/ A Days Pack
I've got a 32l sack and inside it can fit...
a small/half rack
60m Half rope
Synthetic belay jacket
Couple of pairs of gloves
1l bottle of water
Foil sleeping bag thing
Crampons and axes on the outside.
Over trousers and jacket go in too if not being worn
It's a bit of a squeeze but it does the job.
Usually make do with a 32 litre pack, but have a 50+10 for everything that's not big enough for.
Emergency GPS. Dont use it.
Spare batteries (for headtorch or GPS)
Cheap orange survival bag.
4 choc bars.
caffeine + paracetamol tablets.
Goretex trousers, jacket, Gloves and Hat normally stay in sack until gearing up.
Then harness, rope, rack (or part of), helmet. Axes and crampons.
Once geared up my sack is virtually empty.
I use a 45 litre Macpac Pursuit Classic. Its a bit of a beast when full but I carry as standard in winter:
Map, compass, headtorch plus spares.
Mobile phone. I have an EPIRB if I'm solo but will leave behind if there are 2 of us.
Big gloves, small gloves and emergency mitts (poss more depending on weather)
Hat and spare balaclava
Synthetic duvet jacket.
Waterproof trousers (I wear Paramo Aspira smock so this is usually on, not in pack)
One of us will have the 1st aid kit and the other may carry a bothy or snow shovel, depending on whether we are walking/climbing (leave this behind if climbing).
Tons of food (I'm a pig and I get low blood sugar quite easily)
1 litre of hot squash.
Crampons/axe/rope/rack etc depending on activity
I expect this is more than most people but I like a bit of comfort on the hill.
For winter, from bottom up:
Silver survival bag (unless we're cutting grams)
Lightest cheapest throwaway waterproof trousers
Winter Rack (set of wires, torque nuts, couple of hexes to fill in the gaps, QDs, Bug, HMS, screws, slings)
Half rope either 30m (solo days, mountaineering/moving together, mmmmm... nice and light...) or 50m (climbing)
2 x torch
Axes, helmet and gaiters strapped outside, map or guidebook in softshell pocket.
All this in a 35 litre pack (just). Have I forgotten anything? It would all go much better in a 40 litre. Sometimes it's easier to just wear the rack from the off. It seems to me to weigh less on the hips than on the back and creates plenty of space in the pack. Anyone else feel that way?
> No harness?
Oh yeah, I might have one of those... Doh!
So why not use a 40l sack then?
Don't cams and hexes bouncing around your thighs drive you nuts?
Well it doesn't!
> So why not use a 40l sack then?
> Don't cams and hexes bouncing around your thighs drive you nuts?
> Well it doesn't!
Don't underestimate the mind's ability to fool itself!!
Belay jacket (mitts in the pockets)
Helmet (lunch stowed inside)
Litre of water or flask of fruit tea
In the lid goes map, compass, buff, headlamp etc. Axes got on the compression straps. Got a 3/4 foam mat cut up to fit into the bladder pouch as a lightweight back support or emergency bivi mat if shit hits the fan (also works well for flaking the rope in summer)Just about all fits into a 35l but i'm too poor to afford anything bigger which is as good as my current sack.
Carry whatever else in my pockets.
Did I mention Haribo?!
Some days I could certainly get away with a smaller pack. However, with the Alpine 50 I can always get everything I need packed inside which wouldn't be the case with something smaller.
I haven't done it yet, but it can be stripped down if I did want to cut weight so I see little to be gained, for me at least, in having a pack in the 40 litre range.
For summer rock routes and the Alps something much smaller is probably ideal.
This is for the walk in
Helmet and rope (these fit on special straps sort of outside the lid)
Soft Shell Gloves
Soft Shell Jacket
Hardshell Jacket and Trew
Shovel and Probe (when appropriate)
Half the rack (normally a few screws, a hex or two, half a set of nuts, 2/3 cams and a few quickdraws/slings)
Harness + belay device
Goggles/Sunglasses in case
bit of a snack (normally a pack of moralibo)
Foil bag thing
Probably a few other small bits and bobs I forgot.
Its a real squeeze, but as you only really pack this all at the car/back on a nice bit of ground it seems worth it to me.
When climbing? In pack is just hardshells, water and snack, belay jacket, gaitors and spare gloves. The sack just looks empty.
I read that as a bit of smack haha
Exactly. Mine doesn't have an extending lid, but I get all that in at the start cinched up tight, so a little looser and it fits fine, just a tiniest bit less head movement. Teaches you not to look up!
And not getting caught up has huge advantages
60 meter rope
Half a rack
Soft shell gloves
Patagonia nano puff
Half liter water
Axes outside all in a osprey mutant 28 without the lid
What are people doing with their gaitors in their sack? What's that all about?
Pretty much the same except no belay jacket but add camera and first aid kit. Axes and crampons on outside of sack. Easy in a 35litre sack, needs a bit of thought with a 30 litre one.
I was reading this thread and wondering at all the people who only take half a rack and a half rope with them, then it suddenly occurred to me. I've been carrying all my partners gear and mine. In all fairness they normally carry my lunch.
Fair enough (I don't use them at all now I have some flashy soft shell trousers with built in mini gaiters), but someone said they would be in their sack while climbing!
Lots of people NOT carrying first aid kits which is pretty incredible really.
Paracetamol and Caffeine I carry as they can be very useful. Cleaning out wounds or something isnt something I would likely be doing on the hill. If I needed to stop blood flowing I can always improvise with many bits of kit or clothing.
What exactly do you have in your first aid kit? Defib? Surgical kit? :)
All you really need is a bandage, a couple of plasters, a small amount of zinc tape and some paracetamol in a plastic bag, weighs next to nothing.
That would be me if there wasn't deep snow on route.
Rack and/or 60m Half rope
Synthetic belay jacket with shell mitts in pockets
1 pairs climbing gloves (swap for walkin gloves after gearing up)
500cl bottle of water/ electrolyte (I drink 1-2 litres at the car beforehand) with duct tape around it
Snacks: nuts, cheese, salami, halva, jelly beans, flapjack etc.
SOL foil bivvy bag
Crampons (one stainless steel ziptie in the bag)
Axes (swap for poles when climbing)
Zip bag with FAK - 4" NATO trauma bandage, naproxen, 10ml woundwash, dioralyte sachet, 1 pair rubber gloves, "hot hands" chemical handwarmers
Last week was one of those very rare occasions where the forecast was so solid that I didn't wear or take waterproofs.
You don't really need very much for a first aid kit, so I take one, it contains:
that's it. If immobilisation is needed there are enough slings/ropes/axes around to bodge something, tampons fill puncture wounds, held in by tape, pills stop it hurting/swelling.
That will be enough to wait for the MRT... though not taking one, not too much of a problem really, it will just hurt more, puncture wounds can be filled with fingers/clothes etc.
"I dont take spare layers or stuff I wont definately use any more as it just slows me down."
So you don't have spare layers but you can stem bloodflow with many bits of clothing? Bits of clothing you should be wearing as you don't carry any spare presumably. In winter.
A first aid kit of a few banadages, a bit of tape and some dressings (more absorbant than primaloft I find) weighs about 150g and packs into a space the size of a rolled up pair of socks. I'm not one of these St John's ambulance nerds for whom first aid is a hobby, but I always carry a first aid kit.
I was surprised that many people were not carrying anything at all.
I respect your right, but I go onto the hills with the attitude that I will get off again on my own. My kit reflects that and I don't base it on 'waiting for MRT' which could take many hours to happen and relies on volunteers. I find it odd that you carry tampons but not bandages.
Anyway, I never wanted to turn this into a first aid kit debate (which can rage for hours) so I'll bow out now. Carry on.
I reckon I could sacrifice the sleeve of my micro fleece or another layer in an emergency. A piece of cord, a sling. Strapping from my rucksack. The spare bootlace I carry. I might consider some dressing so consider your job done. ;)
haha, yeah I agree about not turning it into a first aid debate.
Very briefly, the reason for tampons not bandages is that they are VERY absorbent, fit into puncture wounds better, can be pulled apart and taped onto cuts, so do all that bandages can do plus more.
Re waiting for MRT, in general I agree with you, but some injuries will be too severe for this, others will be time critical. If with a lot of pills for the pain, some strapping to keep things still and an attempt at stopping blood loss you still can't get down on your own, it is IMHO time to get on the phone. Even with a full trauma kit I doubt I'd be able to get someone that badly injured off on my own.
Anyway, its a personal choice - I don't think there is a right or wrong answer at all.
Shake the bag about. The rope fills the dead spaces
Elsewhere on the site
This Winter Conditions page gives a summary of what is being climbed at the moment, what is 'in' nick and what the prospects are... Read more
Tonight's Friday Night Video features the Norwegian town of Rjukan, once believed to be the home of the world's tallest... Read more
F ounded in 1993, Mountain Hardwear are a pretty young mountaineering clothing and equipment manufacturer but are also one of... Read more
Rock shoes stink – let’s face it. Boot Bananas are the perfect way to fight the funk and keep them fresh. They help... Read more
Perhaps the perfect Xmas gift for the climber in your life... Wild Country's Crack School has two of the worlds best crack... Read more
With four photos in this week's top ten, and a UKC gallery of stunning images we thought it was time we had a chat with... Read more