/ taxus conditions?
bump - does anyone have any idea what kind of conditions Taxus is in?
What is bump????
he fell off
So does anyone have any information on conditions in the North-East corrie please? Or would care to give me an educated guess as to conditions there?
I remember the bottom straight off belay being ice and the crux of the route, a couple of screws should see you okay here. I think I used one or two on the belay and one on the pitch, it eases off after the initial steep ice. We had plenty of ice for the bottom pitch, 3-5m of ice and above that I can't recall placing a screw. I haven't done the icefall finish. We had a beautiful day and I'm still hacked off that I forgot my camera that day.
It's as well protected as most easy gullies, ie not very! The rock is pretty crappy and you have to work a bit to get anything in it, even for belays. The ice steps are not sustained and I wouldn't expect to belay on screws, so 2/3 is probably OK. I'd also take pegs and some turf gear.
Elsewhere on the site
This Winter Conditions page gives a summary of what is being climbed at the moment, what is 'in' nick and what the prospects are... Read more
Rock shoes stink – let’s face it. Boot Bananas are the perfect way to fight the funk and keep them fresh. They help... Read more
Tonight's Friday Night Video features the Norwegian town of Rjukan, once believed to be the home of the world's tallest... Read more
Perhaps the perfect Xmas gift for the climber in your life... Wild Country's Crack School has two of the worlds best crack... Read more
With four photos in this week's top ten, and a UKC gallery of stunning images we thought it was time we had a chat with... Read more
F ounded in 1993, Mountain Hardwear are a pretty young mountaineering clothing and equipment manufacturer but are also one of... Read more