/ UKC fit club week 320

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biscuit - on 05 May 2013
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (319) thread:

Ali – Running is always simpler than getting kit together and going climbing. Try to keep the other aspects going ( diet, fingerboard ? ) while work is getting in the way.
Daniel heath – Did you hit 65kg ?
IainRUK – I totally missed that last week. New pb in bad conditions and with no one to push you is excellent.
Si dH – On holiday
kylieo – For goals look at consolidating 6c onsights ( different types of route or a 50% success rate ? ) and obviously another 7b with a 7b+ goal by end of Summer. Just a thought.
Eagle river – Anything to report ?????????????
AJM – it'll be so worth it when the van is done
Exile – Did you get Ivy League ?
Need kraken – A good week. V4 is a good standard and trad has to be done at your own pace. Just keep leading everytime you get out. The grade does not matter. Once it starts to feel familiar it will improve. You can't force your brain to learn it's safe you have to teach it by example and that can take time.
Sankey – Have you managed to get back out and look at another 7a ?
Leon – Good steady goals
Pork Pie Girl – love your sportive write up, sounds like a right laugh ! Any progress to report from your 2nd home ? p.s. I bought a turbo trainer. Owch they're hard work.
Jimmykay – looks like things are well set up for a successful return visit
Ian bell – how's the ankle ?
Curious yellow – how is infernal din going ? I am guessing you're on it this weekend.
Mattrm – See the races as part of the UTMB build up I guess. I couldn't imagine setting out on an ultra without the psyche to do it.
NMN – Outdoors twice in a week, good stuff. Have you got out this wekeend ?
Northernclamberer – I have no idea what you're going on about with work but it sounds stressful. We can't have good weeks every week. Just make the best of what you can. Hope this week ( and the job interview ) went well.
Grubes – First UK 7a of the year. Well done. I reckon it was the belayer that made the difference ;-)
Joughton – AMAZING ! Running out of superlatives for all your achievements this year
Biscuit – Stuck with kids trying to get what I can done
Nomics – Well done last week. A deserved success and a quick RP too really. What's next ?
Seankenny – Good work on the E1 – and the fall !
Luke Owens – Did you go for the RP ? Sounds to me like you should be doing. Hope you're feeling a bit more energetic this week.
Ally Smith – I was with Grubes and again obviously didn't realise it was you. Hope Santa Linya is getting crushed and your finger holds out.
Twigger - I hope this week went better. Don't push it if you're feeling ill.
mbh – great consistent mileage and cardio. How did the mini coast to coast go ? Great to have a willing partner to do it with
kevster – hope you are getting out and carrying on the excellent trad standard
Stevemarkperry – are you getting out this weekend ?
DocturU – hope you enjoy Pembroke. If that place doesn't encourage you out of a slump nowhere will
biscuit - on 05 May 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Well i got it done.

All it needs now is someone to come along with an amazing piece of news to start it off.

Does anyone know if anyone has done anything worthwhile last week ?
Eagle River - on 05 May 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Thanks biscuit.

I'm totally taking the bait, I figure most people must know by know, what with my Facebook post, group text, full page advert I bought in Summit.

Goal: 8a by end of 2013 - tick.

Mon: Craig y longridge, fell at the very last move of the 2nd 5th bit of the traverse, couldn't get on fertile delta SDS as it was wet.

Thurs: Malham, did Toadal Recall 3rd RP attempt of the day. Still smiling to myself about that. Was properly shaking at the top with fear of falling off the easier bit having got fully through the crux for the first time. Took a BIG fall on RP attempt 2, one move from the easier bit which seemed to spur me on.

Totally made up to get an 8a. The route really suited me and took 5 sessions in total, about 17 attempts in all. I'm away on a non climbing trip for a couple of weekends so will have a think of what to do next. Fancy the classic 7cs at Kilnsey, Subculture too then maybe look at an 8a that's solid at the grade like zoolook (seeing as some think Toadal is soft).

Still, psyched out of my tiny mind.
biscuit - on 05 May 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

Nice one mate

I'm dead chuffed for you.

Enjoy the break and come back strong and rested.
Ali - on 05 May 2013
In reply to biscuit: Thanks Biscuit - hopefully got a couple of climbing weekends coming up so looking forward to getting out.

Eagle River - awesome work mate, you are a beast

M - fingerboard (7x crimp, 7x pocket, 7x slopers), couple of frenchies
T - BMF - lots of hill reps which was hard work but good - need to do more of these! Felt a bit knackered going in but still seemed to do ok
W - Biscuit Factory - quite a good session, managed to tick a problem I had been working on and got a few new ones. Felt a bit sniffly
T - ran ~4.5miles on way in to work. Over next couple of hours deteriorated into full blown head cold. Yuk.
F - nothing
S - nothing - friend's wedding in peak - lovely day, ate too much cake
S - would have gone for a run but still feeling shocking, so went for a walk along stangage - I guess a couple of hours so around 6 miles?

Still feeling pretty rotten which is a bit gutting as was hoping to be better for climbing tomorrow. Fingers crossed I magically recuperate overnight!
grubes - on 05 May 2013
In reply to biscuit:
> Grubes – First UK 7a of the year. Well done. I reckon it was the belayer that made the difference ;-)

STG (July 2013):
Climb 7a or harder in UK and abroad - Tick
Regularly try and lead cracks and committing laybacks
Climb on gogarth
Climb on the cromlech
Lead E3 try onsight
LTG (End of 2013):
Top out the chief
Boulder 7A/V6 UK and try get one in Squamish.
Climb Great wall at squamish
Plan a font trip

This Weeks Goals:
Trad - Tick

M: Rest
T: Rest - Injections
w: Wimberry boulders - Feeling pretty ill from injections repeated a lot of stuff nothing new
T: Rest - still ill
F: Stanage Popular - Nice evening ticking classics with no crowds
2xVS 2xHS 1xHVD all complete classics lead them all.
S: Rest football feeling hungover
S: Holmfirth nothing new but progress on my 7A project. nice day

Next week goals:

Nice week to say I was completely knocked on my arse for a couple of days from my travel injections
Needkraken - on 05 May 2013
In reply to biscuit: Have been feeling really ill this week so quite pleased that I've still managed to get out quite a bit and climb reasonably hard despite crawling up and wanting to nap on the bouldering mat!

STG - boulder 6a , get more confident outdoors, keep the psyche
MTG - 6b sport, E1 trad on second, get psyche to lead
LTG - to not be the one in the group that people have to lower their grade for

M/T - Busy as usual so nothing
W - Ended up at winberry, ticked a problem (elephants bum 5+) that I was nowhere near earlier this year. Also did a couple of highball 3's with minimum gibbering!
T - feeling rough, night in
F - After work run down to stanage, seconded 5 routes all clean lots of different styles and taught myself a bit of jamming technique
S - Went to Almscliff, still a crag that totally sucks my psyche. Achieved very little apart from being cold
S - Bouldering with a group of mates, we were planning on Buckstones but it was so wet we went to Holmfirth again. Showed a few people how to climb some easier stuff, got a few new ticks and my first 6a! Grubes said I'd got the wrong hold until checking the topo later so didn't get to celebrate there! Still haven't got my other 6a project but close =)

Overall good week, fingers a bit broken right now but there's still another day of the long weekend left xD
Joughton on 05 May 2013
In reply to Eagle River: I haven't been stalking you so I wasn't aware, but well done mate! Dead pleased for you, but I've never heard any mention of Toadall being soft, just bouldery. I'd agree with the Kilnsey plan - you don't want become too Malham-y if that makes sense?

From what I've heard though Zoolook is definitely solid at the grade, if I were you I'd be much more tempted just to jump straight to 8a+ - GBH maybe? All this talk of 'getting solid at the grade' is for people who don't like improving;)
Joughton on 05 May 2013
In reply to biscuit: Cheers Biscuit! Managed to get out trad climbing for the first time since last summer which felt great, a quick evening out on moorland grit.

Mon - Bouldering for two hours on the board at home, focussing on P.E by doing 5 intense laps of the steep board with short rests.
Tue - rest
Wed - Pule Hill - a fine crag indeed. Warmed up following Dad up a HVS, then jumped on an E3 called Plum Popper. It was a little bold as the gear protecting the crux was about halfway between the ground and the last hard move, but Dad was ready to run backwards. After a little while figuring out a static way to do the crux it went pretty cruisily onsight We moved to the quarry to escape the wind and I finished leading a good E2.
Thurs - was going to have a rest day but it was so sunny I went for a run for the first time in ages. Wasn't as rubbish as I thought I'd be, so I'll be running more I think this year just to keep in shape.
Fri - rest
Sat - rest
Sun - Was up in the lakes to see family, hoped to get some trad done but it was too rainy so we went to Kendal wall - again! Avoided the leading ladder routes, and onsighted: 6b, 6c, 6c+, 7a+, 7a, 7b+ all on the big lead wall for some trad endurance. Fell off a 7c but got as far as the 7b lower-off, and did some bouldering to finish for a P.E burn-out.

So a good week for me, training wise but also because E3 on grit is pretty good for me when I haven't climbed on it in six months!

I've spent the last six months of thursdays volunteering at a GP, but now it's exam time I've quit so that now gives me my thursday afternoon off back which will be nice! Obviously the priority is revision at the moment but hopefully I'll still get in a few sessions a week.

mbh - on 05 May 2013
In reply to biscuit: Cheers!

The partner for the coast to coast thing turned out to be my wife, today, and we walked it, inspired by my step-son, who ran it mid week when I couldn't make it. No, really.

M - 8.1 miles
T - 6 miles around town
W - 7.2 miles - new coast path variant that didn't go as planned.
T - 8.25 miles
F - 5.1 miles around town
S - 11.3 miles, flat, average 8:00 pace, 2 k swimming, 12.5 mile cycling as part of the logistics for the next day.
S - walk Fowey to Padstow, ie south coast to north coast, about 27 miles, 1000 m ish of ascent, 9 hours. Totally shagged out now. Does this bode well for us doing the Welsh 3000s in three weeks? Learned a few things, anyway, about keeping the feet OK (they didn't do too well today), what to eat, that stopping for food, even for 5 minutes, is probably worse than just slowing down while eating on the move, that my GPS watch doesn't agree with the OS map or the Runkeeper app (first time I have used it) , when normally it does when I run. Sadly,m we arrived at Padstow just as the speedboat accident response was in full flow.

45 m running, with several at sub 7:45, even a couple at sub 7:30, a long walk and a triathlon day. Good. I stuck to flattish runs to help the wierd calf thing that brought me to a halt last week, and it seems to have helped.
NorthernClamberer - on 05 May 2013
In reply to Eagle River: Well done! 8a is frigging awesome!

In reply to Biscuit, I didn't do anything notable but I did do something!

STG: Get outside as much as possible (fat chance). Have the opportunity to lead as many VDiffs etc as I can find. OS 5+ outside without fear!
MTG: OS 6a. Get a solid load of trad under the belt. Lose two stone.
LTG: OS 6b. Lead HVS. Second some totally awesome multipitch.

Monday: Colleagues leaving do, wine not wall!
Tuesday: Crap club session as documented last week!
Wednesday: Nothing
Thursday: Gadding about Edinburgh
Friday: Job interview
Saturday: Touristing with visiting friends
Sunday: Trad outing!!!! Whoooop!!!!

So today was a bit of an adventure. After various turns of events, it looked like it would be another trip to the quarry for sport but "The 30ft giant who knows what he is doing" decided that actually a bit of trad was possible. We did a peedie ab down to the base of the sea cliff (there was a bit of a swell on!) and he climbed something, Linda followed and I seconded. There was a hard bit I didn't like at all and I couldn't get a cam out easily and I wasn't happy at all but I got up it clean and then I found out it was actually an HS which not bad for first climb of the day!

Next up, my lead.... I went for the nice VDiff so another fun ab down and then off I set. Managed it fine, not scared, not worried, really enjoyed it and gave a good old whoop at the top because........ IT WAS MY FIRST PROPER TRAD LEAD!!! WHOOOOOOOOOOPPPPPPP WHOOOOOOP!!!!!!! I was pleased.....

Then I had a nightmare with an HVS after TOWKWHD lead an E1 and I was following up on the adjacent route. Let's just say there had to be hauling and I was not happy on many, many levels. This was a low point of the day!

Decided I wasn't finishing on a negative so I went to the quarry to get on a route (5+) I was too pumped to climb last time. He was a bit greasy but I did it and topped out fine so was pleased with that.

Totally stoked with my first lead and so keen to do more now.

biscuit - on 05 May 2013
In reply to biscuit:

After my butt kicking on UK limestone i have got my mojo back. Also really motivating to see Grubes, Nomics and Eagle River all achieve in a short space of time. While i've got the psyche i'm going to use it.

I have a cycling/turbo trainer question towards the bottom if anyone could help.

Got the kids by myself until 13th and it's proving harder then negotiating with Mrs Biscuit for climbing time. Extra TV time and ice creams have been brought out as bribes.

Looking back my 'training' for the tri has been pitiful. 5 visits to the pool and 6 bike rides. Looks like it'll be the usual 'try and fit it all into the last month' training schedule then

M - broken from weekend. 30 min run.

T - Flying back to Spain. Bought a turbo trainer from Decathlon on the way home.

W - Ill - bloody airline food

T - Still ill with enforced 5/2 fasting and rapid weight loss program, if you catch my drift.

F - First go on turbo trainer. 25mins. OWCH ! ALso did my weighted pull ups/one arm work routine, but not at max, to wake my muscles up a bit.

S - Bouldering @ Rosario. Beautiful day for it and first time since this time last year. Went to my favourite problem. It's a steep, fingery, 11 move 6C+/7A i got 2nd go last year. Couldn't even do the standing start at 6C. Oops ! I suspected i had taken my eye off the ball and this kind of confirms it. Good session though. Felt just worked enough.
Turbo trainer - first time with heart rate monitor. 25mins again. Even more owch.

S - El Torcalito - good session. Nearly got the warm up traverse done in one. I used to be able to do laps on it. ANother wake up call. I moved very positively on the main wall and nearly got a 6 move up problem done (6A+) followed by the lip traverse of another 10 moves or soon 40 degree territory. I did one more attempt than i normally would just to beast myself a bit.

Turbo trainer - interval session. Gave up after 30 mins of 45 min session.

If anyone's read this far down i am finding it very hard to get my heart rate up on the TT without my legs feeling like they are going to drop off. First time with a HRM for years and pleased to see my resting rate is still about 50. I used to be able to run at 175-180bpm quite comfortable and extrapolated from that that i should be aiming for 160-165 on the trainer. This is not getting me out of breath but is killing my legs. My bike doesn't have a 'big' ring as it's a hybrid thing so i don't know if that's the problem. I've got it on full resistance.

Should i drop the resistance and spin faster or plough on and adapt to the pain ?

This week's goals:

3x turbo sessions ( Booo ! )
1x real bike ride of an hour ( slight boo ! )
1x lopez style weighted hangs - just thought i'd give it a go
1x weighted pull ups/one arm work
1x Boulder - crack the stand start and start working the sit
1x torcalito - do the warm up travers and the up problem and full lip traverse
1x press up workout and lower back chain workout
Possibly a lake swim as well if i can get child care organised - actually quite looking forward to that.
NMN - on 05 May 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Thanks biscuit.

No climbing this weekend, but managed two trad outings this week.
I like your comment about leading to needkraken above, I have been very impatient to want to get leading properly again and wasn't sure if I was feeling right on the first two outings after a long lay off, I hate the 'getting back in to it' stage, but I lead a VS at Birchen on Friday and felt good, so it appears to be moving in the right direction.

Running goals:
Snowdon Race - 1h 35m.
Edale Skyline - 4h.
Ben Nevis Race - 2h 20m.

Get out climbing again & regularly onsighting VS / HS.
Push trad grade.
Lead a tough E1.

M: - 4.05m treadmill, 0.4% (1km speed reps off 60s).
T: - Stanage Popular routes.
W: - 5.75m hills, 3,524ft.
T: – 7.46m trail run, 796ft.
F: - Birchen routes.
S: - 6.01m trail run, 755ft.
S: - 2.98m hills, 1,784ft.
pork pie girl - on 06 May 2013
In reply to Eagle River: fooking awesome!!! love it! have a great rest and you'll be chomping at the bit to get on your next project.

happy days!!!
pork pie girl - on 06 May 2013
In reply to Joughton: agree
pork pie girl - on 06 May 2013
In reply to biscuit: hiya.. i'm not expert on training for cycling but my advice would be to push through the muscle pain for intervals, your legs will adapt, as long as you're not getting knee pain in doing so. but i like grinding through rather than spinning fast. do stuff like sets of 5 min blasts with higher cadence ... then back off for a minute or two.. dropping resistence and pace... i do this for about 4 or 5 sets then push it harder for another 20 mins... you'll find the time on your bike goes quicker training like this. If you can only manage 30 mins at the moment that's fine, slowly build it up.

maybe a good plan to go on the cyling forum for advice... i train in the gym where there's a couple fo cyclist who do time trials... so chatting to them that helped me identify the good stuff i'm doing and add some other things to improve my pace.

let us know how you get on

pork pie girl - on 06 May 2013
In reply to biscuit: last week went like this...
sunday- sportive.. wrynose or bust
monday- rest..
tuesday- gym after work...int training on bike, weights, core, usual pull ups.
wed-lunch time int training on bike and core. pm bouldering at uni wall. ok session
thurs- very early start as took mum to hospital for op. malham, aboiut average on mescalito. road bike ride... lots of climbing packed into 1.5. hour ride. back to hospital to pick mum up.
fri- int training on turbo in garage.. next door neighbour kept rabbiting on to me so oculdn't push as hard as i wanted.chilled with my mum. pm malham.. usual warm up, back on mescalito... energy levels felt wiped out.. tried leading first 10 m of it... some of it worked some of it didn't. worked moves on middle section but no progress. felt down. (not sleeping very well because of worry about mum's health at the moment)
sat- day with mum... session at gym.. int training on bike, weights, pull ups, core
sunday- malham.. dogged first 10m of mescalito.. progress!! felt stronger.. plan is to bolt to bolt it through to the 7th or 8th bolt.. there will be lots of falling for sure. I haven't looked at upper section properly yet so not bothering until i get the first two thirds sorted on lead. bck at malham later today once i've taken my mum home
pork pie girl - on 06 May 2013
In reply to NorthernClamberer: ace to see you feeling brill about your climbing
Banned User 77 - on 06 May 2013
In reply to biscuit:

m: 10 steady pace
t: am: 7 miles easy. pm: 8 miles with 9 K at 6:30 pace and 3 k at 5:45 pace.
w: 13 at 6:30 min mile pace on forest trails
t: lunch: easy 3 miles. pm: 8 with 6 at 6:30 min mile pace
f: 7 mile steady run
s: am: binz half marathon.. not a great run, just felt awful.. came 6th in 1:19..http://eryridiaspora.blogspot.de/
s: steady 12 mile recovery run
Luke Owens - on 06 May 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Cheers biscuit! I did indeed get on Redpoint, 5 times!

Top effort EagleRiver! Beast!

STG - F7b+, Font 7A+
MTG - F7c and Font 7B
LTG - F8a and Font 7B+

Monday - Feet on Fingerboarding moving hangs
4 x (1:30 minute on 2 mins rest x 3 - Rest 7 minutes)
Felt a lot easier this time!

Tuesday - Trevor Rocks - Took the Girlfriend out climbing. Lead F4, F4+, 2 x F6a+ and a 3 star F6c "Traction Trauma" that I've been meaning to do for awhile. Good chilled session with awesome weather!

Wednesday - Rest

Thursday - Dinbren (I love this crag too much!)
Did the F6b warm up that I used to get pumped on and It barely got me warmed up at all, not even slightly pumped! Great to see progress since last year on easy stuff.

Got back on Walking With Barrance (F7b) put the clips in and started the redpoints the first 3 were in the sun:

1RP - Fell off the technical crux about 9 moves in.
2RP - Fell off the big flake before the final throw as I couldn't get the last draw clipped - School boy error, needed a longer draw in it.
3RP - Fell off the technical crux about 9 moves in again.
4RP - Flew up it made and the final throw, latched it but pumped out bringing my feet up as my fingers uncurled/arm melted.
5RP - Did the same as my 4th RP.

Had an awesome session trying the route with two mates. Got the psyche flowing!

Great to feel so close to it even on the last go of the session. It'll go for sure. Getting back on it this week. Have my sights on some F7b+'s. Psyched!

Friday - Rest

Saturday - Drove down to the Cromlech Boulders as we had the little one with us. Couldn't get parked...Annoying. Carried on going and ended up on the Orme.

Had a few hours in the Cave. Fell off the last move on The Pillar Start (7A) and fell off the 6B+ finish of Right Wall Traverse (7A)

Such a different style of climbing than i'm used to. Hard on the shoulders!

Jealous of everyone down on LPT!

Did a feet on fingerboard session when I got home, cut the rest time by a minute:

4 x (1:30 minute on 2 mins rest x 3 - Rest 6 minutes)

Sunday - Rest
biscuit - on 06 May 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

I didn't even know there was a biking forum on here, cheers.

I just wanted to know whether i was doing it right. It sounds like i am and i just need to adapt to the pain. It's very intense but not in a cardio way.

I can suffer with climbing training and running but cycling just hurts in a different way and i don't like it.

I've never liked cycling, so psychologically it's hard, but it's only for a month then i can sell the damn thing

My kids keep talking to me when i am on it and it blows your concentration doesn't it so i appreciate what you're saying about your neighbour.

Hope your Mum recovers well.
NorthernClamberer - on 06 May 2013
In reply to pork pie girl: Hi PPG, sorry to hear about your mum, hope her recovery is swift.

I know it's small steps and not very impressive but I am still so pleased about yesterday. Even the 'I think I might imminently get washed off this ledge to my death in the white swirling froth, rope hauling, almost crying incident' hasn't put a damper on it! Was pleased the the technical aspects all passed inspection by TOWKWHD too.

heelhookofglory - on 06 May 2013
In reply to biscuit:

> Should i drop the resistance and spin faster or plough on and adapt to the pain ?

In a nut shell, yes. But what are you trying to achieve? Intervals will burn the legs if you have the resistance high and this is fine if you are in the build phase, but if you are in your base phase you should really be in the lower zones and keeping your HR around 140 (depending on your max threshold) to allow you to get a good level of fitness to then build upon in the later weeks.

Can you give me a bit more info about what your goals are on the bike and I'll try to give you some feedback?
heelhookofglory - on 06 May 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Cheers Biscuit

Yep I've had a much better week this week and somehow managed 5 consecutive days Churnet bouldering, and still have skin left for another session today.

I really want to get out on the ropes now but I'm still looking for a regular weekend partner who is happy bumbling around on anything up to VS and have me on second all day to get my mileage in. I'm looking to head out with a club on either Tue or Wed evenings so that should help loads.

It's great to be gaining my strength back bouldering but I'm super-keen to keep working on my route confidence.

Gain ML(S) -- I'm filling up my logbook ready for training at the end of 2013, so get in touch if you want to get out!
Consolidate seconding experience (trad) including some mountain multi-pitch.
Lead 20 mountain multi-pitch of at least VS 4c by end of 2014.
Churnet 7A (a solid-at-the-grade is still elusive!).
Learn to ski.

If anyone is interested in how I beat, and still working with, my fear of heights and falling, I have written quite a lot about it on my blog. This post pretty much sums it up: http://www.getsomealtitude.com/fear-of-heights-conquered/ and this one adds to it: http://www.getsomealtitude.com/my-pledge/

This Week:
M: Pushups
T: Nothing
W: Churnet bouldering session (hard), climbed well and ticked an old project that I'd not done before
T: Churnet bouldering on various outlying blocks (medium). Skin sore. (Butcher's Block)
F: Churnet bouldering (medium). Ticked my project! On warm-up first climb of the day! Didn't achieve much afterwards due to flash pump. Skin very sore.
S: Churnet bouldering (hard). Ticked a few new projects today, some hidden beauties and it was nice to get on some balancey stuff and give the fingers a rest.
S: Churnet bouldering (easy). More of a warm down session from the last few days.
Ally Smith on 06 May 2013
In reply to Joughton: Another congratulations to Eagle River, and another agreement that Toadall isn't known to be soft. I got shut down when i tried it a few years ago.

I'd suggest GBH as a prefect 1st 8a+. Depending on your strengths, it may even feel easier than Zoolook. It certainly did for me as the steeper more positive style lent itself to my stamina lout style.

I'll write something more about my Catalonian weekend later; i'm off out on the bike whilst the weather is nice.

I'm happy to say the the weekend can be summed up in two words: Smash smash!
biscuit - on 06 May 2013
In reply to stevemarkperry:

Cheers Steve.

I totally forgot you were a biker as well.

I am doing a triathlon at the start of June. Bike phase is 21k, so not long, with 155m of ascent in it. It's in Leicestershire so not exactly hilly either. I am thinking it's more of a time trial type race - head down and keep going.

As i said in my earlier post at 160bpm it's burning legs i am suffering from not cardio. I seem to be recovering well from it though. When i stop i think i'll be wasted the next day with DOMS but i've been fine to go again so far.

I have 2 sessions i have taken off the british cycle coaches website. One is a straight 20 min session ( not counting warm up/down ) at 160bpm, working up to 35 mins over the next few weeks and the other is 15 min at 160bpm then intervals of 5min at 170bpm. I can only manage about 1.5 min of that before i stop.

I don't have long obviously and am trying to squeeze in what i can around life hence the trainer sessions.
biscuit - on 06 May 2013
In reply to biscuit:

found a link to the route:


It seems that triathletes are geekier and more gear obsessed than climbers !
Needkraken - on 06 May 2013
In reply to biscuit: also thanks for the comments about leading, I know I'll get there with time just need to keep working at it until it feels more natural
heelhookofglory - on 06 May 2013
In reply to biscuit:

No worries! Yep triathletes and cyclists tend to be super-geeky about gear and technology! Especially when it comes to measuring stats and HR.

When I've worked with coaches in the past they have always had me do a threshold test before working out my plan. It's essentially a 30-60min TT with a 10-20min warm up at the beginning (included in the time), on flat terrain where you can just keep on going. Once the warm up is completed I hit lap on my HR monitor computer and sprint for the remainder of the time. The average HR at the end (not including warm up) is my lactate threshold (LT). From this, you can then work out your training zones. It's a horrible test and nearly always results in vomiting.

For example if my LT is 179 then my zones would be as follows;

1 (active recovery): <146
2 (extensive endurance): 146-158
3 (intensive endurance): 159-165
4 (Threshold training): 166-176
5a (Threshold training): 177-180
5b (VO2max intervals): 181-186
5c (anaerobic reps): 187+

The above are taken from Joe Friel's Mountain Bike Training Bible – a great book for cyclists and I believe he has a version specifically for triathletes. The coaches I've worked with have had me working in a similar way but the zones have been a little different depending upon who your coach is.

So did this BC programme just stipulate those heart rates or have you worked them out? If you have just taken them from their programme then this could be your underlying problem. For example one man's endurance training could be another man's intervals... I.e. you could be in a phase where you should be doing easy miles but yo are actually working lactate threshold. It doesn't seem too intense if you aren't getting DOMS but maybe your recovery is just pretty good, a possibility.

Again, Joe Friel recommends the following build up;

3-8 weeks of preparing to train (cross training and general fitness)
3-4 weeks base 1 (establish endurance, force, speed skill and muscular endurance)
3-4 weeks base 2 ---"---
3-4 weeks base 3 ---"---
3-4 weeks build 1 (increasingly race-specific training (so for you, head down, bum up, pedal!))
3-4 weeks build 2 ---"---
1-2 weeks peak (tapering and consolidation of readiness (B & C priority races))
1-3 weeks race(s) (A priority race(s))

So you can see from the above that you are trying to fit a lot into the 4 weeks that you have available to you, but I'd imagine that you will only be on the bike for around 35mins(?) so if I was trying to peak in that time, I'd probably do a week or so of base (sub 140bpm) to get some long easy miles into my legs, then work up into some sprints, technique and power just before. As long as you have good generally fitness then you should be ok!

Not sure if that helps, or reduces psyche! :/
biscuit - on 06 May 2013
In reply to Needkraken:

No problem. Plenty of us have been there and plenty of us are still there so i am sure you'll find lots of support on here.

Just keep plugging away at your pace and it'll come together soon enough.
biscuit - on 06 May 2013
In reply to stevemarkperry:

Cheers Steve.

I am aware that i have left it far too late for a proper periodised build up.Psyche was already down but now i have a better idea of what/why i am doing then that will help me get through it.

I avoided the vomit inducing threshold test as i couldn't do it on the TT; my legs were failing before i was hitting my cardio threshold. I can't leave the house to ride until after the 13th as i am stuck with the kids and no child care.

I have a good knowledge of what i used to be capable of and what my HR zones used to be. So i took 160 from what i know i used to be able to do running and i am nowhere near as fit as i used to be.Not very scientific but i have a decent knowledge of my body.

I can get to 160 on the bike and i am not at my anaerobic threshold but i am stopping due to the grief my legs are giving me. Pure, gurning, pain !

So i think i need to toughen my legs up. I will do 2 sessions of steady work, 150 seems to be what i could manage, and bump that up each week by 5 mins to 40 mins. I will also do one a week of intervals to toughen the legs up a bit more.

Cheers for that, it gives me a better idea of what to aim for.
NorthernClamberer - on 06 May 2013
In reply to Needkraken: Yep, keep plugging! And if I ever manage my adventures, I'll come and climb with you and it'll be great fun! ;-)

The Fox - on 06 May 2013
Nomics, PPG, Grubes et al. - ER taking a much deserved rest next weekend but I'm keen for Kilnsey. Anyone keen/got room for another?
heelhookofglory - on 06 May 2013
In reply to biscuit:

You're welcome. Sounds to me like you will do great. The best advice I was given was (and this was from a champ in his day);

"The fastest rider is the one who can consistently stay just under his redline. He will be able to ride for a long time at that level and have enough for a sprint finish whereas those who are constantly reaching over it will also be constantly dipping under it, peaking and troughing."

So if you know your redline (LT) by feeling then you are a long way towards a successful race.

I find now that getting too much into the science of training on the bike is a killer for my psyche levels. I think too much about whether I'm doing the right kind of ride, instead of just riding.

The turbo is a great tool for testing time constraints. If you can train on that and keep your psyche high then you will blitz the race. Turbo is great mental training in itself ;)
biscuit - on 06 May 2013
In reply to stevemarkperry:

Yeah science can take the fun out of stuff sometimes.

I've always had an irrational dislike of cycling i don't really know why. It keeps you fit, it can be sociable or solitary, easy or lung busting, depending on your mood, it's easy to do and you can just get home and go out on the bike so it's easily accessible.

It's still not for me long term though ;-)

48-49 mins would have put me mid pack last year so anything more than that is a bonus for me.

Thanks again.
Sankey - on 06 May 2013
In reply to biscuit: Congrats to Eagle River on the 8a!

Been a busy week, just back from 3 days at Kilnsey, despite only ticking one of the warm ups, was a decent weekend, I left with a new 7a+ project that I can do the moves on (more or less). Probably need to not go into 3 days of sport with sore arms from mid week sessions in the future.

M: Bike 16 miles 1500 feet
T: Bell Hagg - did all my normal problems and tried to a few fingery new ones
T: Burbage Valley Bouldering - circuit of problems up to V3/4
S: Kilnsey: 5 goes on a 6c (3 TR 2 lead dog) Working the warm up shamlessly, arms felt blasted from the grit still.
S: Kilnsey: Ticked the 6c after getting the drawers in, then had some goes on Direct Flight 7a+, liked the lower technical bits, but found the top steepening had a stopper move.

M: Kilnsey: Tried a 7a TR gave up, dogged a 6b+ and 6c+ (the latter is worth some more goes another day), then got back on Direct Flight, and managed to find a vague way the top section might go

STG: Start aerobic stuff for summer trip to Alps+More 7a's

MTG: 7a+ Appetite

LTG: 7b I guess, why not!
leon on 06 May 2013
In reply to Eagle River:
Well done on bagging the magic grade. So early in 2013 as well, you need to set yourself harder targets ;)
leon on 06 May 2013
In reply to biscuit:
STG: Stick to the training plan.
MTG: 2*E2s, 1*6c(done) & 2*7a by end of May.
LTG(2013): 7a+*1, 7a*4. 34e points.
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Falls: 0(94)
Fat %: Err
Focus: LE(3/3)
Key weaknesses: Spotting sequences. Repertoire of moves. FoF, using core to reduce strain on fingers (maybe), not search for the best sequence when redpointing.

Mon: Core.
Tue: Steep wall lock-offs. 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V3). Arc(30 mins).
Wed: Core. Che Dale
Thu: Push-ups(112), Pull-ups(58), Back(weights).
Fri: Arc(30 mins). Repeaters.
Sat: Holiday.
Sun: Holiday.

Bit of a light week due to family holiday & a bit of a hang-over on Monday. Family holidays always take me some time to get over so probably no training for a day or two this week!

Felt good/strong both in terms of training & climbing this week. Got the 6c lead @ Che Dale on Tuesday (first one, went straight from 6b+ to 7a last year) & managed to TR Bream in Black cleanly as the last route of the day. I realized what I thought was the crux on BiB isn't, I just wansn't getting an undercut right. I need to learn to explore the moves a bit more when I'm redpointing instead of trying to get to the top as quickly as possible.

My wife is going to give up work. This is good for her & good for me, because it means I'll have more holiday (an extra 10 days!!!!) that I can use to go climbing so if people are looking for mid week partners give me shout.

Likely to be a low volume week next week due to work & a plan to get outside 3 times:
- Bouldering/routes -3 sessions.
- ARC -1 set.
- Steep wall lock-offs.
- Repeaters
Exile - on 06 May 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Awesome effort Eagle River - very inspiring!

Biscuit - haven't got on it this week as weather ' partners didn't line up. however, managed to do my first bouldering V7 so a great week!

Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3,
Winter VI 6

Goals for this Spring:
Boulder V7 - tick
RP - 7a+ / 7b
HP - E6

Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.

Concentrating on 7a+ at moment.

Weeks training:

M: Evening. 30min hill reps. Felt good.
T: Morning. 1hr 20 PE traverses at wall - ok
W: Morning. 1hr fell run. evening. 2hrs bouldering at Badger Rock, managed bottom arκte with the it down start, (V7 in two guide books, V5 in one - I'm taking the V7!!!) It felt harder than anything I've ever climbed before, and even if it isn't V7 it's the problem I had in mind when I set the target so I'm happy to get it.
T: Morning. 40min road run to work. Evening. 40min road run home from work. Felt tired.
F: Evening. 40min interval traversing on 6b+ traverse outside for recovery training. Easy session as was hoping to get on Ivy League Sat morning.
S: Morning. Rain, so no Ivy League. 1hr 30min PE traverses & core at wall. Felt hard to start but ended up getting a new traverse I've been working on.
S: Rest

Chuffed with the boulder problem - first real proof positive that the effort I've put into training over the winter has benefited me. Want to get back on Ivy League now.
Kevster - on 06 May 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Thanks Andy,

I was doing good this week, but psyche has been washed away for this evening - ferry cancelled and weather forecast is poor, looks like the old man of hoy will have to wait for a third effort - this was this coming weeks plan. I had even bought a new pair of shoes for it! Matching handbag next...

The week just gone (I'll include Monday/today as I tend to write weekend to weekend. Keeping the trad ticking over, GWR was really a tustle - any others been on it? I failed the OS, but went 2nd go. E2 5b - every move is 5b!

Mon: FB session - hard work! Changed the routine. Aches are good.
Tues: Indoors routes, did 6 sets of 3 routes, on lead to try for stamina, 6a-6c. I think it needs some refining as I could have done more.
Weds: Jog (finally)
Thur rest
Fri drive to peak
Sat, sun & Monday. Routes led, amongst other commitments and seconding a few routes too etc,
Malham -E2 Wombat - great fun & good pro.
Millstone: HVS Plexity, E1 Dexterity, E1 2nd pitch Emb' 3, E2 Great north road (both pitches - some say the top pitch is E2/3 on its own)

A good week in all, achieved the sessions I hoped, would have liked to get more routes in over the bank hol, but sometimes it just doesn't come quickly.

Cheers to Sean and Ali too, was good to climb and felt well looked after without having to worry about new belayer proficiency etc. Again another time I hope?

This week:
Meant to be Scotland, I think that is unlikely. So
1 day outside or 1 indoors, 1 FB, 1 jog and maybe build a campus board. Then look to plan the next trip to Hoy.

Cheers, Kev.
JayK - on 06 May 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Oh dear. I got my pants well and truly pulled down by Yorkshire Lime. Poor tactics and generally being shit meant that I didn't make any progress on my trip from 2 years ago...

M - Core training. Sit-ups, plank and dynamic core movements. (taking advice from ally for mixing this up a bit)
T - Session down the wall. Managed a long PE problem which I'd been struggling on. Starting to feel much fitter. Lapped the circuit board 8 times with 10 push-up and 10 pull up rests.
W - Core workout as above.
T- Rest
F- indoor football. 30mins?
S- Malham. Got there late. It was sooo busy. Warmed up on Not Another Dead End Job. Then put draws in on Raindogs (tried to remember all the moves) Had another go dogging up it. Then top-roped it to get the draws out. It got really cold really quick and ended up hurting my left ring finger getting the draws out. Hope there's no damage there. Although the moves felt a lot easier - I didn't give it a good RP burn so no idea where I'm at with this route.
S- Kilnsey. Oh dear. Warmed up on Alternative Option - Wise? Probably not. Almost pulled off a big jug so sat on the rope at the top crux. Pulled the rope and fired it off. Felt like a hard warm up for 7a (later realised it wasn't) But it had decent juggy holds so wasn't bad. Re-established myself with the moves on Comedy. Had one RP attempt before being COMPLETELY powerless. Couldn't even do the start moves. This was so demoralising.
M- Barely did anything today as partner was sick so we drove home early.

Don't worry though. I'm still psyched for sport. Was starting to let my mid term tiredness show though with my frustration with routes.

If my half-term monaco trip falls through does anyone fancy spending a week in the UK somewhere sporty? 25th May - 2nd June.
JayK - on 06 May 2013
In reply to biscuit:

So psyched for ER!! Get in.
NorthernClamberer - on 06 May 2013
In reply to Kevster: What boat is cancelled? I live on Orkney and can maybe help with the travel plans etc from the ground as it were. I also know a guy in the club who's really keen to do the Old Man before the end of June and needs partners.... I can also direct you to the best pubs!

Ali - on 06 May 2013
In reply to Kevster: Nightmare on the weather Hoping to head to Wye Valley next weekend with H if you're looking for alternative plans.

Anyway, also updating for today:

Cold felt a bit better - hopefully on the way out! Millstone - seconded Perplexity (HVS), and two E1s I can't remembers the names of, but Sean will probably update. Led Embankment 3 and 4 which was really pleased with, especially as I've wanted to do 4 for years... First E points of the year, and feeling a bit more positive about being able to achieve trad goal of E2 - now if only I can find one which I can lace with gear...

Cheers to Kev and Sean for supportive belaying/encouragement/general abuse!
mattrm - on 06 May 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Thanks Biscuit

STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, UTMB/Lakes 100, stay injury free & maintain 11st

Weight - 12st (2lbs gain)

M - ITB stretches
T - Core + stretches
W - Rest
T - Fell Run, 14k, 950m asc, 2h 11m
F - Keswick (shopping and eating!)
S - Skiddaw (14k, 6h, 1000m)
S - Rannerdale Knots, 30 mins bouldering @ Honister pass, stretches, core

Good week all in. Ultra next Saturday. Feeling quietly confident about it. Better trained than I was last year, not that it was hard to train better and it's not much better. Hopefully the weather will be good. Great run on Thursday, up Grisedale pike and back down the valley. Nice wander round Keswick on Friday and bought one of these new Totem Cams. Then a good day up Skiddaw and all the peaks (Carl Side, Long Side, Ullock Pike, Skiddaw, Little Man and Lonscale Fell). Quiet day on Sunday. Got a bit of bouldering in tho. Just messing around at Honister pass. Nice place, but rather windy.
mattrm - on 06 May 2013
In reply to NorthernClamberer:
> (In reply to Kevster) What boat is cancelled? I live on Orkney

I'm heading up to Orkney with the family in September. Any good bouldering?

NorthernClamberer - on 06 May 2013
In reply to mattrm: No. Sorry. There's a tiny bit where you can boulder at the bolted quarry, otherwise just (good) trad on sea cliffs and 13 sport routes from 4+ to 7a+ ish. If the weather is rubbish though, there is a new wall and bouldering cave in the sports centre.
Curious Yellow - on 06 May 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Thanks biscuit...

Congratulations ER, well deserved

Mon - Rest.
Tues - Rest.
Wedns - Biscuit Factory. Feeble session - sorry for my complaining and lack of enthusiasm Ali! Tried some good problems though.
Thurs - Castle. Decent boulder.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Blacknor Far South. 6 pitches O/S up to 6b+.
Sun - Blacknor Far South. 5 pitches up to 6c and fell off a 6c+.
Mon - Cuttings. Back on Infernal Din. Two terrible working goes, unable to repeat any of the hard moves. Then had a first RP attempt mostly just because I'd said I would and fell off the top crux, pulled back on and did the rest clean

Daniel Heath - on 06 May 2013
In reply to biscuit:
> UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.
> For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
> http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
> A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
> Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
> Link to last week's (319) thread:
> http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=547799

> Daniel heath – Did you hit 65kg ?


Thanks for asking, that helps keep me honest.
I have to report failure. Had some friends round for food and triggered a binge. Also ate too much on my weekend in Pembroke.

What's funny is I've done some of my best climbing outdoors. But clearly a few kilos doesn't make a difference on sketchy slabs. I know it's important for my competition so I'll be back on it starting now.

Anyway here is my week:

M-Boxing. Wasn't really feeling it, losing psyche I think. Short beastmaker sesh.
T-Hill sprints I think...?
W-Good circuit sesh.
F-M Pembroke!

Onsighted a couple of E5s, flashed one E5. Flashed Daddy Cool E8 on TR.

Soloed a few E1s.

Amazing weekend. God scared quite a bit but also felt able to abandon and venture into unknown territory above gear. The E4/5 in Hunstman's leap was a really exciting piece of climbing.

Anyway the weeks' goals:

Get to 65.5kg
Train circuits

Thanks Biscuit for your time
biscuit - on 06 May 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

You and me both Jimmy. It's a law unto itself is Yorkshire lime.

Tell nomics as she did Alternative Extra Option and is a bit gutted it only gets "7a".
biscuit - on 06 May 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Flashed Daddy Cool E8 on TR.

Forget everything else in your post - wow !

Different world on lead v top rope but that's got to feel good.
Daniel Heath - on 06 May 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

Wow man great piece of news!

Enjoy your non climbing trip!
Si dH - on 07 May 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Bon effort. E4/5 in Huntsmans is awesome - there is so much out there once youre at that level.
Si dH - on 07 May 2013
In reply to Ali:
Nice one Ali! Not soft E1s at all either. Youll crush E2 easily this year
Si dH - on 07 May 2013
In reply to biscuit:
My week:

M: core exercises
T: short session at alter rock, 50% bouldering and 50% ancap. Felt strong.
W: fingerboard session
T: alter rock, bouldering. Did most of the new set of problems, felt pretty good, but there were some hard ones to go.back to.
F,S,S,M,T: holiday in Crete. Currently chilling on terrace with breakfast. Just been on the beach, little bit of culture, and eating far too much! Fly home this evening.

Big up to all the achivements this week, espec eagle river and dan's understated crushing.

mrchewy - on 07 May 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Eagle River - awesome work! You must be flying.

Daniel - Pembroke! What a place! My first visit this weekend and Huntsman's looked badass. Led my first VS too, Bomb Bay at St Govan's Head, seconded The Arrow, Deranged but whimped out of trying The Butcher. Everything seemed so pumpy and long and I got my arse whipped to be honest, by Monday I was a wreck both mentally and physically.
Sankey - on 07 May 2013
In reply to mrchewy: bomb bay is a tough vs I think, good effort. Didn't experience the soft Pembroke grades rumours when I went last year, agree many routes are physical. Would like to go back there a bit fitter myself.
pork pie girl - on 07 May 2013
In reply to biscuit: it should feel intense in a cardio type of way as well as in the legs..can you measure your cadence on your turbo trainer? try and work 200 for the 5 min intervals then try 240-250 for the 20 min block... that will get your heart rate booming... i find the faster i push through harder gears i seem to settle .. the heart rate goes up (which is what i want) .. but if i grind too slowly through the harder gears then i find it's more painful and time just drags... so still try to get a good pace going so the cardio vascular fitness is benefitting too. i think music is really important whilst training too... i listen to stuff that makes me giddy... my pace increases ..i actually think it adds about an extra 15% ish to my work rate.

also if youy can get out on quick hill blasts wuthout dropping the gears too much at all.. that will increase your power as well as making your heart beat like a f*cked clock

maybe wait til the kids have gone to bed? ... you may also get away with breaking other bits of the house again if the need arises again :oD

cheers re my mum... we'll know more about where she's at in about another week.. she has cancer.. but we don't know exactly what we're fighting yet.. it was exactly this time last year we found out my dad had terminal cancer.. talk about alot of bad luck.. thank god i have climbing, biking and an awesome girlfriend... really kept me strong last year

Nomics4sale - on 07 May 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

Briliant effort ER! Chuffed for you

Northernclamberer: awesome effort with the trad lead, that's a big milestone passed with flying colours. More to come no doubt.

STG (Summer 2013): 7b at Malham or Kilnsey, trad E1s and look at E2.
MTG (Autumn 2013): Something good in Spain, maybe 7a flash or 7b RP.
LTG (2014): lots of E2s, maybe look at E3 and RP 7b+.

Mon: nowt
Tues: 6 mile run on Pendle with the Bowland runners
Wed: Anglezarke, onsight led Many Happy Returns (HVS 5a) and First Finale (E1 5b), seconded Terra Cotta (HVS 5a).
Thurs: Kilnsey. Got on WYSYWIG, 7b. Awesome route. Had an RP go but no joy.
Fri: 11.2 mile trail run up Snowdon from Llanberis. 1,052m ascent.
Sat: Gogarth, alt lead Scavenger (HVS 5a) then onsighted The Strand E2 5b.
Sun: Alt lead onsight Mestizo E1 5b. Awesome route.

I was overjoyed at leading The Strand, my FIRST E2! Woop woop!. I looked at it last time I was there and thought it looked intimidating but it's really well protected so a good first E2 (Ali??). Brilliant route and I'm dead chuffed!
Nomics4sale - on 07 May 2013
In reply to The Fox:

As per my text I'm keen for Sunday.
Ally Smith on 07 May 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

Sorry to hear that, but don't let your previous experience of cancer cloud any expectations of your mum's prognosis.

My partner died from pancreatic cancer 2.5 years ago, just 5 months after diagnosis, but i also know another supposedly "terminal" cancer sufferer who, nearly 4 years on is fighting fit. Have a look through the Singletrack forums for "Bullheart".
pork pie girl - on 07 May 2013
In reply to ally smith: thank you .. x
Nomics4sale - on 07 May 2013
In reply to Sankey:

I had a few TR goes on Direct Flight and was thinking about RPing it. I was put off by the crux move up high to get the crimp/pocket then the next move to get the jug. Is that the stopper move you mentioned? Hard moves for 7a+! You know the move to get from the undercut with your left hand to the crimp up high with your right? You know that crimp is actually a big pocket if you reach further back? Helps a bit to do the swing for the jug... Not sure if that helps at all.. Everyone says it's not a very good route and there are better routes to have a go at so I decided to do Alternative Optional Extra instead.
pork pie girl - on 07 May 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

brilliant results over the weekend.. you're just ticking your objectives so easily. yipeeeeeee
Daniel Heath - on 07 May 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

It is such a cool place! Well done leading your first VS, that's awesome.

I feel pretty wrecked too. I've had way too much adrenaline for one weekend!
Nomics4sale - on 07 May 2013
In reply to Ali:
> feeling a bit more positive about being able to achieve trad goal of E2 - now if only I can find one which I can lace with gear...

The Strand!
AJM - on 07 May 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Only got a minute but I saw a first E2, a first 8a, an E8 clean on toprope, and a first VS on my quick skim plus a load of other cool looking stuff too.

Bon effort FC

Van going well. Real climbing starts tomorrow tho did my most sketchy feeling lead of the year yesterday - a very thin not very travelled slabby rippled wall climb with totally unobvious holds and tricky moves with bolts at your feet. Such sore feet! Felt like an E3 experience

Needless to say, it was on a relatively obscure crag, and graded 6b

Happy days ;)
Nomics4sale - on 07 May 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

Ta, you too with your rapid progress on Mescalito. Onwards.....
Sankey - on 07 May 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: Cheers for that. You are right, the move I was struggling with particulary was the one you describe, eventually I saw the narrow slot pocket hold slightly higher than the crimp, and it certainly makes a big difference as you can then swing to the jug more easily. This is defintely a hard move for me and is a worry for the redpoint! I quite like the technical stuff up to that point, but it is very sustained, and two (non crucial) holds got pulled off hitting belayers over the weekend. Not too many options at Kilnsey around 7a though. Alternative Optional Extra is the steep route to the right of Direct Flight? There seemed to be some debate about the grade and an odd second bolt placement which put me off, but may have a go next time. Good luck on it yourself.
Luke Owens - on 07 May 2013
In reply to Exile:

Awesome effort on the 7A+ buddy!

Dan: Nice one on the Pembroke trip, good ticks!
JayK - on 07 May 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Luke Fancy Dinbren either Sat or Sun depending on weather?

Nomics - Alternative Extra Option is hard 7a+ /soft 7b IMO. But then again, I was rubbish on the weekend so everything felt hard.
pork pie girl - on 07 May 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: and upwards... like a snail with a wooden leg.. hardly rapid.. it's a right scrap.

Nomics4sale - on 07 May 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Glad you said that! I wasn't sure if it was just me or that everything there is hard anyway. I know how feel about being rubbish there. Now you've had your first visit it will feel easier next time I'm sure.
Nomics4sale - on 07 May 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

ha ha yeah but any progress is progress and 7c+ is well hard (nearly 8a!). Just imagine how you're gonna feel when you get the tick! Worth it in the end...
Exile - on 07 May 2013
In reply to Luke Owens:

Thanks for the support, but I haven't got it yet! (Managed my first v7 though.)

Lakes trad tonight as the weather seems to be playing ball for a short while and then back on Ivy League on the weekend hopefully.

Nomics - what a great week, always fancied The Strand - Cracked Actor next?
Nomics4sale - on 07 May 2013
In reply to Exile:

The Strand is brilliant! You should have a go if you get the chnace. Yeah Cracked Actor is on the list.

Well done you with the V7. That's really hard! You must be chuffed. What's Ivy League? Are you going to do routes later in Summer or stick to bouldering?
pork pie girl - on 07 May 2013
In reply to biscuit: oh.. the highlight of the week was watching jordan buys RPing rainshadow... so inspiring... made me bloody cry!! (girl) he went crazy when he clipped the chains... brilliant to see someone so chuffed about their achievements.. how can this not make us all keep pushing?
Needkraken - on 07 May 2013
In reply to biscuit and Northern Clamberer: I managed 2 leads yesterday and enjoyed them both :O I also managed to stop myself swearing loudly when I got a little scared remembering there were a load of families below me!

Also, Mary I'm in Scotland at the beginning of July but don't think I'm anywhere near you =( will PM you and see!
Exile - on 07 May 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Ivy League is a 7a+ at Scout Scar, which is pretty much on my doorstep, so is the 7a+ of choice to push the grade.

Planning on routes - I'm not really a boulderer. I'm not 100% convinced it is V7, (as I said above V7 in two guide books, V5 in one,) as I've only knowingly done V4 outside before this winter. Having said that I've put in lots more training through the winter and it is definately, whatever the grade, the hardest thing I've climbed on rock.
Luke Owens - on 07 May 2013
In reply to Exile:

Sorry I was talking in Font grades, V7/7A+.

In terms of routes, you should get a F7a+ easy, you're strong enough!

Jimmy: Hitting Dinbren on Friday evening, 3 of us going so far. Keen? Not sure if your able to make an evening session?

I'm away all weekend in Snowdonia, but another weekend would be fine!
Exile - on 07 May 2013
In reply to Luke Owens:

See, that's how inexperienced a boulderer I am! I can do all the moves on Ivy League - it's been spottng the easiest sequence / best footholds I've found difficult and I put that down to not climbing on rock as much so far this year as I was still winter climbing less than a month ago.

Thanks for the encouragement.
Ally Smith on 07 May 2013
In reply to biscuit:

LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham & new routes on the Diamond

MTG (Spring 2013) - Build a pyramid of 8a/8a+'s and top it with an 8b or two, namely;
Melan-copout, Bad melans, Melanbeach, Para-trooper & Battle (original method) at LPT and one or two of:
Melanchollie at LPT
Insomnia at Dinbren
SUP ext at Pigeons
Stolen at Kilnsey

STG - minor update
- Finger re-hab; getting there
- Shoulder/elbow physio; tackling the cause of my elbow pains, not the symptoms
- Aero-power; continue to get pumped 2-3 times a week
- Continue with core and flexibility work
- Lose some weight; aim for <75kg (11st 10lb) currently 76.3kg and and 6.8%

The week just gone:

M - Rest. Rode to work and back (16 miles ish). DOMS from cave and stretching.
T - Was supposed to be an indoor training session, but got tempted by Dinbren despite the tweaked finger. Climbed like a lemon, super static on everything, but managed a 7c so can't complain too much.
W - Got beasted by the sports masseur; ouch!
T - Rest. Rode to work and back (16 miles ish).
F - Travel, then Siurana. Managed to get over the dodgy super-static style and OS 4 routes up to 7b+ (Mandragora - on which the crimp got unleashed and the finger didn't complain - winner!)
S - Santa Linya - wet cave John's project soaking, so knew we'd only have a short visit. I got Trio Ternura done 2nd RP despite the wet holds. 10mins on route; 7 of which were spent resting in kneebars! Then cleaned up a techy 7c+ i failed on last time and Opium 2nd go with massivley sketchy elbow out and slapping at the top.
S - Disblia - 6a+&6c warm-ups and feeling very sore/weak from previous days. Very tired dog up a steep 8a. Did the moves but no where near linking. Had some beer and crisps and decided to head back to Futbolin for some easy warm downs. Got a massive 2nd wind and did 2x7b,7a,6c+,6b+ OS!
M - Travel home and sub hour lap of Red and Llandegla which would indicate i've still kept some biking fitness

Overall, a super weekend.
6a+ OS
6b Beta
6b+ OS (Red Dusk - more like 5+/6a - John TR'd in his trainers)
6c OS
6c+ OS
7a x2 OS
7a+ Beta
7b x2 OS
7b+ OS
7c RP 2nd go
7c+ RP 2nd go this time, but about 8th RP overall - La Sportiva heel made all the difference
8a - RP

I had been planning to rest most of this week, but i can't being doing that with this weather..
Luke Owens - on 07 May 2013
In reply to ally smith:

Sounds like a great trip Ally nice one, top effort! That's a lot of ticks for a weekend!

Good effort on Extreme Ways! I e-mailed you back about the project to the left.

Few of us are heading up there on Friday if you're keen?
useful on 07 May 2013
In reply to biscuit:
Pembroke worked its magic! :D Full update tonight...
mrchewy - on 07 May 2013
In reply to Sankey: Cheers - a couple of people have said it's a bit run out and highish in the grade but I breezed it to be honest. Had a go at Flanker VS 4c on Monday, 40m and first climb of the day but the crux crack area halfway up had me whupped, I made a belay and brought Dale up to finish it. I was so mentally drained after four days, I couldn't see the moves. I also need to get lighter and stronger.

Pembroke was humbling. There's so many good climbers out there doing stuff. The pub was packed with names and I had a chat in the queue for the loo with Caff but it was the sheer volume of people breezing E3/4/5 etc that took my breath away. Amazing.

PPG - sorry to hear about your mum. Don't know what to say but tell her to keep fighting hard, it often helps.
Ian Bell - on 07 May 2013
Hi all

Quite week this week.

S - 1 hr pilates - first time I've tried it and enjoyed it. 12 routes on the autobelay up to 6a, ankle painful.
M - 1 hr pilates. 16 routes on the auto belay up to 6a+. Ankle a bit better.

Ankle improving but still hobbling. Hopefully another week or so and will be OK. Very frustrating to not get outdoors on a lovely bank holiday but the right decision, its still not right.

Going to take some time out of fit club for a bit. It fulfilled the original goal when I joined a year or so ago and get me psyched to try harder. Think I will have a few months off, get rid of the niggling injuries, get strong again and hopefully return with tales of crushing!

Happy summer everyone.
pork pie girl - on 07 May 2013
In reply to ally smith: flipping eck.. what a trip... like the beer and crisps break!!!

very very impressive ticks there, well done
Ali - on 07 May 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: Ooo, thanks for the recommendation! I'll have to look at it - still never been to Gogarth but a crag on the list for this year...
Ali - on 07 May 2013
In reply to Ali: And nice work on the onsight too
JayK - on 07 May 2013
In reply to ally smith:

Fancy Dinbren on the weekend Ally?
Ali - on 07 May 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:
> (In reply to biscuit) oh.. the highlight of the week was watching jordan buys RPing rainshadow... so inspiring... made me bloody cry!! (girl) he went crazy when he clipped the chains... brilliant to see someone so chuffed about their achievements.. how can this not make us all keep pushing?

Oh fab! Jordan is possibly one of the most consistently psyched climbers I've ever met - so inspiring!
NorthernClamberer - on 07 May 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: Cheers Nomics! I was so happy! Still am! Was just an awesome day with people who mean a lot to me.

Well done for crushing the E2!! WHOOOOOP WHOOOOOP WHOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!
NorthernClamberer - on 07 May 2013
In reply to Needkraken: Nothing is very near me cos I live 20 miles north of the north coast of Scotland. ;-) But I have wheels and love adventures so I'm game for something. Let me know.
pork pie girl - on 07 May 2013
In reply to biscuit: MALHAM THIS THURSDAY?? .. anyone free for a climb?.. rain due late afternoon with a bit of a SW breeze so would like to get out earlish.

Joughton on 07 May 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath: Good effort in Pembroke, the E5 in the leap wasn't Witch Hunt was it? I certainly thought that grade seemed fair...

If that wasn't it then it should've been, you'd smash it! Also Minotaur looks very good, and Get Some In feels about 7a/+ with bomber gear so you should get on that too next time you're there... so many routes! What did you get scared on?
Daniel Heath - on 07 May 2013
In reply to Joughton:

No, it was Specimen Hunter, wandering across Magazine People on the East Wall.

To be honest I felt scared a lot!
I blasted through the mid section of Beyond the Beyond so far I ended up at a precarious rest at the top of the crag and took 10 minutes before I had fiddled in any decent wires.

I got scared on a short E5 overgripping above a tensioned skyhook and half a walnut, sticking a high foot by the skin of my teeth.

I was pretty scared on that E5 at Huntsman's, but it was more exhilaration climbing past a peg into impossible-looking territory, because I knew that if the peg failed I still wouldn't deck. Man I've had so much adrenaline, and I'm even more psyched to go back! Ghost train looks like one to do...
Daniel Heath - on 07 May 2013
In reply to ally smith:

Insane week there, effort!
grubes - on 08 May 2013
In reply to biscuit:
Still no sign of jamming dodger so anyone able to do the stats on sunday. I can if needed to.

And a few gaps need filling in too:
12/5 : Jamming Dodger ??
19/5 : Ali
26/5 : grubes
2/6 : grubes
9/6 :
16/6 : Grubes
23/6 :
30/6 : Grubes
leon on 08 May 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:
> (In reply to Eagle River)
> I was overjoyed at leading The Strand, my FIRST E2! Woop woop!. I looked at it last time I was there and thought it looked intimidating but it's really well protected so a good first E2 (Ali??). Brilliant route and I'm dead chuffed!

Well done, its such an amazing line & situation isn't it? & very intimidating to look at. There are loads of e2s you'll be able to do if you didn't mind getting on that.
Eagle River - on 08 May 2013
In reply to grubes:

I'm away for the next two weekends but put me down for the two free weekends in June.
Ian Bell - on 08 May 2013
Only just properly reading the thread, big congrats on the 8a.
Twigger on 08 May 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Pretty busy work week, this one has started as the previous left off!

M - Indoor routes RCC, 6c os, 6c+ rp from a few weeks ago 1st go, 6c+ worked will go next time
T - 12K run in 1hr dead
W - Bridge traverse, didnt bother warming up, just did it there and back slowly then did a few laps, feeling strong
T - 28 mile road ride in 1hr30, lovely ride with no wind, sun and really pushed it.
F - drive to Lakes, raining
S - Soloed a Diff/grade 3 scramble then did a big walk back, raining
S - RAINING, canoed derwent water and went to shepherds in the eve, repeated little cham, great climb
M - Castle rock, no rain! couple of VS's that felt hard, sleep deprivation didn't help from staying with the Farting Retired Climbing(?) Club snorers.

It was a nice hut, and the main snorer was a friendly chap, but I have never heard such noise come from someone asleep.

Slightly more converted to Lakeland climbing, but the weather is always hit and miss, might try one more trip in the summer but if it rains again I'm never going back!
useful on 08 May 2013
In reply to DoctorU: Ok, a night later than promised, but I fell asleep (all that Pembrokeshire fresh air!).
Mon 29/1 went for a run around Hawarden Country Park, too much on my toes, so aching calf muscles all week!
Tues 30/1 Penmaenbach Quarry Last but one wall. Confidence still all over the place: had to bail on the lead on A55 Hole Arete (5) with a list of excuses as long as my arm! Top roped it fine, though. Similarly for Jefferson Slab (6a, which I thought was 5+), so TR'ed that too. Then I led Y Clip Aur (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=231096) without any fuss at all. Suddenly, CONFIDENCE RESTORED! Weird, huh?
Nothing until the weekend (driving, etc).
Sat 4/5: Approaching the top of Saddle Head was so intimidating, what with the wind and crashing waves! But I had a strategy: start easy, and build up. Once we'd abb'ed down to the platform, things settled down, including my nerves! I led Fel Gwyr (Diff), Buff (VDiff), Flake-Quake (a lovely S) and Forgotten Corner (HVD), all without incident and even with confidence. Then seconded my partner Craig on his first ever trad lead on Buff (VDiff).
We went to look at Stennis Head too, but were a bit intimidated by North Corner, so decided to leave that.
Sun 4/5: Return to Saddle Head, this time warming up on Flake Quake (S) taking a more direct and challenging route. Seconded Craig on Small Beginnings (Diff). then ticked off Urchin (S 4a), Wetstone (S 4b) and Nameless Wall (HS 4b).
Mon 5/5: Today's aim was to at least complete a tech grade 4c, maybe 5a. So the group headed to Bullslaughter Bay (Bulls laughter? or Bull Slaughter?). I led E Six, Six B - yay! - which was HS 4c
Then we had time for one more, I was eyeing up The Zip (HVS 5a) but Craig wanted one more lead too. He took Ordinary Route (VDiff) instead, so I had fun setting up a hanging belay at the bottom to avoid getting wet feet on the incoming tide! Practicing rope organization: it's harder than it looks!

So in summary: Ended the week on a high, with my confidence moving over rock restored. An amazing weekend climbing amazing gear-hungry rock, and a return visit possibly planned for later in the summer. I'm now looking to power on over the next 3 months outdoors, on both trad and sport; the latter I've already achieved a little this week, but that's for Sunday... ;)
maria85 - on 08 May 2013
In reply to biscuit:
Oh man, 3 weeks to report. After getting back from Switzerland I'd thought about not coming back to FC but given the amount of chocolate I've eaten and the lack of training I've done since, I probably should...

Week 318:
Bike commutes every day M-F
M: Long evening mtb, discovered some lovely new trails, 2hrs or so.
T: Lunchtime run, 5.8km, 31mins.
Baildon Bank: Led Paddy's Route, VS 4b (lovely), seconded a severe.
W-F: I'm sure I did something but I don't remember what and didn't write it down.
S: Travelling. Touring plans put on hold due to weather, went to Chamonix instead.
S: Downhill skiing at Le Tour, mainly piste, off piste was horrendous sticky slush.

Week 319:
M: More travelling, touring ON!
T-S: Bernese Alps tour. Great, 2 tough days, 2 fab days and 1 short one. I've written a post on my work's blog about it if anyone's interested: http://www.facewest.co.uk/facewestblog/2013/05/08/ski-touring-the-western-bernese-alps/
S: Travelling.

Week 320:
Bike commutes every day.
M: Nothing else. Shattered.
T: Core session (feeling seriously weak) and lunchtime run (6km, 30mins)
W: Ogden Clough. Led Gollyberry (VS 4c) then seconded that again and a VDiff.
T: Ilkley. Led S Crack (VS 4c, on preplaced gear) - nice to go back to this as I remember it being hard on TR years ago, much more confident now. Also took a (stupid) fall off the start as my foot popped, below gear but still good for the head games. Led Walewska (VS 4c), 2nd Flake Crack (HS). Pretty pumped. Ski touring doesn't help forearms.
F: Lunchtime run, 5km.
S: Shepherd's Crag. Led Derision Groove (MVS 4b) (started up Shepherd's Chimney which I think is slightly harder), brilliant. Then 2nd Donkey's Ears.
S: Rain Trail run around Thirlmere, 15.5km, 485m elevation, 2 hrs 06.
S: Castle Rock. Seconded a HS and VS, no leading.

Bit late for goals for this week. My short-term goals went to the end of April so I should go over those and set new ones, but will do that next week as this post is long enough already!

Sorry not had chance to catch up with anyone elses posts, back on track next week.
useful on 08 May 2013
In reply to maria85: Well done on the trad leads, Maria, and a quality write up of the ski tour! My skiing is no way good enough to do that, I'd end up walking it all...
mrchewy - on 09 May 2013
In reply to useful: Seems you went to Pembroke with a plan - much the opposite of me! I just went with the flow. Only just realised I seconded a tech 5c too, it's no wonder it did me mischief. Still, got my VS lead. Onwards and upwards eh?
useful on 10 May 2013
In reply to mrchewy: Definitely preferrable, as opposed to outwards and downwards...!

It wasn't much of a strategy, just really get back on my feet again. And it worked, which it what was important!
pork pie girl - on 12 May 2013
In reply to maria85: welcome back maria

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