Topic - Grivel G12 Newmatic-Crampomatic conversion -longer f points
| by - Garbhanach on - 26 Feb 2013
|Grivel G12 Newmatic - Crampomatic conversion giving two crampons in one and more front point with narrow welt Scarpa Boots|
I bought a pair of Grivel G12 newmatics in February2012 then purchased a pair of Scarpa Jorasses recently to find there was very little front points showing in front of the narrow toe box of the Scarpa's (see pics below), some had posted on UKC that they had bent the front posts back on the G12 for these boots but that looked like putting a lot of stress on an area that has been shown to fracture with Black Diamond Sabertooth stainless crampons.
So I bought a pair of Grivel G20 G22 bales from Needlesports http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Winter-Climbing-Equipment/Crampons/Crampon-Spares/Grivel/G20-F...
and bored some holes in the Grivel G12 Newmatics to convert to Crapomatic, these chromolly steel crampons are tough I broke about 4 Bosch titanium drills at near a fiver each, and the jobs taking a bit of time though someone with a proper workshop could do it quicker and probably better, 4mm for the main hole and used the side of a 3.5 to make the slotted keyhole shape.
The wire bale is getting very near to the front posts as you will see in the pic link below and the second one will be drilled slightly further back, the conversion feels quite solid I cannot shift the boot plus the posts would stop any movement of the bale.
This might look a bit weird but it gives a crampon which you can use with boots with or without front crampon welts and increases the front points wuth certain Scarpa models, Grivel do a G12 Crampomatic version so you are putting holes where Grivel puts holes the only problem could be the heat generated in drilling, will post again if
they break or any problems
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