/ Lake District best crags and routes
By definition the Lakes is better than anywhere else so just rock up to any of the crags and enjoy.
If its in the selective guide its going to be good.
or is there a market for a selective selected guide for the hard of choice-making?
ALC is right, anything in the lakes will be amazing. Troutdale Pinnacle Superdirect on Black Crag is a nice, friendly HVS too.
The most reliable crag is Gimmer. The uber-classic HVS is Kipling Groove, But the single pitch routes on the front (F route, Whit's End Direct and Springbank) are some of the best pitches in the country.
Pavey is great too. The combination of Arcturus and Golden Slipper tackles the whole crag in 6 pitches and includes some very memorable climbing. Aardvark and the main pitch of Astra are tremendous pitches too.
I did kind of laugh at your OP for the same reasons but I can see where you're coming from and I would add the following :
1. Gimmer in Langdale
2. Pavey in Langdale
3. Sergeants Crag Slabs in Borrowdale
4. High Crag in Buttermere
Shepherds in Borrowdale is supposed to be a Lakeland version of Tremadog but, even though there's some good routes, it isn't.
Except the routes on Scafell.
Not mentioned routes - just look for lines you fancy!
It's got a lot of trees, the routes are invisible until you're on them, and there's a cafe at the bottom. Give or take the quality of the routes, I think they've got quite a lot in common!
Well, that's the point isn't it. The quality of the routes. I love the lakes but I draw the line here..,
This from the man who's been known to recommend Head End Quarry? ;-)
I used to be firmly in the anti-Shepherd's camp too but I've had a couple of great days there early in the year (March-ish) when the crag's been quiet and if you take it for what it is (i.e. well-used valley cragging) it's actually rather fun - steep, juggy, well protected climbing in the main; if it's not rammed with people what's not to like? I'm not saying it's better than Pavey, Scafell etc, but it has its place.
The Lakes is a bit different to North Wales.
With a few notable exceptions the best routes are on the high mountain crags, rather than the road side/valley crags.
Whilst there is nothing wrong with Shepherds and there are some great routes there, it isn't in the same league as Tremadog. (To Pagan - I can't belive you've never climbed at Tremadog!)
The select guide will see you right.
You'll love the folling routes
Raindrop, Mortian and Troutdale Pinnicle Superdirect at Black Crag.
Kippling Groove, F Route at Gimmer
Tresspasser Groove, Centrall Pillar and Red Edge at Esk Buttress.
Centaur of Scafell East Buttress
Philistine on High Crag
Eliminate A on Dow - best done in big boots.
Loads of good stuff on Castle Rock
Iron Crag isn't in the select guide, but is home to Hiddenite one of the best E2s around.
The Lakes is amazing, you'll have a blast. As you around over Easter? I'll be up then. Are you climbing with Ellie, you're both welcome to crash at mine.
Indeed. Or Astra. Or Fastburn. Or Equus. But apart from those, Central Pillar is pretty ace.
Incidentally, have you been up to Iron Crag? The E2s up there are great - Hiddenite is especially good; the bottom third's a bit bobbins but the rest more than makes up for it.
It has its place.... (and not as a dry tooling venue either!)
I'm hoping this year is less of a wash out in the Lakes whenever I'm up. Last year's visits all seemed to coincide with rain of biblical proportions.
> Incidentally, have you been up to Iron Crag? The E2s up there are great - Hiddenite is especially good; the bottom third's a bit bobbins but the rest more than makes up for it.
No, it's never really been on my radar like Neckband, Flat Crags, Hardknott and Raven (Threshwaite) which I'm really keen to get to. Will look it up.
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