/ NEWS: Adam Ondra & La Dura Dura - 9b+ - More Info

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UKC News - on 08 Feb 2013
Adam Ondra on La Dura Dura, 9b+, Oliana, 5 kbAdam Ondra has done it again - another 9b+ from the Czech superstar.

Here's more info on La Dura Dura and how it stacks up against the other hardest routes of the world...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67808

Mark Collins - on 09 Feb 2013
In reply to UKC News: I bet he's glad hes done that, I know I would be. Thanks for sharing.

I must admit that I don't know much about the route, but is the infamy stated by many websites reporting this, down to one individual having a go at it before the individual who bolted it, was ready to retire from it? I realise it might require war and peace to answer this fully, but I'm just interested in the type of conflict observed rather than the full details in this instance.
john yates - on 09 Feb 2013
In reply to Mark Collins:
Another fantastic little insight into the top end of sports climbing - and fantastic to watch how two climbers, with very different physiques, are able to operate at such a high level. Both men, however, have huge reserves of motivation and psyche to keep pushing back the limits. Amazing to watch.
ericinbristol - on 09 Feb 2013
In reply to Mark Collins:

According to Sharma, he was inspired by Ondra to get back on the route by watching Ondra on it. The worked it together, helping each other progress. Sharma went from thinking he had virtually no chance to being close to doing it.
jazzyjackson on 09 Feb 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Amazing!

Anyone know who does the tune at the beginning of the VIDEO: Adam Ondra making the first ascent of Chaxi Raxi (9b), Oliana, Spain!

Franz the Stampede - on 09 Feb 2013
In reply to Mark Collins:

Apologies for being momentarily too lazy to quote all the sources, but I believe the below is a quite factual summary

1 - (over two years ago) Sharma bolted the route, tried to work it, managed to do all the single moves but could not conceive himself linking the whole thing, wrote it off as unclimbable for him and made it an open project under the name La Dura Dura (check climbing.com interview "Sharma Half Life or summat")

2 - (fall 2011 or spring 2012?) Ondra comes around to Oliana and, with 9bs red pointed in as little as 3 days, asks for Chris for something really hard and Chris shows him the project. BUT seeing Adam linking some sections motivates Chris to try and guess what, before long he's having some good links too

3 - (late fall 2012) Adam is back in Oliana (with a proposed first 9b+ in the bag) in at least two different trips (before and after the La Sportiva bouldering comp in Stockholm) but can't do it. By the time he leaves, Chris is actually closer to the send than Adam. But with Adam gone, Chris loses motivation (check interview on 9b.ning.org)

4 - (Jan 2013) Two more trips by Adam (opening of a Montura shop in Italy in between) and finally the send comes.
ericinbristol - on 09 Feb 2013
In reply to Franz the Stampede:

Very informative, ta.
simes303 - on 09 Feb 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Is there a video anywhere? I'd love to see that...
johncoxmysteriously - on 10 Feb 2013
In reply to UKC News:

I think it's just 'infamous' for being hard. There's no controversy AFAIK.

jcm
Jonas Wiklund - on 10 Feb 2013
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: Or 'infamous' to those who think that it is good to be notorious?
progrupicola - on 10 Feb 2013
In reply to UKC News: Yesterday before leaving Oliana, Adam sent ''Fight or Flight'' one of the Sharma's 9b in haste fashion. In an earlier interview he had said about this 9b that,it was thousands of times easier than ''La dura..''
which it gives some insight about how hard it's the 9b+ realm, ranging from days to weeks of work for him... what a beast!
Mark Collins - on 10 Feb 2013
In reply to Franz the Stampede: Great, thanks very much for taking the time to reply.

I guess that counts as making a route infamous in the world of sport climbing. Seems that both individuals behaved very reasonably to me. I'd have thought the head line of Ondra climbs the hardest route in the World as impactful enough, without any infamous slant. Does something to belittle the achievement for me. Like its not good enough to climb the hardest route in the World, its got to be infamous as well. I wouldn't be surprised to see that kind of wording in the national press, but seems a bit out of place on climbing sites. I thought the infamy may apply to a hold being glued back on or something like that.
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cb_6 - on 07 Apr 2013
In reply to jazzyjackson:

Moth by Professor Kliq. The main track during the send is also by him, called Sacreligious. Both tracks are on Community Service II. He's awesome, I got into him through that video too!

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