/ New Boots required

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Pids - on 25 Mar 2013
My 10 year old scarpa vegas broke at the weekend, can't be readily fixed according to the experts in the shop so need to look at getting a new pair of winter climbing boots, for use in Scotland only, so what should I be looking at?
Need to be B3, what are the current best options?
(and why do they all seem to be around the 300-350 price range, gulp)
cliff shasby - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to Pids: you see little used vegas on fleabay all the time..
In reply to Pids: I've got a pair of size 42 vegas if your interested! Very cheap, just for you mister, as I like you much!

If not, :) what was it you liked and disliked about the Vegas? After them I climbed for the best part of a decade in Nepal Extremes and still think they are superb - super hard wearing and pretty warm. If you want REALLY warm but still lighter and trimmer that Vegas have a look at modern double boots. I have Sportiva Baruntse, pretty light and climb as hard as I possible need them too, but still super warm.

Lamb - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to Pids: The new La Sportiva Batura's are well comfy and snazzy (I've got the old yins), I can certainly vouch for them. My mate likes his Scarpa Phantom Guides too. Depends on the shape of your feet - fat/slim?
Although as you say, you may need to sell off one of your wee lads to buy a pair!
lpretro1 on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to Pids: Have just bought a pair of Nepal Extremes - they are fantastic. OH has had his for years and swears by them. They have been to Alps lots of times, Himlaya and Andes! Comfy warm and not bad to walk in. Very adjustable. Belting sole on them. Wore them for first time in blizzard conditions and deep snow drifts and no rubbing or blisters - just warm comfy feet :)
Michael Gordon - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to TobyA:

Hi Toby, where did you get the Baruntse from? Not sure they're available in the UK.
In reply to Michael Gordon: I bought mine from Telemark Pyrenees late last winter for a remarkably good price (just checked, got 'em for EUR 260, so a bit of a steal). I ordered the same size as my other sportivas and was a worried they were a bit tight at first, but since have thermoformed the inners and they seem just right now.

I'm wearing them in my profile pic, which was about the hardest ice route I've done this winter. So my rather limited abilities are definitely not held back by the boots even if they are considerably heftier than my Trangos, but they are just snuggly when it's -15 or colder, something that my trangos aren't!
Carolyn - on 26 Mar 2013
In reply to Pids:

Go Outdoors (yes, I know....) seem to have Nepal Extremes in at 30% off - so 225. Which doesn't seem a bad offer.
ryan_d - on 26 Mar 2013
In reply to Carolyn: They are the B2 boots. Thought about them myself....eay mistake as they look identical to the B3's and the name is similar too.

Ryan
Double Knee Bar - on 26 Mar 2013
In reply to ryan_d: they are B3s. Just not the evos with extra insulation.
In reply to ryan_d: If you mean http://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/la-sportiva-nepal-extreme-boot-p138988 they are very much "B3", i.e. proper ice climbing boots.

There is some other model sportiva does called Nepal Treks that might be more B2-ish, but I've never seen them for sale in the UK.
n.LiVE - on 26 Mar 2013
Seen as this is a topic I was about to start I figure i'll just ask in here. I was also looking at those nepals in go-outdoors (they are ~100 cheaper than anywhere else!) I currently have Scarpa Cumbres and while they are solid boots and extremely warm, I find they are rubbing like hell around the heels. They have been used for a few years and I guess ive just put up with it using compeeds but this dosent always help in a full day out. Perhaps I have a weird shaped foot or something.
Anyway, as next winter I will have alot more time to climb my question is will my relatively new grivel G14 crampons fit the nepals okay? They fit my scarpas flawlessly.
Thanks!
Euge - on 26 Mar 2013
In reply to n.LiVE:
> Seen as this is a topic I was about to start I figure i'll just ask in here. I was also looking at those nepals in go-outdoors (they are ~100 cheaper than anywhere else!) I currently have Scarpa Cumbres and while they are solid boots and extremely warm, I find they are rubbing like hell around the heels. They have been used for a few years and I guess ive just put up with it using compeeds but this dosent always help in a full day out. Perhaps I have a weird shaped foot or something.
> Anyway, as next winter I will have alot more time to climb my question is will my relatively new grivel G14 crampons fit the nepals okay? They fit my scarpas flawlessly.
> Thanks!

I had to get rid of my Scarpa Cumbres, after 3 seasons of blisters.
Serves me right for buying them 'cos they were cheap!!!

E
In reply to n.LiVE:

> Anyway, as next winter I will have alot more time to climb my question is will my relatively new grivel G14 crampons fit the nepals okay? They fit my scarpas flawlessly.

I don't know but I suspect they will, I've never had any problems getting crampons on my Nepals, and I think I've used them with 4 different types at least.
n.LiVE - on 26 Mar 2013
In reply to Euge: Lucky you, they cost me 300!
Neil Pratt - on 26 Mar 2013
In reply to Pids:

Having bought a pair just after Christmas, I can confirm that the Nepals that Go Outdoors are selling are bog standard B3s just like you'd get anywhere else. It's a wonderfully cosy, solid boot, if a bit on the weighty side compared with some of the newer alternatives. That said the synthetic leather on lightweight B3s isn't nearly so tolerant of crampon-related pratfalls as the proper cow skin the Nepals are made of.

I find La Sportivas in general to have smaller volume heels than Scarpa, which suits me better - I've never had a problem with heel rub since the day I got them, despite having used them for some fairly lengthy days out. If they fit your feet, they're excellent value at 225.
Michael Gordon - on 26 Mar 2013
In reply to TobyA:

Thanks for that. What do you mean 'thermoformed the inners'?
professionalwreckhead - on 26 Mar 2013
In reply to Pids:

I bought some Nepal Extremes last week and have been mighty impressed.

Straight out the box at the weekend- 2 hour walk in, 3 hours ice climbing, 2 hour walk out - not so much as a niggle, supremely comfortable and really warm.

Worth mentioning that Tiso currently have them for 250, which means you will get them for the same price as Go Outdoors if you have a Tiso card. Much better customer service in my experience.
mrchewy - on 26 Mar 2013
In reply to Pids: I'd have thought that if you'd spent 10 years happily comfortable in a Scarpa last, that you'd probably be better off sticking to Scarpa. La Sportiva are quite a bit smaller in the heel for a start.
In reply to Michael Gordon: The inner boot, made by a firm called Palau, is thermoformable, basically you cook them in an oven until the foam softens put them on and stand there for a bit, and once the foam cools it will not be shaped around the shape of your feet, meaning less rubbing or cold spots from pressure - or seemingly for me anyway, none at all.

You can click on the separate picture of the inner boot here: http://www.sportiva.com/products/footwear/mountain/baruntse
Michael Gordon - on 26 Mar 2013
In reply to TobyA:

They sound great, pity they're so difficult to get hold of!
jandyd05 - on 26 Mar 2013
In reply to Pids:
Nepal Extremes are a great boot, they were THE boot in Europe a few years ago. I've used them for 5 years in Scotland and the Alps in Summer, never had a blister or any discomfort and nothing has has broken, though the sole is now pretty worn down. At 225 they are great value. I can also confirm they work well with G14s.

BUT they need to be the right fit for you - as other posts have said I have generally found people split into either Sportiva (narrower) or Scarpa (wider)fit e.g. I just don't get on with Scarpas and I have the receipts and blisters to prove it :-)

The only downside of the Extremes IMO is that they are pretty heavy and don't have the benefits of a double boot if you do multi day stuff.

If you are a Scarpa man you may be able to get Omega plastic double boots at a steal, shops seem to be selling them off - super light for a plastic boot with a thermo-formable intuition liner, like in ski boots.

Alternatively, the Scarpa Phantom Guide or Sportiva Batura / Batura2 look the muts and are superlight if you have money to burn and longevity is not so much of an issue.

I also really liked the look of Baruntses when I did my research, but as others have said they are not available in this country and I wasn't prepared to take the risk of overseas mail-order.

That's my two penneth.
MFB - on 27 Mar 2013
In reply to Pids:

just bought La Sportiva Trango Extreme Evo Light to replace sportiva nepals, they are brilliant, light and climb really well, slippers.

I have not tried cold (hrs on belay type cold) yet so not fully tested

bought at Lakes Climber, 190 also available Nepals 200 - closing down sale
kevinmckinnon - on 27 Mar 2013
In reply to Pids: what size are you? I am selling a pair of brand new still with box Mont Blanc gtx at size uk 8 EU 42 for 220. I have had them on for roughly one hour and soon realised they were the wrong size! If interested e mail me on kevinmckinnonml@icloud.com
In reply to Michael Gordon and jandyd05:

Yep, Sportiva started marketing the Baruntses very oddly. They said for people "working in cold places" or something. Struck me as very weird because they totally rigid, so kind of crappy for just general winter wear compared to something like Sorels, or sorel knockoffs. I think Dane's Cold Thistle blog has probably kick started some interest in the Baruntses - I suspect that's where I first read about them. My local shop in Helsinki started stocking them this winter - I know that will be of no use to you guys but it shows that some specialists shops in Europe are selling that model - the guy there told me he had sold the first pair very quickly to someone of going to Aconcagua, but I suspect other people here will buy them like I did just because they're tired of getting cold feet in the Scandinavian winter when ice climbing but don't want to go back to bulky plastics. I've heard lots of stories of people breaking bits on the Spantiks particularly the lacing, so I like the simplicity of the Baruntses. I always climbed in Scotland in plastic boots, as everyone did back then, and I really don't recall ever having cold feet as a result. I would imagine there might be enough people who get cold feet in light boots in Scotland these days that it might be worth at least one UK shop offer the Baruntses for people who want a lightish modern style boot, but that has the warmth of a double boot and hopefully the longevity of more traditions boots the Nepal Extremes.
nufkin - on 27 Mar 2013
In reply to TobyA:

> I would imagine there might be enough people who get cold feet in light boots in Scotland these days that it might be worth at least one UK shop offer the Baruntses for people who want a lightish modern style boot, but that has the warmth of a double boot and hopefully the longevity of more traditions boots the Nepal Extremes.

You could be right, but unless I'm mistaken Sportiva don't import the Baruntses to the UK
Jamie B - on 27 Mar 2013
In reply to Pids:

Can't see past the Phantom guides for balancing comfort, stiffness and heel support. Best winter boots I've owned.
In reply to nufkin:
> Sportiva don't import the Baruntses to the UK

Sportiva's UK agents are Lyon aren't they? It might be that Lyon don't see a market for them here but I'm sure they could ask for some to be brought to the UK if they wanted.
ryan_d - on 27 Mar 2013
In reply to Neil Pratt: Sorry got mixed up...I was thinking of the trango Extremes. They have a B2 and B3 boot with similar names and design, but one is a B2 and other is B3.

Ryan
Michael Gordon - on 27 Mar 2013
In reply to TobyA:

They also seem to restrict a lot of US online stores from shipping their stuff abroad for some reason? Very odd.

My feet were the coldest they've ever been on sunday, and that was only in Scotland. It was a cold day with a lot of standing around but the Nepals really let me down.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Michael Gordon - on 27 Mar 2013
In reply to TobyA:
> (In reply to Michael Gordon and jandyd05)
>
> My local shop in Helsinki started stocking them this winter

Think they would send a pair to Scotland for a small fee?
In reply to Michael Gordon:

> They also seem to restrict a lot of US online stores from shipping their stuff abroad for some reason? Very odd.

Much easier to buy from elsewhere in the EU, no taxes or customs costs.
Gazlynn - on 27 Mar 2013
In reply to Jamie B:
> (In reply to Pids)
>
> Can't see past the Phantom guides for balancing comfort, stiffness and heel support. Best winter boots I've owned.

Fwiw Agreed

cheers

Gaz
In reply to Michael Gordon:

Maybe - the product page is http://camu.fi/pages/kiipeily/vuorikiipeily/jaakiipeilykengat/baruntsesilver3748.html but perhaps just drop them an email at info@camu.fi The website is all in Finnish which makes it hard to navigate with out knowing any Finnish, but all the guys who work there speak great English so email might be easiest. The boots aren't on sale though sadly.

There's another Finnish webshop that does them too: http://www.varuste.net/en/tuotetiedot2.php?_id=38094&nimi=La+Sportiva+Baruntse but I'm not sure if they really have them in stock or will just order them - because bizarrely they say 3-180 days for delivery!?

You might have more luck with one of the big French, German or Spanish online shops. Barrabes and Globetrotter might be worth a look.
Daniel Caola - on 27 Mar 2013
In reply to Pids: Like others I found scarpa's don't really fit me- I don't know about you- but if you get on better with a narrower fit but would like to stay with plastics, you could try the Lowa Civetta Extreme, they have the low-maintenance benefits of plastics but don't feel at all clumsy. When I tried on a pair of vegas it felt like I had my foot in a plastic bucket by comparison.
Downside is they are hard to get hold of here. You can pick up black german army surplus ones for about 50 but the inners tend to be from older materials, however if you like them after that you can get them on ebay in the US for silly low prices and have them sent over. I just got a lovely red pair for $185 new, with VAT and delivery it was just under 200 total. Try to get the latest model, this has a higher inner boot with a red top cuff. Also the goretex inner might sound pointless but it works very well at stopping condensation getting back inside, you can wipe it all off with a sock at the end of each day.
I don't know how helpful this is but it's all I know about so I thought I'd post! I'm probably a bit old school, just getting back into climbing after a bit of a break, but I do know Lowa still make this model. If you normally take a 10 boot the size 277 is just right. As a guide to the narrow foot thing, if you find that adidas trainers fit you better than other, it means you have narrowish feet and might find other brands better than scarpas for you.
Michael Gordon - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to TobyA:

Thanks for all your help Toby. I've decided to take the plunge and ordered a pair from Sport-praxenthaler (or something) - fingers crossed! They had some money off but nothing like the deal you got.
In reply to Michael Gordon: When I first got mine I was a bit worried that they didn't fit super well. I remember using them without the inner sole for example but after thermofitting them they fit excellently.

I actually paid at a local shop to have it done by a guy who is their ski boot fitter, but he was actually very mellow about it and said if I didn't think they were fitting well I should just do it again in my home over following the instructions. He reckons doing it multiple times is no issue. You need to cut up some old socks though to make toe caps if you do it at home. But mine do fit comfortably now (although I've only ice climbed in them so far, not big mountain days with lots of hiking), so maybe it was worth the 25 EUR to have it done by someone who knows their stuff.

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