/ More or Less

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pepperpot - on 30 Jan 2013
A thought occurred today.

If visits to the wall (bouldering) is purely to develop technique whats best?

Is it better to do the 3 longer sessions so I'm getting a bit tired at the end which I suppose improves endurance.

Or would it better to do 4, 5 or even 6 easier sessions and just climb as long as my technique holds out, even if that's only 20 minutes.
Stone Muppet - on 30 Jan 2013
If you're after only technique, then the more you climb (well), the more you will get. So answer your own question from the point of view of what will get you more hours on the plastic.

Do you have the motivation and money for 6 sessions a week? In that case go for it (and you'll get endurance too).

On the other hand if you go for three sessions a week you can probably pull harder so will end up with more strength.

Doing anything upwards of 3 sessions/week at your limit you can hardly fail to gain either strength or endurance. Even though you say you only want technique, technique itself will vary depending on whether you're at the limit of your strength or limit of endurance. So probably best to periodize in any case, do 3/week for a while, then start ramping it up.
Shani - on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to pepperpot: Some light reading for you on The Size Principle:

http://www.scsepf.org/doc/291208/Paper1.pdf
The Ex-Engineer - on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to pepperpot: The standard training advice in terms of volume is generally something along the lines of:

- If you climb sport grade 6s, aim to train around 3 times per week averaged over each 4-6 week training cycle.

- If you climb sport grade 7s, aim to train around 4 times per week averaged over each 4-6 week training cycle.

- If you climb sport grade 8s, aim to train around 5 times per week averaged over each 4-6 week training cycle.


I can't see any reason to vary from that basic starting point. More specifically, it is nonsensical to talk of training technique in isolation. Basically, you will never improve technique without continually attempting harder moves which means pulling hard which means all the issue associated with strength training will apply. Namely, there will be a risk of over-training and regular recovery will be needed.

However, when it comes to training you ideally shouldn't do the same every week. A training cycle should build up to a peak followed by a recovery phase. An 'average' of 3 seasons per week could imply something like:

week1 3x
week2 3x
week3 4x (peak week)
week4 2x (recovery week)

or
week1 2x
week2 3x
week3 3x
week4 4x
week5 5x (peak week)
week6 1x (recovery week)

HTH
pepperpot - on 31 Jan 2013
In reply to Shani:

Cheers for that one. I think I may need the weekend in a quiet room!
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pepperpot - on 31 Jan 2013
In reply to pepperpot:

I cancelled my gym membership 3 months ago and now get three month passes so I can go as often as I like.

At the moment each session is 1-1.5hrs dependent on how late I finish work and the structure is generally warm-up, followed by 5-10 very easy problems (depends on time), then I start working on harder stuff. Some of these I can 'onsight' and others require several attempts, but the general rule is if I lose "good style" at any point, or it obvious I've got the sequence wrong then I climb down, have a rest, and start again. If I can't get a problem in 3ish attempts I move onto something else.

From reading the responses, perhaps I'll stick to the three a week, but one or two very very easy sessions in between isn't going to hurt is it?

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