/ Scotland conditions

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geoff.comley - on 22 Feb 2013
Morning all,

Looks like a pretty settled week ahead with freeze thaw cycles every day for a while. Staying cold with no/little snow.

So just wondering what venues are going to be in. Looking at some mixed in the gorms, some ice on meggy, another mixed route on aonach mor and finally finish the week with some ice on the Ben.

Are the conditions decent at the moment? Any recommendations.

Thanks peeps
Andy Nisbet - on 22 Feb 2013
In reply to geoff.comley:

Conditions are brilliant everywhere high. But ice generally better than mixed, as many steep routes are bare. So climb ice at Aonach Mor.
AlMcC - on 22 Feb 2013
Are the routes on Lurchers climbable at the moment? Thinking north or central gullies...
Andy Nisbet - on 22 Feb 2013
In reply to AlMcC:

I would be very surprised if they weren't (but haven't heard).
AlMcC - on 22 Feb 2013
Thanks Andy, North has been on the to-do list for ages but with the settled weather there's so many options....!
Stuart the postie - on 22 Feb 2013
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

Morning Andy,

Me and the good Dr are heading further north than usual next week (we're holidaying together in his van). A man with you're knowledge might come in usefull??

Stuart
geoff.comley - on 22 Feb 2013
Cheers Andy, pretty much a perfect forecast for ice but didn't see many routes being climbed on here so was doubting myself if the climbs are in.

Anyone heard if smiths on meggy is in?
mmckenna - on 22 Feb 2013
In reply to geoff.comley: All, heading up to Scotland tonight for a weekend of climbing. Anyone know if Benn Udlaidh is in condition? It would make a nice start to the weekend as it is not so much of a drive.
Robert Durran - on 22 Feb 2013
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

Any idea whether there's much left in the NW other than relatively low grade ice?
In reply to Robert Durran: Was on An Teallach Tuesday and Beinn Alligin Wednesday. Pretty much nothing in from what I could see, except the easy snow gullies; and only some of them complete. Dry underfoot, and it was warm. Beinn Dearg and the Fannaichs looked to have held on to more snow though. Hope that helps a bit
Mark Bull - on 22 Feb 2013
In reply to mmckenna:
> Anyone know if Benn Udlaidh is in condition?

Looks like a no, I'm afraid: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=539639

mmckenna - on 22 Feb 2013
In reply to Mark Bull: Thanks Mark.
Scomuir on 22 Feb 2013
In reply to Robert Durran:
Was skiing on Liathach on Sunday. There was plenty of snow in the easy gullies. Poachers looked complete, but at the time, was thawing and looked fairly thin.
Robert Durran - on 22 Feb 2013
In reply to Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com:

Thanks. So how to avoid the the Nevis crowds...... some cunning might be required.....
Andy Nisbet - on 22 Feb 2013
In reply to Stuart the postie:
>
> Me and the good Dr are heading further north than usual next week (we're holidaying together in his van). A man with you're knowledge might come in usefull??
>

My knowledge of the NW is pre-thaw. But my guess is that gullies are good and easier mixed routes, but that the steeper mixed will be bare. An Teallach and the Fannaichs were very snowy do I would have said a better chance, then Dan says An Teallach not. Obviously Penguin Gully is good but maybe too easy. Ice Hose might just be there, as for Gamma Gully. So I'm not much help really.
Only a hill - on 22 Feb 2013
jas wood - on 22 Feb 2013
In reply to AlMcC: I climbed central and a team on north last weekend and they were good so would imagine they are still complete now given the colder conditions.
Also climbed pumpkin and teams on staghorn and the wand. last post looked well iced also on meggy

Jason
Sam Hawkins - on 22 Feb 2013
We climbed Penguin Gully on Tuesday which was in good nick. Ice Hose looked good higher up, but a bit thin on the lower section. Probably climeable though. An Teallach on Monday was great, very firm snow underfoot, but only the easy gullies looked good to climb. Only two teams on the entire mountain.


In reply to Andy Nisbet:
wee jamie on 22 Feb 2013
In reply to Scomuir:
> (In reply to Robert Durran)
> Was skiing on Liathach on Sunday.

Did you ski gully 7 in Coire na Caime? I came down that way after doing the Trinity gullies on Mullach an Rathain and saw some swish marks - bet that was fun!
Scomuir on 22 Feb 2013
ads.ukclimbing.com
connor on 22 Feb 2013
In reply to geoff.comley:

Some great conditions on creag meagaidh

http://barebackclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2013/02/magic-day-on-wand.html
Murko Fuzz - on 22 Feb 2013
In reply to geoff.comley:
The Ben is in generally tremendous condition at the moment, high face routes are good. Ice is a little thinner on the upper parts of routes with screws bottoming out.
wee jamie on 22 Feb 2013
In reply to Scomuir: Ah, very good! I saw a great sunrise from the Northern Pinnacles on the 19th. I feel a painting coming on
In reply to wee jamie: Hi Jamie, nice to bump into you on the hill. You must have great material for a painting or three
wee jamie on 22 Feb 2013
In reply to Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com: Indeed Dan, what a day! Been out this morning on the east face of An Garbhanach. Can't get enough of these quality conditions, so the paintings will have to wait
In reply to wee jamie: Dull n grey here in the east. How's snow cover holding up in the Mamores?
AlH - on 22 Feb 2013
In reply to Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com: Dull n grey? Its scorching at Glenmore just now!
wee jamie on 22 Feb 2013
In reply to Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com: It was cloudy this morning, but I've got my boots drying outside in the sun now. Snow cover on the Mamores is good - the crests are nice crunchy neve, and the N through E aspects are very snowy - all hard packed and a delight for fast travel. Al, get out there and get a tan!

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