/ Tower ridge, Douglas boulder shortcut.
Or can you actually go both ways?
The left: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=85281
The right: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=85280
Normally to the left though.
The ridge is very long already and the cruxes are at the top, but another alternative to consider is the South West Ridge or the Direct Route on the Douglas boulder as a fun start to the day BUT only if you are going to be (proper,) fast on them (it does make for a great day out!)
The biggest drama is usually waiting for people to get across Tower Gap, make sure you are up early and keep faff to a minimum until after the gap (almost the top of the route!) You could also take a larger than normal bothy bag and invite the rest of the queue in for a song (why are we waiting...)
Don't stitch up your second by putting in minimal gear on the Eastern traverse!
I've been watching a few videos online of it, cracking be-nightment of the ridge on youtube "Tower Ridge Epic" really good watch!
cheers again bud :)
There is an easy ramp on the left side of the start of the ridge which avoids the 1st steep pitch and is a time saver and a way of overtaking folk ahead of you too!
I'd only take it if the visibility is good, the line is quite visible before you get stuck into the gully.
It may be possible to belay in the gap (we did but that was before various rocks came away).
Have a great day, and take care.
Post some photos/video when you get back.
yeah but if you take that line you don't get the tick ;-)
To be fair they went prepared for an overnighter with the full expedition packs
Yeehh, but we did the Direct route on the Douglas boulder in Alpine conditions, I dropped my crampons and had to go down 200m for them, cleaned a rope off a route to the left and then had to call mountain rescue for a friend on Tower Scoop and we still topped out in good time for a great bum slide down No 4 (cracking day.)
It's not one upmanship, but faff avoidance; on the ridge we moved together until the eastern traverse, pitched til the end of tower gap then moved together again. Pitch what you want, but if there is no gear between you and the belay, you thought it fine and are confident to continue, tell them to strip the belay and start climbing!
That's exactly what I was thinking watching it
Good vid, you would not want to be stuck behind them though! How did they loose 3.5 hrs getting to the start? Its only an hour to the CIC from Torlundy at a steady walk. What were they carrying?
> Have a great day, and take care.
> Post some photos/video when you get back.
Just my Fuji bridge camera, the chap with the curly hair in the photos.
(I don't have any) had his DSLR and his sunset photos were fantastic.)
Hats off to them. What happened to the 'best climber is the one having the most fun'?
If adventure = fun, they were definitely having fun.
Wasn't denying the fun, after all Tower ridge is an adventure. Looked like a good day out, all be it a long one. I would have liked to ask "Did you underestimate what you had let yourself in for?" though.
"Only an hour from Torlundy to the CIC" - Are you Mo Farah's training partner?
If I am not stopping and walk at a good clip then I would take 1 hour 20 (from the bottom car park) best case scenario -with a pack and consider myself to be pretty fit.. and would be passing people in front of me far more than being passed.
I agree 3.5 hours is a long time - but the important point is they kept it together when it mattered most - noticeable when it got dark around tower gap and were self-sufficient.. I guess it is one of these weight versus speed balancing acts. Looks like they were as a 3 as well which wouldn't have worked in their favour massively
Its not as far as you think, dress lightly and get your head down, you can get up to the cic very quickly. Even a pie eater like me! :)
My regular climbing partner is usually a bit quicker, no matter how fit I think I am, Martin is always faster, definatley sub 1hr for him.
Don't particularly want to bicker about it and am not disputing that you cannot, but based on experience in winter with a full climbing pack I think the mean time would be + 1 hour 30
In summer, don't even think about taking the gully to the right. It's a bad place
It's been a standard ploy over the years to invent ridiculous times for reaching the CIC hut. I take 2 hours and sometimes more and I'm proud of it.
> It's been a standard ploy over the years to invent ridiculous times for reaching the CIC hut. I take 2 hours and sometimes more and I'm proud of it.
Couldn't agree more. I used to take about 1.5 hours, however last week I took 3 Hours! It was hard going......
Maybe you boys don't get out enough! ;p
I usually do it in 17 minutes and 45 seconds, despite being very unfit and carrying a massive pack as standard.
Its only an hour to the CIC from Torlundy at a steady walk.
Don't be ridiculous - its 650m and 4km. Doing that in an hour is practically running, not a steady walk.
I regularly run it in 45 minutes, but I think it would have to be a very "steady walk" indeed to do it in an hour.
I take about 90+ minutes. The steep sections up to the upper car park are the worst, I'm no fan of it first thing in the morning but once up above those I can usually enjoy the rest of the walk-in. I've taken 2 hours on a couple of occasions and also spent 30 minutes trying to get across the Allt a'Mhuillinn when it's been in spate. I make it about 5.5km and 600m ascent from carpark to CIC - 2 hours is not slow.
There is no whinge about the path from me, I remember the old one!
The times I've bothered to look it's usually about 1hr 45mins.
Elsewhere on the site
In tonight's Friday Night Video, we see Alex Honnold soloing Heaven 5.12d in Yosemite Valley. The route starts 3000ft above the... Read more
October 21, 2014 – Textile Exchange, a global nonprofit dedicated to sustainability in the apparel and textile industry,... Read more
This streamlined, midweight thermal layer has an incredibly speedy moisture wicking ability and dries ultra fast if it gets... Read more
So, just what is the Petzl RocTrip? Every year French climbing manufacturer pick a sport climbing area that has potential... Read more
The B.D.V. — short for Black Diamond Vertical — jacket and pants are Black Diamond’s most versatile climbing... Read more