/ Lake District best crags and routes

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JezH on 27 Feb 2013
I have the selected guide, but to save reading it cover to cover (I'll do that later) what are the must visit crags and good routes to do for someone climbing up to E2?

Thanks.
Rog Wilko on 27 Feb 2013
In reply to JezH: Words fail. Or is this a troll?
a lakeland climber on 27 Feb 2013
In reply to JezH:

By definition the Lakes is better than anywhere else so just rock up to any of the crags and enjoy.

ALC
GrahamD - on 27 Feb 2013
In reply to JezH:

If its in the selective guide its going to be good.
Bulls Crack - on 27 Feb 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:
> (In reply to JezH) Words fail. Or is this a troll?

or is there a market for a selective selected guide for the hard of choice-making?
JezH on 27 Feb 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:
> (In reply to JezH) Words fail.
For such a simple question? A simple 'Crag x is great, check out routes y and z' would have done.

Cheers

LakesWinter on 27 Feb 2013
In reply to JezH: Pavey Ark is a great crag, better than Gimmer if you want harder routes. Try Arcturus at E1, Rake End Wall at VS and Golden Slipper at HVS for a classic day out. I've not done anything harder there so cant comment further.

ALC is right, anything in the lakes will be amazing. Troutdale Pinnacle Superdirect on Black Crag is a nice, friendly HVS too.
JezH on 27 Feb 2013
In reply to LakesWinter: Great, Thanks.
Jon Stewart - on 27 Feb 2013
In reply to JezH: The best crag (in England) by a mile is Scafell, with Central Buttress the uber-classic E1, and Saxon a significant step up from there. The East Buttress has loads of classic routes. However, it takes a heatwave to make the place climbable (and the crux of Saxon is permadamp).

The most reliable crag is Gimmer. The uber-classic HVS is Kipling Groove, But the single pitch routes on the front (F route, Whit's End Direct and Springbank) are some of the best pitches in the country.

Pavey is great too. The combination of Arcturus and Golden Slipper tackles the whole crag in 6 pitches and includes some very memorable climbing. Aardvark and the main pitch of Astra are tremendous pitches too.
The Ex-Engineer - on 27 Feb 2013
In reply to JezH: Do Central Pillar on Esk Buttress and then you can just forget about everything else, as it won't be as good ;-)
Skyfall - on 27 Feb 2013
In reply to JezH:

I did kind of laugh at your OP for the same reasons but I can see where you're coming from and I would add the following :

1. Gimmer in Langdale
2. Pavey in Langdale
3. Sergeants Crag Slabs in Borrowdale
4. High Crag in Buttermere
5. Scafell

Shepherds in Borrowdale is supposed to be a Lakeland version of Tremadog but, even though there's some good routes, it isn't.
Jon Stewart - on 27 Feb 2013
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:
> (In reply to JezH) Do Central Pillar on Esk Buttress and then you can just forget about everything else, as it won't be as good ;-)

Except the routes on Scafell.
Skyfall - on 27 Feb 2013
6. Black Crag in Borrowdale

Not mentioned routes - just look for lines you fancy!
Jon Stewart - on 27 Feb 2013
In reply to Skyfall:
> (In reply to JezH)

> Shepherds in Borrowdale is supposed to be a Lakeland version of Tremadog but, even though there's some good routes, it isn't.

It's got a lot of trees, the routes are invisible until you're on them, and there's a cafe at the bottom. Give or take the quality of the routes, I think they've got quite a lot in common!
Skyfall - on 28 Feb 2013
In reply to Jon Stewart

> Give or take the quality of the routes, I think they've got quite a lot in common!

Well, that's the point isn't it. The quality of the routes. I love the lakes but I draw the line here..,
Carolyn - on 28 Feb 2013
In reply to Skyfall:

This from the man who's been known to recommend Head End Quarry? ;-)
Pagan - on 28 Feb 2013
In reply to Skyfall:

I used to be firmly in the anti-Shepherd's camp too but I've had a couple of great days there early in the year (March-ish) when the crag's been quiet and if you take it for what it is (i.e. well-used valley cragging) it's actually rather fun - steep, juggy, well protected climbing in the main; if it's not rammed with people what's not to like? I'm not saying it's better than Pavey, Scafell etc, but it has its place.
TRip - on 28 Feb 2013
In reply to JezH:

Hey Jez,

The Lakes is a bit different to North Wales.

With a few notable exceptions the best routes are on the high mountain crags, rather than the road side/valley crags.

Whilst there is nothing wrong with Shepherds and there are some great routes there, it isn't in the same league as Tremadog. (To Pagan - I can't belive you've never climbed at Tremadog!)

The select guide will see you right.

You'll love the folling routes

Raindrop, Mortian and Troutdale Pinnicle Superdirect at Black Crag.
Kippling Groove, F Route at Gimmer
Tresspasser Groove, Centrall Pillar and Red Edge at Esk Buttress.
Centaur of Scafell East Buttress
Philistine on High Crag
Eliminate A on Dow - best done in big boots.
Loads of good stuff on Castle Rock

Iron Crag isn't in the select guide, but is home to Hiddenite one of the best E2s around.

The Lakes is amazing, you'll have a blast. As you around over Easter? I'll be up then. Are you climbing with Ellie, you're both welcome to crash at mine.

TR
Pagan - on 28 Feb 2013
In reply to Jon Stewart:

> Except the routes on Scafell.

Indeed. Or Astra. Or Fastburn. Or Equus. But apart from those, Central Pillar is pretty ace.

Incidentally, have you been up to Iron Crag? The E2s up there are great - Hiddenite is especially good; the bottom third's a bit bobbins but the rest more than makes up for it.
Skyfall - on 28 Feb 2013
In reply to Carolyn:

> This from the man who's been known to recommend Head End Quarry? ;-)

It has its place.... (and not as a dry tooling venue either!)

I'm hoping this year is less of a wash out in the Lakes whenever I'm up. Last year's visits all seemed to coincide with rain of biblical proportions.
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Lord_ash2000 - on 28 Feb 2013
In reply to JezH: Bram Crag Quarry is where it's at.
A Mountain Journey - on 28 Feb 2013
In reply to JezH: The selected guide is full of brilliant routes. Just back from an afternoon at White Ghyll in Langdale. Brilliant crag
Jon Stewart - on 28 Feb 2013
In reply to Pagan:
> (In reply to Jon Stewart)
>
> Incidentally, have you been up to Iron Crag? The E2s up there are great - Hiddenite is especially good; the bottom third's a bit bobbins but the rest more than makes up for it.

No, it's never really been on my radar like Neckband, Flat Crags, Hardknott and Raven (Threshwaite) which I'm really keen to get to. Will look it up.

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