/ well protected severe's in lakes.
What about Original Route on Raven (Langdale)? One of the belay stances feels a little daunting as it's semi-hanging (if I remember rightly) but the gear is bomber. A lovely route!
(reposted with the right name - I'm an idiot... :-) )
You could consider a visit to Gouther crag in Swindale, which would offer 3 good quality climbs starting with a VDiff to get the feel of the rock-Truss buttress. Move round the buttress and do a short open book corner Severe called Sam-well protected once you are in the corner. Then move across to the next buttress to do the classic mild severe-Kennel Wall is well protected but not a pushover. Can be done as one 1 or 2 pitch. Only visit in high summer in a dry spell as the sun can take a while to come round and dry off any dampness. Enjoy
The Gouther suggestion is interesting, all those routes are good value. Unless we have a very wet spell they will be in condition from May onwards, Kennel Wall definitely one for the afternoon.
I'm not sure I agree that the traverse is the real crux at that grade (though point taken about gear lifting out) - the final moves on the top pitch are quite intimidating. But, anyway, I think this is probably fair as a reasonably well protected if memorable/slightly stiff outing at the grade.
Centipede on Raven is a pretty nice outing with several short and varied pitches
Whilst I agree that Truss Buttress and Kennel Wall would be v good and are well protected, I would take issue with Sam being a sensible choice. Quite a bold start and I have no idea how the crux around the start of the groove is 'only' severe. Absolute top end Severe at the least so not the best start.
The last pitch is somewhat broken and we skipped it, traversing off right and down a gully to descend - well, I slipped on wet grass and fell 15m down the crag. Oops. Don't do that at home, kids.
I think Raven is pretty good at Severe generally. Not novice routes exactly but I don't think the OP was asking for that. As someone said, the routes on the LHS (Evening Wall/Original Route etc) are pretty good if slightly intimidating due to belays and slightly unusual gear placements. Centipede probably similar tho can't recall that much about it. Wouldn't want to fall down any of those gulleys and of course there have been some unfortunate fatalities with falls on the descent from the main crag.
Other than those mentioned, I'm struggling to come up with interesting but well protected severes in the Lakes. I always founds the Lakes routes to be a little more tricky to protect than their Welsh equivalents. It's just the rock type really. South Crag of Castle Rock is charming and sunny but the easier routes are not well protected imho eg. Wall Climb/Slab Climb.
Something like Thomas (?) at Wallowbarrow?
And if the OP hasn't been to Shepherds then def Little Chamonix (stiff V Diff).
Agree Sam has a bold start, hence my comment about good gear once in the corner. However it has the merit that the slab into the corner is easily viewable and anyone not liking what they see can pass on by. It would of course help if we knew a little more about the OP's previous experience and equally important, the experience and competence of his probable second.
> I'm not sure I agree that the traverse is the real crux at that grade (though point taken about gear lifting out) - the final moves on the top pitch are quite intimidating. But, anyway, I think this is probably fair as a reasonably well protected if memorable/slightly stiff outing at the grade.
The traverse pitch is not difficult - and as for gear lifting out when bringing the second across, the first moves are the easiest and the second is least likely to get in to bother there. The second will have a rope above them when tackling the supposed crux moves up the wall at the end of the traverse. I always found the hardest bit of the route was climbing the black groove to get up on to the slab and belay at the start of the traverse -- but that's probably down to my bad technique.
I used to really enjoy getting out to Kestrel Wall (and Sobrenada at a higher grade) at Eagle Crag early season but I seem to recall that was a little unnerving at the start. In fact, all the routes at that crag are unnerving. Rights of passage though! :)
Scabby Horse slightly higher up that side of Truss Buttress is a great first VS I think. Great gear at the crux which is a bit of one or two move wonder. I seem to recall the opening ramp has ok protection.
Anyway, around Kennel Wall there is also Left Edge and I think another route at Severe. So great crag choice. I'd avoid that bird poo filled chimney between Bloodhound and the hanging slab though - my god that's a disgusting (and hard) experience. Used to regularly rescue people from that with a handy TR.
Gillercombe Buttress for a bit of a longer mountain route
As previously mentioned Thomas on Wallowbarrow is nice & friendly
Never done Scabby horse so might check it out next time there. I entirely agree with your comments aout the corner severe right of Kennel wall which I presume is Hindleg Crack, which in my opinion is a thoroughly UNpleasant sandbag comprised of jammed blocks and flakes and not one for an aspiring severe leader. Can't quite follow the description for Left Edge so haven't tried it yet.
> Centipede on Raven is a pretty nice outing with several short and varied pitches
... but is NOT well-protected - 2nd pitch very bold.
Very bold ? nothing out of the ordinary for severe I wouldn't have thought.
Also you could have a proper mountain day and climb a route on Pikes Crag like Grooved Arrete or Juniper Buttress (MS) descend to Mickledore and then do Pisgah Buttress, also MS.
Grey Crag - great call. High and cold right now tho?
hows 'via media' for gear. thats a pitch i would really like to lead. have top roped it in the past but wasn't looking for gear.
You can put so much gear in that you may risk reversing the earth's polarity if you're not careful.
> Very bold ? nothing out of the ordinary for severe I wouldn't have thought.
See A Mountain Journey's reply. I rest my case.
Entirely agree with that Andy. I always advise using a very good spike belay a little way above the exit from the slab from where you can clearly see the second.
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