/ Sport Crags Swanage
Currently managing to claw my way upto 6b+ on the lead indoors.
Just wondered which crags at Swanage would be good to start off with a taste of sport
Winspit, easy walk down from Maltravers, above sea, two crags one either side of path. Enjoy!
I'd also recommend driving the extra distance to Portland. The shorter walk ins to most crags will mean your total journey time is the same. There are many good grade 6 sport routes there. The east and west facing crags also provide greater flexibility for finding or avoiding the sun or wind.
Dancing Ledge is my favourite crag at Swanage. Good routes at all grades IMO.
Never understood the fascination with dancing ledge. I think it's a beautiful place but its so polished now that the easier routes are ruined. The harder stuff might not have suffered so much but I wouldn't know...!
I don't for one minute think that I will be able to climb at the same grade outside, but all the stuff I have done indoors has given me a degree of strength and even some technique (and I have also clocked loads of airtime which should help my leading head).
Hope to catch up soon
Iron Bar F5
So Naughty F5/F6a+ (direct)
Birthday Treat F5+
Nine Years Absence F6a
Resin Devotion F6a
Know What I Mean Pal F6a
Stone Mason F6a+
All routes above worth a star or two IMO. Not done any above 6a+, but there look to be a few good lines in the F6b area.
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