/ Top 10 climbs in the world?

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Ian Wilson - on 13 Feb 2013
I was trawling the search results for a thread on this and so far haven't found one...

Anyone willing to stick their neck out and give a top 10 best trad routes in the world?
snoop6060 - on 13 Feb 2013
In reply to Ian Wilson:

No idea, but moonlight buttress ( free)looks incredible. I wish I was good enough to go and try it!

Others like lotus flower tower and salathe wall have gotta be in with a shout? I'm basing this purely on hype and pictures!

AlanLittle - on 13 Feb 2013
In reply to Ian Wilson:

Ooh er. Salathe? Fish or Tempi Moderni on the Marmolada?

Obviously I'm going by reputation / speculation / appearance from a distance here; I do not expect ever to do such things.
In reply to Ian Wilson:

I had exactly this discussion with John Allen and Simon Horrox in around 1980 in Yosemite - sat under El Cap, and we decided after a few minutes that they would all be on Grit!

Chris
ianstevens - on 13 Feb 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:

So by extrapolation the top 10 UK climbs are all on Grit? Sure, there are some good ones, but I wouldn't want to miss several Welsh/Scottish climbs off even that list.

I think on a global scale there's only going to be 3 UK routes max, especially when you consider the fact that there's a huge amount of free trad alpine style/big wall routes.
Jonny2vests - on 14 Feb 2013
In reply to Ian Wilson:

Two for consideration:

The Brandler Hasse
The Grand Wall

The Lotus Flower Tower wouldn't even make my personal top 10.
Enty - on 14 Feb 2013
In reply to Ian Wilson:

The Nose
Salathé
Astroman
Moonlight Butress
Brandler Hasse
Naked Edge
Bachar Yerian
Half Dome Regular route
Figures on a Landscape
Fiesta de los Bisceps (Yes I know it's a sport route)

3 of the above routes I've done. 1 I've failed miserably on. 4 I want to have a bash at before I die. 1 I'll probably never get out to try and and one I'll never go near it ;-)

E
estivoautumnal - on 14 Feb 2013
In reply to Enty:

Figures on a landscape? The one in JT? Really?

Enty - on 14 Feb 2013
In reply to estivoautumnal:

One of the highlights of my 95 trip together with Levitation 29 (but that's a clip up)

E
Gordon Stainforth - on 14 Feb 2013
In reply to Enty:

My brother said that Figures OAL was one of the best routes he'd ever done, if not the best.
TRip - on 14 Feb 2013
In reply to Enty:

Where is Eternal Flame on that list?
paul__in_sheffield - on 14 Feb 2013
In reply to Ian Wilson:

Dream/Liberator
Adjudicator Wall
Darius
Right Unconquerable
West Side Story
Hunky Dory
London Wall
Sunset Slab

This is a purely representative list. I've tried and failed to find anything as good anywhere else....
paul__in_sheffield - on 14 Feb 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:
> (In reply to Ian Wilson)
>
> I had exactly this discussion with John Allen and Simon Horrox in around 1980 in Yosemite - sat under El Cap, and we decided after a few minutes that they would all be on Grit!
>
> Chris

It's possible that JA led some of the top 10
jameshiggins - on 14 Feb 2013
In reply to Enty:
> (In reply to Ian Wilson)
> ... and one I'll never go near it ;-)
>
> E

Bachar Yarian by any chance?
Jim
WB on 14 Feb 2013
In reply to Ian Wilson: I made the below tick list to aspire to. They are all longer trad routes at a grade that is not impossible (and there are 12), but I would consider them some of the best in the world, if you like that sort of thing.


Astroman:Washington Column
Regular Route:Third Pillar of Dana
Energy Crisis:Wolfberg Cracks
Fiesta de los Biceps (La Visera):Riglos
Scenic Cruise:Black Canyon of Gunison
Motörhead:Eldorado
La Demande:Gorges du Verdon
North Face (Brandler Hasse):Tre Cime di Laverado
The Rostrum (aka Regular North Face Route) w:The Rostrum
Vestpillaren:Presten
Regular Northwest Face:Half Dome Northwest
The Casual Route:Longs Peak
John Dunne - on 14 Feb 2013
In reply to Ian Wilson: Dont forget the American Direct Petit Dru
jcw on 14 Feb 2013
In reply to jonny2vests: and Enty Brandler-Hasse. The Cima Grande or Buhlweg? Incidentally when you consider either of these routes are you judging their climbing quality in terms of the period around when they were put up (1958 in boots with a lot of artificial) or as modern free climbs? Or is it that they are simply the best routes on the great walls concerned?
jon on 14 Feb 2013
In reply to jonny2vests:
> (In reply to Ian Wilson)

> The Lotus Flower Tower wouldn't even make my personal top 10.

Funny that, J2V, it'd be right at the top of mine!

TRip - on 14 Feb 2013
In reply to jon:
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
> [...]
>
> [...]
>
> Funny that, J2V, it'd be right at the top of mine!

That would be a way more interesting thread Jon. I'll start one.
Simon Caldwell - on 14 Feb 2013
ads.ukclimbing.com
Jonny2vests - on 14 Feb 2013
In reply to jon:

Ah well, we had a drama on it, so it's tainted for me. I did think the first half was forgettable though.
jon on 14 Feb 2013
In reply to jonny2vests:

Yes, I knew your reason! And you're right that the first half is forgettable, but the second part... well it doesn't come much better.
Jonny2vests - on 14 Feb 2013
In reply to jon:
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
>
> Yes, I knew your reason! And you're right that the first half is forgettable, but the second part... well it doesn't come much better.

Well, the bits of the second half I led had some nice finger cracks, filled with wet mud.
JJL - on 14 Feb 2013
In reply to Ian Wilson:

A granite slab in Yosemite/Toulumne
A roof at Arapiles
A pocket-puller in Verdon
A splitter at Red Rocks
A pebble-puller in Riglos or Monteora
A long, scrambly ridge (Matthes Crest or Nordkante?)
A long alpine big-booter
An intricate sea cliff crack in Pembroke or Cornwall
A solo on gritstone
A tufa-fest in Thailand
Enty - on 14 Feb 2013
In reply to jcw:
> (In reply to jonny2vests) and Enty Brandler-Hasse. The Cima Grande or Buhlweg? Incidentally when you consider either of these routes are you judging their climbing quality in terms of the period around when they were put up (1958 in boots with a lot of artificial) or as modern free climbs? Or is it that they are simply the best routes on the great walls concerned?

Everything. History is one of the major factors which attracts me to certain routes. When you read UKC sometimes the lack of historical interest get's you down sometimes.

E
Jonny2vests - on 15 Feb 2013
In reply to JJL:
> (In reply to Ian Wilson)
>
> A granite slab in Yosemite/Toulumne
> A roof at Arapiles
> A pocket-puller in Verdon
> A splitter at Red Rocks
> A pebble-puller in Riglos or Monteora
> A long, scrambly ridge (Matthes Crest or Nordkante?)
> A long alpine big-booter
> An intricate sea cliff crack in Pembroke or Cornwall
> A solo on gritstone
> A tufa-fest in Thailand

Nice. Except RR is pretty rubbish for splitters. Indian Creek maybe...

estivoautumnal - on 15 Feb 2013
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

It is a great route, possibly the best at JT but I wouldn't put it in the world's top 10. A bit like putting Diabeg Pillar in there.
estivoautumnal - on 15 Feb 2013
In reply to Enty:

My comment was directed towards the amount of bolts on the route, unless they have been removed it doesn't really qualify as a 'trad' route.
jcw on 15 Feb 2013
In reply to Enty: Couldn't agree more. Thanks for the reply
John Stainforth - on 15 Feb 2013
In reply to estivoautumnal:

Gordon, what I said was I thought FOAL was one of the best routes *of its length and grade* that I had ever done.
pete johnson - on 15 Feb 2013
In reply to Ian Wilson:
Scenic Cruise
The Nose
Astroman
West Face Cerro Torre (Ragni)
Dream Liberator
Shibboleth
Prophecy of Drowning
Positron
Gervasutti Pillar (M Blanc du Tacul)
The Star Gate
Goucho on 15 Feb 2013
In reply to Ian Wilson: I presume they have to still be in existence/safely climbable - so no Bonatti Pillar or American Direct on the Dru?

In which case:-

Salathe Wall
NW Face Half Dome
Nabisco Wall - Cookie Cliff, Yosemite
Nerve Wrack Point - Tuolumne
Motorhead - Eldorado
Cassin Route - Piz Badile
Pichenibule - Verdon
Great Wall - Cloggy
Profit of Doom
Gob - Carnmore

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