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Topic - Trad climbing, dying on its arse?

colin struthers - on 19 Feb 2013
A recent thread about replacing/removing fixed gear at Stony Middleton stimulated a lot of more general discussion about the future of trad climbing.

Some people felt that many long established trad crags were now suffering decline and deterioration through lack of traffic

Others disputed this or felt that less traffic was a good thing.

It was generally accepted that a large proportion of the current generation of young climbers have entered the sport through indoor walls.

It was noted that many of these new climbers seem to be more interested in sport routes and bouldering when they start to climb outdoors.

One poster described a situation in which we were 'sleep walking' towards a different sort of climbing future because not enough was being done to help young climbers adapt to the challenges of trad climbing or to overcome the perceived obstacles to getting into it.

Personally, I trad climb a lot, I sport climb a lot and I boulder a bit(creaky limbs). I value every aspect of our sport but I fear that much of our best rock will return to an unclimbable or at least unappealing state if current patterns persist.

In short, I think, (with a little bit of deliberate provocation) that trad climbing as we know it may be 'dying on its arse'

Is it?

Does it matter?

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