/ taxus conditions?
bump - does anyone have any idea what kind of conditions Taxus is in?
What is bump????
he fell off
So does anyone have any information on conditions in the North-East corrie please? Or would care to give me an educated guess as to conditions there?
I remember the bottom straight off belay being ice and the crux of the route, a couple of screws should see you okay here. I think I used one or two on the belay and one on the pitch, it eases off after the initial steep ice. We had plenty of ice for the bottom pitch, 3-5m of ice and above that I can't recall placing a screw. I haven't done the icefall finish. We had a beautiful day and I'm still hacked off that I forgot my camera that day.
It's as well protected as most easy gullies, ie not very! The rock is pretty crappy and you have to work a bit to get anything in it, even for belays. The ice steps are not sustained and I wouldn't expect to belay on screws, so 2/3 is probably OK. I'd also take pegs and some turf gear.
Elsewhere on the site
This streamlined, midweight thermal layer has an incredibly speedy moisture wicking ability and dries ultra fast if it gets... Read more
The B.D.V. — short for Black Diamond Vertical — jacket and pants are Black Diamond’s most versatile climbing... Read more
In tonight's Friday Night Video, we see Alex Honnold soloing Heaven 5.12d in Yosemite Valley. The route starts 3000ft above the... Read more
So, just what is the Petzl RocTrip? Every year French climbing manufacturer pick a sport climbing area that has potential... Read more
October 21, 2014 – Textile Exchange, a global nonprofit dedicated to sustainability in the apparel and textile industry,... Read more