/ UKC Fit Club week 310
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (309) thread:
deacondeacon - sounds like good progress down at the wall since you joined us - starting to match indoor and outdoor bouldering levels and getting up a 7a on the main lead wall there is something I've never managed, too steep for my liking
seankenny - sounds like between the falls and tackling the steep sections of wall you're working on weaknesses which can only be a good thing in the long run
Kevster - well jealous of you getting out at the weekend. In terms of the arm strength I think it's something I could work on too. Felt like the "50 pullups in 5 minutes" thing was helping on the power endurance side, but haven't really done any arm specific strength training for some time. Sounds like you've identified it as a weakness, so keep hitting it hard by whatever methods and you'll reap the benefits, even if it's tedious at the time (can't be worse than core?!)
mrchewy - the pullups from horizontal is something I ought to work out a way to do too, sounds pretty relevant. sounds like a reflective week - personally I am a one sport kind of person but others on here manage to crush at several things simultaneously so it's clearly possible....;)
Si dH - sounds like you're on form, definitely peaking round the right sort of time for Font. I look forwards to hearing of crushing. I'll struggle to keep up when you start applying this to "proper climbing" ;)
mattrm - good to see that despite those goal changes you've kept the long term ones as a beacon to aspire towards. With the core, it really does look like people are focusing in on weaknesses this week...
IainRUK - don't blame you for missing it, sounds grim...!
Eagle River - sounds like someone's getting hooked! Good to have something like that to aim towards- I tried right hand man several times "just for a look" before committing to it.
Exile - how are you getting on with the 4x4s...?
leon - possibly not as relevant for your power endurance phase atm, but I'm amazed at the moment by the improvements I'm still seeing on very low volume training. Maybe decent rests are the way to go after all...
biscuit - progress on the project? Know what you mean about losing inspiration for boards etc - haven't touched my fingerboard since I moved, just not been arsed enough.
kylieo - what's the plan for June then? Having something to aim for definitely keeps me motivated through the cold winter months
Nomics4sale - progress on the 7b? Sometimes getting on them is half the battle. Sometimes, of course, that's nonsense and the route itself gives the battle ;)
Daniel Heath - has the headpointing made you think about changing future goals at all, or are you thinking of it more as a diversion
grubes - nice one on the slate! Good job on the promotion too :)
Ally Smith - blame it on Barrows ;) good job on wss, but you'll never get strong if you keep breaking yourself on random scrittle ;)
annak - good miles...
maria85 - sounds like a good weekend. The Ben can be an intimidating old place can't it!
NMN - sounds like a pretty busy week...
Jamming dodger - the dog ate your week, like it! As for being a hungover inspiration, I'm hungover and you've inspired me to, well, continue being hungover :)
DoctorU - so have you stopped admiring the beastmaker and started cranking on it yet?
Ian Bell - I tried to think of something useful to say about your week - is "vague" helpful ;)? Did you get out?
Sankey - sounds like a really good and productive trip! Nice one. 7a shouldn't be far off now if you commit to one. Have you any in mind?
Luke Owens - that's a good writeup for Boysens Groove! Worryingly psyched for some welsh bouldering this year. Sounds like a good day out.
Another spectacularly low volume week this week. The van has just taken over atm. Don't see much prospect for change before Easter. But still, when I am getting out I'm crushing, so at the very least I'm holding onto the strength gains I made earlier in the winter.
So went to Reading Wall Wednesday night. Short session. So in an hour and twenty I managed to flash pretty much all the problems I tried off their V2-4 circuits, do 4 problems I think (maybe 5) from their V4-6 circuit and after several goes one problem from their V6-8 circuit. Also tried and didn't quite get one of the V4-6 ones, and obviously did a few of the V0-2 circuit to warm up and down. Pleased with that!
Am hoping to maybe get 2 wall sessions in this week, and when ive cleared space around it I do have the fingerboard setup, it's just in a corner of the room which has our van materials stored in it, and at the moment there's a sheet of 8x4 in the way! Fingers crossed that will go today (it's the ceiling, or a part of it) which might remove one of my excuses...!
On the plus side though there is significant van progress being made, as those who have me on fb will probably have seen. It's not down as a goal but having a vehicle to go to Ceuse in in May is pretty important too ;)
Thanks for looking after fitclub this week AJM
STG-indoor f7a+ redpoint and a couple more F7A's on grit.
MTG-few routes on my wishlist, long johns slab, archangel, the rasp. (by end of april)
LTG- consolidate E4, at least 10 (by the end of 2013)
Mon-Trad up to E2 at Stanage
Tue-Trad up to HVS at Bamford
Wed-Bouldering at plantation
Thu-Trad up to HVS at plantation
Fri-Bouldering at the works
Sat-Nothing, went for a couple of hours walk.
Sun-Just about to head over to RHS/Cratcliffe
Lots of 'proper' climbing this week, only went indoors once and it was a pretty good session down the works.
Outdoors I rarely repeat routes which means that when I go to a crag I climb at often, I inevitably end up on routes with no stars. They're usually crap or scrittly, sometimes both and nine times out of ten nails. This week seemed to be full of them.
Amazing day at Bamford, nothing hard but the weather was glorious. Tshirts all day and even a little sunburn. didn't see another climber all day too.
Bouldering at plantation was nice, very good conditions but failed to repeat captain hook or zippies. Met up with a mate I hadn't seen for ages which was good though.
Neglected the training this week but when the weather is this good it's sacrilege to be climbing indoors, and I'm really keen for RHS and possibly Rowtor this afternoon if it's dry. Really fancy Jerrys arete and Boing boy.
Cheers Andy. Yep it feels like things are coming together at the right time - well psyched now! :)
Good luck getting the van done in time!
STG (this winter through to March): tick at least 10 new Ft 7s, including at least one Ft 7b, before Font [so far: 6 Ft 7a, 3 Ft 7a+]
MTG: tick at least 5 Ft 7as in Font in March
LTG (March-Dec 2013):
- aim to onsight 10 E3s and 1 E4 in 2013. I've also updated my wishlist to reflect some of the routes I want to do if I get the opportunity.
M: Bouldering at Alter Rock. Just repeated things I;d done before, fairly short session, but felt quite strong which was nice.
T: Fingerboard session, focussing on pockets (front and back two) then on one-armed hangs on the big central slot
W: Fingerboard session as for Tuesday
T: Bouldering at Alter Rock. Did all but one of the new set of problems, the one remaining has a desperate sideways dyno that I'm nowhere near, but i's nice to do all the others.
F: Rest / beer festival - drank far too much! Celebrating finishing a really tough week at work and that I now have 2 weeks off! :)
S: Nothing - felt ill/hungover/generally awful. Mate's birthday in the evening - more booze!
S: Short session at Wright's Rock, Churnet. Managed to tick Bhodi (Ft 7a+) - pleased with this, it's a cool problem and again shows I'm in good shape prior to Font strength-wise.
Good week this week - work was really hard but I managed to get four proper training sessions in that all felt quite good, plus got Bhodi ticked today. Off to the airport in about 45 minutes - I'm going skiing in Andorra now until Friday, get home about midnight Friday night, and then I'm being picked up to drive to Font at 5am on Saturday morning. Therefore this will be my last post for a fortnight.
I didn't quite tick my STG over the winter of 10 new 7s and a 7b before Font (in fact I never got on a 7b, just haven't had the time/weather/opportunity), but I did get 9 new 7s including 3 7a+s, and feel like Ft7a in a day is a realistic regular target now, which is what I really wanted before I went to Font. I feel like the 5 7s in Font target should definitely be doable. I'll set some new goals when I get back - to be trad-focussed.
Happy crushing all!
Have a good one at the Stride. Ive tried Jerry's Arete a couple of times this winter but always find it hard - need to do some high stepping to get more flexibility in my right leg! (oh - and pull a bit harder on that arete...)
Dan H - your logbook is looking very healthy indeed. Well done in the slate quarries. I'm sure you've probably been out all weekend with the weather being half decent?
Fontaine Bleau is the best place ever. I love going to that place.
S- Satan M'habite assis, Pancras, le Retour de la Chenille and finished the day off with Jet Set.
M- Cuvier, Carnage and Bleau's Art (spent most of the day eating cheese)
T- Bizarre Bizarre, Mortel Transfert and Modulor (was psyched to do this, felt pretty hard)
W- Rest day
T- Split my tip warming up. Swore a lot. Taped up. Gargantoit, Yogi, Extraction terrestre, Vis-a-vis, Test de Turing (Hardest slab I've ever climbed - psyched!) and La Fosse aux Ours.
F- Big Jim, absolutely amazing problem - one of the best in the world. I don't think I'm underselling that. Jeu t'es Fou, Oliver Twist (this felt hard) Les Conquistadores (crimpy wall thing) and finally Osiris.
S- Tried Biceps Moi before the journey home but I was a little too spanked and short on skin.
Most successful trip so far. Still nothing really hard, but I'm getting there. Need to improve on my explosive power I think. Being able to dynamically pop out of statically locked position is something I find really difficult.
And it's an interesting question about Headpointing.
I've always thought I'd get into it when I stop improving or training. Because a lot of high E grade routes wouldn't require much stamina if the sequence was wired.
I think both HP and OS are worthwhile, but there are lots of routes I'd rather save for the onsight. I had once expected to HP Pool Wall, and I'm now glad I didn't.
I think my climbing really depends on opportunities, and when I fail to find willing partners I'll no doubt get a shunt on some hard routes.
Pretty poor week I'm afraid.
T-more rest from Shauna's weekend coaching - still wrecked!
Boxing club, first time. Got some benefit from crunches, and arms felt weak the next day. Not as much CV as I hoped, but I think it's as hard as you make it. (I'll make it harder next time :P)
S-Tried to train, but felt terrible. Indoor bouldering seems less appealing every week. Shame really. I need to remind myself how good outdoor climbing is so I keep improving.
Sorry for the lazy week :(
Maybe I'll make up for it with a couple of millstone routes next weekend...
Thanks mate. I feel like I don't want to lower my average grade this year!
Took a weekend off for Uni work so none this weekend.
Sounds like you had a great week in Font. It's funny you saying you need more power. Makes the rest of us pitifully weak. I only just got back to 1-3-5-7 the other week!
Last weekend was lovely, shame about this weekend!
Deacondeacon - Jerry's arete, its all in the finger lock at the start from what I recall. Is the chipping there (Stride/cratcliffe) really as bad as the pictures show?
Arm strength etc, and antagonistic stuff. Got a shed load of info from a past FC'r (thanks). Yet to explore it all as its been a busy week work wise. Though have managed a few sessions.
Is there a recognised cycle for fingerboarding - strength vs endurance? Max hangs then repeaters? Or alternate sessions?
Tue: Indoors leading, thought I'd tick all the 7's at the wall in one session, got psyche crushed mid session so only did a few of them.
Thur: Fingerboard session
Sat: Hemel - I have now run out of new routes to try there. Good volume, maybe 15+ routes, 2 of the bouldering circuits and traverses. Falling confidence not what it used to be. Need to practice.
Sun: Jog & pull ups. Tried one pull up in every 10 second interval, lasted 2 minutes - 12 pull ups - thats embarrasing! 50 pull ups in 2 minutes - a long way off. But it gives me a method of measuring improvement.
Next week: FB twice, climb twice, arm session once. Finish looking through G's references.
STG - Old man of Hoy - less than 2 weeks away if weather plays ball, HOM @ cuttings.
Old man of Hoy would be an experience and a half! We're looooong over due some good weather
The people I was climbing with made me feel a bit weak! Give me a tiny crimp and I'll lock it down to my hip. But that ability to make a dynamic move from an awkward body/hold position is somewhat lacking. Probably something which has developed with too much indoor climbing and not enough outdoor climbing.
Deacondeacon - Jerry's Arete is one of my favourite 7a's in the UK. It's a great problem. Pretty hard though!
Thanks for stepping in Andy.
STG: 7c by April (tremelo, metal guru, biological need)
Thurs: indoor routes. Ticked off a very generous 7b+ (probs 7a+) and had a go on the 8a.
Finished with some laps.
Not much climbing this week and i was away this weekend so have taken Monday off to go to Malham. It's not looking as dry as I thought it would be so might end up on raindogs again.
m: steady 10 mile road run
t: easy 8 trail run. pm: 7 miles with 3 x 1.5 mile efforts at 5:30 pace
w: 20 mile trail run, 7:11 pace
t: easy 5.5 road run. pm: 6.5 with 5 x 1ks at 5:20 pace
f: easy 7.5 mile on roads. pm: steady 5.1 mile trail run
s: east 6 miler.. hung over
s: steady 13 miler.. ended up 16 with last 6 at marathon pace or below
I had a little play on Jerrys Arete but it was trashing my skin so left it for another time.
If i'm honest the vandalism isn't as bad as I was expecting. Razor roof had a couple of small chips but I reckon the grades will stay the same. There was an Arete round the corner that had some fairly bad damage though. Lots of tickmarks on lots of problems though.
Boingboy is well worth a return though. You feel like a hero when you hold the swing. (that is if you're doing it the dynamic way.) Emergency Room is pretty good as well.
The problems on Hueco are quite tricky. I remember one was a bit easier than the other (Chapel and Wish I think their called?)
I have a summer plan of redpointing 7b and I'd really like to get that done while we're away in June. We're off to the South of France though and I always find grades there a lot harder than here so I am giving myself the rest of summer in case I don't make it whilst we're away! Does anyone have any good crag or route suggestions in South France? Ideally a crag with camping in walking / easy cycling distance and routes that are not hideously overhanging.
This week was a rest week so very little done really.
Monday - After nearly getting the 6c+ Sunday I couldn't give up on it for a whole week so I was back at the wall for one last go and got it first attempt. Second one ever and after only a few goes so I was very pleased. Time to give a 7a some serious effort now I think.
Tuesday - light conditioning / antagonist exercises.
Sunday - light conditioning / antagonist exercises.
Having said that, I've had a good climbing week this week, with 3 successful sessions:
M - Lazy Day
T - Climbing at Awesome Walls Liverpool (9 routes):
5+L, 6aL, 6aL (Fail), 5L overhanging, 6aL, 6b L(Fail) switch to 6aL finish, 6aL clean on the overhanging chimney - first time I've done this clean!, 6aL, 6aL on the awesome wall (clean unless stated)
W - am: a 10 min run and 30 rep, 10 exercise body weight circuit (push up, star jumps, crunches, etc) - tiring!
Th - Climbing at the Beacon Caernarfon (10 routes):
6a+Autobelay(AB) (fail) - who warms up on a 6a+?!, 5c, 5a, 6a+L Dogged, 6a L RP (1 fall), 6a, 6a, Long 6a+L failed at clip 9, 5cL, 6a+TR
F - Nothing
Sa - Walking : Elidir Fawr, Y Garn, Glyder Fawr, Glyder Fach - fun scrambling in the snow!
Su - Climbing at the Beacon (again!) : 12 routes (doubled short warmup routes counted as 1):
4aTRx2 (warmup, 5aTRx2, 5c TR
4bTRx2 5bL 6a+TR
**6b+L Redpoint!** (4 falls)
7aL *fail after big fall from clip 5 to clip 1!* finished on 5b
Some attempts to work out a couple of technical 6c routes...
6a big overhang, large wall (Redpoint) - tired by this time!
So in summary:
STG: Post on Sunday : achieved! ;)
STG: Climb 6b regularly - upped to climb 6b+ regularly, after today's performance
STG: STOP JUST CARESSING THE BEASTMAKER! :D
MTG: Fit for Kalymnos : feeling good after today!
MTG: Get out Trad Leading: cancelled this weekend due to the cold & snow :(
Onwards & Upwards - figuratively and literally!
T - WW bouldering. A couple of V3, bunch of easier ones and then worked on 2 seperate problems both prob around V5 ish. Managed all the moves on the slab one, just one move to stick on the other.
S - Castle bouldering. Bunch of V2s and a V3. Always get my ass kicked at the castle, problems there take a bit more thought than the WW.
S - Biscuit bouldering. Conversly always feel a hero here as the grades are softer! Managed around a dozen of the V3-V5 problems and maybe half a dozen of the V2-V4.
Didn't get outside, was going to go to Bowles on Sunday but decided it was just too cold!
Font Fri - Sun next week which should be great. Only 4 weeks till Tenerife!
Hi AJM, 4x4 seem to be going well, proof will be in the pudding though when I put my ice axes away!
Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Winter VI 6
Goals for this Spring:
RP - 7a+ / 7b
HP - E6
Winter - VI 7
Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.
M: 40 min bouldering, traversing on 6b+ traverse, easy endurance session
T: Morning: 55 min fell run, Evening: 1hr 50 bouldering, warm up, 2x(4x4) short repeaters on finger board and core
W: 55 min fell run
F: Morning: 1hr bouldering warm up, 1x(4x4), core. Evening 1 hr 6b+ traverse, recovery session.
S: 2.5hrs winter climbing. Raven Crag Gully direct finish on Red Screes, IV 4. A good morning with two good friends. Home for 10.30am.
Hi Andy, thanks for doing FC this week.
STG: V4 and then V5 on the bouldering wall, two 6c/7a routes clean in one session.
MTG: Actually touch real rock.
All I did this week was:
Tues: Bouldering at Westway, came very close to flashing a V4.
Very quiet week from me as I've been up in East Yorkshire looking after my sick (but getting a lot better) mum. She's well tough and an inspiration to everyone who knows her, and a reminder that getting fit isn't just about ticking routes or whatever, but it's something that really sets you up for life. So not much this week but I have done just enough to keep my hand in for now, hopefully better to come soon.
Sorry Andy, I was completely blind to you doing fit club this week!
Thanks for giving up your time
Yeah, it feels like its coming together now - the electrics phase was a bit dispiriting in a way as nothing really seemed to change (a few wires or switches here or there but if you didnt know you might miss it - you know there's progress there but it's so hard to see) but now every time we go into the van we come out and something big has changed.
I have done a lot of climbing in the south of France now and in terms of places I would rate for the summer I think it'd boil down to Gorges du Loup, Verdon and Ceuse.
- I spent a fortnight in Loup last August and the climbing conditions were actually pretty decent. Ace tufa routes plus some other stuff too. Now sure about campsite as I was in my mates van. Blog here: http://andytheclimbingpunter.blogspot.co.uk/2012/09/louping-loup.html
- Did a few days on the north bank of the Verdon too. Bauchet is an awesome crag and whilst it's by no means a giveaway I have been wondering whether Ratttlesnake there is one of the best 7bs I've ever done (it's definitely be up there in the best 7s too). http://andytheclimbingpunter.blogspot.co.uk/2012/09/verdon-keeping-it-cool.html
- Ceuse is the traditional summer French crag with campsite nearby and loads of awesome climbing, mainly walls and pockets and stuff. There's some articles on here about it, but basically it's ace.
- if you were in Chamonix anyway and wanted to climb harder sport then try Barberine/Giertroz. Not sure I'd plan a holiday just for it but if you are there then it's the best valley sport I've done round Cham and my friend who lives there said much the same. http://andytheclimbingpunter.blogspot.co.uk/2012/09/chamonix-cragging-barberinegietroz.html
> Monday - After nearly getting the 6c+ Sunday I couldn't give up on it for a whole week so I was back at the wall for one last go and got it first attempt. Second one ever and after only a few goes so I was very pleased. Time to give a 7a some serious effort now I think.
Definitely - get stuck in!
No worries Dan!
Can't decide whether I had a 'good' week in Spain or not - on one hand I did lots of brilliant routes, but on the other hand I didn't do a single route harder than 7b... did bag a couple of E5s onsight though which was unexpected!
Sat - Climbed at Sella, not very impressed with the area we were at... warmed up on a polished 6a then did a tough, cruxy 7a, then Kashba, which I thought was a bit overrated and undergraded at 6c+, and another 7a which was just as good but only got 1*. Looking through the Logbooks it's Dan Heath's first 7a!
Sun - Climbed at Alcalali, twas a day of many 7as. The first was closer to 6c (called Busaba if anyone is after a good first 7a O/S), the second was excellent, but downgraded from 7b+(!) and felt more like 7b (called Heaven Can't Wait), the third felt like a proper 7a and was also very good. The fourth and final 7a was quite good, but was let down by having very easy climbing until a short, steep hard section at the top.
Mon - Great day at Echo Valley. After warming up on a horrendous 6b, I got straight onto Midnight Runner, gets 7a+/E5 in the guide. If the climbing had actually been 7a+, it would have been worth E5, but it was fairly well protected (5 bolts and quite a lot of gear in 50m of climbing) and felt like an easy 7a. Great route though, sustained climbing on little edges for 50m, and I'll take the E5 for the onsight! Had a go on a thin 7c but had to frig to the top because the holds ran out! Finished the day climbing a classic five pitch E3 called Diedro Edwards, managed to get up and down in about two hours.
Tue - Rainy day so went to L'Ocaive, which is steep and sheltered. Warmed up running a two pitch 6c into one pitch (felt more like 6c+ without a rest at the belay). Then I onsighted the first 7b of the holiday, a short steep route called Basket Case with a great no hands rest where you hide in a hole. Tried the 7b+ variant after but the hold broke off going for the finishing jug:( Next lead a brilliant 7a called Rosamonte up some lovely tufas, and finished the day playing on an 8a with in-situ draws. Fun route, stupidly steep and sustained but I got all the moves on the dog which was nice.
Wed - Nueva Dimension on the Penon, nine pitch 7b! http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=22396
A change in plans meant that we arrived at the crag at 2 o'Clock, when we should have set out at ten! First pitch was the 7b pitch, given E5 6b in the guide. It's bolted, but it isn't a sport route! Lots of chossy rock meant I couldn't trust all the bolts, and I had to use all the small holds because the big ones came off in my hand. Despite this the climbing was amazing, and I managed to get up all nine pitches clean onsight: 7b, 7a, 6b+, E1, E1, E2, 6c, 6c, 4+. The pictures on the logbook of me and Dad give an idea of the rock and exposure... Ended up topping out at 6.30; 9 hard pitches in 4 hours, with not very much water, rest, or pre-planning! First 7b multipitch.
Thurs - Felt exhausted, had a crap day at Guadalest. Tried to warm up but got pumped on a 6a+, tried a 7b+ with a disgusting bouldery crux, then finished the day very nearly failing on a 6c. Retreated into the town for a coffee!
Fri - Last day of the holiday, planned to do some big mountain stuff but dodgy weather meant we couldn't. Instead we went to Pego, but I was too tired to climb very hard... Warmed up stupidly on Quimera, the tough 6c classic of the crag, though it was very good. Next had a play on the 7c, no where near the onsight though! Finished the trip onsighting a 7a and a 6c with tired arms and sore fingers.
Full ticklist (looks like high volume, low intensity...) including individual pitches on big routes.
4 x 6c/+
9 x 7a (inc 1 x 7a/7b+?)
2 x 7b
3 x HVS/E1
2 x E5
Oh and I can't remember if I commented on it but I was inspired by your previous week, can't remember how many E4s and E5s it was but it seemed like a lot!
Looks like you've had a strong week Jake, with what must be some scary crossover from sport to trad!
Thanks, Scare City wasn't that hard. I toproped it once and the moves were so straightforward I felt good to go for it the following day. 6a rockovers on Slate is probably about as simple as beta gets, so it didn't require much work. Maybe because it was a slab it didn't feel so committing, as you could shout for help at any time.
What are you thinking of headpointing? I've often been inspired by Nathan Lee's logbook (and great videos on Vimeo). It seems he goes out with his dad and ticks every big Grit route you can think of!
didn't post on week 309.. but it went like this... (usual stuff... turbo trainer or bike in gym every day, 2x weight training sessions, 4x core sessions, 4. climbing at wall.. 4x4 and 3x3 stuff...
week 310..travelled to spain on saturday (delayed flight from blackpool... frustrating start)
sat- scruntched up too long travelling...pm gym at hotel... cardio and core
sun -early moring cardio in gym (int traning on bike)climbing at alcalali... nervous on first route but then got on harder stuff and felt better... led 6a, 6b, 7a (dogged) played on bottom section of a 7b+ a couple of times
mon-early morning int training on bike i n gym, the alcalali again, warm up on a 6a+, clipped up first three bolts of the 7b+ and tried that twice, rested and led it ... dogged but happy. top roped it afterwards for fitness
tues-rained, went to los pinos.. sharp .. too sharp for me.. dogged a 6c, clipped up a 7b which i intended to try leading but top was so painful with shapr pockets in crack.. couldn't cope with the pain!!!
then wnet to teh lower section of los pinos and played on a steep 7b
wed- can't remeber name of crag... roja somehting or other.. polished or sharp.. dogged everything form 6b+ to 7a+ .. the crag felt under graded and it made me sulk :o)
thur-gym early am. alcalali..warmed up on 6b, then led a easy 7a, sarah fed up so went to los pinos and playted on the steep 7b again
fri-gym early am, alcalali.. warmed up on a 6a+, clipped up a 7b+ .. found it ok but got freaked with a lose bolt that was third from the top.. but not actually lose... just swivelling around and wearing our rock around it... made my mouth very dry!! got on it again... too tired to lead it but thought in rectrospect i should've tried it as it was doable. then dogged a steep 7a (in guide as 7c but was told it was 7a... found top section hard and a bit run out for me)
sat- early session at gym- cardio and weights... then had to go to the airport
sun- plan was to climb at malham but was stuck in blackpool for most of the day as the van conked out on sat night. pm gym- int training on bike.. intended on climbing indoors for a bit but no juice left
Barrows blames Owen for discovering the extra kneebar. It doesn't seem to be helping with getting the bugger ticked though! Shaking out helps the fingers, but tires the core. Choices, choices!
LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham
MTG (Spring 2013) - Melanchollie at LPT & be fit for Terredets at Easter. Found video of La Marroncita at Oliana. Think this will be one of my Easter targets.
STG (end Feb 2013)
- Re-hab ankle injuries :-(
- Continue re-hab of finger injury and re-start finger boarding.
- Get back in the cave of justice
- Lots of elbow eccentrics - Zottman curls proving good combination exercise
- Back to Brean Down and finish off ticking the crag. 4 new routes and a retro-bolt since i lived in Bristol.
- Get back below 75kg (Currently 76.6kg and 6.7% BF)
- More core
- More an-cap
- More small holds, preferably outside
M - Fingerboarding. Repeaters 4x drag on BM2K slots (+2kg), 3x drag on BM2K sml slots 3x doorjamb crimp. Lots core in between sets. Ankle healing surprisingly quickly.
T - Very good session for 4th day on. AWL. Warm-up, 7b OS, 8a dog, 8a rp attempt, then aero-cap inc 7b TR x3
W - Rest
T - Cave lamplight session. Cold and glassy. Couldn't get foot to stick on Hatch life, so tried LF. Did all the moves, including pocket drag i'd always struggled with :-) 3x20 kneebar sit-ups
F - Nowt
S - Bouldering in cave. Strained lat warming up in split infinity - carried on regardless and got more and more sore :-( Fell off Hatch Life 4 times moving into LW or thereabouts. More goes on LF inc working sans pocket variant. Felt beasted driving home. BIG roast dinner :-)
S - 1.5hr biking round black at Llandegla. Feel lurgy coming on. Shamelessly used the granny ring for the first time in ages!
This week: fingers felt a bit seiezed up after so much climbing, then an abrupt stop, but trying to get things moving again
F: Foundry: Level 1 problems, finger tweaks and pain throughout session
S: Run 4.6 miles
S: Spent a freezing hour at Bell Hagg, Static bike 7.5 kn later
STG: V4 ish boudlering e.g. Walnut Traverse at Birchen -WORKING / Crucifix traverse at Almscliff
2 problems I couldn't quite do last winter, so good benchmarks
MTG: RP 6c in Turkey Feb 5th onwards DONE / French 7a boulder traverse equivalent at churnet
LTG: 7a Sport RP
Monday, Tuesday & Wednesday - Rest & Stretching. Felt overtired and boxed from a long day in the pass on Sunday.
Thursday - Bouldering Comp at Oswestry Climbing Centre. Flashed 12 Easy and Medium problems. Flashed 1 Hard problem and did 1 3rd go and one 4th go. Hardest they've been set for a comp so far. Psyched to do so well!
Friday - Fingerboard repeaters 5 sec hangs, 5 sec rest x 6 (3 minutes rest between sets)
1. One hand on 20's one hand on 35's on Slopers.
2. Alternate hands as above.
3. Middle 2
4. Pinch grip with a 20kg weight attached to a piece of 2x4.
5. Pinch grip with other hand as above.
6. Front 3 - open hand.
7. Back 2 with one foot on chair
(Did 2 sets of all the above hangs)
Saturday - Rest
Sunday - Very productive day.
Morning - Bolted a new line, previously had a quick look but not tired any of the moves. Looked about 6c/+. Climbed on a shunt and it felt more like 7a or harder. Great moves on slopers and a crozzly limestone headwall. Worked out all the best bolt positions and climbed a few more times. Took about 3 1/2 hours.
Afternoon - Went to Pantymwyn to try Robert Duvall V6/7A.
Took about an hour to work out the last move. Once worked out climbed it from a stand start for the first time (psyched!) Climbed from a sit and can do all the moves but just to tired to link the whole thing. Feels great to be so close now, Only had 1 proper session on it. Go back fresh and it'll be in the bag I reckon!
Snowdon Race - 1h 35m.
Edale Skyline - 4h.
Ben Nevis Race - 2h 20m.
Wasdale - get round.
Get out climbing again & regularly onsighting VS / HS.
Push trad grade.
Lead a tough E1.
Nothing for me this week due to being on holiday.
M, T, W, T, F, S, S - on holiday!
I didn't enter the Edale Skyline quick enough to get in, which is quite annoying.
Normally I'd rush back into things and get injured again but took it easy this week.
Mon - Fri Some pushups and pullups etc but not a lot.
Sat - Wales winter in the arvo. Pottered along and up Sargents Gully, then some Grade II ice leading to a too thin crux on (In)Fidelity, so we backed off and went to do Parsley Fern as it was getting late.
Sun - Trinity Face! Finally. Right Hand III 3 I believe, led the second pitch and the top out. Then along Crib Goch to finish.
Bit of a week to be honest. Bought a decent road bike secondhand, my physio and surgeon will be happy but it should let me do some cardio without damaging the knees. Was pretty rough/ill on Crib Goch, dehydration I think and it was a bit of an epic getting down. Head was sketchy, felt faint, couldn't concentrate but a lesson learnt. Didn't enjoy that one bit.
I've soloed harder stuff but III 3 is my hardest roped winter lead, so well happy with that. In fact it should be counted as my first roped lead as the easy run out pitch on Aladdins Mirror Direct doesn't count IMO.
Used the new knee brace over the weekend and the knee wasn't an issue - 4 weeks since I tore the medial and apart from being a bit niggly it coped and the brace did what it was supposed to do and stopped the cartilage popping out.
Fingers are getting better, not stiff in the mornings now. Gently tried hanging open handed and that was a bit sore but a half crimp is fine. Still gonna take it easy for a while tho.
Had a pretty good week. Last week's goals:
2 x core & fingerboard. Days are planned, I will FORCE myself! - Tick... but was pretty halfhearted!
Probably won't make it to the wall as I spent far too much over the weekend. - I did actually :-)
2 x bike to work - One done
2 x short runs - 3 done
1 x long run - Fail
M: Core - tried a 20min 'extreme core' youtube workout, got about 8 mins in before collapsing into a heap. I'll try a slightly less intensive one this week, but liked the video format, it forces me to do more.
T: Lunchtime run, 20mins of mud.
W: Biked to and from work
T: Bingley wall. Maybe one new blue I think? Felt a bit uninspired though. FB and feet-on campusboard after.
F: Lunchtime run, 4.8km, 26mins
S: Parkrun - first time I've been down to this. 25:38 and 5th female, happy enough. Could have pushed harder so should do sub25 next time.
Fingerboard and core. Felt very weak on the FB and very uninspired by it.
S: Central Gully Left Branch on Great End. Led one easy pitch, got very cold hands through the crux! Continued over to Scafell then back via the Corridor Route - around 13km total. Great day out. Also TR'd a little icefall at the top of Piers Gill, bridgy, chandeliery corner, fantastic fun, probably WI4+ or 5-.
Goals for this week:
- 2 short runs - new lunchtime running 'league' at work so had better make an impression!
- 2 wall sessions, one on ropes. Depot and Leeds or Harrogate wall - bored of Bingley again now.
- 2 core - find a youtube workout of a level to push me but not totally destroy me.
- 2 fingerboard. Find some elastic to take some bodyweight, it's just too hard (and depressing!) trying to do anything with full bodyweight and I need to get on it if I want to meet any of my goals this year.
- Scotland this weekend - looks like we'll have missed the best of the weather, but hopefully some stuff will still be in and not too cold & snowy. Lead a III.
- 3 x bike to work - a new shiny green machine has just landed in the office, lunchtime was spent building it, and I'm PSYCHED for mountain bike season!
Finally feel like I'm (almost) injury and lurgy free, seems like the start of this year has disappeared far too fast with little achieved so I'm excited to start hitting things a little harder again now.
STG: Stick to the training plan.
LTG(2013): Redpoint sport 7b, 1 e3, 1 e2 that plenty of people think is e3.
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Fat %: 12
Focus: Local Endurance(4/4)
Key weaknesses: Spotting sequences. Repertoire of moves. FoF.
Tue: Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V2).
Thu: Core. Arc(30 mins). Repeaters.
Fri: Bouldering(18 @f6a).
Sun: Core. Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V2). Repeaters.
Missed the training plan again, though closer than usual....
Felt good on the sessions earlier in the week but felt really tired Friday through Sunday. Today I know that's because I am coming down with illness.
I am away this weekend. Not expecting to hit the target as I feel ill but just incase.
Plan for next week:
Tues: Fingerboard * 2.
Wed: Wall session.
Thur or Sun: Arc & 4x4.
Los Pinos is a bit sharp isn't it ?
Good routes to redpoint though as the difficulties are soon over and you then just have to grit your teeth and bear the pain.
Moving house and work has meant no exercise at all this week - unless you count shifting furniture and heavy boxes.
Just about done now though so back to it this week.
I seem to go through phases where life gets in the way and i can go a few weeks without any meaningful climbing. This has happened to me since coming back from Morocco. I have now made a deal with Mrs Biscuit where i will get 1 day out a week no matter what. It should help keep things ticking over.
I have got saturday booked for climbing at a new place to me so should be fun. I am going to have a mileage session and do some falling practice as my head is not strong.
This weeks goals:
1 routes session - lots of falling
2 FB sessions ( not going to get board up this week
1 weighted pull ups
2 x swim
2 x bike
Thanks for the suggestions. I shall have a read of your blog posts when I get a chance.
I've never been to Gorges du Loup, I think we have a guide book that covers it though so I shall have a look. Tufas are not really my thing though (yet), I always find them really hard.
We went to Verdon a few years ago, we were climbing much lower grades then so it might be worth another look now, it was certainly a lovely area. I looked up Rattlesnake, an overhanging tufa, and I'm not great on tufas, or overhangs. I think it might be a challenge too far for a first 7b!
We stopped at Ceuse on our way home last year for a day just to check it out. I think we got the hottest day of the year, it was sweltering even up at the crag. It was nice though, if a little busy and not that much to warm up on. I tried a lovely 7a wall climb (definitely more my style) but it was just too hot for it.
Trying to avoid the Chamonix area this year in an attempt to save money! I think I have been to Barberine before and loved it, we will definitely go back sometime, just not this year.
That's a bit crap. The car parking is visible from the road. What an idiot doing it in full view.
Did you not go to the crag i can't remember the name of with the superheroes sector ?
Friendly rock and amazing long routes.
Forada, but would probably have been brutally cold in February. High, north facing and catches some wicked cold breezes (awesome crag though).
pork pie girl we met at Pena Roja, I was the scruffy chap grumbling my way up the route immediately right of you in pretty poor style. I think everything felt hard that day...
went to both sectors.. the uppere one and the lower one ..i really liked it apoart from not being able to cope with the sharpness of the rock that day... i got sore fingers the day before trying something fingery so i think that made my skin quite sensitive ... my partner sarah got really upset top roping on one of the 7bs on the upper sector..she suddeb;y felt scared with the height and didn't epect it would feel as over hanging..she took a fit because i didn't lower her down immediately.. thought i'd try encouraging her a bit first ...not a good plan.. so whilst all that was happening this bloke was down at our hire car pushing his luck.. just turned round to catch him as i'd finished lowering sarah.
so not sure if that sector is calle superheroes sector.. but it fits your description.. will go back there again :o)
i had a really hard day there too
Yes, after being to Pinos earlier in the day, my skin was screaming!!
I think some of the routes there are a bit tough, good with it though.
So, the week before last was so useless, climbing-wise, that I completely forgot to post it, and last week wasn't any better! Both weeks I managed one evening toproping session at Redpoint, but didn't do any leading/falling.
Excuses: my main excuse is the same as AJM's - working on the van is taking up all my free time at the moment! I've also been busy at work preparing for a conference at the end of March (usually anyway - today I'm sitting at home with a stinking cold...)
Based on the last few weeks, I think I need to re-evaluate my short term goals. I was interested by the comparison of process vs outcome goals discussed a few weeks ago - all my short-term goals were process goals, so were meant to be within my control, but I've failed at all of them! I've been doing some soul-searching - the overall volume of stuff I set myself was a bit unrealistic (2 wall sessions + 2 strength fingerboard sessions + aerobic training + general fitness + build a camper van + work every week was just too much - for me, anyway), but actually I could have acheived so much more with a bit more organisation - e.g. not skipping wall sessions due to missing the train.
1) Get braver:
Do at least two roped wall sessions a week, and at each one take at least five lead falls from above the bolt.
Fail: only been managing one wall session a week most weeks and have mostly toproped. On the plus side, one session a week was more than I managed last time work got busy, and I've been pushing myself harder than before on toprope
New goal: Keep the Tues night Redpoint session, but add in one more session a week LEADING ONLY at the Warehouse
2) Get stronger:
Pull-up sets twice a week on the large holds on the fingerboard. Work up to being able to do three unassisted pull ups in a row (I can currently do almost one...)
Fail: no excuse here - just haven't tried.
New goal: pull-up sets once a week
3) Get fitter:
Climbing fitness: at least two wall sessions a week (as above), and do some aerobic training on the fingerboard (20-30 mins feet-on hanging, moving hands between holds, in front of TV)
Semi-fail: I was doing well at this until we moved house - then the fingerboard got trapped behind the van ceiling in our junkroom. Ceiling is up now though, so no more excuses...
New goal: get back on the aerobic training once a week
General fitness: sign up for a lunchtime exercise class at the University gym. It's right next to my building so there's no excuse!
Total fail: Just not done this because I was disorganised.
New goal: go swimming one lunchtime a week with some other people from the lab who already do this (if I agree to go with someone I'm less likely to find a reason to put it off til tomorrow...)
So that's four climbing-related things and one lunchtime swim a week - that should be acheivable around everything else if I'm organised...
1) Go to Portland and try to onsight as many 6a's and 6a+'s as I can...
2) New goal: Find a 6c(+) redpoint project to start working - anyone know any good ones near-ish to Cheltenham?
3) New goal: 6a+ onsight in Ceuse in May - hopefully acheivable in a week (can't stay longer due to work) and would be a good indication of whether I've managed to make myself any less scared of falling...
LTG (by January 2014, when we leave for our road trip)
1) I'd like to be at a level where I can onsight 6b consistently, 6b+ with some effort and 6c on a good day when I'm trying really hard.
2) 7a redpoint
Sorry for the super-long post! This has been in the back of my mind for a few weeks now and being stuck in bed with a cold finally gave me time to write it all down...
> I seem to go through phases where life gets in the way and i can go a few weeks without any meaningful climbing.
Ah, this would have been a much less long-winded way of saying what I just posted! I get this too - I go through cycles of deciding that This Is Going To Be The Year I Get Good At Climbing and devising an ambitious training plan, only to abandon it after a week or two because something happens and I get too busy.
Sounds like a good plan! I'm trying to do the same this time - it's really demoralising when you miss a few weeks and end up back at square one. For me, it's always my head that goes massively backwards if I don't climb for a while - a few times I've come back after a break to find I've started getting scared on toprope again...
ANYONE FANCY MALHAM TOMORROW? as in wednesday the 27th Feb
forecast is looking good.. sunshine :o)
come on... i have the day off
Hello all, thanks AJM.
STG: 7b in Spain in march
MTG: E1s and look at E2 in Summer 2013
LTG: not sure
So, got back from catalunya yesterday, had an awesome holiday.
Tues am: Ager, onsight: 2 x 6b then decided it was too cold so went to Tartareu instead.
Tues pm: Tartareu, onsight: 6b+ and 6c and then dogged 7a+. Grade anxiety on the 7a+ and I was shaking like a leaf all the way up. But the top section was pretty hard anyway so I probably wouldn't have got it even if I had been climbing confidently.
Wed am: Coll de Nargo, onsight: just one 6a+ before deciding to try Tres Ponts.
Wed pm: Tres Ponts, brilliant crag. onsight: 2 x 6bs (both brilliant) then top roped a 7a (Pan de Pauta).
Thurs: Tres ponts again, onsight: 2 x 6b (lots of good 6bs there), top roped a 7a twice (Beuno Beuno, also really good) and then RPed it first go.
Fri: Os de Balaguer, onsight: 6a, 6a+, 2 x 6b+ and 6c.
Sat: Perles, onsight: 6a, then messed up a 6b and a 6b+ so RPed them. Redeemed myself by then onsighting a 6c+.
Sun: La Pauta, onsight: 6a+ and 6b+ and then flashed a 7a!! the clips were already in so it seemed rude not to try... before I knew it was at the top! very pleased.
Really good trip away, all the routes I did were really good quality and I'm really pleased to have flashed a 7a, especially as I don't think it was particularly soft for the grade. Also pleased with the 6cs and 6c+ onsights. Really keen now to get on a 7b when I am back there for Nik's coaching holiday in March.
Planning on going there on Thursday if you can swap your day off?
ok doke, meet at 11am at the cove centre parking. My mate Ali coming too. Will text you the same info. Nice one!!
Tufas are a style thing, once they click everything suddenly feels easier. I was fortunate to be out in Loup with some folk who are a bit handy at that sort of thing so picked up some of it by osmosis...
Yeah rattlesnake isn't easy, and there's definitely a bit of tufa pinching for a move, but it is really very good. There's a bit of a fingery start then some easy climbing up a tufa, which is more like big side pull jugs than a tufa, then a rest, a few steep moves into a possible kneebar which is handy for the next clip, then a few powerful tufa moves and then it's more like a technical set of layaway moves up a tufa and then a crack, precise feet and stuff, to a glory jug and the top.
Ceuse - tactics are all in the summer! If you want the lhs you get up early, then climb until about midday and either head down or have a siesta until about 3 when you can start to climb on the right hand side again. Full sun is to be avoided!
Sounds like a cool trip!
Think of wrestling boxes through awkward doorways and the like as the same whole body workout as climbing tufa and take the training :)
Tuesday: 28 mile commute
Wednesday: 28 mile commute
Thursday, Friday, Saturday: Nothing
Sunday: 6.8 mile run.
Trying to get back to the running cause I sort of stopped it for a while.
My favourite bike is now being re-built as we speak so hopefully have that back by the end of the week. Yesss :D
STG: Lose another 10lbs. The weight is dropping off quite nicely at the moment. Good stuff. Just need to tone up a bit...
LTG: Lead 7a.
Well done on the 7a flash!
Continuous - Shoulder / knee rehab / ankle strengthening
STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 12st 4lbs
- 3 core work outs, 2 runs, 1 climbing session (1/2 silent footwork & half sideways climbing)
- Soup for lunch and eggs for breakfast. Sensible evening meals.
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minux etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st
Weight - 12st 5lb (1lb overall)
2 core, 1 run (now injured, but swim instead) & 1 bouldering session
diet goals all ticked
M - Core
T - 8k run
W - Core
T - 30 mins swim
F - Bouldering
S - Rest
S - Rest
Have hurt my big toe somehow, so can't run on it. Not sure what I've done, but it aches quite a lot. So resting it for a week or so. The bouldering session was probably the worst bouldering session ever. Got very tired quickly. Managed the footwork stuff ok, but don't feel like I made any progress. As a result I'm feeling quite disheartened in general. On holiday now so hopefully things will get better.
Next weeks goals
3 core, 2 cardio, 1 boulder
diet - on holiday to try and limit boozing and eating crap where possible (might fail at this!)
It sounds like your OH is a climber, so hopefully that should make getting out easier. If your OH doesn't like climbing much it's much harder, trust me. However, if you've got a training plan, it's worth continuing with it, even if you have missed a week. Missing a couple of sessions isn't the end of the world, but not doing the plan at all is.
Trying to get to around 10min mile mark constant which felt like a good pace as right now I languish between 11 and 12. Not trying hard enough...
That's me !
If i don't regularly climb i lose my head game very quickly. I climbed last week and warmed up OK, shook my way up a 6c+ retro flash and then got totally freaked out on an amazing route on a top rope. Really disappointing. I went back to the 6's and had to shout take on a 6b+. I was terrified, over gripping, hesitant, couldn't route read etc.
This weekend i am going to fall on my first route ( on purpose ) and then take it easy getting mileage in.
I often find that it only takes the one session like this to get me back to it but manning up to take the fall is the big hurdle. Once i've done it, and i keep regularly pushing myself and falling it becomes a minor issue and climbing becomes a pleasure again.
Easy to write hard to do but i've told my partner for Sat that's what i am doing and written it on here so that helps me to commit to it.
Good trip and nice one on the 7a flash :0)
Oh and the equally impressive 6c+ on-sight.
Better update your profile on hardest flash/onsight then :P
ta v much! chuffed :-)
biscuit..i was a jibbering wreck on my first climb of the trip last week...which was 6a... then got on a 7a and settled right down..but still felt the need to rest before making the next moves at the crux..i often get too excited and can't believe i'm managing to almost onsight a harder route... so end up messing up
no matter how much i climb i am usually a mess on my first route of the day... i even feel frightened on a top rope sometimes... sometimes it seems like the rock is moving (like i actually see if move under my hand)and i get slight dizzy spells sometimes...it's annoying but something i accept more now... if it didn't settle down after the first climb or two then i wouldn't climb because it's so unpleasant.
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