/ Wreckers Slab - Speed climb ascent

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The Green Giant - on 27 Mar 2013
After climbing wreckers slab more than a few times each, my partner and I decided that to make things more enjoyable we would go for a speed ascent. Armed with one half rope, a limited rack and a bandoleer of quickdraws we set the stop watch to 00:00:00. After a few words of tactic clarity we hit go and off we went.

Starting at the bottom, on belay, Tom moved quickly to create a full 45m between us. Belay devise removed, a quick shout and we were moving fast together. Cruising the cruz, a continuous tug on my harness, letting me know Tom was on easier ground and wanted to go faster. He let out a shout, signalling that I was no longer climbing with the protection of a tight rope, footholds which were previously little and hairy, suddenly became ledges. Smears were the name of the game.

Greeting Tom with a swear word, I ran past him across the ridge, neither of us on belay. Rope stuck, Tom tripping, stop watch stopped: 25:36:07

So (after thinking myself as a writer for the last 15 minutes) I now propose, to any climbers out there thinking (or not thinking) of ascending the great south west test piece, a challenge. Beat the time, with proof, by the end of the year and there's a few beers in it for you. I don't really expect many people to respond to this, but I'm currently in bed unable to move, and Bored senseless. As a side note, are there any other challenges people want to set/have set in the climbing world?

Cheers,

Alex.
Mark Reeves - on 27 Mar 2013
In reply to The Green Giant: Not sure I'll make it down. But try this one.

http://lifeinthevertical.co.uk/blogs/blog/2009/04/the-west-face-of-vivian-aka-sun-chaser-wall/

I managed in in two hours one evening with a friend.
JamButty - on 27 Mar 2013
In reply to The Green Giant: Is Wreckers slab still standing then?

When I climbing it 20 yrs ago, it was about to collapse then!
victim of mathematics - on 27 Mar 2013
In reply to JamButty:

You need to have more chossy adventures. Wreckers Slab is relatively solid. It certainly doesn't look in any imminent danger of falling down!
JamButty - on 27 Mar 2013
In reply to victim of mathematics:
> (In reply to JamButty)
>
> You need to have more chossy adventures. Wreckers Slab is relatively solid. It certainly doesn't look in any imminent danger of falling down!

Sorry Mr Fowler... ;-)
Tom Last - on 27 Mar 2013
In reply to The Green Giant:

Hi Alex, good time! I reckon someone could smash it though if they were soloing, or is that not part of the deal? (not that I'm volunteering!)

I've got a challenge I've set myself locally, but it's secret for now (especially secret from handy lads like you! ;)

Anyway, how you injured yourself?
The Green Giant - on 27 Mar 2013
In reply to The Green Giant:

Mark, you're always welcome down here mate, especially after the help you gave me on my dissertation (Sorry UKC, I know it's a hated word round here!), would be happy to go for a climb/hold some ropes for you.

It's not fallen down yet, however a vast quantity of the decent onto the beach has now dropped, this has actually made it easier to get in. Traffic is always good on routes like this, holds are always in different shapes and places the next time around, if you know what I mean!

Southern Man, don't want to say it has to be roped because that's just being rubbish. However, we kind of had in mind the speed ascent of the Nose, and wanted it to be done in the style.

Done something to my neck. Can't look down - makes life interesting!
BALD EAGLE - on 27 Mar 2013
In reply to The Green Giant:
> So (after thinking myself as a writer for the last 15 minutes) I now propose, to any climbers out there thinking (or not thinking) of ascending the great south west test piece, a challenge. Beat the time, with proof, by the end of the year and there's a few beers in it for you. I don't really expect many people to respond to this, but I'm currently in bed unable to move, and Bored senseless. As a side note, are there any other challenges people want to set/have set in the climbing world?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alex.

Hi Alex
My 2 buddies and I climbed Wreckers Slab in exactly 7 minutes and 5 seconds and indubitably here is my proof:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ifNQuBPfHJU
So please can I claim my few beers?! ;-)
Cheers Dave
The Green Giant - on 27 Mar 2013
In reply to BALD EAGLE:

Dave, I clicked on that video expecting to be absolutely shown up, preparing to hide my face on UKC for a few weeks! Looks like you had a thoroughly pleasant ascent of the slab. I propose the challenge to you though!
Bob Moulton - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to The Green Giant: Tom Patey soloed it soon after the first ascent - when it really was loose. I've seen his letter to Keith Lawder in which he apologized for breaking off a few holds! Of course, there is no record of the time he took, but it would be nice to think that he did it less than 25 minutes.

Bob
ads.ukclimbing.com
BALD EAGLE - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to The Green Giant:
> (In reply to BALD EAGLE)
>
> Dave, I clicked on that video expecting to be absolutely shown up, preparing to hide my face on UKC for a few weeks! Looks like you had a thoroughly pleasant ascent of the slab. I propose the challenge to you though!

<laughs> Sorry Alex I could not resist it and yep the boys and I had a great ascent (my third I think?) on a glorious day of this Culm Classic.
As for your challenge? Well I'm far too much of a wuss and decrepit to think of soloing it so your time is good enough for me! Unless anyone else knows otherwise... ;-)


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