/ Deep Snow Soloing

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Michael Hood - on 27 Mar 2013
Are conditions right for this anywhere on the Peak edges at the moment; i.e. snow melted off the routes but nice deep snowdrifts below. The ideal spot that comes to mind is Tippler at Stanage - are there others that would be so conducive to a bit of commitment above a deep enough drift?

Or are all the edges totally snowed up?

Oh, and the other questions is - if any edge is ok to climb on, how do you get to it - what are the roads to places like Stanage like?
Ropeboy - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Michael Hood:

There are a couple if threads on UKB you could take a look at, this one is about the Easternn edges

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11733.1350.html

J
ice.solo - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Michael Hood:

An absurdly dubious idea that stretches the limits of good practice.

Please send any photos if it works out as i see myself giving it a go.
deacondeacon - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Michael Hood:
In reply to Michael Hood:
Went to Burbage on Tuesday and Stanage on Wednesday and I've never seen drifts this big in the peak district. I was up there for a walk but also sorted out some landings for highballing.
The tippler didn't have a very big drift under it, and soloing it on wet rock would be too big a proposition for me but someone else will have the balls.
Soloed to the crux of Flying Buttress Direct and jumped off into a huge drift, Also climbed Telli by cutting steps up it (didn't actually see any of the rock).
Soloing around on right unconquerable you can just start on the flake which must be 10' off the ground.
All the routes are still soaking and most have impressive cornices on them so aren't going to be dry for a few days but when they are dry there is going to be loads to go at. A big team with loads of pads would be really handy as it'll be really hard to try and stay dry, especially climbing shoes.

The approaches are hard work (for Eastern Grit lol), we walked in from the cattle grid between ringinglow and Burbage both times and when you get to the crag waist deep snow is common. The snow is only a few inches deep on the top but with gale force winds.
There was a plough and a snow blower working to clear the road but they where making slow progress so not sure when the road will be completely clear and there are still abandoned cars up there.

I'm not sure if this link will work but it's Archangel (sorry about the quality)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/60469689@N03/8597458510/
ericinbristol - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Michael Hood:

I guess this would be snowballing
grubes - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to ice.solo: there are some on the UKC database already
ai no corrida
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=211959
Three blind mice
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=211958
althesin on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to ericinbristol:
It's snowloing.
ice.solo - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to grubes:

ok, right. but shouldnt there be more snow? as in enough to fall into?
or we are just talking extra padding for the mats?

i had visions of a sort of DWS type thing.

whatever, it still looks quite cool.
grubes - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to ice.solo:
its more abuot improving the landing and flattening it out for mats to go on top

there is a picture of what has been done to the landing of pistol whip at almscliff in this thread http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,21967.0.html
deacondeacon - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to ice.solo: yep we were doing it more like dws but you'd struggle to do anything hard. Wet rock and proper boots were the order of the day. I reckon once the breaks and cornices are gone the landings will be solid ice though, the pads will give you half a chance at keeping your shoes dry too.
ice.solo - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to deacondeacon & grubes:

right, gotcha now. thoroughly insane. i like it.
may see whats doin in japan - some places have snow 5m deep, and am sure the locals would get into it.
Michael Hood - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to ice.solo: Equivalent to DWS was how I hoped for as well.

Looking at that photo of Archangel, I reckon there might still be some snow on the holds though :-)
Michael Hood - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to deacondeacon: Nice photo, bit worried about the cornice on the layback of Goliath's, maybe a tunnel?
Kemics - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Michael Hood:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EksaafuZhl0

these guys are jumping off the roof of apartment buildings. So I guess if you could find the right route/snow drift you could solo anything safely....but it might help if you're a crazy russian
ice.solo - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Michael Hood:
> (In reply to ice.solo) Equivalent to DWS was how I hoped for as well.
>
> Looking at that photo of Archangel, I reckon there might still be some snow on the holds though :-)

got your ice tools out...?
ads.ukclimbing.com
In reply to ice.solo:
> (In reply to Michael Hood)
> [...]
>
> got your ice tools out...?

Don't suggest it - not even in jest. There are some right idiots out there.



Chris

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