/ 4x4 advice
No more than 1min rest between each rep, and however long it takes for full recovery between each set.
I would say
No rest between reps, just the time it takes to jump off and get back on.
Rest the same amount of time between sets as it takes to complete a set
I'm with Vinny. What you're describing isn't a classic 4x4.
What I've been doing is a comblination of the above - dropping off and getting straight back on, but then leaving it 5 - 10 minutes ish between sets.
If I leave shorter between sets won't I be in effect training endurance? (I'm not sure I could leave less time on the difficulty of problems I'm doing as I'm pretty shot after each set, and rep three and four are often touch and go.)
So the 4x4 part of my training session should only be taking 15 minutes ish total?
See Robbie Phillips training blogs below...Part 3 describes 4x4s, typically used for endurance. Part 4 describes Power Endurance, where he talks about 3x3s....but the same technique is used...just on harder problems.
That's route 4x4s! And it says they should be done back to back.
In reply to Exile:
That doesn't sound far off yeah. 16 problems with effectively a 1:1 climb:rest time at 30s per problem...
Thanks all - so need to carry on doing what I'm doing but shorten the rest time between sets as I get fitter. Great!
It says just enough time to jump off, chalk up, and get back on...so I'd say "no more than 1 min" is a pretty fair max time between reps.
To clarify re "route 4x4s", this was a lazy way of differentiating between "route 4x4s" which are an aerobic training exercise and "boulder 4x4s" which are a power endurance exercise.
You can obviously do either on either - I often replace 4 boulder problems with a route and do 4-5 laps with short rests as power endurance training or do laps rfound a boulder for aerobic training.
So, given the main part of the session is only 15 minutes should you have a good rest, (say 15 - 20 minutes,) and then repeat or should the session be so hard that this isn't an option?
I think the suggestion in self coached climber is to do a couple of sets, and once you can do a couple of sets in a session to try to step the difficulty up.
I've always found a good 4x4 leaves me knackered, but perhaps my fitness isn't that good. It's surprising how little time you need to really do yourself in! Two in a session would seem to be a good aim, you could always make the second one a bit easier...
Right then, build up to two lots of 4x4 in a session with each problem rep being drop off the problem and start again with no more than 1.5 minutes ish rest between each set - 20 minutes rest and light climbing between each 4x4. Add in warm up before hand core and cool down after. Sound good?
Sounds about right. I've been using a wall that has no marked up problems so have made up my own while training power, (I would guess they are up to V5 ish.) Out of the nine I made up I've just started using the easiest four, but at the moment 1 4x4 on these leaves me pretty shot.
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