/ Skye route recommendations?

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Busby - on 27 Mar 2013

Looks like I'll be on me tod for playing on Skye this weekend, was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for a nice grade II, preferably south part of the island but if its a stonker I'm sure I'll manage to go the extra mile up to the Cuillin/Trotternish.

Got an old guide for Skye (1996) but am aware that several new routes have been put up in the last few years.

Cheers,

Iain.
Mike Lates - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Busby: hi iain, did you mean blaven & outliers as "south skye". Great Gully (I)up the centre of the 2 Blaven tops is the best route in lower grades. Many others have more serious ridge sections that have to be negotiated after the route. only other route that comes to mind is South-east gully on clach glas (II) which runs up right of bealach tower with an easy return to descend from Putting green. mike
BnB - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Busby: Mike is the man for route recommendations but you'll find Sligachan only 10 minutes further than Torrin as a start point. Any hike that includes Coire a Bhaisteir is worth the effort and this is a good intro to Skye winter. Navigate through the slabs to the right of and well above the ravine to enter the corrie. The headwall can be climbed at grade I, steering right of the main crag to the Bealach nan Lice and optionally surmount Sgurr a Fion Choire by a grade I/II gully, returning the same way. You can then descend easy snow slopes into Fionn Choire and back to Slig or descend one of the ridges of Sgurr a Bhaisteir at grade I to II. Doing the route via Sgurr a Bhasteir in reverse gives a different (more ridge-focused) day out.

I can't speak for conditions however so take care and heed any local advice.
Cameron94 on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Busby: Conditions are great at the moment with bullet hard snow in places,getting to the routes without the use of crampons yesterday would have been a real challenge.
I'll second what BnB has said, it's really not that much further to get to Sligachan than it is to get to Torin.

Either of the two ridges on Sgurr a Bhasteir would be good at grade I/II leading to Bealach na Lice where you could then do Am Bhasteir, Bruach na Frithe, or Sgurr nan Gillean. Alternatively you could head up broad gully on the north face of Sgurr a Bhasteir and make your choice from there.

There's the NW ridge of Bruach na Frithe which is grade I with little steps of II on the crest, from the summit you could then traverse the ridge to the north and drop into Coire a' Bhasteir and back to the pub.

Whatever you get up to have a good one, if you fancy finding a partner have a look on https://www.facebook.com/groups/185124348291976/ we're a friendly bunch.
Busby - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Busby:

Would actually be very keen to get out with folks either Friday or Saturday, happy to lead III/IV, would be game to second a little harder. Can bring my rack but will be heading off in the next 3 hours, in work so can't access FB. You can contact me on 07846 769 324.

Cheers,

Iain
Busby - on 29 Mar 2013
In reply to Busby:

Went for SE gully on Clach Glas in the end, should've made the effort too get up to Ciire Basteir really, top and bottom of the route was bare which made for some very interesting wriggling to get out at the top. Then traversed over to Blaven itself and went up the uppermost stone shoot which was quite nice.

Good view of the cuillins, spoilt a little by the heli hovering just to the west of Bruach nah Frithe (sp?).

Hope whoever was involved is okay, crackin day to be out as well.

Cheers,

Iain.
Nath93 - on 29 Mar 2013
In reply to Busby: We were in the Blaven area today as well, originally had planned for the North Face but i had to get back sharpish today. Went up for a look at South Buttress Gully and the snow on southern aspects was pretty cruddy. Really sugary and wet, sticking to pretty much everything. Ice on the direct start to the gully was brittle and finding a belay was difficult, we never had any screws so called it a day and headed towards Great Gully but we were a bit suspicious of the snow pack so decided to head down and spent the rest of the afternoon playing on the boulders down by the lochan.

I'd be wary about southern slopes at the minute as the sun is really bright just now and is on them for a big proportion of the day. Northern faces were looking well plastered when we were out on Wednesday though !
Busby - on 29 Mar 2013
In reply to Busby:

Yeah a lot of the snow on the ridge traverse was pretty much powder, when I dropped down to get over to the stone chute pretty much all the snow pack was windslab, I'd be wary about S facing stuff on Skye at the moment.

Nath93 - on 29 Mar 2013
In reply to Busby: Big change from what we experienced in Coire a' Bhasteir the other day, bullet hard snow. Definitely the place to be just now but i reckon it could be busy this weekend !
alastairbegley - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to Busby: Skye was great at the weekend and I completed a winter traverse of the ridge with rich: http://www.masterplan-photography.co.uk/2013/04/winter-traverse-cuillin-ridge/

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