/ Tizgut Crack

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steveb2006 - on 24 Feb 2013
Any info about Tizgut Crack? (Morocco Anti Atlas)- like how do you get to start - in the topo in old Claude Davies guide page 116 (and dont have book to hand at moment) it seems to start in middle of crag. Do you need to abb to it from terrace/ramp above Tizgut arete etc.

Or does it start much lower and line is hidden in photo, with route S3 - Tizgut Buttress crossing it.

Are big cams useful/mandatory on it?

Any info appreciated thanks

Steve
Steve Broadbent - on 24 Feb 2013
In reply to steveburns:
The topo in the Cicerone guide is not clear, but it is very obvious when you actually get there. It's a simple walk up (about 30 mins) from Tizgut and the Crack is up the gorge on your right hand side - you won't miss it!

It's pretty wide and unrelenting... Of course it can be climbed without big cams - Joe Brown was well-known for his antics involving chockstones being hauled up in helmets... and I think this is the source of the slight grade debate. It's E1 / E2 (5b) in the new guidebook, with most people reporting hard for E1 but not E2 if you've got some big cams. Without big gear the consensus seems to be steady at E2, though I don't know exactly what different people mean by 'big'! Personally I think it's E2 5b, and one of the best routes in Tafraoute.

It is indeed crossed by 'Tizgut Buttress' at mid-height (round about the belay at the top of the first pitch.) The first pitch is superb and sustained (5b). The second pitch has a move over worrying rock and then a really hard pull up a short overhanging corner (possibly even the technical crux). Third pitch is super-easy exit groove. Descent straightforward to the right.
TRip - on 24 Feb 2013
In reply to Steve Broadbent:

>
> It is indeed crossed by 'Tizgut Buttress' at mid-height (round about the belay at the top of the first pitch.) The first pitch is superb and sustained (5b). The second pitch has a move over worrying rock and then a really hard pull up a short overhanging corner (possibly even the technical crux). Third pitch is super-easy exit groove. Descent straightforward to the right.

Hey Steve,

I've not done Tizgut Crack, but have done Tizgut Buttress. Whilst I aggree with you it is good, it is nowhere near sustained 5b. Felt like standard VS/HVS climbing to me. Certainly not sustained 5b, which I would expect to be E1.

Cheers,

Tom
Ron Kenyon - on 25 Feb 2013
In reply to TRip:

We did Tizgut Crack some time again - but we (I) chickened out on the second pitch - this was quite a worrying place - can't remember which way we went from there.

Pitch One was probably worth E1

We did a route called Tizgud Crack up the arete left of Tizgut Eliminate which we reckoned was E2 and worth doing - see below -

TIZGUD CRACK E2 120m
Start 10m left of Tizgut Eliminate below the left-hand of two twin cracks
1 45m (5b) Climb the crack with difficulty at “Amen Corner”. Continue up crack and groove above, avoiding leftward slanting crack, on the right, then move left move up left to belay ledge on Ahmed.
2 45m (5a) Move rightwards round rib to bottom of the upper crack. Climb this a short way then move rightwards to gain good holds above on the wall to move back left into the crack. Follow the crack in a superb position to its top.
3 30m (4c) Move up and climb the wall above, with welcome holds, to easier rock and the top.
Ron Kenyon, Chris King (alt leads) 23.10.04


Or wait for Steve's guide !
Steve Broadbent - on 25 Feb 2013
In reply to TRip:
Oops! Sorry, I was talking about Tizgut Crack, not Tizgut Buttress! Having re-read my post I see the confusion now...
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steveb2006 - on 25 Feb 2013
Thanks all, thats very helpful

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