/ Lochnagar conditions? 2013
No climbing is recorded in the UKC logbook in the past week...
Is the road open and accessible by car to the carpark?
What is the walk-in like? Maybe ski-in is better? Or is to too bare to ski in?
Is there any convenient site to make snow-holes up there?
Any information is greatly appreciated!
Cliffs will be completely roughcasted, there is no doubt about that, accessing routes will be an issue. Although current SAIS forecast suggests routes North of Douglas Gibson may be slightly safer prospects access wise. Would take it easy though.
There are no obvious snow hole locations, probably be some deep drifts on the West side of the Pap but they will all be fresh deposits. There are a couple howffs but they will be completely buried. Best staying down in the car park, or even better in Ballater - there's a cracking bunkhouse beside the Alexandra Hotel.
Not sure on state of play with road. Would give Grampian's finest a buzz and they should be able to tell you.
Hmm. Difficult to judge. Anyway, if we go, I think we are going to camp. Walk-in and out for consecutive days, taking over 6(?) hours each day just to walk, seem to be too laborious...
Any further update and/or info is appreciated - any one?
Lochnagar is generally lower humidity than the west coast hills and normally takes even longer to consolidate without freeze thaw. If there has been no thaw it will not have consolidated much at all in a week. The snow will still be drifting, don't underestimate how hard the walkin is in these conditions, I too walked in one morning in similar conditions, ended up turning around at the Pap knackered at mid day! (the drive too had been a nightmare and the access road often drifts over so be careful!)
Have you considered mid to low level ice venues like Beinn Udlaidh, Eas Anie, Sgurr Finnisg-aig etc. Glen Clova may also be an option.
Don't expected consolidation, still very cold up there, about -5 to -6 at 900m everyday with constant flurries and winds.
Fair play if you plod all the way up into the corrie with a tent and what not, make no mistake it will be hard graft. You'll no doubt be doing a lot of digging on routes too.
So, it seems the walk-in is likely to be hell and the conditions of routes won't be nice...
We have decided to give Lochnagar a miss this Easter. I think we will head to North East, maybe dropping by Udlaidh etc on our way.
Looking at the current snowy conditions, hopefully I will have a chance to visit Lochnagar in April!
Thanks again, Masa
Elsewhere on the site
This Winter Conditions page gives a summary of what is being climbed at the moment, what is 'in' nick and what the prospects are... Read more
The release of Peter Jackson's new film The Hobbit: The Battle of the Five Armies on 12th December may not appear to link to... Read more
F ounded in 1993, Mountain Hardwear are a pretty young mountaineering clothing and equipment manufacturer but are also one of... Read more
Tonight's Friday Night Video features the Norwegian town of Rjukan, once believed to be the home of the world's tallest... Read more
Perhaps the perfect Xmas gift for the climber in your life... Wild Country's Crack School has two of the worlds best crack... Read more
Rock shoes stink – let’s face it. Boot Bananas are the perfect way to fight the funk and keep them fresh. They help... Read more