/ Most adventurous climbing areas
For dreaming, I asked myself what were the most adventurous climbing areas we can have.
By adventurous I mean:
-remote and wild place
-hard to escape
-no gear in place
-far away routes...
For me in UK, although I don't know all this places:
-Gogarth cause sometimes you can't escape
-oaklands for same reasons but more remote
-some extreme loose rock scrambles
-Ordesa, Naranjo de bulnes in spain but I know there is very remote places in spain
-Alps, pyrénées, some routes in the Verdon or in the calanques, and Bavella in France
-Dolomites, val di mello in Italia
What else?? Have you some ideas?
(in the wold it's too hard cause there is everywhere crags like Tepuy in Venezuela, Mont Asgard, Himmalaya, Antarctica...)
Surely loads of bits of Scotland - the Cuillin and central Cairngorms spring to mind are wilder and woollier than the Ben? It's got a hut halfway up and a nice path down with a pub at the bottom!
Also: Lliwedd, Dover.
You could potentially put Carnmore Crag on the list as the most remote major inland Scottish cliff, but to be honest the only really adventurous areas in the UK are on the biggest cliffs on the more distant Scottish islands and potentially on some of our sea stacks.
Remote major crags:
- Sron Ulladale, Harris
- St Johns Head, Hoy
- Arch Wall, Pabby
- Dun Mingulay, Mingulay
Old Man of Hoy, Castle of Yesnaby, North Gaulton Castle, Am Buachaille etc.
I've never been to CG, but I'm absolutely dying to go. Mercury Direct is one of my top routes to do, keep nearly getting there but conditions or wussy partners have meant it hasn't happened. I hear great things about the crag...am I being cruelly sandbagged into probably death?
Not on Mercury Direct you aren't. We did the Mercury connection approach which is good fun in case you need a slightly longer outing.
The Atlantic coast of Cornwall provides a few highly adventurous routes: i.e. tottering Fowleresque brushes with the grim reaper.
Bukator, Beeny Cliff, Willapark, Lye Rock and of course the big daddy Henna Cliff.
I'm not up to it at the moment, and I know it needs good conditions, but I view America as a top aspirational tick. I know it might be horrowing, but it's a route I would love to have done (that's my idea of a kudos route - not some hard Raven Tor redpoint!).
Psychologically midly trickyfor nervous types, but physically totally undemanding.
10 minutes from the road.
Hardly fits the bill to be honest.
> You could potentially put Carnmore Crag on the list as the most remote major inland Scottish cliff, but to be honest the only really adventurous areas in the UK are on the biggest cliffs on the more distant Scottish islands and potentially on some of our sea stacks.
> Remote major crags:
> - Sron Ulladale, Harris
> - St Johns Head, Hoy
> - Arch Wall, Pabby
> - Dun Mingulay, Mingulay
> Sea stacks:
> Old Man of Hoy, Castle of Yesnaby, North Gaulton Castle, Am Buachaille etc.
I think there are a lot of routes on Gogarth far more commiting and adventurous than those last few sea stacks you have named, I have done the first three, actually if its Scottish stacks you're talking of then The Old Man of Stoer is a real commitment. And of course St Kilda has the most adventurous routes in GB.
The north Devon (Exmoor) coast is probably the most remote climbing area in England. North Cornwall can be very serious Carn Gowla, the Culm etc, but never that romote -although it may feel it! Nice long routes abound often om suspect rock and with big seas to compliment.
I don't think so. Things these days are rather different from when you were putting up routes at Gogarth.
Having seen the coastguard cliff rescue team out practicing top-down technical rescues along with the RNLI lifeboat at Gogarth and seen how proficient they are, I cannot consider any route there as having any real commitment in the sense of needing to be self-reliant in case of an accident/emergency.
There is phone signal (often Irish operators) over pretty much the entire area and if you call for help you're pretty much guaranteed that you'll be rescued within an hour, two at most. In fact, I would say you'd get rescued from half-way up Gogarth far quicker than pretty much any of the big mountain crags in Snowdonia.
Scottish sea stacks and the island sea cliffs are a completely different propositions and, as it was when you originally climbed at Gogarth, the chance of a timely rescue from halfway up a route are low or non-existent.
I've put Gogarth in the list cause I climbed there with a big big sea, big waves, lot of wind and the rain never far away. In the north stack arch, you think if you have a problem, you will not have rescue by the sea, not by the top (due to the overhangs). BUT it's possible by the route you just tryed, and the phone is OK (if you take one - if not, commitment can change everywhere you climb!)
But in Gogarth, you feel far away! I prefere it than Cloggy (only climbed right hand slab route: very bad, big easy runout and scrambling to the top...)
And have you some other places? I like seeing photos, new crags...
And thanks for the first topics!!
Lundy should get a mention - the Devils Limekiln is a pretty wild place to climb - especially when the seas are up!
Climbing at the Needles on the IoW looks pretty adventurous, I'm sure some of the huge shale cliffs on the North Cornwall coast (e.g. Beeny and Bukator) are pretty "out there".
Remote(ish), semi-desert location. No water. Bugs and critters. Access on unsurfaced 4x4 tracks. Some serious big wall routes with, er, "sporting" bolt spacing (where present). Real possibility of no other climbers anywhere around. No mobile signal. No nearby landlines. Nearest MRT is in the next country, thousands of miles away ....
+1 for Dover, which has extra criteria vs that laid down by the OP:
-Uncertainty whether you are on the right route
-Uncertainty as to whether the route you are trying to climb has changed or even still exists
-Uncertainty as to what the grade of the climb will be or where the crux will be
-Risk of the coastguard trying to rescue when you don't need rescuing
-Potential for new routes
For me Ben Nevis wouldn't make the adventure climbing list.
For me personally its all about sea cliffs.
Example the Exmoor coast, about as good as UK adventure climbing can be.
I would argue that Ben Nevis is probably one of the least adventurous places to climb in the Highlands. Compared to say Torridon.
> I would argue that Ben Nevis is probably one of the least adventurous places to climb in the Highlands. Compared to say Torridon.
It rather depends on what you do doesn't it?
Staple Edge Quarry during January and February of 2010
Lundy is adventurous. Boulder Ruckle Swanage always feels adventurous to me
> Boulder Ruckle Swanage always feels adventurous to me
Agreed commencing with the free ab in near Marmolata Buttress. The degree of adventure increases with the sea state! :)
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