/ Al's Idea - Wilton 3
Only it definately WAS NOT E1 5C, cant understand how they could get it so far out!? its fairly bold but only 6 meters, and the moves are 4b at a push.. pretty gutted really as the more i thought about it the more i was taking that e1 tick away from myself!
looks like alot of people say the same.
speaking to a local he said that it could be an arete hidden further right, but the guidebook description is to specific "The technical left arete of the wall" and the line goes straight up the left arete..
Can anybody shed any light?
sorry i realise thats a bit of a rant
Are you looking at the older guide? It was incorrectly described in the older Western Grit...
The true slab is off to the right - the left side of the larger slab - don't recall the name
ArÍte left of orange wall I believe
Hi, Ollie, I was the local you were speaking to this afternoon and I've looked into this since reading your post.
The line you showed me in your Rockfax guide is definitely the wrong line. Their mistake is probably because there is a long-standing mistake in the definitive Lancashire guides which places the easy descent gully in the middle of the small buttress to the left of Great Chimney! The error nudges two climbs (Twin Cracks and Sneck) to the other side of the descent gully and thereby appears to make Al's Idea the first arete on Orange Wall.
The correct line starts under the little roof and uses a left-foot heel-hook to gain the arete.
At least you were getting stuck in!
Doris, I think that they were from the gun club, they appeared to be reinforcing the shooting thing that they presumably shoot at.. But yes, plastic burning in bins, power tools and some people who seemed to come specifically to play football did make for an odd atmosphere!
The E1 quest continues :)
Shivers ArÍte is fab. Keep your head and it will feel easy.
Exactly that. No more than severe up to the peg.
A few reach moves but the holds are great.
So if it's not Al's Idea, what route is it?
'Ti'n't described in t'Brick.
Hi Doris if you where in on a none shooting day Saturday and the cars belonged to gun club members, ( if they are in the quarry they will be ) make a note of their car reg and send to me or Les Ainsworth telling us of any nuisance they where causing
We can then mention it next time we meet them
Get yourself to Wilton 1. Climb Cameo (easy but a bit run out in places) and then head up Central Route. If you can nail that without any rests, you are well on your way to calling yourself an E1 leader.
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