/ climbing the arete to left of elder crack at curbar edge

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BolderLicious - on 27 Jan 2013
The arete to the left of elder crack at curbar edge has not been climbed.
Is it possible to climb it free? Has anyone tried any moves on a top rope?
Looks like the only thing that can hold a climber on the arete is friction.
Or are there some good pebbles somewhere?
jonathan shepherd - on 27 Jan 2013
In reply to BolderLicious: I thought that was Elder Statesman done by Steve Mclure.
Morgan P - on 28 Jan 2013
In reply to BolderLicious: If the first replier is correct, this is a video of it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDTAKVUE_g4
Gordon Stainforth - on 28 Jan 2013
In reply to jonathan shepherd:

It seems that a prime requirement is that you're 'not very good with fear' :)
Jonny2vests - on 28 Jan 2013
In reply to BolderLicious:

Next thread?
Simon_Sheff - on 28 Jan 2013
In reply to jonny2vests:

Its not been done direct. The elder statesman traverses out onto it from eldar crack.
Jonny2vests - on 28 Jan 2013
In reply to Simon_Sheff:

Yeah, I know. I was just having a wee dig at Threadalicious.
BolderLicious - on 28 Jan 2013
In reply to Morgan P:
That isn't a traverse it's a dive sideways!
Jonny2vests - on 28 Jan 2013
In reply to BolderLicious:

Its an extemporisation. :-)

He only misses out 1 move on the arete, because he has to place the six. Don't you reckon it would be a bit contrived to place the six, down climb a bit of elder, then head back up the arete? Or maybe you're thinking forget the six and go balls out?
Graham Hoey - on 28 Jan 2013
In reply to jonny2vests:

I understand there's a bit more to it than that i.e. it's a lot harder to climb the lower bit than what Steve did. It has been tried.
BolderLicious - on 28 Jan 2013
In reply to jonny2vests:
It would be contrived going back down.
That move steve maclure makes shows what a creative thinker the guy is.
And it still takes a lotta bottle to do it.I know he claims he isn't into danger but I reckon his idea of danger and mine are two very different
things.What I want to know is has anyone actually hung onto the bottom of the arete and managed to move upwards -even one move!What grade do people
think it will be if/when it is done?
bouldery bits - on 28 Jan 2013
In reply to BolderLicious:

Steady HVS mate.
Kid Spatula - on 28 Jan 2013
In reply to BolderLicious:

I've heard its severe if you don't do the crazy foot move.
Jonny2vests - on 29 Jan 2013
In reply to Graham Hoey:

No doubt. I'm just saying there's not much of it, because the arete doesn't start on the ground I think?

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