/ Scotland conditions
Looks like a pretty settled week ahead with freeze thaw cycles every day for a while. Staying cold with no/little snow.
So just wondering what venues are going to be in. Looking at some mixed in the gorms, some ice on meggy, another mixed route on aonach mor and finally finish the week with some ice on the Ben.
Are the conditions decent at the moment? Any recommendations.
Conditions are brilliant everywhere high. But ice generally better than mixed, as many steep routes are bare. So climb ice at Aonach Mor.
I would be very surprised if they weren't (but haven't heard).
Me and the good Dr are heading further north than usual next week (we're holidaying together in his van). A man with you're knowledge might come in usefull??
Anyone heard if smiths on meggy is in?
Any idea whether there's much left in the NW other than relatively low grade ice?
Was skiing on Liathach on Sunday. There was plenty of snow in the easy gullies. Poachers looked complete, but at the time, was thawing and looked fairly thin.
Thanks. So how to avoid the the Nevis crowds...... some cunning might be required.....
> Me and the good Dr are heading further north than usual next week (we're holidaying together in his van). A man with you're knowledge might come in usefull??
My knowledge of the NW is pre-thaw. But my guess is that gullies are good and easier mixed routes, but that the steeper mixed will be bare. An Teallach and the Fannaichs were very snowy do I would have said a better chance, then Dan says An Teallach not. Obviously Penguin Gully is good but maybe too easy. Ice Hose might just be there, as for Gamma Gully. So I'm not much help really.
Some recent writeups from my brother on Glencoe Mountaineer, with pics as usual:
Also climbed pumpkin and teams on staghorn and the wand. last post looked well iced also on meggy
In reply to Andy Nisbet:
> Was skiing on Liathach on Sunday.
Did you ski gully 7 in Coire na Caime? I came down that way after doing the Trinity gullies on Mullach an Rathain and saw some swish marks - bet that was fun!
Some great conditions on creag meagaidh
The Ben is in generally tremendous condition at the moment, high face routes are good. Ice is a little thinner on the upper parts of routes with screws bottoming out.
Elsewhere on the site
Pete Whittaker has flashed the 32 pitch route Freerider 5.12d on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley over three days,... Read more
A pack designed for year-round ascents. Super light, flexible, strippable and seasonally versatile you can rely on this perennial... Read more
Manchester Climbing Centre is showing Reel Rock’s Valley Uprising on Tuesday the 11th of November at... Read more
From a personal point of view, photographing the night sky is one of the most difficult, frustrating yet ultimately rewarding... Read more
Nuts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. Initially made from... Read more