/ The very early threaded out machine nuts
Still pushing my research on the Nuts’ Story further and further, I would be most interested to know in which club journal, climbing magazine or mountaineering book the using of machine nuts or threaded out machine nuts as a protection was mentioned for the very first time.
I was very excited when I found the mention of “artificial chockstones” in the excellent “Rock for Climbing” by C. Douglas Milner published in 1950, but I can’t believe that Morley Wood used a “metal artificial chockstone” during the historical ascent of Piggott’s Climb on Clogwyn du'r Arddu… I guess that, in this case, “artificial” means “because it was not there…”
Thank you very much for your interest in my request.
To the early writers, the term "artificial chockstone" would usually mean a stone or pebble which they had carried up themselves and placed in a crack, as distinct from a natural chockstone which was there as a result of geology.
In the 1950s the use of artificial chockstones would have been widespread, but Morley Wood clearly thought the fact that he used one made of metal was sufficiently unusual to be worth mentioning.
Elsewhere on the site
Nuts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. Initially made from... Read more
Pete Whittaker has flashed the 32 pitch route Freerider 5.12d on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley over three days,... Read more