/ Al's Idea - Wilton 3

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
OliBangbala - on 20 Apr 2013
So.. I did my first e1 today.

Only it definately WAS NOT E1 5C, cant understand how they could get it so far out!? its fairly bold but only 6 meters, and the moves are 4b at a push.. pretty gutted really as the more i thought about it the more i was taking that e1 tick away from myself!

looks like alot of people say the same.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=17205

speaking to a local he said that it could be an arete hidden further right, but the guidebook description is to specific "The technical left arete of the wall" and the line goes straight up the left arete..

Can anybody shed any light?

sorry i realise thats a bit of a rant

Oli
Rampikino - on 20 Apr 2013
In reply to OliBangbala:

Are you looking at the older guide? It was incorrectly described in the older Western Grit...
OliBangbala - on 20 Apr 2013
In reply to Rampikino: ah.. that would be why. What was the alteration out of interest?
Rampikino - on 20 Apr 2013
In reply to OliBangbala:

The true slab is off to the right - the left side of the larger slab - don't recall the name
OliBangbala - on 20 Apr 2013
In reply to OliBangbala: Slab? I thought it was supposed to be an arÍte? (Slabby arete or have they just got it totally wrong??) But that makes sense with what the local told me any how
Calder - on 20 Apr 2013
In reply to Rampikino: Do you mean between Zee and Great Chimney?
Rampikino - on 20 Apr 2013
In reply to OliBangbala:

Apologies

ArÍte left of orange wall I believe
OliBangbala - on 20 Apr 2013
In reply to OliBangbala: damnit.. Gonna have to go and do Tighes arÍte instead ;)
BPT@work on 20 Apr 2013
In reply to OliBangbala:

Hi, Ollie, I was the local you were speaking to this afternoon and I've looked into this since reading your post.

The line you showed me in your Rockfax guide is definitely the wrong line. Their mistake is probably because there is a long-standing mistake in the definitive Lancashire guides which places the easy descent gully in the middle of the small buttress to the left of Great Chimney! The error nudges two climbs (Twin Cracks and Sneck) to the other side of the descent gully and thereby appears to make Al's Idea the first arete on Orange Wall.

The correct line starts under the little roof and uses a left-foot heel-hook to gain the arete.

HTH

M
doris - on 20 Apr 2013
In reply to BPT@work: it was a good effort climbing anything in Wilton 3 today. It's a while since I've been in and was surprised to see 3 cars parked up, a big container with folk hanging around talking (not climbing) and a bin with a fire in it like the bloomin miners strike! With half the quarry in shade and the sunny bit full of smoke, I just walked out and went elsewhere. I know climbing is getting more popular but it seems some taking part these days are transforming into some kind of lifestyle social event!

At least you were getting stuck in!
OliBangbala - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to OliBangbala: thanks for your help today mike..we should go for a climb sometime, reccon I'm up for shivers arÍte when I've done a few more hvs leads..

Doris, I think that they were from the gun club, they appeared to be reinforcing the shooting thing that they presumably shoot at.. But yes, plastic burning in bins, power tools and some people who seemed to come specifically to play football did make for an odd atmosphere!

The E1 quest continues :)
Rampikino - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to OliBangbala:

Shivers ArÍte is fab. Keep your head and it will feel easy.
OliBangbala - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to OliBangbala: yeah looks like one of those where if you get it right then it flows and is very enjoyable.
Rampikino - on 21 Apr 2013
In reply to OliBangbala:

Exactly that. No more than severe up to the peg.

A few reach moves but the holds are great.
doris - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to OliBangbala: shivers is a great route particularly at the end of evening when the suns setting. A sling and a clip and you're up it in a minute or two. For those that consider it a soft touch I recommend doing it in the dark with a head torch for that little extra atmosphere.
robin mueller - on 24 Apr 2013
In reply to OliBangbala:

So if it's not Al's Idea, what route is it?
BPT@work on 24 Apr 2013
In reply to robin mueller:

'Ti'n't described in t'Brick.
GeoffM - on 25 Apr 2013
In reply to doris:
Hi Doris if you where in on a none shooting day Saturday and the cars belonged to gun club members, ( if they are in the quarry they will be ) make a note of their car reg and send to me or Les Ainsworth telling us of any nuisance they where causing
We can then mention it next time we meet them

G
EeeByGum - on 25 Apr 2013
In reply to OliBangbala:

> The E1 quest continues :)

Get yourself to Wilton 1. Climb Cameo (easy but a bit run out in places) and then head up Central Route. If you can nail that without any rests, you are well on your way to calling yourself an E1 leader.
Paul Crusher R - on 25 Apr 2013
In reply to OliBangbala: Al's idea is def 5C, I was with my mate when were trying and he did the fa back in the long distant past. Bit eliminate, you have to force yourself away from a good hold I remember. E1 is a bit of a duff grade, high ball 5C really, and pants, loads of better E1's to choose for your first!
ads.ukclimbing.com
OliBangbala - on 25 Apr 2013
In reply to Paul R: I think the gist of whats been said is that Al's Idea is E1 5C but that the line shown in the old rockfax guide is wrong and therefore not Al's Idea..

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.