/ Rock shoes - Braking in a pair
Any advice appreciated.
I had a pair of them, never climbed in them though, as they went back to the shop as the pain in my toe from them was unbearable. The odd thing was I tried a smaller pair and they didn't seem as painful, however I only tried them on for a few minutes. I can't believe you are in shoes that are 2.5 sizes smaller, I'm not surprised they are painful.
I believe leather shoes stretch and break in a bit more than synthetic uppers. I ended up going for some Boreal Jokers as they were far more comfortable, which whilst they were my first pair of shoes I thought that was the most important factor.
For my next pair I would like a more technical / performance style shoe, but I won't be going for a pair which are too painful still.
I could never get on with super-tight shoes - yes, they did make me climb better, but I didn't enjoy it. So I'd rather climb 6a in looser shoes and not be in pain, than 6b in tighter ones and be in pain.
Each to their own of course, but 11.5 if you are size 14 sounds a bit extreme!
Don't persevere with them, you'll just reduce the money you get when you give up and sell them.
From my experience, I'd imagine your ones are way too tight!
I had to come seeking similar advice when i got my 5.10 Teams.
I got them at street shoe size and they've been pretty hideous. Same reason of having my toe knuckles rammed into the toe box.
I dont get to climb much but over the course of a month and a bit they're starting to get useful. I still dont like falling on my feet in them as the toe bend hurts most but I've gone from taking them off every 10 minutes to having them on for most of the session, up to 3 hours. As mentioned previously, tightening the velcro up a lot, illogically, does seem to help, as does sitting with my heels out for a bit.
I know nothing of Evolve sizing but you do ultimately have to make a call as to whether they can or will be able to stretch enough for you to put up with them.
The most important thing is fit. They should be tight, snug fit without pain. They'll be uncomforable that is for sure. If you get a shoe that is right shape for your foot you will be able to go down to the right size for that shoe for you.
Having said that I buy Boreal Jokes in a size 8 which are a little painful for the first 1/2 dozen or so sessions (not notice-able while climbing). After that they are perfect, I can even belay in them. That is coming from a street shoe of size 11.
Go to a good rock shop who have staff who know how fit shoes. If you are in London try the folks at Mile End.
Only reason i can see for buying a shoe that's too small is if its only 'slightly' too small to account for the expansion of leather and such.
The guys at The Reach in south east london are great when it comes to shoe fitting
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