/ Glacier approach on Grossglockner?

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JohnnyW - on 21 Feb 2013
Trying to plan the logistics of a flying visit to climb Triglav and the Grossglockner in Sept, and wondered if you guys had any advice?

I am relatively experienced in the alps, and whilst I know afternoon crossings of glaciers are not a good idea, I am considering getting up to the Erz Johannhutte later in the day? Is this folly, or is the glacier often dry by that juncture in the season? We are looking at the Normal route, and want to avoid the queues for the summit, so will be going up Sunday PM for a Mon am summit hopefully.

We will be flying into Ljubliana, so any advice gratefully received, particularly on a long weekend jaunt. How would you do it?

Cheers
In reply to JohnnyW: We approached EJHut in the afternoon (summer) from Glocknerhaus via the Wiener Hohenweg path and a cold drink in the Salmhutte. This gets you to the south side of the range. From there you climb to the main ridge via Hohenwartkees (not much of a glacier, don't recall any crevasses) and a bit of via ferrata type stuff up to the Hohenwartscharte. Then just traverse the top of the Hofmanskees glaceier beneath Hohenwartkopf and up the Salmkamp to the EJHut. This way you avoid crossing all those glaciers on the north side of the range and though you'd definitely be roped up on the off-chance I would think it's a much safer route crevasse-wise. Do get local advice first though, I was there some years ago and stuff changes.

The normal route is really enjoyable, but do get the earliest start you possibly can to avoid queues at bottlenecks. You're right to leave it til a week day but even still expect to be passing crowds on their way up as you descend. That's how we found it in july in any case.
redsonja - on 21 Feb 2013
In reply to JohnnyW: which route do you want to do on triglav?
JohnnyW - on 21 Feb 2013
In reply to heidi123:

I think we are just going to do the Prag route up and down, as we'll be pressed for time. The one to the NE sounds a bit tastier VF-wise, but as I say, we kind of need to be sharpish.......
JohnnyW - on 21 Feb 2013
In reply to Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com:
Think I'll get my map first, as the guidebook I've got is rather vague...then I can follow you Dan. Thanks
redsonja - on 21 Feb 2013
In reply to JohnnyW: the tomasinski route is absolutely fab and shouldnt take much longer than the prag route. the views of the north face are awe inspiring.we got a taxi from bled to aljazev dom which saved a long walk in. are you going by public transport or hiring a car?
crimbo - on 21 Feb 2013
I did the Grossglockner in July 2011 via the normal route. I left the Stuedl hut at about 1pm in the afternoon to get to the Erz J hutte. The glacier seemed fine, with no evidence of crevasses. there were some small avalanches and minor rock falls from the Grosslglockner south face itself , but they were way off in the distance. I would recommed roping up as in july the glacier was wet, as looking at pics of it in September it looked compltedly dry with many , many crevasses. Have a good trip
rukkan - on 22 Feb 2013
In reply to JohnnyW:

I think that tomasinski and the Prag route should take the same time and have the same difficulty. I had a fantistic day on Triglav when i took the tomasinski route up and the Prag route down. Be prepared for a long day, if you want to do it in one day.
JohnnyW - on 24 Feb 2013
In reply to JohnnyW:
Thanks guys, all good info. I have various options, so once I see the maps, it should all come together in my head

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