/ Advice creag meaghaidh

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mark turnbull - on 08 Apr 2013
Bit advice please heading up hopefully
Wednesday to have a look at the post face
Any one been up in the last few days that could
Give me abit off a update .
Cheers mark
dek - on 08 Apr 2013
In reply to mark turnbull:
If you do a quick search on Winter forum for 'Pumpkin photos', you can see reports from the weekend.
(looks good Btw)
mark turnbull - on 08 Apr 2013
In reply to dek:
Sound does look good
Andy Hewison - on 08 Apr 2013
In reply to mark turnbull: Did south post direct yesterday, loads of snow and ice left, in fact it was snowing most of yesterday (lightly). It was still cold and the ice was generally good, sometimes I had to clear the snow or crap off the top to get at it though. Path was pretty clear on the walk in and the descent via the window was ok. Defo lots left to climb,
bullwinkle - on 09 Apr 2013
In reply to mark turnbull:

Did Smiths yesterday (Monday). Excellent nick. We came down easy gully. The post face is plastered with ice. All of the main post face routes looked to be in great nick, with the exception of the direct finish to north post. The freezing level was around the level of the lochan. I have photos of the post face - sent me an email if you would like any.
Pummelzacken - on 09 Apr 2013
In reply to mark turnbull: some pics and comments from today on http://maxhuntercouk.blogspot.co.uk/
mark turnbull - on 09 Apr 2013
In reply to Pummelzacken:
Looks awesome max cheers , got a job to do now so
cant get out, Not fxxkin happy has I thought it would be good
Hopefully stays cold at night up there for a few more days to come
Andy Cloquet - on 09 Apr 2013
In reply to mark turnbull: ... you should be so bleedin' lucky! I've been looking after my two wonderful girls for the duration of their school holiday whilst post after post has screamed about the wonderful conditions that abound!
Of the past two weeks of gorgeous conditions, I have only snatched a four hour outing on Haar yesterday, between walking the dog early AM, driving to Orchy in a frenzy (of controlled acceleration and seamless braking) followed by a frustratingly contorted journey following drivers less happy to be hugging the shores along Loch Lomond to collect youngest from her Gran's @ 6 in deepest Southside!...domestics took longer than my walkin, climb and walkout!

I can only sit back and read everyone's superb exploits: particularly the guy who was standing in the carpark just before 1PM having soloed Tower Ridge and Orion Direct.
Just makes me sick........
m dunn - on 10 Apr 2013
In reply to mark turnbull: Did Last Post good yesterday (Tuesday). Good conditions - should hang around until weather breaks. Only one other team climbing (Smith's Gully) on a really good day. 1959 Face Route looked good too.
mark turnbull - on 10 Apr 2013
In reply to Andy Cloquet:
M8 I've got 2 boys and do the shame old same.
But being self employed had to take the job , was well up for it
had kids sorted fir Wednesday all was looking good . But hay Ho
The joys
Lew13 - on 10 Apr 2013
In reply to mark turnbull:

Climbed The Pumpkin today.

Conditions were awesome & still lots of fat ice everywhere. Only saw 1 other team climbing all day.
Simon Caldwell - on 18 Apr 2013
In reply to mark turnbull:
Anyone know what conditions are like at the moment?
We're not planning on climbing, but there's a mountain marathon there in just over a week and I'm not sure what to expect!
Grahame N - on 18 Apr 2013
In reply to Toreador:
> Anyone know what conditions are like at the moment?
> We're not planning on climbing, but there's a mountain marathon there in just over a week and I'm not sure what to expect!

My wife and I are doing the Highlander too - score class.
I guess there will still be a lot of snow around especially on north and west facing slopes and corries. The sun will have melted much south facing snow.

I wouldn't be surprised if the organisers have been panicking a bit and have revised the courses. Taking controls off the tops.
If there's a frost on Fri and/or Sat nights then the snow will be a bit icy in the mornings. But they can't expect people to carry ice axes.
Simon Caldwell - on 18 Apr 2013
In reply to Grahame N:
We're doing Score as well.
I was wondering about taking microspikes and toy axe - but you're right, they'll have to make sure it's possible to complete the courses safely without. I guess they consider snow when planning courses for this time of year - but probably not expecting quite as much as we've had this year!
Grahame N - on 19 Apr 2013
In reply to Toreador:
Yes, still a lot of snow - http://saismeagaidh.blogspot.co.uk/
graeme gatherer - on 20 Apr 2013
In reply to Grahame N: Climbed the Wand this morning with Steve which as expected was brilliant fun. Back down to our kit with crampons off. Then quick boot up Easy Gully and skied back down. Some new snow fallen up high sitting in the gully. Used our bikes for first time ever going into Megaidh- a real burn on the way up but quick and 20 mins back out to the car! Snow fairly patchy away from the corrie on surrounding hills.
Paul035 - on 20 Apr 2013
In reply to graeme gatherer:

Thanks for the update. Is the steep bit on the second pitch of The Wand still in ok nick??
graeme gatherer - on 20 Apr 2013
In reply to Paul035: Quite tricky to be fair- still ice on it but wee bit technical- good wire in the crack on the right. Good climbing though and the long first pitch was superb
Paul035 - on 20 Apr 2013
In reply to graeme gatherer: ok thanks for that
Simon Caldwell - on 29 Apr 2013
In reply to Grahame N:
Well done on your result - we weren't far behind on day 1, but don't think we chose a good route yesterday so dropped back.

To the thread:
The Wand looked climbable but it was hard to tell as on was covered with fresh snow, which might have been hiding bare patches. Photo in my gallery when it's been approved.
Simon Caldwell - on 29 Apr 2013
Grahame N - on 29 Apr 2013
In reply to Toreador:
> Well done on your result - we weren't far behind on day 1, but don't think we chose a good route yesterday so dropped back.

Thanks. We took a big gamble on day 2 by going for the 50 pointer away to the north, and were lucky to be only 4 mins overdue at the finish.
By the way, at the prize giving I think your names were mentioned - Simon & Carmen 3rd MIX? But you wern't around to collect your fleecy hats.
Simon Caldwell - on 30 Apr 2013
In reply to Grahame N:
We assumed there would only be a prize for first mixed so went home!

Looking at other routes, I think we were just too unadventurous on day 2. I'd had dreadful cramp for half of Saturday and struggled to get back in time, so we were reluctant to commit to anything too far in the wrong direction. Of course there was no sign of cramp on Sunday.
ads.ukclimbing.com
NottsRich on 02 May 2013
Does anyone have an uptodate climbing condition report please? Is there fresh snow and melting cornices all over, or firm neve in the shade? Or something entirely different? Thanks.

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