/ UKC Fit Club 307

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grubes - on 03 Feb 2013
So after a beautiful day in the peak yesterday hope you all had a good weekend.

Well done Joughton on the 8a!

UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (306) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=536224

Daniel Heath - Nice raining week get out on rock this weekend?
Deacondeacon - Fear of falling is natural. You have to train your mind not to. First thing to do is get a belayer you trust. Second is fall. When I am struggling on lead in my head I am telling myself fall off don't drop off. Keep climb until you fall.
NMN - Working away is hard for training and on your life style and when you get back your just too knackered to do anything. Don't worry about it.
Joughton - Well done on the 8a. Beast! I an keen for malham again this year so happy to hold your rope if you head that way
Si dH - Happy birthday. Sounds close on the 7A+ still not checked out churnet
Eagle River - Well done on the 7b. Did you get to awesome walls yesterday? They set you an 8a on the lead ladder ;)
Kevster - Nice to get in 25 routes over two sessions good effort.
AJM - Sounds like a good day sunday. Well done on the new Fingerboard PB
Biscuit - Sounds like a successful scouting mission.
Sean Kenny - Hope your trip to east yorks went okay.
Leon - Obsessive training :) Just remember to build up and not go too hard too fast.
Ian Bell - Well done on the fingerboard gains
Grubes - no wall session at all? Put the effort in!
Mattrm - Well done on the Ollie. I used to skate too (badly) but I left my board in the back room of a KFC (that's a different story)
Jamming dodger - Hope your okay
Maria85 - gutted for you on mam tor. Best winter fail I have heard was my mates heading to kinder best nick it had been for 10 years. got to the parking and realised one of my mates for got his boots ... So don't feel too bad about running out of batteries. Well done for getting the skis out
Kylieo - Nice goals and looks like a busy week
Nomics4sale - Well done on the 7a+. did you get out to wales with nik this weekend?
Sankey - How is the circuit board at the works with the new set? I have not been on it for a couple of years always found it too hard? Good effort on the 6b next time
Annak - Nice busy week. Hope the shoulders okay
Luke Owens - nice week well done on the snowmen :)
Ally Smith - Hope the fingers getting there. Those core exercises look a killer.
Exile - Hope your feeling better
Ali - Hope Portland went well. Expecting big ticks!
IainRUK - Training looks to be going well.
Allybee - Sick at the falling it feels better after time. Eventually it can feel fun. It is also better to train falling on a overhanging wall than a vertical wall.
Porkpiegirl - again reading your week made me tired ... sounds like your getting stronger. that V7 can't be too far away
odd toast - Nice happy birthday how was the cake? Victoria spoung? (I want some cake now ..)
Jimmykay - Snowday bloody teachers! ;o) The 8a will come. I remember how fresh you seemed after the 7c in chorro but that could be you were on your second (or third) bottle of wine. When ever I have done a hard route I am truly dead that evening. You probably just need to put the effort in on one while trying not to get bored of the route. You can't climb something you have not go on. happy birthday for yesterday Take it you are having a rest day today
Mr Chewy - Well done on the rockover and pull up PB
Styk - Welcome
grubes - on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes:
I forgot to say I am off away with work on the 23rd of feb. if some else can take over that week it would be great.
Also if some one can start the post for march I am happy to take back over in april
deacondeacon - on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks grubes,

STG-back up to Font 7A's on grit (by end of january) (DONE)

MTG-few routes on my wishlist, long johns slab, archangel, the rasp. (by end of april)

LTG- consolidate E4, at least 10 (by the end of 2013)

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Mon-routes at the foundry up to 6c

Tue-routes at the foundry up to 7a

Wed-bouldering at the works

Thu-routes at the foundry up to 6c

Fri-nothing

Sat-Soloing at Stanage and Lawrencefield

Sun-nothing

-----------------------------------

Thanks grubes, lots of indoor climbing this week trying to get my head into it and although I still haven't cracked the falling thing completely I climbed my first 7a. I'm just not prepared to do falling practice on a busy evening down the foundry but will get down there during the daytime this week and spend a whole session concentrating on it.

Highlight of the week was soloing on saturday morning, I had to make it an early session as I have family over but it was really good.
Was in much better nick than I was expecting and it was lovely to be moving about on real rock.
deacondeacon - on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes: I would be happy to take it over in the future when I've been involved in it a bit longer, can't do it in the short term, going on a New Zealand trip soon.

Did you get to Froggatt? Bet it was a lovely day over there, sheltered in the trees.
AJM - on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes:

If you don't get any other takers I can take over the reins once more for some of them. Let me know what takers you get.

Probably prefer not to do Easter, but definitely able to do the weekend of 2/3 and 23/24 March as have non-climbing plans for those weekends anyway.
Mr-Cowdrey on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes: Long time drifter making his way back into fit club! I've been looking in here every couple of weeks, and have now decided to commit back to it. I have a more detailed write up on the workouts for core and fingerboarding on my blog http://chriscowdreyclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/training-plan.html


STG (6weeks- Mar 2013):
Up strength by 25% (currently manage 11 pull ups. Target = 13/14)
Increase Endurance
Up motivation to train regularly!!

MTG (6months- July 2013):
Onsight 7a Sport (Route Pyramid: 1x7a, 2x6c+, 4x6c, 8x6b+)
- 'Shakin like a leaf'
Redpoint 7b+ Sport (As above: 1x7b+, 2x7b, 4x7a+, 8x7a)
- 'Chulilla'
Onsight/Headpoint E5
- 'Seven Mile Throb (Fairy Cave Quarry)
- 'Black Magic' (Pentire Head)
Consolidate at E3
Keep motivation high!!
Climb 8+ VS 4c+ multipitch routes for MIA training next year (13/30)

LTG (1 Year- Feb 2013):
Onsight 7b+
Redpoint 8a (1x8a, 2x7c+, 4x7c, 8x7b+)
Work E6
Climb 16+ VS 4c+ multipitch routes
MIA Training
Winter IV/V
Alpine D+

VLTG (5 years+):
8a, E6, VIII, ED2 (Onsight)
Gain MIA/MIC and start BMG training

Weight: 13st 3Lbs
Target Weight: 12st 11Lbs
Body Fat %: 13%
Target Fat %: 9%

Week of Training: 1 (Foundation building, Strength)
Weaknesses: Core strength, Crimp + Sloper, overhanging walls.

S: Nothing, recovering from minimal sleep and Ice climbing in Wales on Saturday
M: 40mins Core Strength
T: 30mins Core Strength, 2.5mile run in 19:45, 1.3mile run in 10mins
W: 20mins Upper Body Strength:
- pyramid pull ups on fingerboard
- Different hold per pull up set
- Total 85 pull ups (Target: 110!)
T: 1hr 10mins Bouldering:
- 3x14 steep wall lock-offs
- Threshold bouldering on small holds (30mins)
F: Nothing
S: Nothing

I've really got serious about training now after getting the psyche back last weekend. And so I've completely revamped my training plan, Thrown in a workout in what ever free time I have, and even bought myself a heart rate monitor for running.

This weeks goals:
3x Core workouts
3x Upper body workouts
4-5x Fingerboard
2x Indoor Bouldering sessions
4x Runs
pork pie girl - on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes:
s int training on bike in gym. and core. wanted to be sick afterwards it hurt so much, routes at wall leading.. 6b+, 6c+, 3x7as, 4x laps on 5+to 6c+ (down climbing on 5+ and rainbowing on the steep bit as i got more and more tired)
m -rest day
t- int training on bike in gym, core, bouldering .. made it to the last 2 moves of the v7 and fell off ..climbed this a few times then a 3x steep v5, routes 4 leads on 2x6c+ , 2x7a and 4xlaps on top rope
w-int training on bike, core. boouldering.. couldn'd face the v7 and it was going to be up for another 2 hours but my ring finger and little finger on left hand is shredded becuase of the moves involved.. made up routes... fingery steep stuff and lots of trying to campus on steep over hand but not many large hold to do this on.. but it kept me busy for an hour
t- int training on bike, core, weights.. lots of pull ups.. the same thing as usual
f- int training on bike mid am... back to work with beacon face, pm bouldering..all new problems (put up on thurs) tried to start off on a v7 as have been making a good effort on that grade .. backside kicked big time.. got a v5 and some lower grades... tried a v6 with a very powerful start.. spanked.. almost broke my neck on a weird v6/7 . sat on mat and sulked for 20 mins, got ratty with sarah , then pulled myself together anbd got back on the v6/7 with three blokes ... gradually learning what to do and made some good progress..
s-5x top rope laps on 7th aardvark, int training on turbo trainer in garage.. started off with down jacket on as so cold.. but soon warmed up.

Joughton on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes: Thanks Grubes!

Despite not getting out (again!) I still managed to have a really good week which was nice, with two good sessions and a big comp.

Mon - Had a really good session at MCC. There were four new lines set so I warmed up then onsighted all the routes 7a and above on those lines, which were 1x7a, 2x7b and 1x7b+. They all felt pretty steady apart from a near-slip on the 7b+, so feeling strong I gave the 8a a go. Climbed the first section really quickly up to the crux, had a really quick shake out on some crap holds then just went for it and stuck it. Pulled through a few more moves to a half-rest on crimps then just relaxed and plodded up to the top - really psyched.
Tue - rest
Wed - Session at Rockover, did the majority of the V3-5 circuit, then did two V7s, one second go, and three problems from the V5-V7 circuit, two flashed.
Thurs - rest
Fri - rest
Sat - RocFest at Rockover. Had a decent comp but the set was really hard, and I have a cold so felt a bit grotty. I was in the adults so the competition was ridiculously strong, but it was cool competing against people like Barrans and Ned Fehally, and there was a good set. I scored 146/300, which at first I thought was terrible but realised that everyone else had a pretty low score too. Don't know my ranking yet but I'll post it when I find out...
Sun - rest, still feeling ill:(

So a great week for training, and I ticked off two of my short term goals with the 8a and the not doing woefully at Rockover.

Managed to equal Eagle River's feat of doing all the routes 7a and above at a wall too, all but two of them onsight, though I'd have no chance of doing it at Stockport!

Cheers, Jake
biscuit - on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes:

Cheers Grubes.

Let me know any weeks that aren't filled and i'll do them. Can't do the 1st 2 weeks of march though as i am moving house.

Not a bad week as i set myself a lot to do and what didn't get done wasn't my fault.

M - Bike 25 min + Run 15min. First time on bike for years and first ever brick session. Hilarious legs not working for first few mins.

Weighted pull ups and 1 arm work.

T - Repeaters. Good session.
Tried to go swimming but got stuck in beaurocratic Spanish nightmare requiring various photocopies of various documents so my kids could get in for free. Wasn't allowed to use their photocopier ( which was right in front of me ) or pay for my kids as adults just so we could get in. Grrr !

W - Weighted pull ups and 1 arm work.
Core
Complexes - 2 sets

T - Repeaters
Complexes - 2 sets
Tried to swim but got 2 , yes 2, flat tyres and had to call out a recovery truck. Big Grrrr !

F - Bike 30min
Went to different pool and children are only allowed in for non lesson swims during certain hours, despite it saying otherwise on the website. Failed again. Grrrrrr !

S - Went out Fri night and ate something dodgy. Not good, in bed all day. Planned climbing in El Chorro cancelled.

S - Bike 40m
Complexes x2 sets
Core

So trying to get swimming meant that i used up the time when i should have gone bouldering. Not ideal.

I'm feeling pretty good after this week. I decided not to do body fat as i am coming into a strength phase and don't want to diet. I have been eating more, but at better times like straight after exercising. I look and feel like i've really trimmed up, weird, and i am feeling strong. It's only been one week but it's been months since i did anything intense and it feels like my body is waking up.

This weeks targets:

2 swim
2 bike
2 run - i've just printed off a free triathlon training plan and am going to follow that.
1 boulder
1 PE board session
1 repeaters
1 weighted pull ups/1 arm work
2 complexes
3 core
1 CLIMB ! - 7b in a session target still there.

So less sessions this week but i am going to do 2 sets of pullups and repeaters this week in the same session instead of 1.

The tri stuff doesn't seem to affect my climbing training so it should all fit together OK.
Kevster - on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes:
Thanks Grubes,

A good week this week, wasn't the weekend just fantastic weather?! Shame about the seepage....

Tues: Setting
Weds: Setting & fingerboard
Sat: Winspit, seepage central but hot in a T shirt! Had ambitions of trying Lunacy Booth (7c) but it was gopping. However, OS of Smiling asssasin (7a+) was the highlight grade wise - 3rd OS at this grade. So hopefully starting to improve the OS level. But I felt it was overgraded, so not a whole hearted victory. Tried another 7a+ (Dick darstadly- or similar name), worked the moves for a shorter person, but didn't have the psyche for the route to RP it. Rest were 6's. Enjoyed the day.

Feelig encouraged by having someone to fingerboard with & they are motivated, so I hope this will be at least a weekly thing. I am soooo weak arm wise! Gains to be made taht means.

This week: Fingerboard x1 indoorsx2 outdoorsx1 hopefully.

I am so looking forward to the year ahead.

Cheers, Kev
Eagle River - on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to Joughton:

> Managed to equal Eagle River's feat of doing all the routes 7a and above at a wall too

There weren't any 8a's at the wall when I did it......
Eagle River - on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks Luke.

Goal: 7c by April 2013 (Contenders: Tremelo, Metal Guru, Biological Need)

Mon: Routes indoors - Having run out of new routes I got back on the old leading ladder 7c which I surprised myself by doing. fell off a 7b+ for the rest of the evening then did laps.

Thurs: indoor bouldering for the first time in about 4 weeks. Felt pretty strong, glad to flash the V6 on the 45deg board showing i've not lost much power. Felt ruined the next day so clearly put some effort in.

Sat: routes indoors - felt stupid going indoors in such good weather but I didn't have a big enough time window to get outside as everything dry and relatively interesting is about 1.5hrs away given that limestone is still moist. New leading ladder routes are up so I tried and failed at the 7c, really hard crux at the top, kind of off balance. Flashed the 7b which was nice then failed 3 times when tired on the 7a which I think is going to catch a lot of people out.

Going to try and get out next weekend, weather permitting.
maria85 - on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes: Thanks, let me know if you're struggling for people to take over weeks.

Last week's goals:
2 x climbing wall tick
Orienteering tick
2 x bike to work tick
3 x short runs 2 done
1 longer run (10km) fail
3 x core, 2x fingerboard. core done. No fb.

M: Lunchtime run. Felt really sluggish but actually did it in the bottom end of the times that I was doing last year so pretty happy with that.
Depot - did a couple of new blues (V2-4) and a purple (V3-5). Came close to finishing a few more. Felt ok, got tired quick though. Core session at end.
T: Nothing
W: Biked to work.
Night street orienteering. Placed 8th overall, 2nd female, so happy!
T: Lunchtime run, legs aching from wed night so only 4km.
Harrogate wall. Led several routes up to 6a, then pushed pretty hard at end up to 6b+ on TR followed straight away with easier until I was falling off 5's. Need to do that more, my stamina sucks!! Core after.
F: Biked to and from work.
S: Burbage. Warmed up on a couple of VDiffs, then led Greeny Crack (VS4b) and Amazon Crack (VS4b) - awesome! Definitely felt a bit rusty but nice to be back on the rock and still be able to climb VS without too much of a fight. Fell off The Grazer (VS4c) on second though, just didn't have the strength to pull through the roof.
S: Was planning a run but feeling generally shattered and sore throat. Rest day to try and ward off any incoming illness. Went to try out bikes and decided which bike I will be ordering for the summer, exciting! Might jump on the fingerboard tonight if I'm feeling inspired.

Not too bad a week, definitely felt pretty achey most of it, possibly pushed a bit hard coming back from doing virtually nothing. This week's goals:

2 x short runs
1 x long run
2 x bike to work
Orienteering
3 x core, 1 x fingerboard
2 x wall (1 roped)
Si dH - on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes:
Thanks Grubes. I could do a week or two in mid-late March if someone reminds me.

STG (this winter through to March): tick at least 10 new Ft 7s, including at least one Ft 7b, before Font [so far: 5 Ft 7a, 1 Ft 7a+]

MTG: tick at least 5 Ft 7as in Font in March

LTG (March-Dec 2013):
- aim to onsight 10 E3s and 1 E4 in 2013. I've also updated my wishlist to reflect some of the routes I want to do if I get the opportunity.

Weekly training plan up to March involves:
- 2 wall sessions, focusing on bouldering with occasional ancap
- 3 fingerboard sessions
- 1 outside day
- 1 rest day
(minus a wall or fingerboard session when I manage two outside days)

This week:

M: Struggling to remember. Think I did a fingerboard session focussing on pockets and one-armed hangs.
T: Think I rested but I'm struggling to remember again(!) - might have gone to the wall for a bit.
W: Away with work. Spent some time on the hotel gym - 20 minutes on a bike (low intensity), 5x10 lat pull downs @ 50 kg, 3x15 chest presses @ 40 kg, 3 x10 ab exercise things @ 40kg, 5 minutes on the cross trainer (high intensity).
T: Bouldering at Alter Rock. Not bad, did another problem from the most recent set, there is only one I haven't done now, it's too hard. I put a harness on afterwards and realised how little endurance I now have - first time on a rope since Kaly in October. Dogged a 6c then failed to do the moves on a 7a. Argh!
F: Rest.
S: Bouldering at Baldstones/Newstones/Gibb Tor. Really wanted to try Baldstones Traverse but it was all too cold and windy (just completely baltic) so after doing a few 6b-ish things we bailed. Repeated Stallone Arete (6c+) easily on the way out, then tried S&M (7a+) for a while but it was too warm and greasy(!) Then went to Gibb Tor. Big improvement here - did Stall (7a) and The Fin (6c). Pleased with these.
S: Lazy day, been for awalk with Ruth and done some stretchign and some press-ups. May try ot do a fingerboard session later.

Pleased to do Stall and The Fin yesterday, think I could have done more but it was just the wrong conditions where we were - I think there were probably better venues we could have picked. Managed to stick to a mostly decent diet while away with work on Wednesday/Thursday which was good. The weightw*tchers diet is working pretty well I think.
Only 4 weeks to Font now!

Si
AJM - on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes:

Cheers grubes.

Indoor/training priorities
  • Redpoint something hard indoors, and do aerocap laps at the end of each roped session to boost base fitness
  • Push bouldering as hard as possible. Do some campus boarding too - 1-3-5 on small rungs and 1-4-6 on medium at TCA
  • Try and do some vaguely systematic ancap work at Gloucester Wall
  • Proper slopy pocket hang on a wall Beastmaker; maybe mono hang too?
  • Rolling average weight/body fat - ?

<STG> - pre Ceuse/S France trip in May
  • Until roughly my birthday, focus on hard moves. Either boulder problems (a non-p/e Fb7 in a route-relevant style - maybe Churnet/peak lime/Dartmoor/Snowdonia?) or bouldery routes (Global Solutions, maybe Black Snake Moan if it dries up, other short and punchy local contenders, maybe something on Portland?). <ticked - one grit 6C+-ish>
  • Spend bulk of March/April working on power endurance redpoints (maybe incl bouldering Ames Low at p/e 7A+) plus onsighting (Portland maybe?) to get head in gear for trip
  • Maybe get some pumpy E2/3 trad in if opportunity presents? 

<MTG> - 2013
  • Complete the 8a pyramid (currently completed 6/8 x 7b+, 3/4 x 7c, 1/2 x 7c+, 0/1 x 8a)
  • Right Hand Man
  • 7c/+ "holiday tick" (UK route away from home and/or foreign route)
  • Some trad - 10x E3s, try some E4s?
  • Onsight mainly on or as prep for trips (see priority below for reasoning) - more 7a+s, try to onsight/flash 7b
  • Get in best shape possible for 2014 road trip - mainly this means going out as strong as possible since strength will inevitably fade over the trip

<LTG>
  • Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations (eg Dreadnought, Big Groove, Dream/Liberator, Lubyanka, short-ish alpine rock of that sort of grade)
  • E4 onsight
  • 8a before 30
  • 7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags (currently done 7a+ at: Rodellar, Geyikbayiri)

<BHAG>
  • Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
  • E5 onsights
  • 8a/+ redpoints
  • 7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
  • Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something

M: Stretching, tiny bit of core, eccentrics I think
T: After some stern words from Ally Smith I decided that more core was the way. Did a bunch of crunches, some static stuff and some other things I can't remember. I think after I move house I may buy a Swiss ball and get a more systematic session together. Also did a bunch of zottman curls and other weights and some stretching. And I hit the fingerboard. Can't remember exactly what I did except that I managed 3x10secs@+15kg on the half crimp little rails. More improvement :) Also got on middle 2 on the middle rung pockets and did 3x10secs@+5.5kg. Feeling strong!
W: Warehouse. Sme warmups. 2 6c+ onsight. One good burn on the 7c, forgot sequence 6 moves from the top but still had a bit in the tank. Bodes well for getting up to that heinous final move. 2 poor goes as well. Also dogged the red 7b+ which feels really hard but quite cool. So I've now got a 7b, a 7b+ and a 7c to try and work. Good stuff
T: TCA. 3rd day on I was feeling pretty knackered and it took an age for my fingers to get warm. Eventually got there though. I decided to have a go at finishing the green circuit. There's some solid ones in there! Got one of the really hard ones though, took many goes, a steep aręte with heel hooking. I've now got 4 left I think, one is really sharp, one has really tiny feet so I'd need to remember to bring better shoes, not one for worn down soft slippers, and 2 hard steep ones. Would be nice to get at least one of these. Nice to be at the point where I can think that completing the circuit might be almost possible.
F: Rest. Knackered!
S: Peak bouldering. Baldstones to start, brief catchup with SidH. Freezing! Did a V0 then bailed. Went to Roaches, much walking round and faff trying to find the others and things. Ended up in lovely sun at Calcutta Buttress. Managed to do Limbless Limbo Dancer relatively quickly which is 6C in the old peak bouldering guide and 7A/V6 in the definitive and new peak bouldering - who knows, Si reckons its 6C+ so I'll take that. Hardest unroped boulder problem? Tried a 7A too but it made my elbow hurt, then got cold and unpsyched. Some good bits but need more defined objectives next time to minimise faff.
S: Been doing van stuff all day. Was going to train too, given I didn't feel like I did much yesterday, but I'm a bit knackered and achey now from van work so will probably rest up and do a big session tomorrow instead.

Decent week. Going to be very busy next week, combination of van stuff and house moving, but hopefully still manage some training time too.
Sankey - on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes: The new set is decent, most of the loops are above 7a, but there is a 6c+/7a and the 6b I was trying, and a 7a+ traverse. Been a good final week before my trip to Turkey. Will report back in three weeks time...

M: Static Bike 8 km
T: Static Bike 4 km
W: Foundry : Level 1 circuit
T:
F: Matrix : New 6b and repeated a fair few other 6b's I have worked recently
S: Works : Not too focused a session with a mate who hadn't climbing in ages, but dabbled at the black circuit and found them more doable than a month ago
S: Resting up and packing


STG: V4 ish boudlering e.g. Walnut Traverse at Birchen -WORKING / Crucifix traverse at Almscliff
2 problems I couldn't quite do last winter, so good benchmarks

MTG: RP 6c in Turkey Feb 5th onwards / French 7a boulder traverse equivalent at churnet

LTG: 7a Sport RP
Ian Bell - on 03 Feb 2013
Hi all

For me

M – 2x3x2 set of 7 on & 3 off on fingerboard. F5A hangs.
W – short routes session as I was late. O/S 6a+, 2x6c with some rests (not properly warmed up). OS 6c/+, 6b. Project 6c+ with 1 rest.
T – Routes. Still a bit tired from before. OS 7a & 6c (both slab). 6c+ project 1 rest, 6c lots of rests another 6 routes all around 6b+ ish.
F – 100 sit ups, 100 press ups, some stretching
S – 9xTRs 6a-6b+. 6c+ project (finally). 6c, 7a+, 7a lead dog. Tried 7b but far too hard.
S – 100 sit ups, 50 press ups.

Project done, now for another one. The 7a+ wasn't that bad so going to try and project that one.
Si dH - on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to AJM:
When/where are you moving?
Exile - on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes:

Getting there!

Goals:

Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3,
Winter VI 6

Goals for this Spring:
Boulder V7
RP - 7a+ / 7b
HP - E6
Winter - VI 7

Summer
Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.

This week:

M: Ill
T: Ill
W: Ill
T: 1hr 40 bouldering for power, 20min core
F: 1hr dry tooling
S: 40min very easy fell run
S: 2hr bouldering for power, 20min core

Progress really slowing on the bouldering, going to have one more week on, weeks rest while skiing and then come back to PE.

QUESTION:

Would 4x4s on the problems I have been using for power be the best way to start PE? How many sessions a week?
grubes - on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes:
STG (Mar 2013):
Possible short half term font trip - Not now had to use a days holiday to get car fixed
More than 1 7 in spain maybe a grade push
MTG (July 2013)
Climb harder than 7a in UK and abroad.
Lead E3 try onsight
LTG (End of 2013):
Top out the chief
Boulder 7A/V6 UK and try get one in Squamish.
Climb Great wall at squamish
7b
E3/4
Weight loss!

This Weeks Goals:
Tick a 7a at the wall - Fail Went to the football with my dad inxtead
Real rock assuming I get car fixed - Tick

M: Rest
T: core session. morning whil car was getting fixed
Depot 2/3hrs. Aweful comp round.
W: Rest. Town match with my dad.
T: Core Session
F: Rest
S: Froggatt.
Warmed up soloing about repeated a diff and vdiff (oh and the mod down climb)
Repeated Joes direct start. Tried the 6B aręte with no success. decided to give synopsis (E2) a go. bottled the first committing move down climbed to save it for another day. Tried the start of downhill racer above the mats jumped off when I could not work out where to go. Started to mantel out the start of Long johns but got distracted by my mates shouting abuse so reversed it. Couple more goes on the aręte then moved onto Oedipus direct (6B+).
After convincing myself I could not reach about a year ago. This time got a power spot and realised I could reach. A few more goes and tick! two years after first trying it ticked :)
Mate turned up so soloed about a bit while she warmed up. I then did Joes Slab aręte (6B) first try another project I first tried two years ago :)
Ran laps on joes direct start (about 4)
Soloed a HVD then a HVS.
Ended the day belaying and abusing a friend till she did the moves as she lead tody's Wall (she took about 45mins to get onto the upper slab and placed about 10 bits of gear in the upper crack :/)
S: Core exercises
Depot 2.5 hours
Not a great session but I felt I was climbing better again even if my back shoulders and elbow ached ...
Going to do some push ups and more core before bed.

Next Weeks goals:
Lead the wood 7a then work the other boulder 7a or the long 7a.
2 wall sessions in the week
Climb on Sunday.

bit of an easy week Think I need to focus abit more on routes and fitness my strength is better but still not 7A standard.
mattrm - on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes:


Thanks Grubes.

Continuous - Shoulder / knee rehab / ankle strengthening
1 - Lose 1/2 stone (1lbs loss)
2 - Improve finger strength (no progress)
3 - Improve footwork (two sessions - but no focused footwork)
STG - Climb 6b @ wall, 12st 6lbs TICK
MTG - Climb 6c @ wall, 12st 4lbs
LTG - Climb 7a & E1, 12st 2lbs
VLTG - Climb 8a & E5, maintain weight - 10st 7lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st

Weight - 12st 6lbs (1lbs loss)

M - Core
T - 10k run
W - 2 hour routes
T - 6k run
F - Core
S - Rest
S - 1 hour bouldering

Really happy with this week on all fronts. Decent amount of running. Decent amount of climbing. If I can keep this up I'll be a happy man. Didn't really progress loads on anything to be honest. But in terms of volume it's good. Got close to a couple of 6a+es and got a few 6as at the wall. Diet is still trogging on, lost a lb this week. Hope for the same next week as well.
leon on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes:
STG: Stick to the training plan.
MTG:
LTG(2013): Redpoint sport 7b, 1 e3, 1 e2 that plenty of people think is e3.
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Falls: 0(94)
Fat %: 12
Focus: Local Endurance(2/4)
Key weaknesses: Spotting sequences. Repertoire of moves. FoF.

Mon: Core.
Tue: Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V2,V2). Repeaters.
Wed: Nothing.
Thu: Nothing.
Fri: Light bouldering session.
Sat: Arc(30 mins). Repeaters. Arc(30 mins)
Sun: Weights. Core. Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V2).

Thanks for the warning. Though to be honest I'm not really that obsessive or dedicated. So I think my boby is safe!

Good week in that I got everything done I wanted to. Surprised at how quickly power endurance is returning.

Plan for next week:
4*ARC sessions(mon, tue, fri, sat, sun).
1 * volume bouldering(fri).
2*4x4 session(tue, sun).
3*fingerboard(tue, sun).
2*core(mon, sat).
1*weights(thur).
IainRUK - on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes: Not had a rest day for almost 2 months but 9 weeks now of 90 mile weeks and a good race this weekend, lost weight too, nice base period for the summer and using umemployment period well...

m: 6 miles easy road run
t: am: 9.65 trail run, NJ pinelands. pm: 7.35 treadmill, 1,2,3,3,3,3,2,1 min efforts at 5:50 pace, recovery matched time at 7:00 min mile. legs tired
w: 21 mile trail run, NJ pinelands, 7:25 pace
t: am: 4.5 mile easy treadmill. pm: 7.3 mile treadmill, 1,2,3,3,3,3,3,2,1 efforts @ 5:45 pace matched rest at 7 min mile
f: am: 6.1 miles easy road run. pm: 8.9 mile road run, @ 6:45 pace
s: rest day. easy 4.2 mile trail run
s: 15.7 mile run, including 13.2 mile trail half marathon race. won.. in the end. got lost few falls on icey snowy trails, 1:33 ish.
grubes - on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to IainRUK: nice one Ian. Not sure if this will interest you but a guy from work is running lands end to john o'groats in 20 days.
http://www.examiner.co.uk/news/local-west-yorkshire-news/2012/11/27/marathon-man-alan-boothroyd-back...

He's planning on doing three runs a day. feel sorry for his knees
Ally Smith on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes:

Pretty shitty week; been giving out more advice than following it!

LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham

MTG (Spring 2013) - Melanchollie at LPT & be fit for Terredets at Easter.

STG (end Jan 2013)
- Re-hab finger injury - and now painful wrist to go with it :-(
- Lots of elbow eccentrics - Zottman curls proving good combination exercise
- Sort out shoulder instability - getting a bit rounded shouldered.
- Yoga and core sessions
- Get back below 75kg (Backwards progress 77.1kg and 7.1% BF)

M - Nowt - brewing lurgy
T - Nowt - lurgy
W - Nowt - lurgy
T - Nowt - lurgy
F - Nowt
S - Nowt - parents visiting
S - Testing finger at AW Stockport. Very slow warm-up and worked my way through the grades. Finished up doing some of the "V5" circuit in a controlled/static style. Feels like progress on the finger front, but wrist started hurting, especially on undercut moves.
Daniel Heath - on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes:

Finally went climbing yes!!!


M-TCS, good progress on 8a circuit (just doing working it as two halves) Repeaters on pockets and 3 fingers.
T-Press ups
W-S Climbing trip with Uni mate. Ticklist Below.
S-Foundry, happy to onsight a 7a and 7a+

Great Orme:
6C+ Flash
7a+ OS

Gogarth:
Lighthouse arete at night in terrible conditions, very adventurous

Tremadog:
Seconded E1, E2
Fingerlicker E4 OS, very happy to get this one clean. Such an amazing line and good for confidence for London Wall.

Rivelin:
I'm Back E4 OS
Brush Off E4 OS
Auto de Fe E4 Flash

Lawrencefield:
High Plains Drifter E4 Flash
Pool Wall E5 OS

First real E5 Onsight!
All in all a great trip. It was cool not to be bothered about getting all the routes in. We just did 2 or 3 a day, but they were really significant ones (for us).

Finally the training has paid off. I definitely feel lighter and fitter, which was handy for Fingerlicker especially. I should really sit back and appreciate that I wanted to climb outside for the last 6 months, and at last we were able to live out what we wanted to do.

Now I'm in a better mood to train again for the Easter. Several E5s at Millstone are still waiting!

Thanks Grubes
Dan
IainRUK - on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes: Thanks, it'll be interesting to see how he goes.. will he have a blog to follow?
Ali - on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes: Thanks Grubes! Had a really fun, but sadly not incredibly productive trip to Portland - conditions were not so great :-(

2013 plan:
Jan-mid Feb - Continue with current indoor volume and try and get at least two weekends (or days of weekends) in sport climbing. Tick a couple of 7as, or one 7a and a 6c onsight/flash. Run at least twice a week for up to an hour. FAIL :-(
mid Feb - beg March - have a super fab time in NZ :o)
March-May - Focus on building up running fitness and navigation skills for orienteering - run at least twice a week, with one of these being over an hour. Climbing wise, work on onsighting ability in 6s and getting back into the feel of trad with 1 or 2 weekends away.
June - September - Focus on trad climbing, getting out at weekends and building up to onsight E2. Maintain strength by bouldering indoors during week. Maintain running fitness and work on navigation if possible.
September/October-end year - Focus on onsighting and quick redpoints in Kalymnos, possibly try and get a 7b project ticked. Try and get a 7a flash and some 6c onsights. Do DNA. For remainder of year get back up to strength and focus on repointing. If I can get Something Stupid and Empire done that would be a bonus.

M - nothing
T - BMF - Tuesday sessions seem more hardcore than weekends...though perhaps just felt it due to day at work before. Hour of runs, pressups, situps, squat-thrusts, burpees, core etc in wind and a bit of rain. Felt knackered but good after
W - nothing
T - Biscuit Factory - not a bad session - did a few new problems and came off the last move of a great v5 twice - its more of a power move the shorter you are and I'm not quite getting the power.
F - 20min run - got out of bed a bit late (oops) but managed to get a quick run in before work
S - Portland - my usual warm up was wet, so jumped on a 6a+ (Rusty the Red Neck) and totally sandbagged myself by getting freaked out thinking about big falls and run outs. Got up it eventually totally after much faff and a lot of flash pump. Did too many cooks as second warm up then flashed the Cutting Edge (6c+) which was really nice. Hazel kindly stuck the clips in Modern Nightmare (7a) and I went up and had a nightmare on toprope - see below. Finished off day trying the crux section of the Vulcanites (7a) which was really fun - lowered off from second bolt (top looked damp).
S - back to Portland and everything was sopping! As it was my last chance to get out for ages, we tried to make the best of it. Decided to warm up on the only dry warm up - Too Many Cooks - which turned out not to be so dry... Holy Hand Grenade looked dryish apart from a streak running down the crux holds and its been on my list to do for a while so had a top rope go. Tried most of the moves but both crux sections were sopping and some of the rest was damp. Crux felt really hard, but I don't know how much of that was due to trying to avoid the damp.

So, failed dismally on my Jan/Feb targets, though to be fair that was more down to the weather and conditions than my psyche! Only made it out one weekend and conditions not really conducive to hard climbing, though was pleased with the 6c+ flash. Also not done so much running, but I count BMF instead of a run session so probably just about managed to keep that up (with exception of a really busy week at work).

Unfortunately it seems I have a real psychological aversion to stepped roof climbing... I'm not great at leading and falling anyway but generally on walls if I'm psyched and know what I'm doing I'll go for it. Roofs are another matter - I was on top rope on Modern Nightmare and all I could think about what getting to the top so I didn't have to do it again - I don't think that, mentally, I could ever force myself to take a fall or push out on that kind of route - my technique also goes completely to pieces, though I should have the strength to pull through no problem. The only wall which I've really led stepped roofs is Westway and I had exactly the same problem - I cannot bring myself to fall if falling means goin over the lip of the roof. I'm not really sure how to resolve this...mental aspects of climbing are soooo much harder to train than physical! :-(
biscuit - on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Great ticklist Dan.
After not seeing rock for a long time you've come back strong.
biscuit - on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to Ali:

I have the same issue.

Falling on vertical/slightly overhanging stuff is OK most of the time. Falling off a roof, or going over the lip as you say, feels much more out of control.

I think we both know the answer - fall off on purpose from slightly bigger increments.

Or realise there are plenty of amazing techy vertical climbs to go at ;0)
AJM - on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to Exile:

> QUESTION:
>
> Would 4x4s on the problems I have been using for power be the best way to start PE? How many sessions a week?

If the problems are easy enough for you to do 4x4s on they probably weren't hard enough to develop power in the first place ;)

On a more serious note, I've never really done them, tended to build my own circuits instead and things, but 2-3 grades down is the usual rule, but give a set a try and tweak from there - aim for failure right at the end basically. As for frequency, couple of times a week I think.

In reply to Daniel Heath:

Nice one on the E5... You don't have do some weird stuff on your trips away though! Gogarth at night is a minority interest I suspect...

In reply to Si dH:

Just across town. Landlord wants to sell here. Moving hopefully this weekend, just get it all out the way really, although I think we technically have a week where we will have keys to both but really just want that as contingency and tidying time.

In reply to Ali:

Roofs are always intimidating, the gear suddenly disappears when you're over the lip and it feels well spacey. Can't offer any real advice beyond getting back to the westway etc and just doing them more, but I know your pain, I really struggle committing to the unknown in that sort of position.
seankenny - on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks Mr Grubes.

M: 20 mins stretching.
T: 30 mins stretching.
W: Westway bouldering. Felt a bit rubbish and tweaky, but worked V5/6 pink problem. Can do most of the moves okay, but can't link it. Tried another problem which is about V7/8 (apparently). Can't do crux move, surprisingly! 4x10 press ups, 3x10 reverse forearm curls.
T: 35 mins stretching
F: WW bouldering. Got to within last hard move on V5/6 project - very close! Tried a bunch of V3/4/5s in the Fridge too. Got close on some of them but nowhere near on others.
Sat: Nothing, working.
Sun: Climbing at WW with Ben Tye: 5+, 5+, 6a+, 6b, 6b+, 6c+ (the last two in quick succession), 5+. Did some bouldering circuits, roughly 15 moves, fairly hard with V2 problem to finish. Did about 6 with variable rests, then a break, then another couple of goes but was powered out on the last moves.

Not a bad week. I had hoped to go running on my days not climbing, but didn't feel great so just did stretching instead. Shoulders feeling better as a result and generally it makes me feel good, even tho I'm not 100% sure how useful it is for climbing! Guess I ought to do some stemming routes or something.

Made an attempt at AnCap circuits today, not sure how on the money I am, I think they need to be really really hard sequences right? Anyhow it was fairly hard and I ended up running right out of power, is this the effect I'm looking for?
seankenny - on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Good work Daniel!


> Gogarth:
> Lighthouse arete at night in terrible conditions, very adventurous
I'm liking this. Kinda old skool fun :))



> Fingerlicker E4 OS, very happy to get this one clean. Such an amazing line and good for confidence for London Wall.
Great stuff, how did you find this one? It's a dream route of mine!


JimmyKay - on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to Dan H:

Bloody hell bud, good effort!

So I've sprained my thumb pretty bad. Drunkenly falling over last night. Fingers crossed the swelling goes down asap!! What a dick!! haha.

M-Nothing.
T-Session at BBC. Fingerboard. Pockets. Isolated front and back 2.
W-Nothing
T-Hard session at BBC. Ended up doing v4-6 circuits (3 different ones ~ 10-15 problems each) with 7 then 10 push ups between problemss. Only rested between circuits.
F-5-a-side football
S-Felt absolutely spanked from Thursday still, squeezed in a quick v4-5 circuit at BBC and then went to the pub. Drank steadily from 1pm to 6pm and then much less steadily until 2am.
S-Felt horrible. Just about recovered. Feeling sorry for myself about my thumb, but it was self-inflicted. Guess I'll have to work core a little bit more this week instead. Going to try it out down the wall tomorrow evening and assess the damage.

It's going to be a hard week at school this week - however I'm safe in the knowledge that my car is going to be park in Malesherbes this time in 2 weeks. YES. YEEEEES. YEEEEEEEEEEEEES.
JimmyKay - on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes:

Also, does anyone fancy sport climbing anywhere in the World during the easter holiday? 28th March -14th April. My Kaly trip has been postponed.

Skyscanner had flights to Mallorca for 60quid last time I checked.
Si dH - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Nice one on all those e4s and pool wall, youve certainly turned it on quickly with little outside mileage! Aweso.e trip. Im hoping to emulate you in a month or two...
Daniel Heath - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to seankenny:

The start groove was pretty awkward, but the finger crack was a dream.

Straightforward climbing on good finger locks. No footholds, so pushing against the crack with feet was quite pumpy. I nearly pumped out at the top bulge because it took me several attempts to place a good nut at the top.

Nothing too technical, just an endurance test I think!
annak on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes: cheers grubes.

A good week for me, apart from the shoulder thing.

M: Run 3.5 miles / 28:07. Cycle 6 miles.

Tu: Bouldering at the Biscuit Factory. Trying to do all of the tigers.

W: Run 4.1 miles / 35:31. Cycle 6 miles.

Th: Bouldering at the Biscuit Factory. Continued with tigers until I dislocated my shoulder. Still managed to do some easy stuff after, but it was sore.

F: Run 3.5 miles / 27:48. This is the first time I've gone below 8 minute miles, so pretty chuffed. Cycle 6 miles.

Sa: Rest day

Su: Run 10km / 51:28. Actually quite astonished about this - I decided to go for a long, easy run, selected my slower pace and set off. Ended up doing 10km in only one minute slower than my race at Richmond Park two months ago. This was slightly less hilly, or am I really that much faster now? Either way I'm happy. Iced my ankles when I got in, that seems to have helped.

This week: find out if I have a place in a half-marathon in October and start freaking out about training if I do... :)
And do some proper shoulder rehab.
Nomics4sale - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks grubes, yep got out on real rock on saturday, woop! Nice one with your tick list for the day :-)

In reply to Eagle River: Good going on the 7c repeat and 7b flash, crushing machine!!

In reply to Daniel Heath: That's an awesome route haul! you're a crushing machine too!!

in reply to Ali: Like others, I feel your pain. I tried a really steep indoor route on Thursday and got to the point where I would either have to clip or drop so I dropped off just cos I didn't want the extra rope out in case I fell off when clipping. When I got down I realised it was probably the safest indoor fall I would ever have taken! It just feels so wrong to be upside down trying to clip. As biscuit says I think we all know the answer ;-)

STG: V6 at boulderUK, 7b RP indoors
MTG: 7a or 7b in Spain in Feb, 7b in Spain in March
LTG: more E1s and look at E2 Summer 2013

Mon: nowt
Tues: new set at boulderUK, ticked a V5 and worked some others. Didn't get on a V6
Wed: nowt
Thurs: Kendal wall, RP 7a (2nd go), tried 2 other 7as (one of which was the steep roof climb), flashed 6c.
Fri: 11 mile trial run, 1,165m ascent, Thunacar Knott, Esk Pike, Bowfell and down the band from ODG.
Sat: Slate querries North Wales. real rock!! Didn't lead anything hard but followed Nik up some harder routes; a scary E5 slab which I couldn't even TR cleanly (3 goes!) and then a really nice E4.
Sun: 11.6 mile trail run, 1,060m ascent, Esk Hause, Thunacar Knott, Harrison Pike. Almost the reverse of Wednesday's run. Was going to go up Bowfell and back along Crinkle Crags etc but it looked a bit foreboding up there...

Good to get out on Saturday, my first day out on rock in 2013.

STILL not got on a 7b or V6.
pork pie girl - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to biscuit: i'm not the only only cardio bunny on here i see.. :o) .. good one :o)
ads.ukclimbing.com
pork pie girl - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to ally smith: you taping the finger and wrist up? (sure you are)
pork pie girl - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to Ali: head work is harder than the physical work... constant battle for me too... are you bouldering and top roping stuff to try and get stronger on steep ground as it might make you feel more confident when you come to leading on that sort of thing? i've spednt that last few weeks on steep boudler problems and have increased my strength quite alot... it still feels very hard but i went from struggling on v5 to almost finishing a v7 (it may've been a soft v7 .. don't know but iut tequired really intricate footwork.. looks of heal and toe hooking which i got completel absorbed in)... the new couple of v7s at the wall where i train are full of dyno moves onto tiny holds...so i'm knackered on those for sure.. there's a v6+ (interesting to see if the grade increases over the next week or two as alot of the lads are struggling to stick a pocket (second to last move... and i'm getting almost to the same point.. but seems to take me loads more effort... i sound like i'm giving birth.. they don't even breath)

Eagle River - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

The new leading ladder 7b at Stockport has your name on it (not literally, that'd be weird, but it should suit you).
grubes - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Great effort on the E4 and E5
Cant believe you didn't lead seams the same but seconded an E4 clean.
Luke Owens - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes:

Cheers Grubes!

STG - Font 7A and F7b
MTG - Font 7A+ and F7c
LTG - Font 7B+/7C and F8a

Monday - Beastmaker weakness session and 30 minute constant core workout
Slopers - 30 sec hangs one hand on 20 degree and one hand on the 35 degree, alternate hands x 3. Managed to hang the 35 's with both hands for 12 secs - previous best = 1 sec!!
Pinches - 3 x 30 secs - 13kg each arm
Back 2 - Feet on chair - 5 x 15 secs

Tuesday - Oswestry Wall - Ticked 2 - V5/V6 Greys, Flashed a V7 (Soft!?) and ticked a V7 in a couple of goes which included a dyno (anti-style!) Also ticked a "Hard" problem from the left over comp problems from last week that I couldn't even get close on in the comp. Did it first go today. Best wall session I've ever had - Extremely psyched!

Wednesday - Took the little one swimming (Rest)

Thursday - Max Weighted Hangs -
Progressive Set - 6kg - 9kg - 11kg - 10 sec hangs, 3 min rest between
Main Set - 12.5kg x 5 - 10 sec hangs 3 mins rest between - Personal Best!. Going to attempt 15kg on Monday!
30 Minute consistant core workout

Friday - Rest
Saturday - Working a F7b at the World's End called "Cigar's of the Pharaohs" great moves, seriously powerful climbing. Did all the moves and almost linked it all on top-rope (powered out on last hard move). Going to stick at this one very keen for the tick!
2 friends did it first redpoint one climbs 7c and other climbs 8a, reckoned hard 7b.

Sunday - Stretching (Rest) need better hip flexability.
Nomics4sale - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to Eagle River:
> (In reply to Nomics4sale)
>
> (not literally, that'd be weird,

arf arf :-)

Guess that means I should get on it. Should learn to keep my big mouth shut!

In reply to grubes:

yeah I know it's a bit pathetic. I'm keen to go back again now I've got my head round it a bit, maybe have a go at an E1 there. After having 2nded that E4 I was thinking an E1 wouldn't be too unrealistic. You've been on slate haven't you? I can imagine it's your kind of thing, scary run out slabs ;-) It deffo takes a couple of routes to get used to it. Not really like anything else.
grubes - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: yup love the quarries. Been twice
Lead seams the same found it really easy.
Also lead a loud of the sport up to 6a+ ish in australia.

I am really keen for these routes
Looking the tube: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=201
A grand day out link up: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=210648
Red and yellow .. : http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=6608
Eros: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=6610
Pull my daisy: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=6611
Comes the dervish: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=8770
Nomics4sale - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes:

Most of those are bold run out slabs!! Look good though... I'd be happy with Looning the tube, not sure I'd chose a slate E2 or E3 as my first. Why not though I suppose? The climbing's pretty solid.

Sport routes definitely a less scary proposition.
Ally Smith on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:
I am taping the finger, but not sure it'll do anything as i think its a flexor tendon injury and not a classic A2 pulley i've twanged.

Although saying that, i got a very strange click in my palm whilst massaging it and i suspect i might have mis-located a bone/tendon guide in the palm instead of damaging the tendon. (Poor knowledge of hand anatomy - is this possible?)

Wrist is a long standing injury that re-occurs each time i have a break from climbing. It'll be fine in a week (fingers crossed).

Anyhow, inspired by you i shall be upping the cardio this week. The ankle needs to looked fecked before the ultrasound scan, so i might even go for a run!
grubes - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:
there is a bit of a theme in the routes I am psyched for I will give you that.

I am also keen for Cemetary gates, something stupid, some orme stuff and a few classics.
Nomics4sale - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes:

Cemetary Gates looks awesome, Cenotaph Corner too... Something stupid, hmm, malham fingery crimpy sequency hell...
pork pie girl - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to ally smith: i find putting a thin piece of tape round my wrist really helps.. i've had a permanent lump betwen the tendons for the last couple of years (use about cm wide piece and tape it tightly) finger on same had sore too.. ring finger between the second and last knuckle... don't think taping helps really.

got on ye bike...on the hills.. burn loads of energy without injury (unless you fall off on the down hill sections!!??)
pork pie girl - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: i'll second that re SS ay malham.. gave me a nice dose of carpal tunnel sydrome for the duration of the time i worked it before the red point...but i'd pulkled tendons before this .. so i think fingery undercuts on it just aggravated it even more
Nomics4sale - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

nice! and you're going back for more! Got to admit I don't get very inspired by Malham. I can't even work out the lines from below most of the routes. You seem pysched for it, despite the pain. Must be good climbing...
pork pie girl - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: i did one of my first 7as that last summer and felt a mix of intimidated, crap, dread, fear but also excitement... i am fairly new to sports climbing and saw malham as one of teh places i needed to go for my induction... i've only done some of teh shorted intense routes on teh right hand side... i have been advised and encourage to get on soem of the longer stuff on the left and alos have a go at silly things like raindogs!!! which was almost comical when i did get raindogs as i slumped on the rope after every move but then on reflection thought well at least i could do most of the moves... and it didn't rip my fingers up like something stupid.

i know what you mean by the lines... but i sort of feel more at ease there having bee there quite a bit.. i still feel crap, frightened and a right novice (because it seems like everyone there just cruises up stuff that i get my backside kicked on) i figure that i have invested quite a bit of time there just getting used to the surroundings .. once i'm used to the style of climbing again i think it's worth more of my time.

i plan to go and have a look at kilnsey this summer too... hoping i'll do a bit better on the steeper starts (because of my winter efforts trying really hard on steep bouldering) in comparison to my feeble efforts on steep routes at other places last year.

where abouts floats your boat in the dales?
Nomics4sale - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

yeah it probably gets better at malham the more you go. I only go every now and then and every time I go I have to rework the moves on the same routes. Routes which everyone else seem to cruise!

I spent a bit of time at Trollers Gill last year, it's pretty much an all weather crag. You should have a go at onsighting Jim Grin if you go, it's very onsightable compared to most of the yorkshire sport routes I've been on.

I'm quite keen to go to Kilnsey this summer too. I've never been but it looks good.

I went to have a look at Chapel Head scar a few weeks ago, the routes there look good. It's supposed to be hard for the grade though. And I think there's a bird ban till July.
biscuit - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Chapel Head Scar is an awesome place.

Best limestone crag in the UK - in my humble opinion.

Yes some routes are a bit stiff at the grade but many of them climb brilliantly

Get there , it's nearer than Malham just off the M6
Interstellar Overdrive 6b
Route of all evil ( if you like longer routes ) 7a+
Up town/half life - both
6c
Wargames - 7a+. Classic
Mangoustine Scatouflange 7a
And of course the amusingly named Tufa King Hard 6c+

Lots to go at above that as well but i never did any of those.

There used to be an on line topo somewhere and it's in the lakes selected guide
mrchewy - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes: I love the quarries too, just need to get there more. My first E1 will be Seams this Same, later this year. I've decided. Your wishlist there could be mine.

Seconded Cemetary Gates in the summer - one pitch and as it was a day after Gogarth, I was a lot knackered and took my first falls whilst seconding. Frustrating as I know I could have managed it quite cleanly. Lovely route, really is. Abbed down past Cenotaph Corner and that just looks hideous at the top.

Dale is psyched for Left Wall this year - I need to get some mileage in and be stronger, better at jams too and hopefully I can second him.

You do seem to have similar tastes in routes to me - just a step or two ahead in terms of skill and certainly leading experience.
grubes - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to IainRUK:
Okay just checked with him.
He says he probably won't have time to blog. He is going to do his updates by twitter.
biscuit - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:
> (In reply to biscuit) i'm not the only only cardio bunny on here i see.. :o) .. good one :o)

It's enforced cardio not voluntary. After June it will be dropped like a hot rock ;0)
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mrchewy - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath: Stuff the E5 onsight - good work on Gogarth at night! Must have been some feeling abbing in in the dark. The Arete isn't too hard but getting down to it with the waves crashing in the moonlight... ace, really ace!
grubes - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: Argh don't mention Jim Grin!!!!
mrchewy - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes: Thanks Grubes. Can't help with those weeks, sorry.

Medial ligament in the left knee is tweaked. Old tear on it and the physio isn't optimistic I'll make the Rat Race in May. Gutted. So a big rethink of training needs to happen.

Mon - Exhibition in Holland.
Tue - Physio. That was painful!!! Fingers and arm session.
Wed - Total rest. As instructed.
Thu - Fingers and arms session. 50 pressups total in the evening.
Fri - Rest knee.
Sat - Work. Home within the hour, knee totally unstable and didn't want to damage it.
Sun - Rest knee. 55 pressups total.

Can just manage a set of 4 finger repeaters on the easy holds, tried 3 finger and have tweaked one. Idiot. Trying to get better at pullups. Using the rings too, getting horizontal with feet on wall and doing pullups. Bit unstructured but should help as I have no confidence in my lock off and pulling strength.

So trying to make the best use of the rest my knee needs to heal. Hopefully top rope some slabs nest week, physio thinks maybe.

Crap start to the year but I'll finish this episode stronger. Mono pullups seem years away!
Nomics4sale - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Just a shame it's bird banned till July! Fingers crossed I'll get up there at some point. One of my semi-regular climbing partners is keen too so it might actually happen. Will take your tick list for inspiration!
Nomics4sale - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes:

Sorry! You should get on it again though. You'll be stronger now, tick it in a day no problem.
biscuit - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

NNFN !

I did my anterior cruciate about a decade or so ago and it gives me grief nowadays. I didn't have a full repair done as the surgeon said the recovery would be quicker and it would be fine.

Just over the last few weeks in particular it's been really sore and i am getting related pain in my hip.

We're there any signs that you look back on now and realise were pre cursors or was it a single incident that re tore it ?

Keep a good attitude and get better quick.
mrchewy - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to biscuit: Thanks. Yeh - it wasn't happy but work meant I had to keep going and it went in Holland. I was also stuck on a move on the roof down at the gym, couldn't quite catch a hold with my hand as I came round the lip, did it over and over till I got it BUT it meant using a drop knee repeatedly, pretty sure that didn't help.
Surprised myself tho, I'm normally positive anyway but I'm seriously viewing this as an opportunity to get stronger up top.

The physio (who does the UK Juniors) said I'd be okay to top rope easy slabs - so it may be a trip to the slate quarries is in order. Not that I want to have a look at that 7a target route, oh no.
Jamming Dodger on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes: A slight improvement on last week.
Lost half a stone recently so need to keep the momentum up with that and shift a bit more.
Monday and Tuesday: Nothing
Wednesday: 28 miles bike
Thursday: 28 miles bike
Friday: 28 miles bike
Saturday: 2 mile walk (wooo)
Sunday: Nothing. Unless 10 (proper) pressups count as exercise.

Goal for next week: 4 x 28 mile rides, one longer weekend ride (will see whats on offer with my club) and perhaps even a swim.
NO CRISPS!
Ali - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to pork pie girl, biscuit & AJM: I'm more than strong enough to do the moves on this particular route - its on jugs and I was on a top rope so not pumped.... it just still totally freaked me out! I know the 'best' thing to do is to practice falling but at the moment, I can't even contemplate that - not even on a top rope which is saying something! When indoors if I know for definite I can do the move I'll do it, but if there's any doubt I can't. and unfortunatly Westway is the wrong side of London so haven't been over there since the summer. I'm not quite sure how to solve this if I can't even bring myself to let go :-s
NMN - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks Grubes.

Got going again once I had got Jan 31st work deadline out of the way.

Running goals:
Snowdon Race - 1h 35m.
Edale Skyline - 4h.
Ben Nevis Race - 2h 20m.
Wasdale - get round.

STG:
Get out climbing again & regularly onsighting VS / HS.
MTG:
Push trad grade.
LTG:
Lead a tough E1.


M - nothing.
T - nothing.
W – nothing.
T – nothing.
F – am: Indoor routes.
F - pm: 7.04m trail run, 709ft.
S - 6.04m trail run, 706ft.
S - 4.56m trail run, 619ft.
pork pie girl - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: haven't climbed at CHS yet . just got the guide tho so looking forward to that.
went to trollers last spring with eagle river and kept falling off some 7a+ that felt pretty run out to me (to the right of JG bur with a variation to that went left not right... felt like each fall took about 5 mins until i stopped... and my language was very colourful... FG looks a good route though
didn't go there again though as i needed to be contacted at any point (by parents as dad was terminally ill) and there's no phone signal there.
useful on 05 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes:

This Week (WC 28/1/2013):
M: weights circuits, 12 reps, 6kg (building up)
T: 1 hr run (5.75mi UT2) which actually took 57 minutes!
W: Bouldering at Plas Power, Wrexham after climbing partner cancelled
-> Worked out half of the room traverse including the overhanging sections, so happy! Arms a bit tired, though.
Th: - Long drive home
F: - Daughter time
Sa: - Daughter time
S: 1hr run around Newbury (UT2)

--
Previous Week (W/C 21/1/2013):
M: Weights circuits, 11 reps, 6kg
T: Nothing (working late)
W: Liverpool Awesome Walls: 5 5+ 6a 6a 6a+ 5+ 6a+ 6b(fail)/6a 5+ (9 climbs)
Th: Climbing @ The Beacon: This was a bad idea because I was too tired from yesterday! Did 5c, failed 6a (moved to 5c), failed 6a (big fall practice!)
F: Rest day
Sa: Snowy solo walk in the Carneddau (10 miles, 1100m ascent/descent).
Su: Rest day

--
Apart from that, I've bought a Beastmaker 1000 for training either at home (on the weekends when I can't get out) or in the hotel during the week (sounds grander than it is).

Goal Updates:
STG
---
* Hands now ok, able to train without tape (although still sometimes using it).
* Keep increasing weights: next week, repeat the 10x7kg session (it was hard this week!)
* Maybe do a body-weight circuit instead of free-weights.
* Keep attacking those 6bs
* Keep doing the wall pyramids
* Up minimum number of routes per wall session to 11.

MTG
---
* Weight loss: Not losing, but getting leaner: 79.6kg, 17.1% fat

LTG
---
* Not ventured into tradding outdoors yet, given the recent weather...
Nomics4sale - on 05 Feb 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

I think the trollers route you were on is barguest direct. I've TRed it a couple of times but wasn't that inspired to try leading it. My mate took some big lobs on it too, she was a bit spooked and sacked it off. Yeah no phone signal, not surprising really it's steep both sides.
kylieo on 05 Feb 2013
Thanks grubes.

STG (by summer): don’t get injured
Redpoint 7a indoors
Climb something in the V4-V6 circuit
Lose ˝ stone (seem to be heading in the wrong direction right now!)

MTG (during summer): don’t get injured
Redpoint 7b (If Dave MacLeod can climb 8c outdoors and only 8a indoors maybe I can do 7b after only 7a after all)

M - Double dips - warm-up then 6b,6b,6b+,6b+,6c,6c. Each route twice. The 2 6cs were the ones I redpointed last week so I was pleased to get them both clean first go though I fell off both the second time.
T - Conditioning and fingerboard - I am rubbish on the fingerboard but it's nice to know there's plenty of chance for improvement there.
W - Bouldering - worked moves on hard problems, no problems completed but I did get some individual moves.
T - Mixed session - warm-up then got on a 6c+ I'd been recommended. It was a roof route but easy up to the roof and with a hands-off rest so you hit the roof fully recovered. I flashed it! I've never climbed 6c+ indoors before. Pulled the rope and repeated it for good measure. Tried a 7a on toprope but I couldn't get the last 2 moves. The penultimate move was a cross-through which is a move I always really struggle with. Finished myself off with 6c,6c,6c,6b+ leads back to back, fell off a lot.
F-S - nothing, helping with a house move.

I noticed talk of fear of falling recently, over this winter I've been not clipping the chains so long as it's safe. This results in a lot of fall practise every session and has done wonders for my head. Not sure how well it will transfer outdoors, I'll have to wait and see.
mrchewy - on 05 Feb 2013
In reply to kylieo: Nice work on the 6c+
Joughton on 05 Feb 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath: Amamzing week Dan, great effort! I am both jealous and amazed that you managed to get out and get so much good stuff done with such bad weather, you're looking in shape for onsighting London Wall! I'm pretty psyched for Pool Wall but thought it looked rather bold, how is it? Thought you'd crush High Plains Drifter...
mrchewy - on 05 Feb 2013
In reply to Joughton: Just noticed you're in the top ten Trad Global rankings on 8a - good work! My mate made number 2 last summer, ahead of Honnald but he's hardly done any trad since and has dropped right down.

pork pie girl - on 06 Feb 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: yes it was that route... i didn't have a conversation with about it at moughton nab last summer did i? .. just that I met someone who said that her mate (a lass) had lobbed off it loads and frightened herself. we'd been talking about a 7a+ at moughton nab i;d just done... htink it was called middle age rage or something.. (i might be talking boll***s of course)
Nomics4sale - on 06 Feb 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

Hello, yes, that was me I think. I only had one day at Moughton last year and I remember chatting to someone about which were the quality routes there. I was looking for a 6c to try and onsight (got it 2nd go in the end). No doubt I'll run into you again, esp if you go to Chapel Head or Kilnsey. Gimme shout if you want a mid week belay. Or weekend. I'll be trying to get out on dry days if I can.
Daniel Heath - on 06 Feb 2013
In reply to Joughton:

Great work with the 8a mate. And thanks for the encouragement. High plains felt straightforward but my legs got tangles in the rope on the last moves. (will put vid on youtube sometime soon).

Pool was great. Just one crux really.
I thought the gear was very good, but I think I was lucky to borrow a particular brand of cam that fitted really well. The "bold sprint" according to the guidebook, was relatively easy after the crux.

Don't think I blew your onsight with those words, get on it and good luck :)

London wall is still enticing, but White wall and Jermyn St will be first. I see no reason to rush while I can enjoy all the other great routes there!

Thanks Mr Chewey, Si and everyone else for your kind words.
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pork pie girl - on 06 Feb 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: ah right, thought it would be too much of a coincidence. which 6c did you do?


i'm working part time from the beginning of may onwards, so off thursdays and fridays (and weekends) i'll be out as much as possible... wet days too... under the malham umbrella
Nomics4sale - on 06 Feb 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

Ah yes well I'm not that keen on Malham so maybe I won't run into you! I normally have Thursdays and Fridays off too (sometimes I change it) so if you are looking to climb somewhere other than malham...
AllyBee on 06 Feb 2013
In reply to grubes:

Ooops, completely forgot to do this on Sunday - sorry I'm so late!

Anyway, I didn't get quite as much done this (last) week as I wanted to because I ended up working late Monday to Thursday, but I was quite pleased I still managed to do three climbing-related things. They were all short sessions, only one of them was actual climbing and none of them were fall training, but last-year me wouldn't have done anything...

M: nothing
T: nothing
W: nothing
T: nothing
F: Took a longer-than-I-really-should-have-done lunch break and did 50 mins of bouldering at Redpoint. Did all of the orange (second easiest) circuit problems without resting in between, then tried some of the next circuit up - managed one second go and was making progress with some others.
S: 10 min feet-on hanging on Beastmaker moving hands between the small rails, two finger pockets and slopers.
S: 2 x 10 mins as above with 10 mins rest.
pork pie girl - on 06 Feb 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: my plan is to do one or two sessions at malham a week and another two sessions at other crags so there's definately scope to climb at other places... kilnsey is somewhere i fancy if i can get my A hole up the steep starts!!!
(malham is a good option for rainy days.. and did keep me climbing quite a bit last year.. fingers crossed for a drier summer though!!!)
Nomics4sale - on 07 Feb 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

Kilnsey, now you're talking!!
pork pie girl - on 07 Feb 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: ok.. start tick list then... i've no idea as needed to loo at what's on offer but it's somewhere i aspire to climb.. that frankie comes/goes to kilnsey (whatever it's called) sounds horrendoulsy run out .. eagle river can confim that.. so i'd like to avoid that sort of set up
Eagle River - on 07 Feb 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

It's run out but soooo good. The climbing on it is brilliant.
If you can do the first few moves of ground effect that could be a good project.
pork pie girl - on 07 Feb 2013
In reply to Eagle River: the first few moves steep stuff? it's only got a bolt every 5-6 metres though!!!
Eagle River - on 07 Feb 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

Yep, steep start for ground effect.
I may have exaggerated how run out Frankie is to sound mega-brave. It's not that bad, the climbing is so continuous between the rests you wouldn't want to stop to clip in anyway.
But again, it all depends if you can do the start which is pretty burly and harder for the short.
Joughton on 07 Feb 2013
In reply to mrchewy:
> (In reply to Joughton) Just noticed you're in the top ten Trad Global rankings on 8a

It's ridiculous isn't it? There's no way I'm even close to being in the top ten trad climbers in Britain, I guess it's just because most trad climbers are too cool and non-competitive to both with stuff like that. Nontheless it's a nice ego boost!

Joughton on 07 Feb 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath: You must be strong if you found HPD straightforward, I found the crux to be so powerful! Let me know when you put ithe video up, I'd interested to watch...

Cheers, vague beta so I retain the O/S but very useful - it's good to know I can get on it without being too worried.

I'd be patient with LW, just because you obviously have the potential to onsight it soon but it would be a shame to get on it rashly after all the preparation, and let me know how you get one with White Wall!
Daniel Heath - on 07 Feb 2013
In reply to Joughton:

Here it is.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BPuos4Tv840

The crux was actually very messy. I tried to be all tidy but then I wrapped my leg around the rope.
biscuit - on 08 Feb 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:

You held on well there Dan.

Nice climbing.
Ali - on 09 Feb 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath: Good effort!
mrchewy - on 10 Feb 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath: That was made to look pretty comfortable.

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