/ Climbers?

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Steve (The Steve) - on 11 Apr 2013
Well, I thought I would put this to the masses. I was climbing last weekend on The Ben and did a very nice ice climb, Hadrians Wall. Now this route is just left of Point 5 and the walk in goes past Orions Direct. And as you can imagine there was some queuing going on. At the base of the routes, on the routes, and even topping out!

I think there's a lot of people have lost what climbing is about. I think that climbing has become so accessible that lots of people are throwing them self's to routes, regardless if they had to Que or not so that they can become hero's in their lunch time.

Where has the spirit of climbing gone? Having the adventure in the wilderness? I have to Que at supermarket, the petrol station, everywhere! Am I going to head into the mountains and do it there? Hell no! That's not what climbing is about! There's hundred of routes on The Ben, and everyone is Queuing for the classic's? Sort it out.....
jon on 11 Apr 2013
In reply to Steve (The Steve):

No, I refuse to queue for routes. There aren't many words with four vowels in a row, but queue is one of them.
Milesy - on 11 Apr 2013
They are classics for a reason are they not? The typical climber has work and family commitments and days out on the hill might be few and far between. I can totally understand why people might want to get onto the classsic routes, particularly if long driving distances and petrol get factored in as well.
Steve (The Steve) - on 11 Apr 2013
In reply to Milesy: I take it you Que then. Why not do a different route, or get up earlier (going in later can help as well) and beating the crowds. Sorry I just think its shameful. I don't see climbs on a route, more like another supermarket aisle.
roperat - on 11 Apr 2013
In reply to Steve (The Steve):
I've never queued for a route but I've also climbed some crap routes so I can't blame folks wanting to maximise their limited time by doing routes that are generally acknowledged as being good.
Once you've got other stuff to spend your time on I'm sure you'll just pick out the classics as well.
Steve (The Steve) - on 11 Apr 2013
In reply to roperat:lol, i defiantly have lots more going in my life other than climbing. Maybe a couple of teams on a classic might not be as bad what I seen, there was loads, not even joking. To the point where I don't know how they could enjoy it while they are being rained on from the four teams above! also, is it just me, but is there not a pretty big safety issue as well?
Nigel Thomson - on 11 Apr 2013
In reply to Steve (The Steve):
> (In reply to Milesy)
Sorry I just think its shameful.

Not as shameful as the time you got caught having a wank under the barbers cover Stevie.

The Papa Lazarou on 11 Apr 2013
In reply to Steve (The Steve): that's just how popular winter climbing is now unfortunately. couple that with the fact that modern gear is so good & rising standards of the 'average climbers' ability, the classic grade V's & VI's are trade routes now. Boxing Day 2011 a friend & myself went into Cwm Idwal at 7am thinking we would get on The Devils Appendix. by the time we were underneath it there were 13 people (including the bloke hanging from a screw on the 1st pitch). We walked past it to The Sting & climbed that, walked down then climbed The Devils Staircase, walked down, packed up & walked out. On our way past The Appendix the last person in the que was just starting. we had our 2 routes to ourselves & felt like we had made the best of the day..........we still haven't done The Appendix yet & I suspect if we ever do it will involve queuing :-(
roperat - on 11 Apr 2013
In reply to Steve (The Steve):
Unless you are really busy with other stuff I would take a moment to proofread your posts as your last two have both been nonsensical in part.

Also I agree that it is a safety problem and last week I avoided routes due to soloists lining up to become dominoes in gullies.
The point that I made about making the most of climbing time by choosing good routes to climb still stands.
Calder - on 11 Apr 2013
In reply to Steve (The Steve):

Que? If you're so adventurous why were you amongst the masses on the Ben and not somewhere more remote and wild.

Not queing doesn't necessarily equal adventure.
Michael Gordon - on 11 Apr 2013
In reply to roperat:

yes but Hadrian's is both a good route and a 'classic' so it sounds like he got the best of both worlds!
DefenderKen on 11 Apr 2013
In reply to Steve (The Steve):

Not sure what I'm laughing at more.......

- The irony that you have Point 5 as your favourite climb in you profile

- Telling Milesy that he must queue

- your spelling of queue

So glad I'm not young anymore.

xplorer on 11 Apr 2013
In reply to Steve (The Steve):

You are Karl pilkington
redsonja - on 11 Apr 2013
In reply to Steve (The Steve): its a british thing to que isn't it? my Slovak friend always laughs at me when I stand patiently in a que. he says "you all just love to que!"
AlH - on 11 Apr 2013
In reply to Steve (The Steve): No queueing for me on tuesday :-) http://alanhalewood.blogspot.co.uk/2013/04/a-little-adventure.html
Steve (The Steve) - on 11 Apr 2013
In reply to Ken Shewry: Apologies Ken, I have dyslexia, didn't think that would need to be an issue. Feel better? Where's the irony in me likely Point 5? I didn't queue for it, and its great? you disagreeing?
Steve (The Steve) - on 11 Apr 2013
In reply to AlH: Very nice, good effort Al.
Steve (The Steve) - on 11 Apr 2013
In reply to xplorer: eh?
AlH - on 11 Apr 2013
In reply to Steve (The Steve): Twas a grand day out. I'm as guilty of it as the next person. I queued all day behind teams on Orion Direct the first time I did it this year but my partner and I discussed it, decided we didnt mind as the weather was perfect and the route was sinuous enough to keep us ut of the line of fire most of the time. There is a safety issue. Will Gadd posted a blog on this topic noting slyly that Brits are bad at following ice routes in the line of fire: http://willgadd.com/ice-breaks-dont-be-in-the-way-of-it-as-it-falls/ . The classics ARE classic for a reason as Milesy says but when conditions are as good as this there is always something good to be done and it is best to approach with several options in mind.
Nigel Thomson - on 11 Apr 2013
In reply to Steve (The Steve):
> (In reply to Ken Shewry) Apologies Ken, I have dyslexia, didn't think that would need to be an issue. Feel better?

You don't have dyslexia. You just can't spell.
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nniff - on 11 Apr 2013
In reply to Steve (The Steve):

Each to their own. Some prefer to stick with their objective come what may and, if it's a honeypot route, resign themselves to sharing it. Others have less popular objectives or plans A, B and C. We settled for plan C the other week and had a grand day out, although given the nature of plan C we really should have started earlier.
Euge - on 12 Apr 2013
In reply to Steve (The Steve): Each to their own Steve... It is not up to you to tell folk to "Sort it out..."

If they are queueing then other routes are free :o)

E
jshields - on 12 Apr 2013
In reply to AlH: Looks like a great adventure, nice one.
Jon
martinph78 on 12 Apr 2013
In reply to Steve (The Steve): I don't see how it is a problem. Surely teh fact so many were waiting in line for one climb meant that you had plenty of others to yourself. That's a bad thing because..?

Maybe you should visit a few less predictable places at quieter times if you don't like to see queues.
Fly Fifer - on 12 Apr 2013
In reply to Steve (The Steve): Superb post steve. only two reasons 1. lack of plan b. 2. lack of imagination.
MC - on 13 Apr 2013
In reply to Steve (The Steve):
Quewed 2 hours a few years ago for point five, but in reality queued for 20 years as conditions, amount of parties on route not quite right every time. ( why should I quoo for a climb when I'm young , a wild child and free to do want I want to do). My bowels were moved as I clambered over the top onto the sunkist plateau and embraced my long suffering partner and cried openly as long lost memories, ghosts and emotions flooded through. Could only smile as the young tiger party who were up our arses made comment about how easy it was and shouldn't be a grade 5 and in there i hear the voice of someone that was me many years ago........ Where has the spirit of climbing gone? Having the adventure in the wilderness? I have to Que at supermarket, the petrol station, everywhere! Am I going to head into the mountains and do it there? Hell no! That's not what climbing is about! There's hundred of routes on The Ben, and everyone is Queuing for the classic's? Sort it out..... yes indeed , sort it out.
Tim Chappell - on 13 Apr 2013
In reply to Steve (The Steve):

everyone is Queuing for the classic's? Sort it out.....


"Sort it out"? What did you have in mind, a vigorous police presence "moving people on" if they're detected queuing?

If other people decide *they* want to queue, that is your business how exactly?
top cat - on 14 Apr 2013
Surely the point is not about waitng, but not having a route left to climb? Bit naff if every pick and boot placement is pre-formed for you. Where's the adventure in that?

When I did Crowbery Gully 24 years ago (!) I was with a crowd. It felt not at all like a winter climb, more like a Diff, just moving steadily upwards hooking existing placements. I never had to swing a tool once.

Classic or not, it was not worth the effort under those circumstances. Lesson learned!
Somerset swede basher - on 14 Apr 2013
In reply to Steve (The Steve):

Sometimes I've queued, sometimes I've gone and climbed something else.

Don't assume that you will have a bad time if you queue though, as long as you've plenty of warm clothes as inevitably there is more waiting around it can actually be quite good banter with both the people above and below.
Somerset swede basher - on 14 Apr 2013
In reply to Steve (The Steve):

I think my wife probably prefers routes with other people on (or at least close by on neighbouring routes) as she feels safer when there are other people about. Not everyone wants isolation and adventure, some people like a natter, time for a cup of tea and look at the view and are happy not heading up a warp speed!

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