/ Font tick list...
Second time I've been and will be looking around the 6's and early 7's.
Got a few ideas, but the more the merrier.
Plus a few more
Not sure about the quality of Le Nez, a couple of moves at most, flashed this and was very underwhelmed.
Lapin au Canard is a good roof problem softish 7a.
Le statique 6a+ is also pretty good, another suprising flash having heard much about it's awkwardness, satisfying though.
There is a brilliant arete up near the famous Duel, 6c+ eye of the needle, or some such name?.
Some high 6 / low 7 recommendations:
Le Toit du Loup - 6b
Hier Encore - 6b+
Duel dans la Lune - 6c (maybe 6b+)
Little Karma - 6c
Composition de Forces - 6c
Jo' Special - 6c
Le Voie Machaud - 6c
Cortomaltese - 6c+
L'Oblique - 7a
Jet set - 7a
Retour aux Sources - 7a
Le Coeur at Elephant 7a
Magic Bus at Buthiers 7b
Attention Chef d'OEuvre 7a
La Baleine - 7a This is amazing.
Big Jim - 6c
El Poussah - 7a This is amazing
Satan m'Habite debout - 7a (also gets 7b from a lower start.)
Holey Moley 7a
Good luck on Ben's Angle ;-)
Retour aux Sources is one of my all time favourite 7a problems and Tentation just nearby is also very good and often overlooked. Duroxmanie is just a perfect boulder problem and the direct at 7a is easy at the grade. Final recommendation would be L'egoiste at Apremont - a tricky 6c+
Cheers... Yer I can see a lot of time sat around at the bottom of Ben's Angle. One can hope though.
Thanks for the suggestions, this list has a lot of stuff to fall off of.
I don't think Angle Ben's is that bad at the grade. A lot of good suggestions above, La Baleine is amazing though quite hard. Duroxmanie a good choice. Toit du Cul de Chien is brilliant (and softish 7a). Jet Set is great.
A couple more:
El Poussif - Good but frustrating, not far from Angle Ben's
Mouton a 5 pattes
Mouton a 6 pattes
Joker - Has a reputation as a sandbag
A few to add to the list from the trip last week:
Pancras, 7a+ Mont Pivot
Bleau's Art, 7b Cuvier Rampart - really knacky one mover
Mortel transfert, 7b rocher souris - dyno
La fosse aux Ours , 7a 95.2. I really rated this problem. Really cool wall.
Test de Turing, 7a+ 95.2. Really cool slab
Gargantoit - Needs no introduction.
Oliver Twist, 7a+ Rocher Greau - Felt nails but has some really slick moves.
Osiris, 7b Les Mammouths
All very classy problems.
Oh and can I just remind people that Big Jim is possibly the best 6C in the world. Claim. Must must do.
Big Jim is on the list (and has been from the start!)
Cool list... might just be on the tough side, but you never know.
Don't bother with jet set, total gash..
As others have said;
Retour aux sources
All excellent and also see;
Duel dans la lune (near to retour and Tentation) - bloody brilliant.
Surplomb des frelons at RAS as in the topo in 'essential font...'
:oD Jet Set took about 3 hours the first time I did it! I've seen it fend off 8a climbers for a while too.
Some good suggestions above.
Ah, Plus Facile! next to Lapin au Canard is pretty soft for 7a+
L'Angle Ben's is a classic but pretty nails IMO I'd give it a miss and look at some of the others.
La Joker feels impossible until you suss out the move, amazing cross-through though. Match the gaston if you really need to, but the next hold works a lot better if you cross through to it with your left hand - it makes the last move a breeze! Love it!
Lapin Ou Canard is super soft for 7a, let alone 7a+!
I did Jet Set last Monday and actually quite liked it. La fosse aux Ours , 7a 95.2 is similar but different but with another dynamic move to the top which leaves you feeling like a hero.
I did say "Ah, Plus Facile! next to Lapin ou Canard is pretty soft for 7a+"
Agree that Lapin is pretty soft though.
Isn't Cul de Chien banned now due to a crack in the pedestal?
La Balafre is worth a look just for the top out, and Science Friction just behind it is a fairly low grade but superb.
Helicoptre for the fun of it
If memory serves (bit hazy) black number 14 at Elephant is fantastic and there's loads of good 6s and 7s around the place. Check out Dame Jouane just to wonder how it can ever be called a bouldering problem but the area might be very green and the landings aren't great.
The crack at cul de chien is on the base of the bilboquet boulder (the one that looks like a dog), this is a different boulder to the toit du cul de chien.
Jet set is ace.
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