/ What's likely to be in on/around the Ben for Monday/Tuesday
Will Taxus still be in (it's been on my partner's wish list for a while now).
I drove past Beinn an Dothaidh on Friday, plenty of snow still up there but I doubt the steeper routes are really there.
Was up on the Ben today-indicator wall area-cracking ice. Spoke to quite a few folk on the hill: Good friday was done, Glover's chimney, point 5, tower ridge, tower scoop looked good. Obs Buttress looked do-able with colder weather.
Basically high on the Ben I'm sure you'll get something. Glencoe and Bridge of Orchy looked pretty crap on the drive up-just not high enough.
The red burn descent was also really fast today and made things a bit easier on the way down.
hope that helps
Thanks all, I'm presuming we'll be high up on't Ben for at least one of the days. Is anything still in on Aonach Mor (e.g. round the twins)?
For the Ben...Good Friday and Tower Scoop look like good options.
I'd love to do point five/indicator... but I'm not sure whether we're upto a grade V yet. We can handle short sections of vertical ice e.g. the 'grade 5' stuff at the Ice Factor, and outdoors we both comfotably lead/solo grade II and at least Severe, and second grade III and at least HVS.
What do folk reckon? Worth giving a V a go with our insturctror leading, or wait until next winter?
Do you want to learn or be guided up classics? You said it's a course so that answers that.
Aye listen to Milesy, he really knows his stuff
I know f*ck all. Just been following conditions as everyone should as I'm really wanting to get out for a route before it ends. Desperate to get good Friday done for a few years now. Hoping next week. I'm not psyched for rock at all yet.
We've paid for an instructor for two days... so it'll be a bit of a mix of the two really:
My partner's been ice climbing for ~20 years but is a bit timid on leads so wants to push his lead grade to III/IV, (with reassurance that ther's someone to fall back on for encouragment/ take over if he bottles it).
I've only got a handful of leads/solos under my belt, so just trying to get the most learning out of the two days and nib any bad habits in the bud. i.e. an accelerated ice appreniceship. I'm after being comfortable with my ability to place and assess ice anchors and what 'good ice' and 'bad ice' look like. At present it's along the lines of blue ice good - eg in a frozen bubblegum margarita, bubbly ice - bad e.g. s Laphroaig and lemonade on the rocks.
Well you could spend a day on technique and a III and if your guide thinks you are both competent and confident then you could suggest something harder. I wouldn't sacrifice knowledge for a tick though :)
as in hyperion records, pal?!
Thanks all, just got back.
Pete from the Ice Factor did a Stirling job yet again... We had a play on the first night indoors and I’ve seen a definite improvement in my stamina and axe placements since February, although my footwork is still a bit ropy, (I still seem determined to climb on my tiptoes).
Anyway… managed 6 routes, ,most of which were done cleanly, and even managed to get ~ half way up the mixed route in the cave, which I was well chuffed with.
We took in the wonderful Scottish summer weather and did a bit of avalanche spotting on Creag Meagaidh, whilst seconding/top-roping/dogging The Pumpkin.
Then on day two we headed over to Corrie an t'Sneachda and did the crux pitch of Aladdin's Mirror direct on top rope (and yes, we still have all of our axes). Rounding up the trip with a lead on an unnamed gully to the right of the Goat Track Gully at about (III, 3/4).
I was a great confidence building trip and a fab end to my first winter season (unless of course stuff on the Cuillin is still in at the end of May). I’m now happy I can look after myself on Grade III ground and get dragged up an easy IV/V next season.
Anyho, I’m off to smear myself in deep-heat and get up against the radiator.
Always good to hear what folks got up to, after a thread asking about routes or conditions.
Nice video - Pete said you'd put quite a lot of effort into getting some footage. Do you mind if we share it on the Ice Factor fb page?
Guys, just back on thread, is there much snow left on the CMD? Bringing a novice pal of mine up tomorrow for a winter day on Sat, so I thought up No3 and down the ridge. Been off the UK hills for a couple of weeks, so lost the feel for the conditions. What's the cornice like on 3 btw?
Yep it was our instructor on the RHS (Pete). It woiuld have been a tad antisocial for someone to lead though :)
Pete led the pitch, and Jon was going to have a go at leading on Pete's gear placements, but ended up top-roping instead (Grade II to IV was a bit too big of a step up.
Thanks Isi, feel free to link it where-ever :)
The filming wasn't too bad (pretty much just point and click), but the Stuff on the mirror was done whilst belaying, so most of the footage was of the sky/Richard's axes/a rock etc.
I've emailed the ice factor links to a couple of other vids too. (As well as the Scottish/ice factor ones, there are a couple of Welsh and English grade I-II/III routes featured on the Club's gallery page)
Didn't do anything on the Ben in the end. Can't tell from the webcam:
http://www.visit-fortwilliam.co.uk/the-ben-nevis-webcam-fort-william-scotland... but we were told all the lower stuff had gone, and most of the buttresses had been stripped. Someone did Zero on tuesday though:
On Monday most of the cornices at Creag Meagaidh (N/NE facing @ ~1000m) were in the process of falling down, but it was chucking it down and blowing a gale in every direction at once!
Brill, thanks Adam. Glad you guys had a good couple of days :)
Pictures from above my house: http://alanhalewood.blogspot.co.uk/2013/04/an-unexpected-day-off-and-more-fresh.html
Thanks Alan - With the forecast, it'll be a good day whatever eh!?
Sacked the idea of a gully due to SAIS, and even Ledge route due to the time spent in No.5, so we just did the CMD, which was in splendid condition.
Must say I thought the SAIS slightly over-egged the pudding from what I saw, but better to be safe than sorry I suppose.......
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