/ Edinburgh - Multi Pitch?

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Malpractise on 27 Mar 2013
I'm looking for some multi-pitch near(ish <50 miles) to Edinburgh, grades D - HVS.

Any suggestions?

Thanks
Mark Bull - on 27 Mar 2013
In reply to Malpractise:

There's not a lot really.
Some two-pitch routes at Craig a Barns, Dunkeld.
You can link 4 or 5 pitches together at Ben A'an with a bit of walking.
The left hand end of Hawkcraig, Aberdour is split by a large ledge: you can combine routes on the two tiers.
Chossy deathtrap at Traprain Law Quarry (don't go there).
The closest "proper" multipitching is probably on the Cobbler.
Malpractise on 27 Mar 2013
In reply to Mark Bull:

Cheers Mark, that should keep me going for a while
radioshed - on 27 Mar 2013
Mark Bull - on 27 Mar 2013
In reply to radioshed:


...true, and a brilliant route, but the first pitch is 90% grass! (You can avoid it by traversing or abseiling in.) There are some other two-pitch routes at Loudoun but they also have pretty scruffy first pitches.
Jamie B - on 27 Mar 2013
In reply to Malpractise:

> Cheers Mark, that should keep me going for a while

I think Mark's point was that none of those listed, apart from the Cobbler, are very good.

Gary Latter - on 27 Mar 2013
In reply to JamieB: I think Mark's point was that none of those listed, apart from the Cobbler, are very good.

The statement above is bollocks. There's plenty of great routes at Craig a Barns, on 3 different crags. Polney Crag has the most in the lower grade range, but also a few good routes on both Lower & Upper Cave Crags also. Admittedly, many of these are feasible in single pitch with careful rope management, but there are certainly a fair number of routes that makes more sense to split into 2 pitches.
Another great venue worth considering, with stacks of routes to go at, is Creag Dhubh, near Newtonmore. Another 50 miles/ <1 hour further up A9 from Dunkeld. Many classics, with lots superb routes, and a lot less busty than Polney Crag.

Cheers,

Gary Latter
Jamie B - on 27 Mar 2013
In reply to GL:

Not exactly what I said, or meant. The Dunkeld crags are very good, and I frequently drive over from the West to enjoy a sunnier day when the fronts are drenching us here. But you couldn't really call it a multi-pitch crag, and I got the impression that was what the OP was after?

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