/ Best crags - South Devon
Sadly, Berryhead is out of bounds now.
Daddyhole/Parsons Hole/Meadfoot - can two of the crags easily be paired up in a day?
Dartmoor Tors - Hound, Bench, Hay I've been to, any others?
About summs my knowledge. Anywhere else we should consider?
Dewerstone on Dartmoor. Good for multipitch and lots of routes.
Berryhead Coastguard Cliffs (Red Walls and the Eastern and Western Shelf) aren't banned. A sun trap with some nice climbs at your grade range.
It is easy to climb at Daddyhole, Parsons and Meadfoot in the same day. Daddyhole has the longest approach time. An abseil down Triton can be the quickest way if you can find the top.
There are more Torbay options than you have listed. Long Quarry Point has some good stuff but some serious choss too. Sanctuary wall has a couple of Devon's finest E0's in Sacrosanct and Incubus. At Anstey's Acheron (HVS) and Moonshot (E1) are well worth doing.
Luckey Tor may not have the range of routes others offer, but is a idyllic day out, in the valley below Bench Tor. Walk in from Dartmeet and enjoy the riverside approach. The Tor is beautifully located and has a clutch of good routes - certainly enough for a day and a great place to camp, if you wanted.
IMO Chudleigh is highly underrated for good limestone trad, single & multi-pitch. Sheltered, peaceful, and at those grades you won't see much polish.
and another vote for dewerstone. one of my all time favourite crags for atmosphere, routes, and quality rock.
> and another vote for dewerstone. one of my all time favourite crags for atmosphere, routes, and quality rock.
Not so yesterday as it was very greasy in the low missle! I was shocked to se how green the crag was...must be all the recent bad weather.
it does say about it in the rockfax book, and will certainly be mentioned on the BMC RAD.
I nearly called it the RAD database then, but that would have hot me in trouble :-)
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