/ Buoux

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Kelcat - on 09 Apr 2013
Hi All, I'm thinking of taking a climbing trip down memory lane. I've happy memories of climbing at Buoux, but people tell me that its all polished and a not visited backwater now. Has anyone been recently? Is it still worth a visit?
jon on 09 Apr 2013
In reply to Kelcat:

I haven't been for a few years now, but I think some things never change... I saw a report recently on Camp to Camp about car break-ins there.
johnny1 - on 09 Apr 2013
In reply to Kelcat:

buoux is always worth a visit, so many amazing lines to climb.
Enty - on 10 Apr 2013
In reply to Kelcat:

It's just as awesome as it always was - the grades are hard as always but seem to feel much harder now than they did in 1987 ;-)

E
Kelcat - on 10 Apr 2013
In reply to Enty: haha, I suspect you'll be right, not been since 1994.
1poundSOCKS - on 10 Apr 2013
In reply to Kelcat: Having been a couple of weeks ago, I wouldn't go back until I was climbing 7a consistently. A Buoux 6b+ felt harder than 7a in Siurana. There are good routes up to 6a+ (I was put off trying to lead 6b by an incredibly hard start with spaced bolts), but obviously you lose a lot of choice and gain a lot of polish. Having said that, a 5c and 6a+ I did, which were more like bolted trad routes, were 2 of the most enjoyable routes I've done in a while.
Morgan Woods - on 10 Apr 2013
In reply to Kelcat: i visited a couple of years ago and didn't really find it polished....worn yes but not polished like peak limestone. I think the "molasses" structure of the rock might have something to do with it....perhaps much coarser grains. The 6b's on styx sector are ace and bang on for the grade.
1poundSOCKS - on 10 Apr 2013
In reply to Morgan Woods: I found Styx the hardest sector, I couldn't even get started on any of the routes I tried.
GrahamD - on 10 Apr 2013
In reply to Kelcat:

I was there for a day last year for the first time. Odd atmosphere of being a forgotten world with very few parties there, overgrown approach paths etc.

Got totally spanked by the grades and the nature of the climbing, but polish wasn't the problem !

Spectacular spot
davepembs - on 11 Apr 2013
In reply to Kelcat:

Still well worth a visit, what was polished 20 years ago like Zappa wall is still polished but most stuff is still positive, if anything the rounding off of some of the pockets has made it slightly less painful and it's lovely having the place to yourself!
Bulls Crack - on 11 Apr 2013
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:
> (In reply to Morgan Woods) I found Styx the hardest sector, I couldn't even get started on any of the routes I tried.

Rhinoferoce onsight was one of my finest climbing moments!

I can't continue to live off them though!
robert mirfin - on 11 Apr 2013
In reply to Kelcat: have 1 day left at buoux after a two week trip with friends including a toddler and pregnant lady. It's frickin great. Every route seems to be amazing, maybe the routes are hard for the grade but who cares? Actually found a soft touch today for a change.
1poundSOCKS - on 11 Apr 2013
In reply to robert mirfin: The soft touches seem to not involve pockets and steepness. :) The only problem I have with the grading is, we only had 2 days there and we wasted a lot of time on sectors and routes that were totally beyond us.
robandian - on 11 Apr 2013
In reply to Kelcat: went in 82, 92 and 2009 - bolts have got a lot better -still spaced compared to some places but its fantastic -we were on our own on the crag on the most recent trip compared to having to wait in '82. I'm sure you would have done Pepsicommane (sp) in '84 - go and do it again and again.
Kelcat - on 11 Apr 2013
In reply to Kelcat: hi all, thanks for the replies! I'm encouraged, I think its gonna happen :-)
Enty; - how far is it from your place? We stayed at yours a couple of years ago when you were in the States, might think of combining it with a trip to St Leger.
Also; if the bolts are now a bit better, what are the lower offs like?Do you still untie & rethread?
Dave Garnett - on 11 Apr 2013
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:
> (In reply to Kelcat) Having been a couple of weeks ago, I wouldn't go back until I was climbing 7a consistently. A Buoux 6b+ felt harder than 7a in Siurana.

I'm glad it wasn't just me. Back in the 80s I remember endless desperate 6b+s. Mind you, back then 6b+ was still a respectable grade!
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Enty - on 11 Apr 2013
In reply to Kelcat:
> (In reply to Kelcat) hi all, thanks for the replies! I'm encouraged, I think its gonna happen :-)
> Enty; - how far is it from your place? We stayed at yours a couple of years ago when you were in the States, might think of combining it with a trip to St Leger.
> Also; if the bolts are now a bit better, what are the lower offs like?Do you still untie & rethread?

I've tried this various different ways and the best I've come up with is from ours to ST. Leger then go the back way through Sault and St Jean de Sault on the D943 to St Saturnin then Apt - takes about 1h30m.

E


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