/ Shunting on an Overhang
I have a Petzl Basic (bit like a Shunt, but with teeth) and have used it to top rope practice vertical/slab routes.
My question is can I use it on overhangs to work routes? I see the main problems to be swinging out after falling off, being pulled off by the weight at the bottom of the rope and potentially the basic getting caught on my clothing or harness (potentially pretty dangerous) by the rope being pulled out from the rock.
Any ways to safely get around this?
Thanks in advance.
For a start you should always have the basic backed up with something, even if it's just a large knot in the rope put in at intervals.
If you carry a belay device and a prussic loop you should be able to get out of most situations you find yourself in.
Depending on the size of the overhang you may be ok just tying off to the rope and taking a small fall if you come off on the overhang then taking in the slack on the basic after, thus preventing a longer fall onto the basic.
An alternative to this could be to attach the basic to yourself with a sling and push it up the rope far in front of you so it's clear of clothes and you can push it clear/over the overhangs.
Taking a fall on a basic is a very bad idea.
if you must ,I would suggest you capture the ropes with a crab through the top of the body. Also be very aware of the potential for the rope to damaged at the top so rope protection is a must.
I was thinking about it from the point of the basic slipping due to clothing being jammed in it.
Petzl do state that the basic can be used for self belay but I'd still be keen reduce the slack in the rope to reduce shock loading.
I've only ever used my petzl basic as a safety line when fixing the chimney.
I've got a pair so if I was going to try self bely climbing I'd double the rope over and have one on each strand. Probably not necessary but I'd be happier like this.
Thanks for the replies. I have used the basic successfully in the past, and if set up correctly you never really fall on it as there is no slack, it basically locks automatically.
I think the sling idea is actually pretty dangerous as you risk shock loading the rope/basic.
Thanks, when using it I have always captured the rope with a crab from my harness going directly in the top part of the basic.
It's just using it on an overhang i'm not sure about.
> I think the sling idea is actually pretty dangerous as you risk shock loading the rope/basic.
It shouldn't matter because there will b a little slippage and you are still attached to a dynamic rope.
I use a rolling clovehitch as back up.
Elsewhere on the site
Rock shoes stink – let’s face it. Boot Bananas are the perfect way to fight the funk and keep them fresh. They help... Read more
Tonight's Friday Night Video features the Norwegian town of Rjukan, once believed to be the home of the world's tallest... Read more
F ounded in 1993, Mountain Hardwear are a pretty young mountaineering clothing and equipment manufacturer but are also one of... Read more
Perhaps the perfect Xmas gift for the climber in your life... Wild Country's Crack School has two of the worlds best crack... Read more
With four photos in this week's top ten, and a UKC gallery of stunning images we thought it was time we had a chat with... Read more