/ The very early threaded out machine nuts

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nutstory - on 04 Feb 2013
Bonjour,

Still pushing my research on the Nuts’ Story further and further, I would be most interested to know in which club journal, climbing magazine or mountaineering book the using of machine nuts or threaded out machine nuts as a protection was mentioned for the very first time.
I was very excited when I found the mention of “artificial chockstones” in the excellent “Rock for Climbing” by C. Douglas Milner published in 1950, but I can’t believe that Morley Wood used a “metal artificial chockstone” during the historical ascent of Piggott’s Climb on Clogwyn du'r Arddu… I guess that, in this case, “artificial” means “because it was not there…”
Thank you very much for your interest in my request.

Stephane Pennequin
m0unt41n on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to nutstory: Have you looked through "Invisible on Everest" although that just refers to John Brailsford 1960's nuts.
nutstory - on 05 Feb 2013
In reply to m0unt41n: I was at the launch of M. Parsons & M. Rose's book "Invisible on Everest" in May 2003, and John Brailsford was the "guest star" over there.
Howard J - on 05 Feb 2013
In reply to nutstory:
To the early writers, the term "artificial chockstone" would usually mean a stone or pebble which they had carried up themselves and placed in a crack, as distinct from a natural chockstone which was there as a result of geology.

In the 1950s the use of artificial chockstones would have been widespread, but Morley Wood clearly thought the fact that he used one made of metal was sufficiently unusual to be worth mentioning.

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