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Topic - Ice screw tips and questions

mmmhumous on 07 Apr 2013
Found these articles pretty useful for my first day leading on ice yesterday:

Strength vs angle of ice screw and thread placements: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4315

Placing an ice-screw: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=2303

Did raise a few questions though..... I was using three bog standard ice screws which I'd borrowed: 80x18mm,140x18mm,200x22mm and two warthogs which I've acquired from my father-in-law.

1. With ice screws, presumably (for a given placement) a well placed smaller screw is better than a longer one which has bottomed out, and you’ve had to tie off?

2. I'm guessing wider screws are stronger than skinny ones?

3. Anyone got any top tips for getting the screw to bite? These were the first screws I've handled, so don't know if they were sharp enough. I think my choice and preparation of placements was OK, but not sure about my technique for getting the screws started, I really struggled to do it one handed.

4. Does length matter? How much better is long screw screw than a short one.

5. Why did warthogs go out of fashion? They seemed really easy to place! Is it their strength, or the strength of the placement. i.e. because they're thinner than new style screws, or they 'damage' the ice?
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