/ Wye Valley

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Tuborg on 06 May 2013
I'm going to a wedding in the Wye Valley in June and will have five days extra to climb.

I've never climbed in the area, or England for that matter, so was looking for recommendations on crags not to be missed. Ideally places which have a good range of grades from VS through to E3/4.


Cheers
pheotleyr - on 06 May 2013
In reply to Tuborg: Wye Valley itself is brilliant, especially Wintours Leap and Shorn Cliff.
davepotter2011 - on 06 May 2013
In reply to Tuborg:
Another vote for Shorn Cliff... (though it is a bit of a walk in.)
Jonny2vests - on 06 May 2013
In reply to Tuborg:

Shorn cliff is better for easier stuff, GO wall at Wintours is much more worthwhile for E1 and above though.
Mark Morris - on 06 May 2013
In reply to Tuborg: 5 days, weather permitting, will give you time to get the best out of the Wye Valley. They were my local cliffs that I started my climbing on. In the range you are looking at you will have brilliant days climbing. Stick to the starred routes, Shorn and Wintours are the best, have fun.
Tuborg on 07 May 2013
In reply to Mark Morris:

Sounds great. Thanks. Any recommendations on friendly and cheapish hostels, B&Bs or campsites.
grumpyoldjanner - on 07 May 2013
In reply to Tuborg:

Wynd Cliff (or Wyndcliffe)is well worth a visit as well. It's split into two sections known as the right hand and left hand crag. Right hand crag tends to be in better condition (LH suffers from loose rock) and has two 3* VSs Cadillac and Questor which are both superb.
Happy Haggis - on 07 May 2013
In reply to Tuborg: Whitt (VS) at Symonds Yat is also a superb climb. Beeches Farm campsite is good and you can walk from the campsite to Shorn Cliff, which is a bonus.
flaneur - on 07 May 2013
In reply to Tuborg:

The Wye valley has some pleasant climbing and beautiful, and very British, scenery. It's of interest to more than just locals but you'd drive past it without stopping if it was in Norway.

You could see a lot more of the UK in your 5 free days. You could spend a day at Wintour's since you're in the area but then head for Pembroke (2 hours drive) or north Wales (3-4 hours) depending on the weather. Both these are well worth the attention of traveling Vikings! http://www.pembrokestory.org.uk/darkages.html
thomb - on 07 May 2013
In reply to Tuborg:

While the Wye Valley is great for a few days limestone trad climbing, if you're around for 5 days and haven't climbed here before, you have time to go explore a couple of the UK's best crags.

Maybe consider a short tour of the granite and limestone in Devon and Cornwall (e.g. Bosigren, Haytor, Sharpnose), or head north for welsh classics (Llanberis, Tremadog) or The Peak District. Another option is to spend a day or two in the Wye Valley then head over to Pembroke for some adventurous sea-cliff climbing!

Just my 2p.

johncoxmysteriously - on 07 May 2013
In reply to Tuborg:

Agreed. Invest two hours driving to Pembroke (or frankly more or less any well-known climbing area in the UK). The Wye Valley is nice enough but not a destination venue.

jcm
UKActivityBreaks.com - on 09 May 2013
In reply to Tuborg:
Agree Wye Valley have options but you are well positioned to get to alternative climbing locations. Search for climbing on this site and you'll find a few options http://www.ukactivitybreaks.com/ - the team can do the leg work and ask around for you as well.

Have fun
Ian Parsons - on 09 May 2013
In reply to Tuborg:

Worth remembering if you consider visiting Pembroke that some of the most popular areas - ie those on military firing ranges - might well be closed during the week if firing is in process.
Tuborg on 09 May 2013
In reply to flaneur:

I'm no travelling viking! I'm originally from London. Just didn't start climbing properly until I moved to Sweden five years ago. Still, maybe its a better idea to get in the car and get to north Wales. Was thinking of doing a longer trip there sometime though.

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