/ Climbable rock this weekend - Wye Valley?

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Martin Hore - on 27 Mar 2013
I'm looking for somewhere with dry rock and not too cold for Easter weekend (like many others I'm sure!). Wondering about the Wye Valley on the basis that it's low altitude and some crags should be reasonably sheltered from the wind. Has anyone been there this week and can advise? Any info much appreciated.

Martin
The Pylon King on 27 Mar 2013
In reply to Martin Hore:

Most are west facing so will be fine - Wintours, Shorncliff, Symonds Yat etc
Martin Hore - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to The Pylon King: Many thanks for the advice. I did know that some of the crags face west (I should have said that, sorry). My main concern would be whether they will be dry. I think there's a fair bit of drainage above Symmonds Yat and Shorncliffe, so any lying snow above could be a problem. If I lived in Bristol I'd be heading out to take a look, but it's a long way from Ipswich. So if anyone reads this and has been out to the Wye Valley this week, or in similar weather conditions, please let me know.
Kevster - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Martin Hore:

There are recent routes in the logbook from Avon.
WyeValleyClimber - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Martin Hore:
There' no snow directly above the Lower Wye crags, there has been a strong, dry wind blowing all week, this morning the sun is shining and the forecast is dry.
I'm pretty sure dampness won't be a problem - although cold hands probably will.
wurzelinzummerset on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Martin Hore: We climbed at Shorn Cliff yesterday afternoon in light snow. There was seepage on a few routes that prevented climbing them, plus the odd icicle hanging from the cliff top but most of it was bone dry and it was sheltered from the wind. However, the signs marking the entry paths are gone so if you're not familiar with the place you'd have some fun getting to the crag.

I reckon anywhere out of the wind will be okay this weekend, although because the ground's still saturated you've got to expect seepage in places.
bpmclimb - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Martin Hore:

I reckon Wyndcliff will be as pleasant as anywhere. Gets the morning sun and tends to be a bit warmer than Wintour's etc to start with. Left-hand crag, right wing is particularly sunny and quick drying.
Martin Hore - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Martin Hore: Thanks everyone - some really useful information, especially from the team who climbed at Shorncliffe this week. Looks like it should be possible to get something done if we make the journey from Ipswich.

Thanks for the info on the marker posts at Shorncliffe. I wonder why that's been done? I've been there enough times to find the cliff, I think, but probably not the bit of the cliff I was expecting to arrive at! Windcliffe could be a good bet too. Could be a bit too chilly on the multipitch stuff at Wintours I suspect.

Thanks again
The Ivanator - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Martin Hore: Had a decent but cold day on Fly Wall near the beginning of March. Despite the fact Wyndcliffe catches any sun going the fact it will also be catching the ENE wind that is forecast means it may be the coldest of the Wye Valley options.
Rick Sewards - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Martin Hore:

Could be a bit too chilly on the multipitch stuff at Wintours I suspect.
>
On the contrary, I think that Wintourís (esp. North Wall) will probably be the warmest spot in the valley if the sun comes out Ė itís beautifully sheltered from Easterlies, and sitting on a sunny belay could be remarkably pleasant (Iím not accepting liability if it isnít). If you insist on getting up early then Wynd Cliff will get the sun earlier, though it may be catching a bit more of the wind. Shorn Cliff will be out of the wind, but no sun until about 1.30. If you do go to Wintourís though, please keep eyes and ears open for peregrines and be prepared to move to a different bit of the crag if theyíre nesting (I donít know if they are this year or not yet). Iíll post separately on this as a reminder to everyone.

Re Shorn Cliff posts Ė thanks to Worzel for the heads-up. Iím fairly sure the Forestry Commission donít intend to remove them permanently. I will get in touch with them next week to find out whatís happened Ė I know theyíve been doing quite a bit of work in those woods over the winter.

Rick


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Martin Hore - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to Rick Sewards:

Thanks Rick, and others. A change of partner and a bit of a re-think meant that we went to N Wales in the end - top winter conditions on Saturday and Tremadog in the sun on Sunday. I'll keep all the advice in mind though next time we head to the Wye Valley in coldish weather. It does sound like there's good options there so well worth considering next time the weather's as per this weekend (as well as when it's warmer of course!)

Thanks again!

Martin


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