/ North Wales: Winter approach times?
Yesterday we walked into Trinity face (again a 55min approach according to guidebook) we approached on the Minersí Track and bailed just beyond the convergence with the Pyg Track. It took us at least 90mins to that point, with 300mm of power for last 2-300m of ascent. Now, we are fit enough to do these walks at a steady (conditions dependant) pace without rests. My mate has been winter climbing 7 or 8 weekends on the bounce and weíve had a week in Scotland. Iíve been out on the hill a fair bit, run at home etcÖ
Am I just soft or are these approach times a bit optimistic for these 2 crags, (guidebook is the Rockfax N Wales Classics). Surely with powder snow underfoot and heavy packs one would have to be very fit to walk in at that speed. Incidentally we didnít expect to reach our chosen routes in 55mins, just interested to know others experiences for these winter approaches. Must train harder next winter!
I normally walk into Clogwyn y Garnedd (Trinity face) on the PyG track - this can be done to the gearing up spot in about 1hr 15 minutes and a bit longer to the base of the routes.
The approach to Clogwyn Du/Cwm Cneifion doesn't look like much but for some reason always feels like quite a slog.
Really? That is good going
The curse of the guide book metre strikes again! It's influence is spreading to the guidebook minute...
A fickle beast, the guide book metre can vary wildly from region to region, climb to climb, and even pitch to pitch, and probably depends on the fitness and/or myopia of the guide book writer.
Its spreading to timings is a serious business, it'll be altering grades next...
Clogwyn Ddu is about an hour and a half at a reasonable pace, you'd have to be going at a fair speed to be much quicker than that. It once took me about 2h 15m in deep snow. But my record slowest was over four hours to the base of the crag, that was breaking trail for much of the way in deep snow back in January, taking a very indirect line in poor vis and with a mate who wasn't that fit. Even so, I can barely believe it took so long! Still did the route of course, just had to lead half the top pitch by torchlight.
The real challenge though is to come down exactly the same way you've come up or the way you came down last time! I always seem to end up taking a different path.
Ahhh January... It took us 3 hours to reach a route on Glyder Fach in Jan (19th)! Breaking trail in deep powder and we couldnít find the start, only to be caught up by everybody else, descended by torch light. A very long day. The route we climbed was Square Chimney Buttress, it felt hard, and I was on 2nd
Elsewhere on the site
This Winter Conditions page gives a summary of what is being climbed at the moment, what is 'in' nick and what the prospects are... Read more
Skiing Baffin’s couloirs has been on my to do list ever since I saw Andrew McLean and Brad Barlage’s inspirational... Read more
2014 has been a bumper year for climbing publications. Here's a few of the ones that we have either read, or ones that we... Read more
Nick Livesey discovered the mountains of Snowdonia over a decade ago and finally moved there a year and a half ago, quitting a... Read more
A product review by James Turnbull. James Turnbull at Outside recently took the new Osprey Mutant 38 on a rigorous test in the... Read more
WINTERFEST 2014 at Outside in Hathersage 6th and 7th December 2014 Outside's ever popular Winterfest event is back... Read more