/ Sport Crags Swanage

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Ciderslider - on 31 Mar 2013
I am mainly into trad but as part of my drive to improve I want to mix it with a bit of sport (in order to try to take some of my overwinter wall improvement outside).
Currently managing to claw my way upto 6b+ on the lead indoors.

Just wondered which crags at Swanage would be good to start off with a taste of sport
Jim Nevill - on 31 Mar 2013
In reply to Ciderslider:
Winspit, easy walk down from Maltravers, above sea, two crags one either side of path. Enjoy!
Ed Babs - on 31 Mar 2013
In reply to Ciderslider:

I'd also recommend driving the extra distance to Portland. The shorter walk ins to most crags will mean your total journey time is the same. There are many good grade 6 sport routes there. The east and west facing crags also provide greater flexibility for finding or avoiding the sun or wind.
Ciderslider - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to Ciderslider: Thanks for advice guys
RockSteady on 02 Apr 2013
In reply to Ciderslider:

Dancing Ledge is my favourite crag at Swanage. Good routes at all grades IMO.
Fatclimber - on 02 Apr 2013
In reply to Ciderslider: My vote goes to Winspit. I'm sure you know, don't expect to jump on a 6b outdoors.
jezb1 - on 02 Apr 2013
In reply to Ciderslider: Swanage sport isn't fantastic in my opinion, Portland is far better.

Never understood the fascination with dancing ledge. I think it's a beautiful place but its so polished now that the easier routes are ruined. The harder stuff might not have suffered so much but I wouldn't know...!
dale1968 - on 02 Apr 2013
In reply to Ciderslider: Hedbury is worth a look at, a few good routes there
Ciderslider - on 03 Apr 2013
In reply to Fatclimber: Hey Steve, how you doing ? Although I've not done that much outside recently I'm a completely different climber to the last time we climbed together (Ledgend Direct I think).
I don't for one minute think that I will be able to climb at the same grade outside, but all the stuff I have done indoors has given me a degree of strength and even some technique (and I have also clocked loads of airtime which should help my leading head).
Hope to catch up soon

Cheers

Mark
Ciderslider - on 03 Apr 2013
In reply to jezb1: Well if you don't jez I've no chance !
The Ivanator - on 04 Apr 2013
In reply to Ciderslider: In a word - Portland. If not then Winspit is the best option at Swanage for climbs in the F5 - F6b range.
If you head to Portland then these routes are worth checking out:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=497
ads.ukclimbing.com
The Ivanator - on 08 Apr 2013
In reply to Ciderslider: Of climbs I've done at Winspit the pick of the bunch are (in approx. ascending order of difficulty):
Iron Bar F5
Mackerel F5
So Naughty F5/F6a+ (direct)
Birthday Treat F5+
Nine Years Absence F6a
Resin Devotion F6a
Know What I Mean Pal F6a
Stargazy F6a+
Stone Mason F6a+
All routes above worth a star or two IMO. Not done any above 6a+, but there look to be a few good lines in the F6b area.

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