/ climbing the arete to left of elder crack at curbar edge
Is it possible to climb it free? Has anyone tried any moves on a top rope?
Looks like the only thing that can hold a climber on the arete is friction.
Or are there some good pebbles somewhere?
It seems that a prime requirement is that you're 'not very good with fear' :)
Its not been done direct. The elder statesman traverses out onto it from eldar crack.
Yeah, I know. I was just having a wee dig at Threadalicious.
That isn't a traverse it's a dive sideways!
Its an extemporisation. :-)
He only misses out 1 move on the arete, because he has to place the six. Don't you reckon it would be a bit contrived to place the six, down climb a bit of elder, then head back up the arete? Or maybe you're thinking forget the six and go balls out?
I understand there's a bit more to it than that i.e. it's a lot harder to climb the lower bit than what Steve did. It has been tried.
It would be contrived going back down.
That move steve maclure makes shows what a creative thinker the guy is.
And it still takes a lotta bottle to do it.I know he claims he isn't into danger but I reckon his idea of danger and mine are two very different
things.What I want to know is has anyone actually hung onto the bottom of the arete and managed to move upwards -even one move!What grade do people
think it will be if/when it is done?
Steady HVS mate.
I've heard its severe if you don't do the crazy foot move.
No doubt. I'm just saying there's not much of it, because the arete doesn't start on the ground I think?
Elsewhere on the site
The B.D.V. — short for Black Diamond Vertical — jacket and pants are Black Diamond’s most versatile climbing... Read more
This streamlined, midweight thermal layer has an incredibly speedy moisture wicking ability and dries ultra fast if it gets... Read more
Climbing as a discipline offers plentiful metaphors for tackling life's obstacles - bravery, courage, climbing to... Read more
In tonight's Friday Night Video, we see Alex Honnold soloing Heaven 5.12d in Yosemite Valley. The route starts 3000ft above the... Read more
October 21, 2014 – Textile Exchange, a global nonprofit dedicated to sustainability in the apparel and textile industry,... Read more