/ Top 10 climbs in the world?
Anyone willing to stick their neck out and give a top 10 best trad routes in the world?
No idea, but moonlight buttress ( free)looks incredible. I wish I was good enough to go and try it!
Others like lotus flower tower and salathe wall have gotta be in with a shout? I'm basing this purely on hype and pictures!
Ooh er. Salathe? Fish or Tempi Moderni on the Marmolada?
Obviously I'm going by reputation / speculation / appearance from a distance here; I do not expect ever to do such things.
I had exactly this discussion with John Allen and Simon Horrox in around 1980 in Yosemite - sat under El Cap, and we decided after a few minutes that they would all be on Grit!
So by extrapolation the top 10 UK climbs are all on Grit? Sure, there are some good ones, but I wouldn't want to miss several Welsh/Scottish climbs off even that list.
I think on a global scale there's only going to be 3 UK routes max, especially when you consider the fact that there's a huge amount of free trad alpine style/big wall routes.
Two for consideration:
The Brandler Hasse
The Grand Wall
The Lotus Flower Tower wouldn't even make my personal top 10.
Half Dome Regular route
Figures on a Landscape
Fiesta de los Bisceps (Yes I know it's a sport route)
3 of the above routes I've done. 1 I've failed miserably on. 4 I want to have a bash at before I die. 1 I'll probably never get out to try and and one I'll never go near it ;-)
Figures on a landscape? The one in JT? Really?
One of the highlights of my 95 trip together with Levitation 29 (but that's a clip up)
My brother said that Figures OAL was one of the best routes he'd ever done, if not the best.
Where is Eternal Flame on that list?
West Side Story
This is a purely representative list. I've tried and failed to find anything as good anywhere else....
> I had exactly this discussion with John Allen and Simon Horrox in around 1980 in Yosemite - sat under El Cap, and we decided after a few minutes that they would all be on Grit!
It's possible that JA led some of the top 10
> ... and one I'll never go near it ;-)
Bachar Yarian by any chance?
Regular Route:Third Pillar of Dana
Energy Crisis:Wolfberg Cracks
Fiesta de los Biceps (La Visera):Riglos
Scenic Cruise:Black Canyon of Gunison
La Demande:Gorges du Verdon
North Face (Brandler Hasse):Tre Cime di Laverado
The Rostrum (aka Regular North Face Route) w:The Rostrum
Regular Northwest Face:Half Dome Northwest
The Casual Route:Longs Peak
Funny that, J2V, it'd be right at the top of mine!
> Funny that, J2V, it'd be right at the top of mine!
That would be a way more interesting thread Jon. I'll start one.
Ah well, we had a drama on it, so it's tainted for me. I did think the first half was forgettable though.
Yes, I knew your reason! And you're right that the first half is forgettable, but the second part... well it doesn't come much better.
> Yes, I knew your reason! And you're right that the first half is forgettable, but the second part... well it doesn't come much better.
Well, the bits of the second half I led had some nice finger cracks, filled with wet mud.
A granite slab in Yosemite/Toulumne
A roof at Arapiles
A pocket-puller in Verdon
A splitter at Red Rocks
A pebble-puller in Riglos or Monteora
A long, scrambly ridge (Matthes Crest or Nordkante?)
A long alpine big-booter
An intricate sea cliff crack in Pembroke or Cornwall
A solo on gritstone
A tufa-fest in Thailand
Everything. History is one of the major factors which attracts me to certain routes. When you read UKC sometimes the lack of historical interest get's you down sometimes.
> A granite slab in Yosemite/Toulumne
> A roof at Arapiles
> A pocket-puller in Verdon
> A splitter at Red Rocks
> A pebble-puller in Riglos or Monteora
> A long, scrambly ridge (Matthes Crest or Nordkante?)
> A long alpine big-booter
> An intricate sea cliff crack in Pembroke or Cornwall
> A solo on gritstone
> A tufa-fest in Thailand
Nice. Except RR is pretty rubbish for splitters. Indian Creek maybe...
It is a great route, possibly the best at JT but I wouldn't put it in the world's top 10. A bit like putting Diabeg Pillar in there.
My comment was directed towards the amount of bolts on the route, unless they have been removed it doesn't really qualify as a 'trad' route.
Gordon, what I said was I thought FOAL was one of the best routes *of its length and grade* that I had ever done.
West Face Cerro Torre (Ragni)
Prophecy of Drowning
Gervasutti Pillar (M Blanc du Tacul)
The Star Gate
In which case:-
NW Face Half Dome
Nabisco Wall - Cookie Cliff, Yosemite
Nerve Wrack Point - Tuolumne
Motorhead - Eldorado
Cassin Route - Piz Badile
Pichenibule - Verdon
Great Wall - Cloggy
Profit of Doom
Gob - Carnmore
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