/ Climbing on Lundy?

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BossHog - on 24 Apr 2013
Hi,

Toying with the idea of arranging a trip to Lundy. Just wondered if anyone that has been has any advice/tips

1) Costs for a week there
2) Best routes
3)Best time of year to go

Any help will be very welcome

Cheers
AndrewHuddart - on 24 Apr 2013
In reply to robcaesar:

Costs for this summer:

Camping is 12 pp/night
Return ticket on the oldenburg: 62 each
Parking at Ilfrabombe is 20-ish for a week

Bird ban ends on 31 Jul so most people go after that and September generally brings the best weather.

Plenty of info on here is you search - and the Lundy Shore Office always answer questions quickly.
AndrewHuddart - on 24 Apr 2013
In reply to AndrewHuddart:

Oh, and routes: what grade are the looking at and how long's a piece of strong... search the forums on here, look in the logbooks on here an read the guide! There's a lot to go at.
victim of mathematics - on 24 Apr 2013
In reply to robcaesar:

There's enough non bird-banned stuff to go at to keep you occupied for at least a long weekend i'd have thought if you want to go out of the usual climbing season. Plenty of good areas don't get nested on (usually) - Devil's Slide, Landing Craft Bay, Flying Buttress...
Slarti B on 24 Apr 2013
In reply to robcaesar:
Went last year in September for 4 days and it was fantastic. There has been a recent thread on Lundy advice which I haven't got time to search for but included:
- check tide times before deciding on date, big tides there
- take a spare belay device!
- take abseil rope if you can
- if you want to climb the afternoon you arrive then don't put climbing gear in ships hold, keep it as carry on luggage.
BossHog - on 24 Apr 2013
In reply to AndrewHuddart: Cool, pretty cheap then looking grades upto HVS


BossHog - on 24 Apr 2013
In reply to Slarti B: Ok cheers for the advice, does it get busy on peak times or is it usually quiet?
AndrewHuddart - on 24 Apr 2013
In reply to robcaesar:

Depends - Devil's Slide will have folk on it most days, as will the Flying Buttress and Beufort buttress as well as some of the easy classics (Seal Slab). Other areas are likely to be quieter and you'll probably not see anyone else on the crag: except for on the Devil's Slide, I don't imagine you'll be in a queue!

I've found it a quiet place and, although I've only climbed up to VS there on most of my trips, I keep going back!

Enjoy it - I'm sure others will be able to recommend stuff around HVS.

The tavern gets pretty busy though...
Bobling - on 24 Apr 2013
In reply to robcaesar:

Whilst camping is the cheap option I'd seriously recommend a stay in one of the Landmark Trust places, true it is more pricey but the experience is well worth it! http://www.landmarktrust.org.uk/Search-and-book/location/lundy/
Deviant - on 24 Apr 2013
In reply to Bobling:
> (In reply to robcaesar)
>
> Whilst camping is the cheap option I'd seriously recommend a stay in one of the Landmark Trust places, true it is more pricey but the experience is well worth it! http://www.landmarktrust.org.uk/Search-and-book/location/lundy/



Thanks for that ! I must confess that camping in the UK has never been my preferred type of lodgings !

Has any one ever done any shore-fishing out there ?
Duncan Bourne - on 24 Apr 2013
In reply to robcaesar:

Camping is the cheapest option but beware if the rain/wind is up as tents have been known to blow away! But on the plus side you don't have to book a year in advance to camp there as you will almost certainly have to do with other accommodation.

The climbing is great though. In addition to those already mentioned:
Albion VS (next to Satan's slip)
Nonexpectis Jugsimisus HVS (A confident approach required to start the ball rolling)
American Beauty HVS (long ab rope advisable if you have one)
Diamond Solitaire VS (start may be damp & greasy)
Horseman's Route HS (a drier alternative)

Kevster - on 24 Apr 2013
In reply to Deviant:
I think there are marine park restrictions on parts of the island coast, I don't know but look into it before assuming. There are certainly fishing spots though. Rocky coast with big tides, take gear which can cope.

Lundy is excellent.

Ab rope essential, probably for fishing too.
Kevster - on 24 Apr 2013
In reply to Kevster:
2nd Mr Bartfast's coments too.
Deviant - on 24 Apr 2013
In reply to Kevster:
> (In reply to Deviant)
> I think there are marine park restrictions on parts of the island coast, I don't know but look into it before assuming. There are certainly fishing spots though. Rocky coast with big tides, take gear which can cope.
>
> Lundy is excellent.
>
> Ab rope essential, probably for fishing too.

I've fished a few spots in S.W Ireland where I've used a rope to get down and been rewarded with some monster pollock for my efforts. There are some fantastic cliffs in that part of the World: Mizen Head and Sheepshead, but as yet, I've never seen a climber.
BossHog - on 25 Apr 2013
In reply to Duncan Bourne: Wicked, cheers for that, really fancy a bash at Satans Slip aswell! Looks like a great pitch but not much experience on Granite!!
BALD EAGLE - on 25 Apr 2013
In reply to robcaesar:
> (In reply to Duncan Bourne) Wicked, cheers for that, really fancy a bash at Satans Slip aswell! Looks like a great pitch but not much experience on Granite!!

Hi Rob
I second all the helpful advice you've been given already and would add routes such as Integrity (HS), Eclipse (VS), Shamrock (VS) and definitely Satans Slip (E1) as well as it is a top route but bold, run-out 5a climbing...
All the routes on the Slide are well worth doing and if interested the following is a short film from our groups trip last September featuring ascents of The Devils Slide and Integrity on Needle Rock sea stack!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7W8KBOAh9I4
Cheers Dave

Tom Last - on 25 Apr 2013
In reply to robcaesar:

In case you're not already aware, the definitive Lundy HVS Formula One is sadly no more, so don't bother abbing in for it!
pebbles - on 25 Apr 2013
In reply to BALD EAGLE: Approach to eclipse is tricky though - leave your abseil rope fixed in position or you'll have trouble getting back again across the crumbling ridge
Hephaestus - on 25 Apr 2013
In reply to Southern Man:
> (In reply to robcaesar)
>
> In case you're not already aware, the definitive Lundy HVS Formula One is sadly no more, so don't bother abbing in for it!

Reclimbed Sept last year by one of the lads on our trip. Grade unconfirmed, though.

And the neighbouring Indy 500 at E1 is a great alternative

Jim
Duncan Bourne - on 25 Apr 2013
In reply to robcaesar:
If you like slabs then Satan's Slip is a MUST! The first pitch is a lot easier and protectable. The second pitch does have runners but they are WELL spaced (small wires and cams), a confident cool approach is required until you reach the junction with Albion.
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Tom Last - on 25 Apr 2013
In reply to Hephaestus:

Ah, good work. Is it any good though?
Hephaestus - on 25 Apr 2013
In reply to Southern Man:

Well the lower 2/3rds was the same as it always was, and the top 1/3 was sandy and loose. Might be better now it's had the winter to stabilise, but, as I said, the re-ascentionist did not offer a grade.

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