/ Tuning rear gears
Any ideas on how I can get a click-once-gear-changes action going as it was when new about a year ago?
You tube indexing gears and you'll find a demo of how to do it
Daft question but did you replace the cassette like for like and adjust the chain length to be the same as the old. I suspect you did, in which case apologies for being patronising, and indeed I have nothing to offer ...
Worth checking the cable runs smoothly in the outer without the mech attached. Sticky cable cause shifting stickiness.
Squirt some wD40 down there followed my some light grease or chain lube.
Again, not wishing to patronise, but have you set everything up 'by the book' (e.g. Parktool Blue Book).
I did my MTB 9-speed system a while ago, setting the upper and lower limit screws. Getting the cable tension just right can take a bit of time. Plus, with all new cables and outers/ferrules, it can take a little while to bed in. The book describes setting cable tension by adjusting the cable adjuster so that the chain just starts to rub on the next larger sprocket, then backing off till it stops. Check this on every sprocket. The detail is more than I can remember here, but it was not a quick task and needed re-doing after everything had settled in after a couple rides.
Failing that, as others have said, it may be an indexing problem, or cable friction.
Hope that helps and good luck.
> Again, not wishing to patronise, but have you set everything up 'by the book' (e.g. Parktool Blue Book).
Hey - don't feel you are patronising. That is excellent advice and no, I don't have the book, but yes, it looks like I am going to get it! :-)
I have never really done the more intricate bike maintenance but having recently discovered how simple most of it is with the correct tools, I see no excuse to shy away any more. That said, like you say, it can take quite a bit of tinkering and experience before seemingly easy tasks can be done with accuracy and precision first time.
I find modern 9 and particularly 10 speed quite sensitive to small adjustments in tension. In fact the 10 speed MTB is a real sod.
One tip for new cables to pre-stretch before tensioning at the barrel adjuster. To do this put the cable in as normal, then cycle it through the gears by pulling on it with you hand (put a glove on) under the down tube. Do it 4 or 5 cycles and you might be surprise how slack it has become.
Check that the cable is slipping easily through the plastic guide under the bottom bracket. I use maltodextrin in my drink bottle on long rides and inevitably some gets dripped on the frame, dribbles down and gums up the cables.
You replaced the cable but did you replace the outer where it curves around to the derailleur? This is where rust and crud accumulate and cause bad shifting. Treat the bike to a full set of new cable outers or at the minimum, new rear outer and you'll be astonished at what you have come to accept as standard performance.
It is all way above my head, but all is well so I can remain blissfully ignorant.
I'm having similar probs with the front mech on my CX bike. Annoying, and if you decide its the cables, buy new ones, set them all up, etc. you know you're going to have to fiddle more in a couple of weeks once they've stretched a bit!
You can avoid the worst of that fiddling by stretching the cables during installation. Set everything up so it works. Put the chain on the small ring. Then pull the cable under the down tube to shift to the big ring, do this several times (H&S warning, wear a glove). Now take out the cable slack and fine tune the set up. Any additional future fiddling can be done from the barrel adjuster on shifter itself.
It's odd; I've never suffered derailleur cable stretch on index shifters. Yet...
I did once have the shifters go dry and stop indexing (LX), but a quick squirt of grease restored order.
For mountain biking applications I find friction thumbshifters good, if i'm out on a ride and happen to break a rear gear cable, or my rear mech hanger get knocked out of line by a rock, it's much less faff and hassle than having indexed gears.
With practice you can shift standing up too, which some don't think is possible. Not a 'do it like this' post, more of an 'here's something different to indexed for mtbing' post. (:-))
Gosh - I had those back in the 90's! I am on a hybrid commuter so not too fussed about changing my gear shifters.
I am not disagreeing with you Toby, just repeating the propaganda given to me at the bike shop. It sounds plausible and the new chain definitely changes more smoothly. Oh - and Hyperglide is the word I was looking for - thanks!
> Gosh - I had those back in the 90's! I am on a hybrid commuter so not too fussed about changing my gear shifters.
Fair enough. I can index gears, and have done with my parents bikes, but halfway through i'll start thinking about other things I could be doing, and how much nicer it'd be not to need to, and can lose patiance with them.
If I took the time to keep my cables well lubed and things like that it'd help, but something about the fiddling with them drives me nuts. It's one of my quirks I suppose.
Sounds like not enough tension in the cable, or the cable isn't routed correctly into the bolt that clamps it. Try the barrel adjuster first for tension, and if still not right, look at cable outing. Also check the b adjuster screw which faces out awkward a from the hanger. Adjust till jockey wheels as close as possible to cassette teeth, then back off a 1/8 turn or so.
I had the same problem as Mr Moac. My bike wasn't changing smoothly for a few months and I couldn't suss it out. Eventually I removed the rear mech hangar, put it on the table and voila - it wasn't flat anymore. Must have given it a knock somewhere. The new hangar made an instant and welcome difference to gear changing. They're designed to bend and bend they do ! I always carry a spare in my bag and I'm currently on the fifth in four years. £15 well spent.
Another slightly embarrassing one I've had (as someone previously employed as a bike mechanic) is getting so much muck in my guide pulleys that my chain skipped. A simple clean sorted that one out.
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