/ Best crags - South Devon

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Owen W-G - on 24 Apr 2013
Good variety of grades VS-E2

Sadly, Berryhead is out of bounds now.

Daddyhole/Parsons Hole/Meadfoot - can two of the crags easily be paired up in a day?

Chudleigh

Dartmoor Tors - Hound, Bench, Hay I've been to, any others?

About summs my knowledge. Anywhere else we should consider?
knthrak1982 on 24 Apr 2013
In reply to Owen W-G:

Dewerstone on Dartmoor. Good for multipitch and lots of routes.
Kafoozalem - on 24 Apr 2013
In reply to Owen W-G:

Berryhead Coastguard Cliffs (Red Walls and the Eastern and Western Shelf) aren't banned. A sun trap with some nice climbs at your grade range.

It is easy to climb at Daddyhole, Parsons and Meadfoot in the same day. Daddyhole has the longest approach time. An abseil down Triton can be the quickest way if you can find the top.

There are more Torbay options than you have listed. Long Quarry Point has some good stuff but some serious choss too. Sanctuary wall has a couple of Devon's finest E0's in Sacrosanct and Incubus. At Anstey's Acheron (HVS) and Moonshot (E1) are well worth doing.
Cheese Monkey - on 24 Apr 2013
In reply to Owen W-G: Very easy to combine Meadfoot and Parsons Hole, a short walk from each other with the car park in the middle of the two. Highly recommend abseiling down Triton or if you can find a line further up even better, the approach path is steep and the boulder hopping long. Dewerstone excellent around those grades
Motown - on 25 Apr 2013
In reply to Owen W-G: Suggest just combining Daddyhole and Parson's Hole if one has to go - Meadfoot a bit grubbier. Last Exit to Torquay is a must at Daddyhole and Crinoid at Parson's Hole. These are both usually quick to dry in case of poor weather. You could link the two with a great DWS on Aqua Marina Wall.

Luckey Tor may not have the range of routes others offer, but is a idyllic day out, in the valley below Bench Tor. Walk in from Dartmeet and enjoy the riverside approach. The Tor is beautifully located and has a clutch of good routes - certainly enough for a day and a great place to camp, if you wanted.

thomb - on 25 Apr 2013
In reply to Owen W-G:

IMO Chudleigh is highly underrated for good limestone trad, single & multi-pitch. Sheltered, peaceful, and at those grades you won't see much polish.
kyaizawa - on 25 Apr 2013
In reply to Owen W-G: Another vote for the Dewerstone - was there over Easter and it is fantastic!!
derryclimbs - on 25 Apr 2013
In reply to Owen W-G:

and another vote for dewerstone. one of my all time favourite crags for atmosphere, routes, and quality rock.
Sean Kelly - on 25 Apr 2013
In reply to derryclimbs:
> (In reply to Owen W-G)
>
> and another vote for dewerstone. one of my all time favourite crags for atmosphere, routes, and quality rock.

Not so yesterday as it was very greasy in the low missle! I was shocked to se how green the crag was...must be all the recent bad weather.
Rockhopper85 - on 25 Apr 2013
In reply to Owen W-G: Dewerstone is amazing :) love it there. Umm, is Berryhead banned? I was planning to go there next month... Dangers of forum life... Misinformation
Cheese Monkey - on 26 Apr 2013
In reply to Rockhopper85: What misinformation? Parts of Berry Head are subject to bird bans. There is a cctv camera and you will get caught and fined. Go to the open parts as Kafoozalem suggested
ledifer on 26 Apr 2013
In reply to Rockhopper85:

it does say about it in the rockfax book, and will certainly be mentioned on the BMC RAD.

I nearly called it the RAD database then, but that would have hot me in trouble :-)

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