/ Trango Big Bro Wide Crack Pro
I hadn't realised you could get them over here in the UK?
If I recall correctly, they're not CE rated, which means they CAN'T be sold in the UK.
Silo is not in the UK, perhaps he can get them in nearby spain.
Silo - Out of interest, let us all know where you end up getting them from.
I saw the pink/purple one of these for the first time in a shop here at the weekend (Bavaria). It looked interesting, I had a play with it and a chat with the shop assistant about it. I suspect they are less flexible than a cam of similar size - they look like they need a crack with the sides at just the right angle to each other, but I imagine in the right place they're great - in the end it is just a fat tube, so there's not a great deal to go wrong. I'm not sure I'd want to bounce around on one of them too much though, I could imagine if it didn't wedge itself in on the first loading, it might be able to twist and free itself... but that is more a gut feeling than any kind of experiment/experience. They are much lighter (and cheaper!) than a cam of the similar size - they're like a big hex for size and weight.
> If I recall correctly, they're not CE rated, which means they CAN'T be sold in the UK.
Unless things have changed they aren´t CE marked and therefore it is illegal to sell them in all of the EU, including Spain and Gibralter. I doubt anyone cares though!
Beta Climbing Designs Ltd
ive tried them (2 sizes) and would go with them if i did enough of that sort of climbing. like said above - they seem better than a cam when ideally placed. also easier to carry when you get into those sizes.
the spring powered thunk! action requires practice, as does the whole one-handed placement of them i think.
can get them in japan if anyones desperate. saw a set on monday. not cheap.
> I saw the pink/purple one of these for the first time in a shop here at the weekend (Bavaria).
Where? I'm not in the market for offwidth fetish gear, but I would expect a shop that stocks this sort of thing to be interesting in other respects too.
I've got a size 1 and 2 that I bought whilst on holiday in the US a few years back. Used for several years in the UK to protect wide cracks on some of the more 'traditional' mountain routes where you wouldn't want to carry a huge cam with you.
Not fallen on them though! You may want to brief your second on how to remove them though before you start climbing.
At travel and trek in Fürth, bei Nürnberg. It was a bit strange, they only had the one, but they also had some ball nuts and tri-cams. Slightly unusual for round here, it's mostly jjust sport climbing stuff, and endless Jack Wolfskin. The guy in the shop was pleasant and knowledgeable. I certainly took a mental note of the shop.
If you're based in the general vicinity, do shout if you fancy going climbing when the weather is a bit more favourable - I' always looking for new climbing partners, particularly since my last one just moved to Canada! I'm based just south of Nürnberg, so Frankenjura/Altmühltal are pretty easy for me to get to.
Oh, and please don't tell anyone in Fürth that I suggested that they're in Bavaria. Obviously I meant *Franconia* ;-)
I've used mine in the US and on grit. It fits wide offwidths or squeeze chimneys above the size of my biggest cam (top size Camelot). I've never fallen properly on it but it's given me confidence to go for stuff I never would have tried unprotected. They are awkward to place but you usually have an knee-bar or something in to have the time to adjust. Used it in the US and in the UK (on grit). US shops will sell and some will post to the UK. Mine was from Nomad Ventures in JT, a brilliant shop (cheap cam repairs as well!).
They are not CE rated so that may worry some folk but I'm less fussed as I know they work. My aliens are not CE rated either and Ive fallen on them a few times.
> If you're based in the general vicinity, do shout if you fancy going climbing when the weather is a bit more favourable
Thanks. I'm based in München and don't make it up to the 'jura as regularly as I would like to, largely due to Alps-obsessed partners. But I'll give you a shout when I do.
Thanks - that would be good. Being just south of Nürnberg myself, the Altmühltal might be a good half-way compromise. But only when it's stopped snowing!
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