curry I managed to hang the little rails 3x10@+13kg. So being fat makes me pull harder - wtf?! Can't remember what else I did.
T: Night out in Bristol. Walking in the cold count? Thought not!
W: Fingerboard. Repeated the hangs from Monday, didn't add weight though, as I was trying other stuff too. Got to about 3x7-10@+5.5kg 3-finger open hand on the rails - thought I should mix it up especially since the slopy pocket and mono hangs will need a boost to my open hand strength, feeling way weak on them ATM.
T: TCA. The greens I was crushing last week might have been the easier end of the set! Repeated a bunch more, no more reds though, and got spanked by some of the hard greens - nails. Tried a 6C or something on the Mothership too and couldn't do it. Spent a while on their new woody, managed a problem which I think my mate thought was about 6C, which is good. Did some vague circuits too, fell off a bunch of stuff whilst slightly pumped so that's got to have been some sort of aero training. Also hit the campus board - 1-3-5.5 three times with dominant hand, weaker hand brought on elbow pain so stopped immediately.
F: Rest, I think.
S: Stretching and eccentrics.
S: Have done some eccentrics and will do some stretching later. Main event was a trip to the Warehouse. Did some warmups. Tried the 7c from the previous time. Led up to nearly half height. Dogged to the top, did the top move this time, felt ok straight off the rope but will be a nightmare on lead. Worked out clipping positions and managed a toprope link from about half height to the last move. Got on the leading ladder 7b (7a+ in reality I think), smashed it! 3rd go I think over 3 sessions. Might have a proper go on the (at least a full grade harder) 7b next door next time, or try the 7b+ perhaps. The 7c is a bit more vertical/slightly overhanging so suits me slightly better whereas the 7b has a powerful crux crossing a roof right up near the top (the 7a+ crosses the same roof but is way easier). Finished off by doing some laps with the pump still in my arms from the 7a+ - 6a, 6c, 6b, 6a. More next time perhaps.
So not a bad week. Progress on the fingerboard, one of the slightly harder warehouse routes ticked off, did some ok bouldering. Have kept on being vaguely dedicated (it's all relative!) with eccentrics and elbow has flared up less save on the campus board. so not bad. Getting outdoors would be nice though - bailed on joining Si at the Churnet, sounds like maybe a mixed blessing that. Hopefully next weekend!
Started strength training this week. I wanted to get bouldering this weekend but weather and family stuff haven't allowed it.
M - Travelling back from Morocco
T - Day in Gibraltar
W - Eating too much
T - 13.9% 66kg Weighted pullups session. Need to get pulley set up for 1 arm work.
2 sets of dumbell complexes
F - 13.8% 66kg Felt sore from yesterday.
1 set of repeaters. Got pulley set up so was a proper max ( for repeaters ) session. Tried middle monos but too hard/painful even with pulley assistance
2 sets of dumbell complexes
Core - 40 ab wheel rolls. Owch.
S - Hurting all over. Day off.
S - 14.3% 66kg Weighted pull ups session - better than 1st time.
Core - 40 ab roll
2 sets of dumbell complexes
Not a bad start to a new phase. I feel very out of shape strength wise so i am hoping to see some good gains.
Not sure what happened with body fat it was under 13% when i got back from Morocco. I am starting triathlon training this week so i am hoping to see some reductions.
This weeks targets:
Pull ups - x2
Complexes - X2
Core - x2
Climb - x1 - 7b in a day
2 bike session
A lot to fit in this week but no work on so i should manage it. Tri training will have totake a back seat to climbing if it gets in the way.
Been for a couple of long walks round where i will be moving. So much rock from roadside single pitch to long walk in 150-200m long stuff. Also found what could be a nice little training area for some circuits/traverses. Not sure what is/isn't developed yet.
Thanks Matt and Grubes.
M: Westway bouldering, flashed up to V3, working on a steep V5, made good progress.
W: WW bouldering. Worked V5 project and some other hard stuff, flashed more new problems up to about V3.
F: WW bouldering. Worked more on the V5 which is apparently nearer V6. Can do both halves now but not link.
S: Feeling a bit ill.
Not a bad week, got my full quota of bouldering in so happy about that. Fingers seem to be holding up, tho perhaps ought to do some ice therapy as a preventative measure. Would have liked to do some running or stretching but I've been simply a bit lazy.
Next week will be a bit of a washout as I have to return to the wilds of East Yorkshire to look after my mum. Hopefully will get a few bits and bats done, maybe a long (for me) run, but little climbing.
LTG(2013): Redpoint sport 7b, 1 e3, 1 e2 that plenty of people think is e3.
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Fat %: 12
Focus: Local Endurance(1/4)
Key weaknesses: Spotting sequences. Repertoire of moves. FoF.
Fri: Easy bouldereing @ Stockport
Sun: ARC(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V2,V2,V1). Repeaters.
Back after a long time being lazy.
Fitness has dropped a lot but not back to square 1 like I was worried about. Obsessive training starts today.
Plan for next week:
3*ARC sessions(tue, thur, sun).
2*4x4 session(tue, sun).
haha, good observation.
Can't be arsed
One arm pull up
Repeated? New ones not repeats... No idea why I typed that.
> Dan, out of interest what exactly does a 'one arm training' session involve?
Recently, I've followed this pattern for a few weeks:
5 sets: One 10 second negative (assisted with other hand I get more tired)
5 sets: Frenchies. Slow, weighted, wide grip. Just so I don't have anything left in the tank.
3 min between all sets with longer break at halfway.
Usually feels quite effective, but I can't speak with any credibility because I can't actually do a OAP :P
M - Fingerboard. Used Beastmaker App and tried the Ft5A routine. Even 5A felt nails. Managed 2 of the reps of 7. In each rep of 7 didn't do the 4th one and rested, didn't want to get injured.
T - WW. Easy bouldering, 15 probs around V1. 8 ish routes on the autobelay around 5-6b+ ish. 75 sit ups. 50 push ups. Felt a bit weak on the autobelay
T - 1xF5A rep on beastmaker. 1/2 Ft5B rep then had to do taxi duty for gf.
F - WW routes. Easy routes for warm up. 6c+ TR, one rest. 2x6c+ lead. Same routes, almost got it clean 2nd time. Attempted 6c+ / 7a, couldn't do one move. Couple of 6b+ / 6c lead also.
S - Ft6a+ circuit in circuit room. 6xFt6B circuit. Trying to get up to the Ft6C which is 2x the 6B. Got 1.5 ties round best. 100 sit us. 100 press ups.
Have bought a swiss ball for more sit ups. Happy that I'm so bad at the fingerboard as it should mean lots of gains to make.
Climbing going OK. Body fat still c17% but falling as I up the volume. By the time I get down to 12% ish should be crushing harder but (almost) doing 6c+ now anyway. Therefore hopefully a few more months training, a few more kg off and should be in among the 7s.
Now i feel a bit dim. Obvious once you say it OAP=one arm pull up. Doh !
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (305) thread:
AJM - Looks like a hard week. Good effort
Si dH - awesome session at the churnet
Jamming Dodger - manage to get the core session in?
Ali - Manage to get out despite the weather?
Eagle River - Glad things are working for you let me know if you fancy getting out at the weekend? keen for grit or maybe risk the lime if temperatures rise
Mattrm - keeping up with the insanity work out?
Kevster - sorted out your outdoors trip/s?
Daniel Heath - nice weight loss. good luck with the 1 armers
odd toast - glad the good habits are rubbing off. Keep them up
Sankey - Any progress on the walnut traverse?
Mr chewy - good effort on trying something hard and outside your comfort zone
deacondeacon - manage to get any snowballing in?
IainRUK - nice goal good luck with them
Exile - well done on the winter route.
porkpiegirl - if you feel you plateauing maybe reduce your work load and try and save some energy to focus on what you want to push most.
Joughton - are all you exams over for now? Hope they went well
NMN - how was the coaching?
DoctorU - Well done on the 6a's
Maria85 - did you manage to get to depot this week. Do any better? Don't worry about your foot work was bad you are recovering from a foot injury its to be expected.
Ian Bell - Well done on the black runs
Nomics4sale - Better week climbing? Nice one on the catalunya trip.
Ally Smith - Trying a new mixed grade 8 does not sound like rest to me.
Luke Owens - Well done on the 6C Flash. nice vid too
Jimmy kay - Hope you get to have an awesome font trip and a kaly trip
Biscuit - Really jealous of your morocco trip.
AllyBee - Hope you feel better
Kylieo - welcome
Seankenny - congrats on the big 40.
annak - wow cross country in Norway sounds hard. Good effort to getting out there.
STG (Mar 2013):
Possible short half term font trip
More than 1 7 in spain maybe a grade push
MTG (July 2013)
Climb harder than 7a in UK and abroad.
Lead E3 try onsight
LTG (End of 2013):
Top out the chief
Boulder 7A/V6 UK and try get one in Squamish.
Climb Great wall at squamish
This Weeks Goals:
Northumberland next weekend gonna try get my first 7 ... - Epic fail ended up in wales though :)
wall session - Fail weather and car issues
M: 7.4k walk to work in the snow. Too tired to climb
W: Not psyched for the wall. core session
T: Core Session
F: Core session
S: Drive to Porth ysgo. Warmed up on a 6A should of flashed it got it third go. complete failure on a 5+. Flashed another 5+. Tried a 7A could not pull on. Tried a 6B+ failed on the sit start. Weather came in gutted. Retreated to the hut.
S: Porth ysgo. did a 4+, Worked a 6B with no luck, Tried a 6A+ no luck. then tried a 7A (popcorn party) did some of the moves and the top out fun. Tried a 6C. Flashed a 6A then a 6B good times :) tried a 7A. Knackered come home.
Next Weeks goals:
Tick a 7a at the wall
Real rock assuming I get car fixed
Porth Ysgo was a last minute plan after the weather crapped out. What a great place. Can definitely recommend it. I got some filming done so will cut it together
Continuous - Shoulder / knee rehab / ankle strengthening
1 - Lose 1/2 stone (2 lbs loss)
2 - Improve finger strength (no progress)
3 - Improve footwork (went climbing)
STG - Climb 6b @ wall, 12st 8lbs TICK
MTG - Climb 6c @ wall, 12st 6lbs
LTG - Climb 7a & E1, 12st 4lbs
VLTG - Climb 8a & E5, maintain weight - 11st
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st
Weight - 12st 7lbs (2lbs loss)
M - Rest
T - 90 situps, planks and stretches
W - Rest
T - 60 situps, planks and stretches
F - S - Rest
S - 1hr bouldering
Lost a bit of weight. Back to the pre-christmas weight. Finally. So another 1/2 stone to get back to 12st. Then I'd like to get down to 11st, so that's 1st 7lbs to go. Didn't do much this week, just a bit of work at home. Got out bouldering (indoors) managed a few v2s and failed on a lot more.
The gym membership is seeming rather pointless as I've not managed to go there in the past few weeks. I'll have to try and hit the pool on rest days. The hope is to run on Tues, Thurs and Sat next week, climb on Weds and Sun. In fact that's what I mean to keep up for the next few weeks.
Beginning to look forward to the summer and getting out on rock. Got a hit list for the year and I'm hoping to get a decent amount of stuff done.
deacondeacon - I used to skate. Got on a board the other day and I could still ollie. Only ankle high tho. Vaguely tempted to start again. There's a couple of nice concrete bowls nearby.
I'd definitely recommend it as a rest day activity but it's not going to do much for your climbing. :)
We're a bit spoilt in Sheffield with three indoor parks although I always go to the same one.
grubes: no snowballing at all disappointingly.
Porth Ysgo is great isn't it? Although Popcorn Party has possibly the sharpest holds known to man. How did your skin hold up? It killed my tips quicker than grit stone. Good effort getting out!
Thankfully I summoned the motivation to train with my housemate before the day was out :)
Just did a good sesh:
Offset Pull ups. 3-5 reps, 5 sets
Diamond Press ups ~10 reps, ~6 sets
Weighted slow pull ups. 5 x 5
Narrowly escaped two rest days in a row. phew!
Diet slipped today, but still under 10 stone, so I won't let it get me down.
What's a core session for you?
I think core is my most neglected training area, I find it so dull!
Sorry to hear that Jam. Get well soon, assuming I read that correctly.
My tri club swim sessions begin with a half hour core session with various exercises. I hope to get back to them at some point in the future. Not sure when.
They really do make a difference to my overall shape. Easier when youve got someone to guide you through it I find.
Better week than last, been pretty happy playing in the snow! I hadn't made any goals last week as I was feeling so 'bleurgh' about everything, so maybe that means that it's one big TICK?!!?
M: Core session then biked to work in horrendous slush as I didn't dare to move the car and the train was cancelled... yuk.
Skiing by headlamp, 3 or 4 short runs of some reasonable powder, as long as you avoiding digging your tips into the bracken!! A few comedy moments...
T: Core session. Afternoon 'product testing & team building' with work skiing in the Dales. Fairly rubbish snow but lovely to be out in the sun, 2 hrs or so.
Night skiing again, less powder, more skinning.
W: Core & fingerboard. Orienteering, 45 mins. Good, though I lost a lot of time stupidly getting more than a little lost in a dark forest... oops.
T: Night mission on Mam Tor Gully... except my headlamp died at the base so I didn't climb it. Fail!
S: Skiing in the Dales, heavy wet snow but some good turns anyway. 3 hours ish mainly skinning.
S: 2 hr walk on Ilkley Moor. Tried to summon up enthusiasm for a run but it was so windy...
Really loved having some snow this week, amazing to get on the skis again. Back to a more normal snow-less week unfortunately, keen to hit the running hard again this week though. I really felt the 3 weeks off running at orienteering on Wed, very sluggish. Back to the climbing wall also, expecting to feel super weak as I've not been hitting the fingerboard anywhere near hard enough.
This week's goals:
2 x climbing wall
2 x bike to work
3 x short runs
1 longer run (10km)
3 x core, 2x fingerboard.
it can be quite boring. I do it in my living room so I will be watching some crap tv then the ads come on so I can't get anymore bored.
My core sessions normally go like this:
Plank 1 min
Straight into 30secs of dishes (start feeling sick).
Then some normal press ups to help my elbow. (set of 10)
press ups with legs should width apart (set of 10)
Sit up position 10 crunches
Flat back legs straight up to the air 10 crunches.
Now feeling a quite sick 5-10 normal sit ups then rest for 5 mins
Plank for 1 min then try and do 4x15 secs of plank with 1 part of my body off the ground pointing straight.
rest for 1 min
1 min of dishes.
rest for 30-1min
More split leg push ups.
Feel really ill and crawl back on to the sofa and rest.
A mate showed me a leg raise technique the over week at the depot that is a complete killer but hard to describe.
I have added that in.
I also try and hold front and half lever on my pull up bar. I think thats kingd of my goal with it. hold front level for 2-5 seconds(with good form) then go from there
If my elbow are good I tend to try and lock my arms at 90° and do leg raises.
Basically if I am on a rest day I found I can normally do a core session and not feel too bad for doing it.
Also stick on some music as it will help you to focus on something other than the burning sensation in your core.
My core session developed from a core session Tom Randell sent round fit club when he used to be in it. He sent us a copy for the article on page 52-53 of this edition of psyche http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Download.aspx?id=634 (Pdf) magazine. The article is called core madness.
STG (by summer): don’t get injured
Redpoint 7a indoors
Climb something in the V4-V6 circuit
Lose ½ stone
MTG (during summer): don’t get injured
Monday – meant to be climbing but too lazy. Did my shoulder exercises though.
Tuesday – Yesterday’s bouldering session, whole wall reset since last time. Got quite a few in the V2-V4 circuit and tried and completely failed one in V4-V6.
Wednesday – 4x4 routes. 6a, 6b, 6b+, 6c. The 6c was the one I nearly onsighted last week and I got it clean on the first rep so I was pleased. Thoroughly failed it after that though it is quite overhanging so I wasn’t overly surprised.
Friday – Redpoint session. Warmed up 5-6b including onsighting a new 6b. Got another of my 6cs from last week clean. Tried a 6c+ but there’s one dynamic/reachy move I can’t do. Too tired to do anymore.
Sunday – Bouldering. Tried a couple more in the V2-V4 circuit but none completed. Worked quite a few in V4-V6, including getting halfway up the one I couldn’t get off the ground on on Tuesday. Got on a V6-V8 for laughs, I was laughably rubbish! Quite pleased with the session in general though.
Great place we picked there as it was the only place in the country that had a reasonable forecast. Glad there was a group of us with a large mat each, those landings ...
Popcorn party was not too bad (it was sharp). Tips are a little pink and my flapper from two weeks ago reopened.
My skin was really dry anyway so I just lost a lot of dead skin.
Now back to route training
Thanks, might have a read
Thanks grubes and mattrm. Those core exercises would kill me off compeletly!
STG: V6 at BBUK, 7b at a wall.
MTG: 7as in a day or 7b in a few days in Spain in Feb; 7b in Spain in March
LTG: more E1s and look at E2 Summer 2013
Tues: BBUK new set upstairs. For the first time in a very long time I didn't get a V5 tick on a new set :0(
Wed: 10.7 mile trail run Pendle Hill, 660m ascent.
Thurs: routes Leeds wall. tried a 7a 4 times but kept sitting on the rope. No excuses for not pushing through as I had a top belayer, just wimped out.
Sat: Routes Stockport. Flashed a 7a+!!! Woop woop!! Soft, of course, but you gives a f*ck? Tried a soft 7a 3 or 4 times after but didn't get it. Flashed a 6c and finished on up and down and fell off on the down.
Sun: 8.2 mile trail run up Heron Pike and Rydal valley from Ambleside, 700m ascent. Was going to do the Fairfield Horseshoe but I didn't fancy battling my way through the wind high up.
Really chuffed with the 7a+ (ok, more like soft 7a) flash at Stockport but need to sort out the sitting on the rope/yelling take thing which was holding me back at Leeds on Thursday.
M: Static Bike 7.5 km
T: Static Bike 8 km
W: Matrix, Few new 6b's and a 6b+ I tried last week
T: Static Bike 8 km
S: Winter Walk 12 miles through deep soft snow, slightly flared up knee injury
S: Climbing Works: Stamina board, 6b dropped right at the end, worked the 6c+/7a + Did some black and yellow problems on the circuits
STG: V4 ish boudlering e.g. Walnut Traverse at Birchen -WORKING / Crucifix traverse at Almscliff
2 problems I couldn't quite do last winter, so good benchmarks
MTG: RP 6c in Turkey Feb 5th onwards / French 7a boulder traverse equivalent at churnet
LTG: 7a Sport RP
I've had a bit of a lull in motivation over the last couple of weeks due to various things, but at the weekend I feel like I got my mojo back.
Weaknesses / things to train:
climbing: endurance on overhangs, open-hand strength, fear of falling
general: increase running and cycling distances, work on core stability, add a bit more upper-body strength training to stabilise crappy shoulder
M: Last day of cross-country skiing: 25km
Tu: Rest day
W: Bouldering @ Biscuit Factory; managed some grey routes, but couldn't finish any blues. Cycle 10 miles.
Th: Run 4.1 miles / 36:33
F: Bouldering @ Mile End. Got up a bunch of V2s, including a fantastic layback problem, left buzzing. Cycle 6 miles.
Sa: Rest day, went for a long walk.
Su: Cycled 24miles along the canal, got completely covered in mud, great fun.
Cheers Grubes, glad you liked the video.
T: Indoor Bouldering Comp, managed 15 problems, 12 Easy/Medium flashed, 3 "hard" problems done after 3 goes, didn't managed the other 5 Hard/Nails ones. Managed to tick two V4/5's at the end of the session too.
T: Weighted Max Hangs, 11.5kg added weight, 3 x 10 sec main sets - felt hard possibly didn't warm up properly.
F: Shoulder Stability Weights, Built 3 gaint snowmen...
S: Weights, Biceps, Triceps, Shoulders.
S: Nesscliffe, got on a V5 and V6 that I haven't tried in months both of which still feel nails despite being able to get slightly closer on both to do "the" move on each. Managed to get through the crux on a V5 traverse only to pump out on an easier bit at the end of the session. One to go back for as soon as possible.
Need to stop yo-yo-ing my attemps when i'm out bouldering, need to rest more between attempts (Note to self: take a watch!)
:( Hope you're ok. Norovirus? 7lbs in a week isn't healthy. It's odd, I've heard loads of people say last week sucked. It sucked for me also.
deacondeacon - There's not many decent ones in South Wales sadly. It's tempting, not sure the wife would be enamoured.
Dan H - That core workout looks brutal. I'll give it a whirl.
grubes - Nah I kinda ditched insanity after it killed my shoulder last week. I think the running, climbing and dieting will be enough for me.
> Need to stop yo-yo-ing my attemps when i'm out bouldering, need to rest more between attempts (Note to self: take a watch!)
I am useless at resting. Advice a mate gave me is take your shoes off, go for a walk, have a drink and breath.
Do not set off until your breath is back to a normal rate.
just taking your shoes off and putting them back on can waste a couple of minutes and forces you to think of something else for a second.
Yeah, I used to rest more in the summer. I think with it being cold and only having limited time out on rock this time of year I get too psyched for my own good.
I think taking a watch and timing rests should stop me being stupid!
Tom R specifies 80% intense exercises and 20% intense. 150-200 reps per session 3-4 times a week.
Using his info i came up with this:
Crunches ( legs vertical in the air ) 20 reps
Dishes ( rocking arms and legs ) 30secs
Dishes static 1min
Ab wheel 20 reps
Lower levers 20 reps - i lie on the ground with legs in the air and lower them down as slow as i can. I usually have my arms above my head and holding underneath the settee as lightly as i can.
V up 20 reps This is legs in the air again and reach up and touch your toes
I then make it a bit harder such as plank on gym ball or 1 legged. AB wheel down a slope, weights held on chest etc.
Doesn't take long if you blast through it.
VIII really shouldn't feel hard because you're holding on to jug handle tools and should feel like aero-cap (in my mind at least). It's just i can't get enough weight through my left foot due to fecked ankle-ness.
Good news: I've been refferred to an orthopaedic surgeon for my ankle - consultation should be Easter time.
Bad news: I've strained my ring finger flexor tendon in my right hand. Not much going on this week.
LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham
MTG (Spring 2013) - Melanchollie at LPT & be fit for Terredets at Easter.
STG (end Jan 2013)
- Re-hab finger injury.
- Lots of elbow eccentrics - Zottman curls proving good combination exercise
- Sort out shoulder instability - getting a bit rounded shouldered.
- Yoga and core sessions
- Get back below 75kg (Currently 76.7kg and 6.9% BF)
M - Warm-up; Campus board an-cap 6x18 moves, then tried an "easy" circuit on 45. RHand ring finger failure 2 moves in. Home and ice and self-loathing :-(
T - Gym - elbow/ankle rehab and weights and dynamic core.
W - Nowt
T - Gym - elbow/ankle rehab and weights and static core.
F - Nowt
S - Nowt - starting to feel a bit grotty - overnight high temp
S - Testing finger at AWL. Working one-armer strength on Beastmaker (or lack of it) then easy routes (6b-7a) in super-static finger friendly style.
> Tom R specifies 150-200 reps per session 3-4 times a week.
Coach Randall's core plan for me looked a lot more intense than your interpretation! Here's an example...
Static Core x 3 p/w
Low dish 4x1min
High dish 4x1min
Dynamic core x 3 p/w
Dish tucks 4 x 35
Crunchies 2 x 100
Side crunchies 3 x 20
Suspended core x 1 p/w
L - raises 4 x 5
Tuck ups 6 x 10
It looks hard - however those having the discussion are not quite hoping to RP unjustified this year so that may be the difference ;0) I was just using what Tom put in Psyched and then a couple of e mails between us. It wasn't a 1to1 or personal coaching.
Hope the finger gets better soon.
Have you seen this for rounded shoulders ?
Also if it's shoulder instability do you know the YLTW workout - just google it and you'll find lots of you tube vids etc.
Thanks grubes - good to keep ticking away.
Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Winter VI 6
Goals for this Spring:
RP - 7a+ / 7b
HP - E6
Winter - VI 7
Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.
T: 50min road run. 2hrs climbing wall bouldering for power
W: 20min core
Still ill - just need to let it run it's course.
That, in a nutshell, probably sums up why my core isn't that strong...
Just having a really really rough time. Anyway, hardly the time or the place. Just keeping my nose in right now so I dont get shouted at next week for my absence. I'll be back on the wagon soon enough. I need to be.
Have a good week everybody.
Very bad week for me generally - poor sleeping and emotional/work overload at beginning of the week left me pretty much drained and limped through the rest of the week. Still this week can't be worse!
W - Biscuit Factory - only had 1hr20min as had to get home to carry on working, so did the full Tiger circuit (30 x v1-3), tried a couple of greens rather non-commitedly and did a couple of laps of the 6a circuit.
S - BMF (British military fitness for the TLA adverse!) - went into the red group this time which was probably the right level. Press up muscles still moaning from 2 weeks ago, but did circuit mainly comprising short runs (some up hills), burpees, pressups, squats, situps. Tried quite hard but felt rather wasted
S - Castle bouldering - only the second time I've ventured north but was quite a fun session. Got 4 v4s but didn't manage much else - felt kind of spaced out and not quite with it! Went to bed at 9.30 :-)
Aim this week is to try and reduce working hours/stress and get more sleep. And try and fit in a climbing and BMF session.
That's what the scales say. Whether it's a real number doesn't matter. It just gives me something to monitor any trends. Right now i've still got obvious body fat on my arse and stomach so i'm sure i could get it lower still!
6.9% is considered an "Athletic" Body Fat Percentage.
m: 3 mile road run before US flight
t: am: 8 mile trail run. 8 mile treadmill, 1,2,3,4,5,3,2,1 efforts at marathon pace with matched recoveries 1 min off that pace, warm up cool down
w: 14 mile trail run.
t: am: 6 mile tread mill. 7 mile track session, with 5 x 1k reps.
f: 10 mile road run
s: am: 4 miles steady. pm: 12 miles at 6:40 pace flat road.
s: 15.5 mile trail and road run undulating, all at 6:30-7:00 ish pace
Thanks Grubes - feeling a lot better now :)
Had a slightly better week this week too - I managed three climbing-related things, and would have done more if it hadn't been for a snow-related disaster on Monday. Next week, I'm going to try to add in one more wall session, then try to keep that level going until work and van deadlines have passed (both middle of March), when I'll have a bit more free time.
STGs (next couple of months):
1) Get braver:
Do at least two roped wall sessions a week, and at each one take at least five lead falls from above the bolt. Also try just letting go after clipping the anchor, instead of waiting for the rope to go tight.
2) Get stronger:
Pull-up sets twice a week on the large holds on the fingerboard. Work up to being able to do three unassisted pull ups in a row (I can currently do almost one...)
3) Get fitter:
Climbing fitness: at least two wall sessions a week (as above), and do some aerobic training on the fingerboard (20-30 mins feet-on hanging, moving hands between holds, in front of TV)
General fitness: sign up for a lunchtime exercise class at the University gym. It's right next to my building so there's no excuse!
MTG (start of spring, when the weather gets better):
Go to Portland and try to onsight as many 6a's and 6a+'s as I can...
LTG (by January 2014, when we leave for our road trip)
1) I'd like to be at a level where I can onsight 6b consistently, 6b+ with some effort and 6c on a good day when I'm trying really hard.
2) 7a redpoint
M: Nothing (had planned to go to the wall but got stuck for ages on a train in the snow)
W: Aerobic training on fingerboard: Feet on, moving hands around between holds for 27 mins (because that was the length of the sitcom episode I put on to relieve the boredom).
Th: Nothing (had planned to go to the wall but then had to work late)
F: Aerobic training on fingerboard: Same as Wednesday, but I devised a repeating hand sequence moving between the big beastmaker pockets and the campus rung we have rigged up below it, rather than just moving my hands randomly. Hopefully this should make it easier to gauge progress.
S: Nothing (vanned all day)
S: Warehouse session: did 10 small falls (bolt just above waist), led a handful of 5+'s and 6a's with varying degrees of success, and messed about trying to toprope a 6c. First roped session in a while and the falling felt horrible - just can't get used to the idea of dropping onto slack rope without looking down and grabbing my knot first...
Just been out for my first triathlon training. 25 mins on the bike ( kind of forgot i live in a really hilly place and at the top of a 150m hill ) first time on a bike in 4/5 years. Back home quick change and out for a 20 min run. Not so much a run more a wobble on legs that didn't seem able to lift up off the ground. Hilarious.
Swimming tomorrow. That will be even worse.
I did a fair bit round that sort of grade in Turkey - my picks that I can think of would be Saxafon at 6b+ (if you get shut down by the one to its right dont feel bad Ally and i almost did too - it's probably 6c+ in reality. The 6c one right again also looks good) and Colonist if you're going well and can stretch to 6c+, excellent tufa. The one right of Colonist is apparently about 7a+ not the same grade so be warned! I commented on most of the stuff I did in my log.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Congrats on the 7a+!
Just finally redpointed the 8a at MCC, I'm mega psyched!! Didn't think it would go so soon, after getting shut down on it last week, only being able to do the crux in isolation on a toprope. Knew the moment I held the crux I was going to top it though, great to feel the rewards of the boudering/P.E work I've been doing to get through the lower section. Haven't put long term effort into a project for a while now so it's getting me psyched for a real 8a now.
It was only the first one so it can only get better - i hope.
I don't even really want to do it, it's a favour for a friend i am doing it with.
Nice one Jake, get to it outside, once the rain stops...
s -22nd jan - interval training on bike.. stepped things up and focussing on watts, knackered afterwards. then routes at the wall 6 routes ranging from 6b to 7a+... dogging... (not committing enough to harder moves.. just lack of doing routes i think) laps up 7a, 6c, 6a, and then rainbowing for two more laps
m- gym- interval training on bike.. still getting to grips with slight change to training programme. core, weights.. all muscle groups, lots of wide grip and narrow grip pull ups (4x20 reps wide alternated with squats on smith machine, 3x15-20 reps narrow alternated with triceps excercise)
t- interval training on bike.. ouch and core. bouldering for a couple of hours. worked the v7 and linked the two moves i've been struggling with abotu three times, then more work on steeper problems at v5.. repeating. 30 mings laps on top rope.. struggled up the 7a, down climbed the 6a then up a tufa orientated 6c picnh strength crap) .. down climbing 6a then rainbowing for another two laps with down climbs on the 6a
w- cross trainer in gym for an hour- working at about 80% throughout and core. boudering at wall for a couple fo hours, no improvement on yesterday's effort
t- gym- int training on bike.. tough again, needed tem mins rest aftrewards and a diet coke for a boost before weights... core.. then weights.. all muscle groups..felt strong on pull ups..but wrists a tad sore on narrow grip pull ups and left elbow clicks all the time
f- interval training on bike.. couldn't resist that new method of training again.. feel like taking to mt bed and sleeping for the rest of teh days afterwards...boudlering for a couple of hours... progress on the V7 linked all the moves to the third to last move.. skin very sore though.. lots of work on steep v5s to try and build power on steeper stuff... tried v6 fingering problems that i manged three weeks ago and had nohting left in the tank
s- same as friday... skin very sore.. felt flat
s 27th jan -tried to take a rest day but felt quite energetic so did the bike interval training and did well on it.. pace increasing and pushing through greater resistence, expected a rubbish session boulderingas left elbow, ring finger and shoulder a tad sore, but climbed well.. an hour on the v7, did the secod to last move which i haven't bene able to do, tried soem open handed probelms a v5 and did well for me, repeated steep v5 problems.. felt stronger.. used climb on to help my skin the night before so think that helped
monday- 28th REST DAY!!! - but i confess that I drove to gym/ wall on the way back from work but turned the car around and went home as knew i was pushing my luck :o)
> Congrats on the 7a+!
you've been looking at your arse in the mirror haven't you? i thought only teenage lasses did that!!!??? isn't what you think is fat actually just skin? you need skin to hold your insides in
another mega week, I'm tired just reading that!!
What do you think would happen if you did nothing for a whole week?
Nice one Jake.
If you ever need a belay / lift to Malham or kilnsey (when they dry out) give me a Shout. I'll be there as regularly as possible this year.
Ok week, weekend scuppered by it being my birthday though, so cake was priority :p
T:Routes at Hgt, still leading around 5+ with only occasional 6a. Did lots of belaying including taking some big catches from someone much heavier than me which massively improved my confidence.
T:Bouldering, got my first 2 blacks of the latest reset (couldnt get any last week so was pleased) and got smoother on the yellows. Still frustrated that I can't get my body positioning right to make big reaches, even when someone trys to show me how, but hopefully it will click at some point.
"Ran" to wall and back (alternating running with walking rests cos still can't run properly yet) which enjoyed so will do more often.
F-S: Birthday weekend, did little, ate lots, which will probably push me back above my pre-christmas weight that I had just got back to oops.
Have a good week y'all :)
M- Snow day. 4hour session at the wall. Ticked off a few hard problems.
W- 2hour session. Lapped a v7 5times and all the new problems on the board. Some really good new hard stuff up at the moment.
T- 2hour session. Ticked a load of the new hard yellow problems that are up (v6-9) Couple left to go. Did some fingerboarding. Isolated front and back true and going to train these over the next few weeks.
S- Sat around at a course drinking tea all day.
S- Orienteering at Lickey Hills as part of my DoE Outdoor Leader course.
I'm meant to go to the wall this evening, but I'm feeling truly awful. So I might end up just drinking tea.
It's my 25th bday on Saturday. Would like to have climbed F8a before my 26th.
> Nice one Jake.
> If you ever need a belay / lift to Malham or kilnsey (when they dry out) give me a Shout. I'll be there as regularly as possible this year.
Macleod reckons indoor 8a equals outdoor 8c for him; you should crush Raindogs in quicktime and move onto something more challenging!
I'm also keen for Malham and Kilnsey partners for this year - stay in touch.
All the variables are finally coinciding for me:
Going on an adventure for the rest of the week, so psyched!
Cheers grubes and matt.
Mon - Climbing. Very Tired but tried a 6b+ on a top rope and learnt that I can rockover way farther than I'd ever imagined.
Tue - Nowt
Wed - Managed 4 pullups! Maybe the most ever.
Thu - Nowt. Again work related.
Fri - Exhibition work in Holland
Sat - Ditto
Sun - Ditto
Too much working, bad diet, no rest and trying to exercise came home to roost this week. Just been to the physio tonight and I've stuffed up my medial ligament in my left knee. It's been torn before and is loose anyway but drop knees on the roof, squats and finally the exhibition work did for me. There's no hiding when on build-up and by Sunday I was in agony when walking.
On a positive note - weakness in my fingers and arms is definitely holding my climbing back, so if all I can do is work on them, then I should make good gains when the knee is working again. No more roof for me in general tho. Insert sad face as there's nothing more satisfying as holding a drop knee move on the roof.
Some ace stuff above people, good to hear it.
Nice and sunny over here at the minute ;0)
I haven't got the other variables though :0(
Where you off ?
Thanks for the offer, I'd be psyched to get up there, some of the long steep stuff at Kilnsey looks awesome when dry. I'd really like to do Comedy and Dominatrix, both of which would probably suit you too.
Let me know if you're ever planning on a Yorkshire trip and we'll arrange something, a lift would be massively appreciated.
I've never even redpointed 7c+ so going straight to Raindogs would be quite a big step up, I'd be pleased if I could get it in a season! Have you been on Raindogs?
Unfortunately being 16 (nearly 17 now!) means I'm immobile so I'll normally need a lift or public transport to crags, which doesn't make me the easiest partner, but if you're based anywhere around the Manchester area it's likely we could sort something out, let me know if you're keen.
Macleod says that his hands sweat lots indoor, limiting his grade. Also, being able to apply a greater technique element to outdoor climbing also increases his grade. He's blog'd about this recently:
My personal experience from training for a trip to Spain last year would be that redpointing 7c+ indoors (Awesome Walls Liverpool steepness) translated to doing 8a and 8a+ in a session or two on real rock. I can't comment on MCC grades.
I did Raindogs 6(?) years ago and belayed people on it last year. There are lots of beta options, but it definitely a route that will respond to well executed, "polished" technique.
I'm Chester based, but my office will be moving to nearby Manchester Airport later this year, so i hope to be getting out on Yorkshire lime an increasing amount after work rather than heading for LPT/Diamond.
I don't know... I don't think so... what do you look like?
interesting link ...
i'm rubbish at climbing routes indoors, at the moment i'm dogging 6c+ and 7a's, reach is often a problem with little option for being as creative with footwork.. the smearing where i climb is terrible..well slippy,hands also sweat far too much.. i boulder v5 to v6 consistently and am close to completing v7... (but the routes are being changed tonight .. i was two moves off completing thye v7 i've been working on last night .. grrr) .. last winter i was struggling on some 6b+s indoors but bouldering french 7a (not font 7a)but red pointed 7b. i would be stupid enough to invest time on working something quite a bit harder than 7b this season... because i haven't anything to lose.. it will just mean lots of pain and failure for months on end!!!
i get down about my performance on indoor routes but try not to let it put me off pushing myself outdoors..i am relieved to see i'm not the only one that's crap indoors!!
i think eagle river (having seen him climb) will mamage raindogs no problem.
I am much worse inside than outside as well, i think it's quite common.
anyone got any top tips for one of the sections on rain dogs .. about three quarters of the way up where there's a hold that requires you to use one finger or your thumb (on the left) ... i couldn't do it...
also does the second bolt have potential ground fall? do most people pre clip the rope in the the first and the second? just watching it the other day on utube... bloke climbing it had clipped the first and second bolt first.. watched other climbers doing it in utube but couldn't see what they did.
what would be the best wat of going about getting string enough to do it? lots of bouldering to increase power and then power endurance cicuit stuff... if so what sort of grade?
No individual move is harder than v2/3 i'd say, but there'a an awful lot of them! I certainly don't remember anything about a 1-finger or thumb hold. If you've got indoor v6 strength (?) then you might already be string enough for it? Working some an-cap and power enurance could be a the best use of your training time rather than getting stronger?
How about doing some boulder 4x4s on problems that replicate the sidepulls and poor footholds found on Raindogs? Maybe 4x4 on v4's to start?
I can attest to the fact that you do hit the catwalk falling off whilst clipping the 2nd bolt. It wasn't my 1st 8a and i had no qualms about having the 2nd bolt pre-clipped, but it does remove a clip and arguably makes it an easier proposition.
You down on Portland all weekend Ali? Is that with Nick/Hazel? Trying to work out where best to put my "hard moves" plan into action.
Day in the peak, at Brean or on Portland currently topping my chart...
I think the saturday forecast is good for peak crushing at the moment...
Got plans yet? Sunny, south facing and sheltered...?
Think I am off to froggatt to scare myself again on saturday ...
what's 4x4? i'm quite new to more structured training
my experience of it - I spent a season at Malham, did the 7a's, 7th Aardvark, Space Race & Chiselling The Dragon and got quite into the distinctive malham style (very technical with undercuts and sidepulls, shit polished feet) - had a couple of days on Raindogs and got as far as doing it in 2.
I personally thought it felt like doing a string of V4 boulder problems in a row with no rest and no easy moves (so I probably agree with Ally that each move is a one-move V2 or V3)
In my opinion the key thing is being familiar enough with the malham style that you can move quickly and confidently on that sort of terrain. Training wise, I was doing a lot of 20 - 30 move circuits at the wall really focussed on posterior chain core ie. delivering power through your toes - eg. all set on undercuts and sidepulls with rubbish feet, and I spent some time training bicep curls for those undercuts.
I went back about a year later and got utterly spanked on it, struggling to string more than a couple of moves together, I hadn't done any training for it but mostly I think because I was hesitating too much on each of the moves.
I would say training wise, stringing together lots of hard boulder problems into a circuit would be the way, the style is almost nothing at all like modern indoor comp style problems (at least not at the walls I go to) so in order to be specific you would need to specifically design something to be very core-y with no jugs and very few holds pointing downward. Nothing will beat mileage actually at malham. Personally I have written off doing it for the forseeable future as it's not something I'm going to be able to tick off in the odd weekend up there, I'd need to be climbing at malham for like 10 or 15 days over a couple of months. It's an awesome route, good luck.
Where is this rubbish hold you speak of? def. don't remember using anything that sounded like that. I have a sequence written down that I can send to you if you like but it's probably quite height specific so may not work for you.
Oh and I fully intended to do it with the first two clipped, if you came off while clipping the 2nd you'd totally be on the catwalk.
Thanks Nick; nice summary. Reminds me that i'll need to serve a repeat apprenticeship at Malham this spring before having a chance on Unjustified.
In reply to pork pie girl:
Like Nick said, setting a circuit that links Malham style problems on sidepulls/undercuts would be one option.
A 4x4 (in a bouldering sense) is doing 4 boulder problems back to back with no rest beyond dropping off and walking to the next problem. Rest a few minutes, then repeat, 4 times = 4x4.
For both options, remember that any indoor foot hold will be better than a Malham one, so you may need to make the problems slightly steeper than Raindogs to compensate. 20degree overhanging board could be perfect (middle section of bouldering at Awesome Walls Stockport?)
not sure will probs do the usual warm up of soloing sunset slab and crack, lead/solo motorcade to see if my head is working, maybe try repeat four pebble slab and go on from there.
My ticklist is extensive but nothing easy for there ... pretty much ticked off up to E1.
Long johns, great slab (plus harder scarier stuff) are high on my list but I have not climbed in this style in a while plus if the suns out that area can be boiling even in winter.
Cool, don't know if you've done them but in that style of climbing and grade Ratbag and Grip are very good (especially as they only get one star between them).
how tall are you?
please send me the sequence :o)
what grade shall i do that on?
I remember a similar experience. Last summer my preferred projects in the Tremelo / New dawn area were seepy so I spent a few sessions on Raindogs, more for fitness training than anything. After a few sessions it went from every move feeling impossible, all the moves being doable but debilitating - I needed two or three rests - after the crux "bowl over" move and at the final overhang (with possibily another for the final move).
For me, I think the key is to get fluid enough to blast through the crux and develop enough recovery ability to use the half rest there. From there to the finish would largely be another test of speed - I foresee a lot of falling off that finish.
The sequence over the overhang is what confuses me though. I was generally trying it pretty direct with a strenuous clip. However, I have since heard that you can go left to a decent undercut to make that clip. I remember playing with the undercut but could never figure out how to get back into the overhang - any beta?
I've spent 1 session on Raindogs. It's such a good route. I agree with all above about the holds all being very positive. But the feet are crappy and polished which means you pump out on your arms quickly. There is a half-height jug which I used as a reference point. I did it in 2 halves to the jug and from the jug after the third attempt on it. I did however find the moves towards the top the most difficult (although I think I had pretty duff beta getting to the chains). It was crazy, we were the only 2 people at the crag so I had nobody to scrounge beta from. The first few pockets were a bit damp as well which was annoying.
All goes well, I'll be spending a lot more time in Yorkshire from September onward.
Grubes, get yourself on Strapiombo. Probably the thuggiest route I've ever done!!
> All goes well, I'll be spending a lot more time in Yorkshire from September onward.
Not really my thing Been on strapiombante a couple of times dropped the top move about 5 times over two visits vowed never to go back after the first trip same after second.
Strangely had the same experience on pedestal crack ...
Ah I was there this morning too...
*searches memories for blonde climber falling off reds*
If you saw an average-height woman rolling about on the mat trying to pop her dislocated shoulder back in, that was me :(
MAINTAINING POWER OVER THE SUMMER.. what do folks usually do? i don't boulder for months then i go back to the wall in the winter and feel i've lost all my power even though i've pushed myself hard on routes
i'm not sure about bouldering outdoors as a way of really pushing myself to build power as i'm worried about taking falls on crash mats... and breaking my ankle or something.... so... is bouldering once or twice a week throughout the season common?.. or do most of you just climb routes(if you're trad or sports climbers that is)and accept that you'll have lost summer power?
Once a week maintenance session? Personally I assume that doing redpoints keeps me in reasonable shape, and anyway after a few sessions down at the wall it all comes back...
I tend to assume the uk summer wont cause me issues in managing to pop to the wall occasionally, so I don't let it worry me too much, but if you think you really suffer over the summer then usually the suggestion in training articles etc is that once a week should at least let you maintain one area of your climbing whilst your primary focus is elsewhere...?
I've sub-lux'd it many times (the best was during an overhead press such that I dropped the weight on my head!) but it usually pops back in immediately - yesterday it didn't though, cue much flailing about trying to get it at the right angle. It's sore now but not too bad - I'm going to have to dig my resistance band out at the weekend and do some proper rehab instead of being lazy and hoping it might just go away...
In that case I'll save my story of the dislocated elbow for another day :)
Blimey - hope it goes back in like it should as quick as possible.
Ah it was only out for about ten seconds - it was just a very long ten seconds...
Bit of background to begin with: I started climbing 3-4 years ago whilst living in the US, I was awful, utterly awful, overweight and extremely weak/unfit. I stuck at it though (partly as an excuse to perv on the hottie who worked at my university wall, honestly). I moved back to the UK 2.5 years ago and carried on climbing, mostly top roping indoors and easy trad. I've always had a bit of an aversion to leading indoors for some weird reason, I feel much more confident on run out scary grit routes than I do indoors... weird. Since then I've struggled with a lot of nasty injuries (chronic ITB syndrome, torn meniscus, the list goes on) which has required several ops and almost constant physio.
This has all meant that I've never really fulfilled my potential, I know I'm capable of more than I have. I've managed to stay injury free from around November last year and confident that I'm going to stay that way I've been making a concerted effort to build a good base level of strength. I've mainly focused my efforts on bouldering with lots of supplemental push ups, pull ups and a little fingerboarding (repeaters) thrown in where possible.
Currently, I'm pretty solid at around v4 pushing in to v5 indoors, I started at about v1/v2. I tied on for a few top ropes over Christmas just to see where I was at and had gone from onsighting 6b to onsighting my first ever 6c+. Other than that I've not really done any routes for a very long time, haven't even been outside in foreevverrrr.
My rather wishy washy goal is to be in the best possible shape to crush everything in sight (ha!) when I move back to the US in about 6 weeks (to marry aforementioned climbing wall hottie, woo!). I'm still making pretty considerable gains on the bouldering front but I'm weighing up ditching the strength building plans in favour of ancap/aerocap, sorting out my leading head and getting some trad mileage in.
- Age 29
- Height 172cm
- Weight 62kg
My structured goals look more like this:
Short term goals (by April, 2013)
- Maintain weight
- Get comfortable on lead and redpoint 6c indoors
- Lead 10 VS or above routes outside
- Lead my first sport route outside
Medium term goals (by the end of 2013)
- Redpoint 5.11a sport (6b+)
- Headpoint 5.10b trad (E1 5b)
Long term goals (no set date)
- Get mountain fit again without getting injured
- Tick numerous classics in the High Sierra, Tetons and Bugaboos (too many to count...)
So yeah, that's me! I'll check in again later when I figure out a plan of action for next week, I'm still dithering about whether to carry on with the bouldering for another week or to move on to endurance/routes.
Usually ancap, aerocap and bouldering go together in your base phase and then aeropower is your peak phase.
Fwiw if you can translate indoor bouldering results to the outdoors then you are strong enough for the 11a already: I'd guess that super cruxy 11d might have a V4 crux, a more sustained one significantly less...
Owwwww that sounds horrible. I assume you meant you broke 26 bones in your wrist, rather than you broke your wrist 26 times?
The thought of dislocation gives me goosebumps these days! Please don't tell me about the elbow...
*awaits tale with sweaty palms and an evil grin
Twas a quiet Sunday morning; I woke early and crept out of bed to get some bouldering in before my day got busy.
I climbed to the top of the overhanging wall, got a touch of The Fear, and started downclimbing but somehow managed to get myself fairly horizontal. Then my hands slipped off but my feet didn't, so obviously I put my arms out to break my fall. The first bit of me to meet the ground was my right hand, and the impact dislocated my elbow but miraculously I didn't break any bones.
This was followed by a trip in an ambulance, a LOT of morphine, conscious sedation (and sending my boyfriend out of the room) while they re-located my elbow, six weeks in a sling and then months of physio until I was able to (mostly) straighten my arm again.
Not recommended. Especially not a week before your snowboarding holiday.
Tell us about your wrist!
Riding my motorbike, minding my own business doing 25mph and a guy in a rather large van decided texting would be a good idea. He hit me head on. Through the windscreen, drove up my leg, parked on my chest. Got out, uttered the immortal phrase "I didn't see him" and then reversed back down me. My right arm basically punched his engine block but I did all the usual stuff and was pretty battered to be fair.
Airlifted to hospital after hearing the Paramedic tell the Police I was going to die. Later that week they took me in to amputate the right arm below the elbow but after I was knocked out, they realised nobody had asked me to sign a release form. Brought me round and packed me off back to Northampton without telling me. The surgeons here were amazing and I still have my arm!
It's funny. I knew I wasn't going to die, even though I was in a bit of a state but when the Doc said they were going to try and relocate my fingers as they'd been out too long - it was quite a relief. They wouldn't have bothered if I wasn't going to make it. Relocation was the most painful thing in the whole sorry affair! I had no bone able to support the wrist or attach it to the elbow and the skin and muscle kept stretching haha.
A mad day. I really do feel for you if dislocation keeps happening.
That's a pretty amazing story.
I always heard that you can't physically remember pain but i can vividly remember they day i dislocated my knee.
Whilst sedated ( bit of morphine and gas and air ) in A&E now just in my underpants as they had cut my trousers off.I didn't care the curtains were open because i was off my head and a man in a white coat walked past, looked at me, and then turned round and came in my cubicle.
" I can see the problem " He confidently said. "How about i pop it back in and then you will be out of here in no time?"
It sounded great to me so i agreed. The cries of pain brought some other people in white coats into my cubicle after a couple of minutes at which point he decided it probably wasn't going to go back in that easily and promptly buggered off. I never did get his name.
I then vomited everywhere and passed out. When i came too i was naked under a hospital gown (I had vomited on my underpants ) but my knee was back in place at least :0)
Thanks to grubes and AJM your message has been received! The wonders of fit club never cease.
I think your predicament was slightly worse, to say the least. Can't imagine hearing you are going to die and then nearly having your arm amputated.
I'd have loved to have been a sports shrink in hindsight.
The ability to endure suffering ( or hard training as it is sometime known ) is certainly what sets the elite apart from the rest of us i think.
just been to malham ... fingery set of bast**d routes from hell fire.. i forgot how painful that place is!!! not as pain as getting broekn into tiny pieces by a van, dislocating your shoulder/elbow or you knee.. bu a bit more painful than breaking a finger nail
yeah, felt ace... want it every weekend now!!! *stamps foot*
Not got as much movement in the wrist area, maybe 40-60% depending on the movement and the strength goes as it gets near its limit. There's moves I just can't do, certainly inside where there are no other options. If I ever manage to onsight 6b outdoors I'll be well happy!
Can't use the wrist as too much of an excuse tho - other people have far worse to cope with. I'm just crap to be fair.
Mrchewy & annak - I got squeamish just reading your stories! Hardcore plus points to you both!
5 laps on 7th aardvark.. i didn't put the r0pe up on anything else and sarah and i were enjoying doing that over and over... on top rope only .. good fitness session..if i can get used to the feel of malham relatively quickly i hope to RP 7th ard in the spring and then i am sort of planning on starting another project that that's much harder ..crazy because 7th felt hard yesterday.. it felt fine in septemebr after RPing something stupied ..the holds felt big.. but they didn't yesterday!!but think that's about not being on rock .. and that style of climbing since september.
i'ver been doing alot of bouldering on steep stuff.. on not necessarily on juggy stuff either... but so far it hasn't been of much benefit for yesterday's route...
where've you been climbing?
Malham sounds horrendous!
> just been to malham ...
mind me asking how conditions were? how wet was it?
Time away from rock and having newly gained strength can often take time to come together. Subconsciously your brain will still be saying you can only pull X hard, even though you can now pull Y hard.
If you're doing 5 laps on it you could probably crack it off now ?
I can't do 5 times up a route at my limit in a day.
5 laps on 7th aardvark.. i didn't put the r0pe up on anything else and sarah and i were enjoying doing that over and over... on top rope only .. good fitness session..if i can get used to the feel of malham relatively quickly i hope to RP 7th ard in the spring
If you can do five laps on it then red pointing it should be easy surely?
Space Race is a great 7b+ if when the left hand side has dried out.
nlot clean laps tho...rested a bit.. hadn't worked some of the footwork out... but know it will come
Ow. ow, ow ow.
Great war stories though :)
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