/ gemini steep bit: how long?

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smithaldo - on 14 Feb 2013
Given the out there photo in the old nevis guide and the one Mike P put up recently I have always wondered how long roughly 'that' bit of gemini is as it's really hard to tell from the guides.

Anyone who has done it know?
vscott - on 14 Feb 2013
In reply to smithaldo: Depends on how it's accessed - if the smear is fully formed maybe approaching 10m from memory, but often accessed at approx half height by traversing in from the flake to the right (ice or mixed - small hooks).
paraffin on 14 Feb 2013
In reply to smithaldo:

Steep was 80 ft doing it direct, with one nut runner @ 50 ft and 130 ft to the belay.
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Mike Pescod - on 16 Feb 2013
In reply to smithaldo: It's not very long. If you traverse in from the right as recent ascents have done it's only about 20m. You can get good gear in the side of the big flake before getting onto the ice too.

The guy ahead of me got five ice screws in. I only hung on enough to get 2 in!

First time I did it many years ago I climbed the ice smear from the bottom which makes it about 25m I guess.

Mike

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