/ Stopping the Pump

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Philoosh - on 27 Feb 2013
Hi guys and dolls,
How do I stop the pump in my forearms in order to climb longer? Any tips and tricks?

Cheers

Jon Stewart - on 27 Feb 2013
In reply to Philoosh:

Climb hundreds and hundreds of routes.

To build endurance, I do sessions of about 25-30 routes (well below my onsight limit of course, many as laps on top-rope). If you do that 3x week for a couple of months, you shouldn't get nearly as pumped as you do now.
Daniel Heath - on 27 Feb 2013
In reply to Philoosh:

I think you can attack this from a few angles.

Physical:
Train endurance (get pumped) to improve your tolerance to lactic acid

Technical:
Efficient climbing to save energy

Tactical:
Clipping in the right places
Finding rest positions
Climb faster through hard bits
Jimbo C - on 27 Feb 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Just what I was going to say, more or less.

OP - when shaking out, shake above and below your head, this helps to get fresh blood into your pumped muscles and remove the lactic soaked blood.
shark - on 27 Feb 2013
In reply to Philoosh:

Stab them with a pin to release the pressure
Philoosh - on 27 Feb 2013
In reply to Jimbo C: Why shake above rather than below. I heard this before but never understood why
Philoosh - on 27 Feb 2013
In reply to shark: Reminder to oneself. carry a pin within my gear!!
Jimbo C - on 27 Feb 2013
In reply to Philoosh:

It's supposed to be so that gravity can drain some of the blood and lactic acid from your arms before you shake below to allow fresh blood back in. That's the theory, in practice the difference may only be slight (or only psychological) but I often give it a go out of habit when mega pumped.

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