/ So another 2 weeks rest? Bored already!
Bit of background, had a niggling tweaky finger for a month or so of not pushing it and openhanded climbing, I decided it was a bit more than a tweak. Self diagnosed a strain or small tear of my A2 pulley on middle finger of my LH (don't think its anything more serious, didn't even notice doing it, no "popping", pain or swelling.) Only symptoms were tenderness in the base of the finger, esp. after climbing, and a bit painful to massage. Only noticed it a few times on the wall, mainly from just feeling weak because of not crimping!
So decided to take 2 weeks off doing a bit of Dave McLeod's ice bucket and some self styled hot/cold treatment (cling-filmed ice cube alternated with the bottom of a mug of tea, works a treat!) Ventured back to the wall tonight with no pain or tenderness, still climbing taped and openhanded, and now feels exactly the same as before!
Anything for it apart from another 2 weeks of boredom and buckets of water?
I'm in exactly the same boat with left ring finger A2. First climbing session again on saturday, kept it easy but did notice a wee bit of pain afterward. There's no pain in the finger now though so I'm tentatively going to tape the b'jaysus out of it and openhand my way to victory tonight. In theory.
I got some Therapy Putty and spent a lot of time squeezing that - I'd definitely reccommend it! I didn't bother with hot/cold though.
I'd say rest it until it's better or it'll end up taking even longer to recover.
Thought as much, hand back in the cold water bucket whilst sifting through the jobsites it is then . . . . :-(
Hope the finger gets well soon.
I agree. Easy climbing (or even hard climbing but with no crimping/tweeky holds) seems to work best for me, with minor finger injuries at least.
The most difficult thing, I've found, is using self-control when the finger starts feeling better. It's really tempting to just go all-out again straight away and re-injure it.
I started off really easy 6a/+ max for a week mainly practicing silent feet and technique (I was roughly a 7a climber back then) followed by 6b the next week carefully selecting routes that weren't crimpy but it didn't seem to be getting much better till i went on holiday, climbing little and often every day for a week an a half must have been great physio for it and by the end of the holiday i only had a tiny discomfort while massaging it hard. I think this mixed with the cold hot treatment and a bit of tape is a winner, but this is just my opinion of course.
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