/ Iceland Easter

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johnmctighe - on 28 Feb 2013
Howdy,
I'm heading to Iceland for Easter on a family holiday & I was wondering if any of the ice routes would still be in condition...
If so - can anyone put me in touch with a local guide who could take me up a few WI4-WI5 routes? (2 days would be all I could swing)
I'd only be able to bring axes & crampons and other personal gear & would be relying on someone providing rope, screws etc
Thanks...


phizz4 - on 28 Feb 2013
In reply to johnmctighe: I've been to Iceland twice at Easter (not climbing). On neither occasion did I see any substantial ice, although my visits were mainly to the south coast as far as the ice lagoon. The web cams from there ( www.livefromiceland.is/) suggest that it is quite mild there at the moment (the lake in central Reykjavik is usually frozen at this time of the year). If you do a search for ice climbing in Iceland you will come up with a couple of companies that should be able to help, e.g. www.adrenalin.is . We use them to take school parties walking on the glacier.
mike_uk82 - on 28 Feb 2013
In reply to johnmctighe: while I can't accurately speak about Iceland climbing I can say this.
You will be surprised how mild the weather is in the south and lowlands. There should be ice in the mountains but the weather is incredibly unstable and trips can be cut short. I don't know your route but if your staying near Reykjavik it will be a few hours drive to anywhere suitable.

We used a mountain guide company for a simple glacier tour. But the guide was a keep ice climber and did such tours. Ill root out his details and post them here.
Davy Virdee - on 28 Feb 2013
In reply to phizz4:

It depends entirely which part of the island you visit. I climbed there in April 2007. There was a massive thaw around Reyjavik but up north it was ice central.

The icelandic alpine club is a good source of information and they can be very helpful.

Some links:

http://www.mountainactive.co.uk/blog/2011/05/25/iceland-climbing/

mike_uk82 - on 28 Feb 2013
In reply to mike_uk82: http://www.mountainguides.is/ it was this company we used.

Good luck
Solaris - on 28 Feb 2013
In reply to mike_uk82:
> (In reply to johnmctighe)
> You will be surprised how mild the weather is in the south and lowlands.

Yes, though it can be pretty parky.

Traffic webcams will give a pretty good idea of what's going on, though they don't cover the highland interior.
See http://www.vegagerdin.is/umferd-og-faerd/vefmyndavelar/sudurland and http://www.vegagerdin.is/english/road-conditions-and-weather/the-entire-country/sw1.html will help locate the cameras.

> There should be ice in the mountains but the weather is incredibly unstable and trips can be cut short. I don't know your route but if your staying near Reykjavik it will be a few hours drive to anywhere suitable.

And getting near mountain ice could be a pretty serious 4WD trip but people like Iceland Mountain Guides are well set up.

This is quite good for an overview: http://www.edinburghjmcs.org.uk/pdfs/iceland.pdf
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Davy Virdee - on 01 Mar 2013
In reply to Solaris:

That's my mate Halli's guide that's in the links above, too.


> This is quite good for an overview: >http://www.edinburghjmcs.org.uk/pdfs/iceland.pdf


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