/ Least Adventurous Climbing Areas
By unadventurous I mean:
-easily accessible (short walk in, no abseiling)
-friendly flat base
-gear in place, or ample natural gear available
Of course a crag can fulfil all or most of these criteria and still offer a great day out, perhaps one where the focus is on the moves rather than the "experience"
PS I am a big fan of adventure climbing!
> By unadventurous I mean:
> -easily accessible (short walk in, no abseiling)
> -friendly flat base
> -gear in place, or ample natural gear available
> -single pitch
> -reliable rock
> Of course a crag can fulfil all or most of these criteria and still offer a great day out, perhaps one where the focus is on the moves rather than the "experience"
> PS I am a big fan of adventure climbing!
Reiff, Polldubh, Logie Head, Creag Dhu, Polney Crag.........the list goes on!
Await incoming bite
I had thought of Subluminal - least intimidating seacliff I've visited - but then the pro there isn't always great and it's seen its fair share of accidents
East Anglia, hands down.
Taff's Well down here in South Wales is about 40m from a dual carriageway with easy parking.
I can be a bit of an adventure trusting some of the older bolts though...
Sadly, you are no longer allowed to park there and have to walk all the way from the road!
As for a close second, I would say Windgather.
> Taff's Well down here in South Wales is about 40m from a dual carriageway with easy parking.
> I can be a bit of an adventure trusting some of the older bolts though...
What about some of the completely unbolted old routes? That was adventure with capital letters, and a few people died there ...
Bowles Rocks becomes a bit adventurous if you solo the Girdle Traverse ...
Surely it's Shepherds. Or Threecliffs in the Gower. Approach across level sand to short well protected diffs in abundance. Of course the tide might get you though.
That dreadful sport crag near Chamonix with the bolted on holds...
You'd struggle to beat Raven Tor for those criteria. If you can handle the relatively huge walk-in there's Kilnsey too.
At least the routes round the back still have an adventurous approach. last year the vegetation reached lost world proportions.
I'd say Dewerstone for trad, admittedly it has a walk in of sorts. So maybe that disqualifies it. But other than 10 min walk it's got flat picnic areas, easy to place/bomber gear, mostly tree belays so no faff, reliable rock.
It's also really good climbing.
> Reiff, Polldubh, Logie Head, Creag Dhu, Polney Crag.........the list goes on!
I propose Benny Beg - fits all the criteria!
Bowles Rocks, I would say.
> East Anglia, hands down.
Well it certainly has a flat base.
i'd say windgather.
benny beg's also a wee bit on the limp side, in terms of adventure.
Castle Inn Quarry?
Fails the initial criteria for several reasons.
Flat ground - in places, others worrying, steep, muddy slopes and very large drops below path
ample natural gear, in places, but not many
reliable rock - there's not an much of that at all
it sees more than its fair share of nasty accidents, rockfalls and deckouts
all in all, quite adventurous climbing with good parking and a tea cabin thing on hand.
The defence rests your honour.
> Await incoming bite
Baslow in the Peak
Wow, I had no idea. How long ago was that? And do you know which route?
Maybe I'll withdraw my vote for Taffs Well then and instead put forward Tirpentwys, another South Wales crag with a nice short walk along a tarmac path through a nature reserve to find some short, sheltered and grid bolted lines. Lovely routes to climb, but adventurous they are not.
Horseshoe bend buttress at cheddar. Flat, a 1 metre walk in, bolted routes, some overbolted, with solid lime and not much chance of rock fall from above. The greatest hazard is getting run down by a pleb in a Nova.
Head End Quarry/Sandale (Cumbria). I can't believe Skyfall hasn't suggested it already...... ;-)
I am fairly certain that someone was killed on Pine Tree, and possibly another one on Nero.
tiger cub special
red rose speedway
Can you honestly deny that these low to mid grade routes are fantastic?
There's many more across all grades.
Harborough in the peak in second place?
bowles can be very adventurous.
We used to get train from London bridge to tunbridge wells. Pint there, then route at bulls hollow, pint, walk to happy valley, route, pint on walk to to high rocks annex, pint, route at high rocks continuation, pint, route at high rocks (no paying, that's cheating and immoral)...
Continue round area, poncing lifts where necessary.
Bowles can then be very adventurous. Depending on what order you arrive there.
I couldn't name any though as I've never bothered to find them.
> Baslow in the Peak
I think Baslow is rather adventurous actually. In summer it can hard to negotiate the bottom of the crag due to bracken and I associate the crag most with routes around HVS that have no gear and cartwheeling-down-the-hill landings at best. I have shat myself more than once at Baslow.
I have shat myself more than once at Baslow.
Have you climbed at the roaches recently per chance?
> Roche Rock >
> Its a bit of a walk to get to Logie Head. And then theres the ticks and the creepy pet cemetery you have to walk past.
Well the OP did say 'short walk in with no abseiling' so it might qualify. But there are also the steps to negociate so maybe that disqualifies Logie Head!
I agree with Windgather. Least adventurous crag I've ever been to. In Wales I'd nominate Dali's Hole sport climbing or Porth Clais in North Pembroke.
> I agree with Windgather. Least adventurous crag I've ever been to. In Wales I'd nominate Dali's Hole sport climbing or Porth Clais in North Pembroke.
Don't agree with Porth Clais, you have to ab in and with a big sea running and the tide coming in it can be quite scarey.
I agree. I've had plenty of adventure at Sennen - waves over the crag, the blowhole (since exploded), slabs covered with slime, the descent chimney covered in slime, an abseil rope wearing through, proper jamming and stiff grading...
I realised after I'd posted that there was more than just the bit I was thinking of. I was thinking more about the bit with Red Wall on it, where you can scramble down to the bottom. It's certainly the friendliest sea cliff I've ever been to.
And Southern Sandstone because although technically challenging, it's incredibly safe being all top roping (ie non adventurous)
> And Southern Sandstone because although technically challenging, it's incredibly safe being all top roping (ie non adventurous)
I should add though that if you are so inclined you can make it very adventurous by soloing :)
No mention of Burbage North yet. The 20ft wall is full of very short easy routes and is 1 minute from the car.
Anything on grit - come-on don't kid yourselves otherwise!
Any sport route crags - assuming properly bolted and the rock reliable
Overall, Bowles Rocks must be the winner though.
Not really - most places are too long to top rope.
I agree, but top roping compared to soloing or leading is hardly adventurous is it?
> I propose Benny Beg - fits all the criteria!
...and it has baby-changing facilities, and a garden shop! I once saw aa climber there with baby + grandparents - all happy!!
Seems not to rain when wet nearby too.
search "toprope tough guys" on youtube, cant post a link as I'm in China atm
Surely tramadol deserves a mention if we're talking trad cliffs only. 5ft from a main road, barn with bunkbeds, indoor wall, cafe, toilets, washrooms, rafters to hang rope and sock wrestle from?
I guess it is mostly multipitch, in its defence?
The Indoor Wall
Buachaille Etive Mor with a thin veneer of rime?
Woodhouse scar - open the car door, cross the pavement, nip over a low wall and you are at the top of the crag. Beautiful views of the Halifax Building Society too
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